How to connect sewer pipes: plastic, steel, polypropylene


When repairing or installing sewer and water supply networks, the master often faces the question - how to connect pipes without welding and threading in a convenient way? Such situations may arise when carrying out manipulations in hard-to-reach places in the pipeline, when working with a welding machine is not possible. Also, the need to fasten metal pipes without welding or threading arises if the existing sewer system is in rather dilapidated, but working condition. Welding or threading on an old pipe in this case is undesirable, as it can cause even greater damage to communications.

Types of welds and joints

Electric welding is a method of joining metal fragments (profiles, pipes) by local melting of the metal. It is heated to the desired temperature using an electric arc using a welding machine that converts alternating current into direct current.

An electric arc is formed on an electrode - a metal rod. In the area of ​​the arc, a special environment is created that simultaneously melts the metal, but does not allow it to come into contact with air and oxidize.

Using welding, you can create a tight connection between two pipes, in which there is a risk of leakage, as with flange or coupling joints. To do this, it is important to make a high-quality weld by fusing the metal on the edges of both pipe sections. Welders use several basic types of seams, depending on the type of metal, the thickness of the elements being welded and their relative position:

  • butt welding is the most common method of welding pipes, in which they are located opposite each other, connected by sections;
  • in a T-bar - two pipe fragments are arranged perpendicularly in the shape of the letter T;
  • angular - parts are located relative to each other at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees;
  • overlap - one piece of pipe is flared and put on top of another, then welded.

Important! Steel pipes for heating and water supply systems are butt welded or corner welded. This gives the most reliable and durable seam.

In addition to the connection method, there are also several types of welds that are used in certain cases:

  • horizontal seam - performed when the pipes are positioned vertically (most often used in the installation of water supply and heating systems);
  • vertical - the connection is made with a mutual horizontal arrangement of pipes, in which the master makes vertical movements with the electrode (from bottom to top, top to bottom, etc.);
  • ceiling - during welding, the electrode is located under the part being welded, the welder has to hold his hand above his head;
  • bottom - in contrast to the ceiling, the electrode is located on top of the parts being connected.

The most convenient way of welding is using a bottom seam, in which the specialist clearly sees the working field and can rotate pipe fragments for faster and more productive work.

Ceiling joints are usually not used when constructing an engineering system from scratch, because this method is quite inconvenient (the welder gets tired quickly, has difficulty seeing the working field, and drops of molten metal may fall on him). A ceiling weld is usually used for repairs when a worn or deformed piece of pipe is cut out and a new one is welded in its place.

Heating

They installed biometallic radiators for me. So far they haven’t really given me any heat, but the house is rrrrrr. how cold it is. I consulted with you here. I installed steel pipes, not polypropylene. They also installed a bypass. But here’s a question for you. It seems like the plumber did everything well, he connected the system to check if there were any leaks. Basically, I had to do welding several times at the junction of the bypass to the horizontal pipes. And there such welding is almost as big as a fist and still flows. What is the reason? I also asked, but the water in the pipes will flow as much as possible, that is, is the pipe not narrowed with such welding? I was reassured. Here The other day I need to turn it off again and welding again. Well, I think maybe it’s doing something wrong, but I don’t understand this and am silent.

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The whole reason is in the hands of the plumber. The slag from welding prevents him from welding well. Usually they are welded using gas welding, but it is a hundred pounds using electric welding. Hence the size of a fist.

At a construction site, for example, few people cook with gas, due to the cheapness of the electrode; maybe the plumber is just a mediocre cook?

Yes, it looks like he's not a very good welder. I would advise him to cut out this unit with a weld seam the size of a fist, and carefully weld a new one. There is a danger of endless welding of fistulas in this “fist”.

Good afternoon Alexander! It turns out that when you connect heating under pressure, there is a high danger of these fistulas or something. Now the pressure in the pipes without heating is low. I also thought, maybe paint several layers of paint, and if you cut it out, you’ll probably need a new pipe again. I’m with I’ll contact you on Monday, then the work will be half welded again and I’ll tell him what you said. But I’m very afraid that the pipes will burst, that is, the seams won’t hold up.

Of course yes, but I would advise using threaded connections if the person doesn’t know how to cook :-)

Elena, hello. No “maybe paint in two layers” - definitely, cut and digest. It is advisable to invite another welder. In this matter, savings are inappropriate. Repairs at your place, and probably at your neighbors’, will cost much more. Good luck.

an electrode in his mouth and two fingers in a socket.

We make with modern materials and don’t mess with welding. It’s one thing to weld new iron and quite another to weld it to rotten pipes. The problems with polypropylene pipes are certainly no more than with metal ones. Experience 13 years.

From the riser, the horizontal and bypass pipes are completely new, and the old ones were cut off by a plumber. Only I myself wanted such pipes, and not polypropylene. Sergey, you advised me, remember. I made steel pipes based on your advice.

Lenochka, you are confusing me with someone, we discussed the diagram of your system and how to clean it. After reviewing our correspondence, I did not find any advice to do it in metal. And in general, I’m not saying that metal is bad, it’s just that we make it in reinforced polypropylene. We haven’t been involved with welding for a long time for reasons like yours. Perhaps you didn’t have the opportunity to make it with polypropylene. The plumber knows best on the spot. Please do not confuse me with other Sergei.

I wonder if it's leaking or getting wet? It would be nice to show it with a photo. Electric welding will not break through phlegm. If you leave it, it may *take a long time*. But another welder is better, and you need good electrodes. I cook with Ano-36 electrodes. There are no problems. Very rarely it can freeze and it can be cooked under pressure. And the pipes are good. And it's good.

It’s leaking, yes, I paid this welder 14,000 thousand for such work, there is not even a contract, but if he has a conscience, if something happens, he must correct the defect. I will ask on Monday what electrodes he used to weld. I have now taken photos and will send them as a file.

This is what a welder did for me, where it is leaking.

Elena, if after the crossbars you put American joints or crossbars, then all the welding is visible and can be easily welded. Secondly, the jumper should be placed closer to the radiator and not closer to the riser. Third, you need to put a wet rag on the floor and then the parquet and linoleum will not be so dirty from welding. Fourth, it won’t break through 100%, it’s just not pretty. Fifth, I ask for 5000 rubles for such work. Usually they don’t pay money until it is verified that the work is good. It is very rare that something cannot be verified. They can't give me water. Today I changed the heating riser and left without checking. Sixth, such welding can be welded under pressure with a high current. If it doesn’t digest, there won’t be a flood. Keep calm.

Peter, thank you for your answer. Let's hope that there will be no worries about this during the heating season. Does it really matter that the jumper should be closer to the radiator? If this has already been done, then I'll see how it heats this winter. If it's bad, then next I’ll have to consult with you again on this forum for a year. I can see for myself what’s not done beautifully. But warmth is more important to me. I’m so tired of freezing in my Khrushchev apartment.

Yes, if they turn on the heating, everything will quickly dry out and tighten. But you can overcook it, of course.

Peter, what is “wonder”? If you overcook it, does that mean you have to cut it off first?

Of course, there is no danger of breaking through this seal. It will just be difficult for a welder to weld the place where it gets wet - where the scale sits is unknown, and the cycle “turning off the riser - boiling - starting the riser” can last forever. This overlap in the form of a massive seam was the result of a welder’s mistake in handling the tape measure: judging by the photo, in the upper horizontal pipe he burned a hole for the jumper a couple of centimeters closer to the cross than on the lower pipe. Then I burned another hole nearby and welded up the unnecessary one. What happened is not dangerous, and there is even significant hope that when the heating starts in October, the drops will boil by themselves. Reworking the work is possible only by your strong-willed decision, and the strict position “I will pay when there is no leakage.” Although this is not really necessary.

It will tighten - when there is heating circulation, the dirt from the inside will clog the leak or it will be sweating. This always happens. I started cooking like this 10-13 years ago. So Alexander Gordienko also confirmed that he would not break through. Keep calm.

Of course, purely from a human perspective, all that remains is to somehow console. And if, in fairness, the money was paid, then the work should have been done. Not with such a joint, not with a leak. And when they pay money and receive that they have to wait until the joint boils, in order to hide the terrible appearance, pour more paint and hang opaque curtains. Well, this is some kind of nonsense. Perhaps with such qualifications he also melted the inner diameter, not quite of course. But I think if you cut the joint, there will be good snot inside. To be fair, this city should be forced to be remade. Don’t reassure, like (oh well, live with it, others have had it worse, and nothing works). It shouldn't be like this, it's disgusting. And you can’t justify such things, it’s doubly disgusting. The best advice is not to put up with it, but to fight and get the result for which you PAID! Tomorrow, such a specialist will shit in ten more apartments, and he will get away with everything. Because a dozen people will say, okay, no big deal.

Thank you Igor for comforting me. I only posted some of the photos. In addition to these two welds, there is also something on the jumper when welding the “Duck” pipe to the radiator. There are generally 2 seams on the “duck” on horizontal pipes. I noticed after welding the radiators are attached crookedly .She told me to redo the work. I had to cut the pipes, and again make the second seam by welding. In short, the whole pipe was in seams. I agree that it was not done professionally. It just turned out to be a lesson for me that I couldn’t immediately find a professional in this matter. The job was done, and time will tell what the result will be.

rip off this welder's hands. It cannot be welded because when welding there is water in the pipe, it instantly boils in this place and pushes out the metal, cools it and prevents it from being welded. All the resulting clubroot must be cut off. drain the water from the pipe. and brew normally. You will only save yourself with paint if there is never any pressure in the pipe, so this option is impossible.

Why is it not possible? You need to know how. If you can’t cover all the water, it leaks a little. So what should I do? You can either brew it or simmer it. I want to ask you, did everything work out 100% well for you? Didn't anyone cut off their hands? 10-13 years ago my welding was bad. Right now it's 99% great. Sometimes it freezes, then I brew it under pressure.

Some tips for performing quality welding

The quality of welding depends on proper preparation for welding work, the choice of electrodes and process technology, which is somewhat different when connecting joints.

Selecting suitable electrodes

The quality of the weld largely depends on which electrode is used for welding. It is a thin metal rod with a special coating. The inner part of the electrode serves as a conductor to create an electric arc, and the coating ensures its stability and also participates in creating the weld.

Based on the type of core, electrodes are divided into consumable and non-consumable . In the first case, the product is based on steel wire, in the second - a tungsten, carbon or graphite rod.

Based on the type of protective coating, electrodes are divided into:

  • cellulose - marked “C” - used for labor-intensive and complex welding work with large-diameter pipes, on long technological lines;
  • rutile acid - “RA” - the most used type of electrode for welding water supply and heating utilities;
  • rutile - “RR” - can also be used for welding water supply and heating pipes, they are distinguished by greater thickness and better quality of the weld;
  • rutile-cellulose - “RC” - provide a more durable seam when using the vertical joining method;
  • universal - “B” - suitable for welding pipes of various diameters and thicknesses, in a wide temperature range.

Another classification of welding electrodes is the diameter of the rod. The strength of the electric arc, which can cope with pipes of a certain thickness, depends on it:

  • 3 mm – electrodes are suitable for welding pipes up to 5 mm thick;
  • 4 mm – electrodes allow you to weld up to 10 mm thick, as well as make multilayer metal seams.

Attention! In addition to the thickness and material of the electrode, for high-quality welding it is also necessary to take into account the current strength, which depends on the method of connecting the pipes. For example, for a simple butt joint an arc of 80 to 110 amps is suitable, but for lap welding you will need to switch the machine to 120 amps.

Single and double clamp and thread connections


A fitting with a one-way clamp is like half of the coupling described above. On one side the pipeline is connected, the other side is a branch with internal or external thread.

Where a tap or outlet can be screwed in. It is, in fact, a tee. The double clamp connection can be used to quickly install a perpendicular pipe bend without welding.

For the installation and repair of heating and hot water supply pipes, the company produces a full set of fittings equipped with elastic gaskets capable of operating at a temperature of +95°C.

All these fittings, like those described above, are universal and can be used to connect polypropylene pipes.

Gebo's range of fittings includes connecting devices for large-diameter main pipelines intended for underground installation. The connection of pipes in such pipelines can also be carried out without welding and threading.

How to make the right seam

To make a high-quality seam, proper preparation of the pipe for welding is necessary. The quality of the pipe edge is decisive for a durable and airtight seam.

For example, for butt welding, the pipe cut must be strictly at a right angle. Before starting work, it is thoroughly cleaned with sandpaper 1 cm from the edge of the pipe, then oil, paint, metal dust are removed and degreased.

The welding technique depends on the cross-sectional shape, thickness and diameter of the pipes being connected. Simple round pipes for heating systems are welded using a simple continuous seam, moving the electrode along the surface of the pipe until the two pieces are completely welded.

For relatively thin pipes (up to 6 mm), a two-layer weld is suitable; for thicknesses from 6 to 12 mm, three-layer welding is used. Massive and thick pipeline fragments are connected with four or more seams.

The seams are performed alternately, one after the other. The next seam can be started only after the previous one has cooled. To achieve a high-quality and beautiful seam, you need to periodically remove the slag formed at the welding site by lightly tapping the pipe with a hammer.

Features of welding rotary and non-rotary joints

To make a high-quality rotary joint (where two pipes are connected at a certain angle), you can use a special rotator, which fixes and provides the most convenient access for the welder.

In the absence of a device, you will have to rotate the pipe manually, using an electrode to treat a section of the pipe cross-section of 60-110 degrees.

When making a rotary joint manually, the diameter of the pipes is first welded 2/4 from the outside in two layers, then unfolded and the joint is welded using all three or four layers.

A fixed joint is much easier to make: combine two pipe fragments and make several welding points (for example, in the form of an imaginary cross, or only on two opposite sides). Cook the pipe, starting from the bottom point, moving the electrode to the top section.

How gluing is carried out

The connection of galvanized or plastic pipes must be very strong and reliable. To fasten two tubes together, you can use the gluing method. To glue two parts together, you need to carry out the work comprehensively and step by step.

For this you need:

  • Apply the adhesive composition with a brush to the inside of the coupling, and then to the tube;
  • Mount the coupling to the mark indicating the insertion depth;
  • Leave the glue until completely dry.

While the glue hardens, it is forbidden to move or move the elements. It is important to ensure complete peace of mind. The pipeline can be used no earlier than one day after the work is completed. It is worth noting that the reliability and strength of such a connection largely depends on the correct execution of the work.


All materials for gluing pipes are sold in a hardware store

Among the main mistakes are:

  • Uneven application of glue;
  • Long interval between connecting parts;
  • Drying of the adhesive composition ahead of time.

Such a connection can be ideal even for joining square products. In addition, other joining methods can also be used, which may be dismountable or non-dismountable.

Welding safety rules

The electrical welding process poses three potential hazards:

  • receiving electrical injury from contact with live wires or electrodes;
  • skin burn from molten metal;
  • Arc flash burn of the retina.

To avoid undesirable consequences, you should take care of electrical insulation: use special rubber mats and galoshes, ground the welding machine, and insulate the conductors.

It is important to use personal protective equipment - special gloves, as well as a protective helmet or face shield.

Electric welding of water pipes is one of the most reliable ways to achieve the necessary tightness of the circulation circuit. The seams obtained using this technology are resistant to pressure, mechanical loads, and corrosion.

Unfortunately, even if all requirements are met, pipes may leak during operation. This occurs due to external loads for which metal structures are simply not designed, as well as due to natural aging and wear of the material.

In such a situation, you have to act immediately and eliminate leaks in an already used pipeline.

Using clamps

Reliable and practical hose clamps are widely in demand in a wide variety of industries. Due to their ease of installation, they are used for industrial and domestic purposes. When joining pipes, you can first plug them on both sides to ensure greater strength and reliability.


A clamp for connecting pipes is relatively inexpensive

Experts use a variety of types of clamps:

  • For hoses;
  • With hinge bolt;
  • Spring.

A metal clamp can be used in all types of fastening. For fixation, such products are made of galvanized or stainless steel, and bolts or screws are used to tighten them. If they are used for a plastic pipeline, rubberized seals can be used to avoid damage to the shells and reduce vibration and noise.

In case of increased mechanical loads, it is necessary to use power clamps. Their design allows them to withstand very large loads along the clamp while maintaining integrity. Plastic clamps are used for fastening water and sewer pipes. Their design is similar to metal ones, but they are much less expensive.

Pipe connections can be made in a variety of ways, it all depends on your own preferences.

Need for work

Welding a pipe with water may be required in the following cases:

  1. Leaks formed as a result of exceeding standard loads or poor-quality installation work. Disconnection in such cases is not welcome, especially if we are talking about main pipelines supplying water to large residential areas.
  2. The need for a tie-in. Draining liquid from the entire system involves significant temporary losses, so the matter is often limited to turning off the circulation pumps. This measure helps reduce pressure in the circuit, making work easier.

Main difficulties

Welding pipes under pressure is not an easy task, and not every specialist will undertake it.

Problems are associated with the following phenomena:

  • the pressure of the liquid does not allow the required temperature of the weld pool to be reached, it is extremely difficult to achieve the required coefficient of adhesion of the deposited metal to the base;
  • When water comes into contact with hot material, large volumes of steam are produced. The welder has to work in conditions of limited visibility, the mask fogs up, he has to constantly wipe it, get distracted, waste time;
  • It is very difficult to work when the pipes are located at a height, under the ceiling. Water can drip onto the welder, and it can be awkward to hold heavy equipment.

Which pipe bends are the most effective and reliable - types and features

Whatever the pipeline is, it will require repair after some time. It is quite difficult to replace a specific part in complete systems, so most often threaded connections are made using couplings and bends. Let's find out what a pipeline surge is and what couplings are, and also consider the technology of pipeline installation using these parts.

What is a coupling

A coupling is a connecting part; its internal diameter and the outer diameter of the pipes are of equal size. The fitting has internal threads on both sides. Compared to the coupling, the thread length on the pipes should be 2 times shorter. Then the pipes on both sides will be screwed into the fitting at the same distance.

To independently connect pipes using a coupling without errors, you should study its specifics. If you carefully examine the threads on the pipe, you will notice that the last turns have the smallest depth in the place where the thread transitions into a flat surface. Such turns are called “escape”. It jams the clutch. It turns out that when screwed onto the run, the part stops. Then you can screw in the pipe from the other side.

If the thread of the pipe is longer than that of the coupling, then the run-out will be outside its limits. As a result, jamming will not occur, and water will flow through the threads. In other words, there will be a leak. For this reason, several turns should remain between the pipes after they are connected. When performing thread cutting yourself, it is worth remembering this rule.

The coupling method of connecting pipes is dismountable, but regardless of this, it is impossible to replace a specific section of the pipeline without disassembling the entire system. To make it easier to solve this problem, downpipes are installed in some areas of the system. We’ll find out what pipe benders are in the next section.

What are surges

A squeegee is a connecting piece that looks like a short tube with a short thread at one end and a longer thread at the other. The locknut and the entire coupling are put on here.

It is recommended to take pipe bends with a sufficiently long thread, otherwise all the parts will not fit in the threaded area, and then you will need to increase the distance between the connected ends of the pipe and the bend, as a result, the strength of the connection will be reduced.

This connecting part is most often used when laying water pipes. Therefore, it must be treated with anti-corrosion agents.

The most common types of metal pipe fittings are:

  • Nickel plated. These bends give the pipeline a more beautiful appearance, therefore they are most often used in residential premises. However, they are more expensive compared to conventional steel parts.
  • Galvanized. They are used in open areas where the pipeline will be affected by atmospheric phenomena.
  • Steel. Used for pipelines laid in the ground. To prevent the formation of corrosion, they are painted.

Gosstandart defines the following dimensions of pipe fittings:

  • 150×50×65×17 mm, where the first value is the length, the second is the internal diameter, the third is the length of one threaded section, the last is the length of another threaded section;
  • 130×32×55×13 mm;
  • 110×15×40×9 mm.

Products with other intermediate sizes are also manufactured. Fittings should be selected taking into account the diameter of the pipeline being installed.

Pipeline assembly technology

To assemble the pipeline, you must perform the following sequence of actions:

  • First, screw the coupling onto the pipe.
  • Then the side with the short thread is screwed into the coupling (sometimes it is connected directly). The parts should be screwed all the way, then the connection will be reliable.
  • A locknut is screwed onto the long side of the drive.
  • Next comes the connecting fitting.
  • Then the end of the drive is applied to the pipe and the coupling is screwed together so that it goes onto the pipe. The connection will be easier to complete if the axes of the parts coincide as much as possible.
  • The fitting must then be secured with a locknut. To do this, it should be screwed to the coupling so that there is a distance of 2-3 cm between the parts. This space must be filled with strands of flax. They should be wound in the direction of rotation of the nut. Then the locknut should be tightened until it stops. This must be done to seal the connection and prevent water leakage through it. You should use a wrench to tighten the locknut because its edges are narrow.

To make pipe joints airtight, it is necessary to wrap fum tape around the threads.

Recommendations for dismantling

To prevent rust from occurring on gas and water pipes, they must be painted. The service life of the pipeline after painting will increase, however, after this, dismantling the threaded connections becomes quite difficult. For this reason, you should not paint the threaded area several times; one coat is enough. To make disassembly easier, these areas should be coated with grease.

If the connections on the section of the pipeline to be disassembled have been painted several times, then it is necessary to first remove the paint layer. To do this, you can use a blowtorch or a knife.

The material from which the fitting is made affects the complexity of dismantling. For example, ductile cast iron parts screwed onto steel pipes will not be difficult to unscrew with a wrench. Such parts practically do not “grow together” with the pipes. But it is impossible to unscrew a steel coupling with a wrench.

The key should not be reinforced with a lever, otherwise it will be damaged and the part will remain unscrewed.

Heating with a gas torch or blowtorch makes disassembling the pipeline easier. The heating process may take 15 – 55 minutes. The time depends on the diameter of the pipeline. The pipe must be turned periodically so that the connection is heated on all sides.

Conclusion

So, we found out that this is a pipeline bend and a coupling. Using these parts, a collapsible pipeline connection is created. The use of a sweep makes it possible to dismantle a certain section of the system without the need to disassemble the entire pipeline in the event of repair work.

Selecting a tool and setting up equipment

Despite all the difficulties, working with pipes under pressure is quite feasible. The main thing is to correctly adjust the operating modes and select the appropriate tools.

For example, the best electrodes for welding water pipes are as follows:

SSSI 13/55. Universal elements that allow you to repair pipes made of steel, regardless of the degree of alloying and carbon content.

The formed seam is characterized by an optimal combination of strength, ductility and toughness, and can withstand high operating loads without the formation of repeated fistulas and destruction. Beginners may be afraid that the electrode sticks to the metal during operation, but it is very easy to get rid of this; you just need to lengthen the arc.

In just a few minutes of work you can develop a good skill and feel all the subtleties and advantages of the electrode.

MGM-50K. New development optimized for work with pipes under pressure.

The main feature is that a gas bubble is formed around the arc, displacing steam or liquids, which improves the conditions in which welding is carried out, facilitates the task, and allows one to achieve the desired result.

The electrode is suitable for working with pipes made of both high carbon steel and low alloy grades. It is allowed to work on contaminated surfaces and metal that already has signs of corrosion damage.

Watch an interesting video about which electrodes are best to use for welding pipes:

It is also useful to adhere to the following recommendations:

  1. Increasing the current will help achieve the required arc stability; the likelihood of electrode sticking will be reduced due to the fact that the deposited metal quickly cools and sticks to the base.
  2. The electrodes are pre-heated, and the work area is heated with a gas burner. The flame evaporates the liquid leaking from the pipe, increasing the level of adhesion of the deposited metal to the base.
  3. When choosing voltage, you should focus on your own preferences.

Beginners should know that:

  • alternating current forms a more stable arc, making it possible to work even under an impressive layer of water, but the final quality of the seam is not too high;
  • direct current, in turn, helps to achieve maximum penetration depth of the deposited metal and weld strength, but direct work in an environment of high humidity is more difficult.

Useful video for beginners on how to weld a pipe with water when repairing a heating main:

Joining pipes using clamps, flanges and clips

The simplest devices for quick repair and joining of pipes are usually bolted and consist of two parts, which are put on the pipe and fixed in the right place using a rubber seal. An exception is the flange connection of gas pipes, which is bolted together through a rubber gasket in order to replace a section of the line.

Replacing metal and plastic sewer drains during repairs is also based on replacing damaged areas with the installation of rubber seals without tightening because there is no pressure in them. The main thing here is to prevent leaks, water flowing down by gravity and the appearance of odors.

A quick tap-in or repair using clamps and clips is not absolutely reliable, especially in systems with high pressure and temperature of the medium, and is a temporary measure. Clamps of various designs are one-piece or detachable pipe-like structures and are tightened through gaskets at breakout points using bolts.

They are designed to accommodate all pipe diameters up to 1520 mm and are available in single, double or triple. They are distinguished by quick installation on the damaged area, but require careful and consistent tightening of the bolts without distortions and deformation of the seals.

Connection using repair clips is more reliable because they are a cast body made of painted metal, consisting of two detachable parts. This method also uses a thick-walled rubber gasket, and both parts are connected with bolts.

Installation of clamps and clips is carried out in the following sequence:

  • the emergency area must be thoroughly cleaned of metal shavings, irregularities, rust and other contaminants;
  • if a clamp is applied, a rubber pad is wound around the damaged area and sealed;
  • if a repair clip is installed, then a rubber seal is put on, the cut of which is lubricated with a silicone sealing compound;
  • then the bolts are tightened sequentially and without distortion, in the case of a crosswise holder.

Repair clips allow for cross-shaped or T-shaped insertion, and are also used when connecting two sections of the pipeline.

During installation, it is important to avoid distortion of the seal, not to overtighten the bolts, and after supplying fluid under pressure, re-check the effectiveness of the repair and the tightness of the connection.

Fistula removal

How to weld a water pipe using electric welding with the maximum degree of reliability? The exact instructions depend on the nature of the damage. Let's start with how to eliminate a fistula in a water pipe, that is, a round hole from which liquid oozes.

In this case, you need to take a position that allows you to clearly observe the boundaries of the damage, and the electrodes are held perpendicular to the base to minimize the volume of water falling on them. Work is carried out from top to bottom until the hole is completely hidden by the deposited metal.

The procedure is as follows:

  • metal is fused to the upper part of the fistula;
  • 2 blows are made with a hammer immediately after the arc goes out. This promotes compaction of the material and eliminates pore formation;
  • the cycle repeats from top to bottom;
  • if there is thinning of the walls along the edges of the hole, they are strengthened using the method described above;
  • when steam stops oozing out, the pipe wall becomes stronger. The current is set to a minimum to prevent through burning. The required volume of material is gradually deposited;
  • To increase strength, the formed seam is tapped.

This video shows in detail how to weld a fistula in a pipe (lower position):

Forming a cut-in

Welding under steam pressure can also be performed if it is necessary to install an auxiliary channel for its outlet.

The installation of the insert must be preceded by the installation of a ball valve. This will help not to shut off the system completely, but to stop the flow of steam or water to a separate section of it, which will simplify further work.

The process looks like this:

  • a pipe equipped with a ball valve and thread of the appropriate type is fitted to a certain section of the pipeline;
  • the applied part is scalded, while maintaining the original integrity of the pipeline;
  • the tap opens and a hole is drilled through it in the main pipe;
  • the drill is pulled out, the water supply is stopped by turning off the tap;
  • a squeegee equipped with a winding is installed, a new pipeline branch is closed;
  • the tap opens.

The pressure level in the system in this case can be any. During operation, the minimum current should be maintained to prevent damage to the main line.

When selecting the diameter of the drill, you need to keep in mind that the formed hole must be wide enough to ensure efficient operation of the new pipeline branch.

Watch a video about inserting a steel water pipe under pressure:

Repair and installation clip with outlet

This product differs from the previous one in the presence of an outlet with an internal thread on one of the cast iron holders.


The seal in this fitting also has the shape of a cut hose, but on the side opposite the cut there is a hole, which should be aligned with the outlet during installation.

This fitting makes it easy to make a branch from the pipeline; just drill a hole in its wall. Can be used when installing watering lines. Taps or water sprayers can be screwed directly into the threaded elbows.

Selection of electrodes

The first thing you will need to carry out welding work on heating pipes or other structures is electrodes. Not only the reliability of the resulting welds and the tightness of the system, but also the process of performing the work will depend on the quality of this consumable material.

An electrode is understood as a thin steel rod with a special coating, which allows for a stable arc during the electric welding of pipes, and is involved in the formation of the weld, and also prevents oxidation of the metal.

The classification of electrodes involves division according to the type of core and type of outer coating.

Depending on the type of core, there are the following electrodes:

  1. With a non-melting center . The material for such products is graphite, electrical coal or tungsten.
  2. With a melting center . In this case, the core is a wire, the thickness of which depends on the type of welding work.

As for the outer shell, the many electrodes that are found on the market should be divided into several groups.

So, the coverage could be:

  • Pulp (grade C) . These products are mainly used for welding work on large cross-section pipes. For example, for the installation of pipelines for transporting gas or water.
  • Rutile acid (RA) . Such electrodes are optimal for welding metal heating or water pipes. In this case, the welding seam is covered with a small layer of slag, which can be easily removed by tapping.
  • Rutile (RR) . This type of electrode makes it possible to obtain very neat welding seams, and the slag formed during the work process is very easily removed. Mostly such electrodes are used at corner joints or when welding the second or third layer.
  • Rutile cellulose (RC) . With such electrodes you can perform welding work in absolutely any plane. In particular, they are very actively used to create a long vertical seam.
  • Basic (B) . Such products can be called universal, because they are suitable for welding thick-walled pipes and parts that will be operated at subzero temperatures. This creates a plastic, high-quality seam that does not crack or deform over time.

Compression fittings for pipe systems


The technology for using crimp parts, which allows connecting metal pipes without welding or threading, has appeared relatively recently.
A pioneer in the production of fittings for pipe connections without threads and crimp welding was Gebo Armaturen GmbH, which received the first patent for this technology back in 1937.

Today the name of the company has become a household name; the fittings for crimping pipe connections are called “Gebo coupling”.

In the production of connecting fittings, Gebo Armaturen uses ductile cast iron. The company's product range includes fittings for various types of connections and branches.

Gebo fittings are designed to work with pipelines made of different materials. With their help you can connect plastic pipes, tubular products made of steel, copper, aluminum. There is no need to use welding or threading.

Types of welds and pipe connections

There can be several ways to weld pipes using electric welding:

  • placing the parts end-to-end - in this case the pipe sections are exactly opposite each other;
  • T-joint - this pipe welding technology implies that two pieces of pipe are placed perpendicularly, in the shape of the letter “T”;
  • overlap fastening - in this option, one of the pieces of pipe is flared so that it can be put on another;
  • corner connection - that is, two parts are placed at an angle of 45° or 90°.

When welding pipes using electric welding, the following seams can be made:

  • horizontal - in this case, the pipes to be welded are located vertically;
  • vertical – these are seams on a vertical section of the pipe;
  • ceiling - in this case, the electrode is placed at the bottom of the part, above the worker’s head;
  • lower - respectively, seams, for which you need to bend down.

Please note that when working with steel pipes, the connection must be end-to-end, with mandatory welding of the joint to the thickness of the wall of the product. The optimal solution in this case would be to use a lower rotation seam.

There are several more recommendations on how to weld pipes using electric welding:

  1. When carrying out welding work, you should hold the electrode at an angle of 45° or slightly less, then the molten metal will get inside the pipe being welded in much less quantity.
  2. If you are making a T-joint or butt joint, you will need 2-3 mm electrodes. In this case, the optimal current for reliable sealing of the system is in the range of 80-110 amperes.
  3. To reliably weld an overlap joint, the current must be increased to 120 amperes, and similar electrodes can be used.
  1. The optimal height of the weld should be 3 mm above the surface of the pipe. Only after achieving it can the work be considered completed.

Separately, it is worth dwelling on profiled products. Welding of such pipes must be done pointwise. This means that they first grab two points on opposite sides of the profile, then move to two other points, and so on until the entire pipe has warmed up. After this, they begin to make a continuous weld around the perimeter of the pipe.

Double-sided crimp connections

A universal product with which you can connect steel pipes, as well as PVC pipes. It is this fitting that is most often called the Gebo coupling. It can be used to connect two pipes end to end.

To make a connection, the pipes must be cut evenly and cleaned of dirt and rust, the ends of the pipes must be well processed. A clamping nut is put on the end of the pipe, then a clamping washer, which is a collet - a conical bushing with a cut on one side.

The inner side of the bushing is covered with circular notches. A sealing gasket is inserted into the coupling seat, designed to stop the end of the pipe. After this, the clamping nut is tightened.

Moving along the thread, the hole in the nut presses the conical part of the split sleeve against the pipe. At the same time, the internal notches of the sleeve cut into the surface of the pipe, tightly fixing it and pressing it against the end gasket. This way ensures the necessary tightness and mechanical strength of the connection.

A similar procedure is performed on the second side of the coupling, where the end of the second pipe is inserted.

Preliminary work with parts

Before welding a round pipe, it needs to be prepared for work, that is, pre-process the joints and clarify all the details. To do this, the pipes are first diagnosed for compliance with a number of technical characteristics required for the installed system, in particular, water supply (read: “Which welding of water pipes is better - types and features of welding”).

According to the instructions, the following conditions must be met:

  • Geometric dimensions.
  • Availability of a quality certificate, in particular if it is a pipeline for drinking water.
  • Perfectly round shape of pipes - no defects in the ends in the form of a flattened or oval section are allowed.
  • The same thickness of pipe walls along their entire length.
  • The chemical composition of products must comply with Russian GOSTs for certain systems. This information is obtained from technical documentation or laboratory tests.

Next, you can begin to actually prepare the pipes for joining and welding.

The preparation process includes the following stages:

  • check the evenness of the cut at the end of the pipe - it should be 90º;
  • the end and an area 10 mm from it must be thoroughly cleaned until a metallic shine appears;
  • all traces of oils, rust, paints should be removed and the surface at the end of the pipe should be degreased.

The last thing to take care of is the correct end configuration. The opening angle of the edge should be 65º, and the dullness should be 2 mm. Additional processing will allow you to achieve the required parameters.

This work can be done with a chamfer, trimmer or grinder. Professionals who work with large diameter pipes use milling machines or gas and plasma cutters.

Prices for welding heating water supply

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#21 Georgiy 11

Please don't be rude to me, otherwise I'll press the complaint button

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#22 morgmail

I do this when I don’t cut or adjust anything, that is, everything is done by the customer’s mechanics. I'm just cooking.

Here, for example, it’s just stupid to hang 50 radiators and connect them, it costs a thousand for each, at least that’s what our mechanics charge, a thousand to hang and connect a radiator to a “flexible” (corrugated, metapol) liner. There are a couple more nuances: winter means there’s not much work, it’s not the time to gouge prices, and the customer is a frequent one, although he’s getting greedier every year.

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#23 Dmitry N

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    #24 Isperyanc

    Dmitry N, and how much does 1cm cost you - is it always the same or different, for “up to 5 mm inclusive”?

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    #25 Shurpet

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    Colleagues, indicate at least some amount so that we can understand the direction in advance.

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    Subtleties of electric welding

    If round pipes are welded, the seam on them must be continuous. This means that once work has begun, it cannot be interrupted until a continuous weld has been formed. When working with rotating and non-rotating joints, electric welding of heating pipes should be performed in several layers. Their number will depend on the thickness of the pipe walls.

    The dependence of the number of layers on the wall parameters is expressed in the following quantities:

    • 2 layers of welding seam are performed on pipes with a wall thickness of up to 6 mm;
    • if the walls vary between 6-12 mm in thickness, 3 layers will be required;
    • all other products, the wall thickness of which is even greater, require the application of 4 layers of seam.

    It is worth noting that each subsequent welding layer can be applied only after the previous one has completely cooled. All resulting slag must be removed before application. Read also: “How to properly weld pipes using electric welding – theory and practice from a master.”

    In addition, it is worth considering a number of important features:

    1. What polarity and current should be used (constant or alternating) will depend on the wall thickness of the pipes, their material and the shell of the electrodes. All information must be indicated in the instructions for the electrodes.
    2. The thickness of the electrode rods affects the current required for welding. You can estimate this indicator by multiplying the thickness of the rod by 30 or 40. This way you can calculate the current strength in amperes and set it on the welding equipment.
    3. The speed of work execution has no regulated value. You just need to make sure that the arc doesn’t stay at one point for too long, otherwise the edge will burn out and you’ll have to start all over again.

    To make your work easier, before starting to weld gas pipes using electric welding, you can assemble the joints.

    How to weld pipes using electric welding correctly - a step-by-step guide

    In the process of housekeeping, there are often cases when it is necessary to build some kind of structure from ordinary pipes or profiles. Often, lightweight and easy-to-install plastic pipes, as well as steel products with threaded fasteners, are used for these purposes. However, in this article we will look at how to properly weld a pipe for heating or other necessary systems in your home, because the options mentioned above are not always acceptable and practical.

    Assembling connections

    This process should be performed in the following sequence:

    1. The pipes should be fixed in a vice or other device, connecting them end-to-end. Next, you need to grab the connection point using an electrode in 2-3 places. If these are only 2 points, then make them on opposite sides of the circle.
    2. In the case where only one connection point is made, the final welding of the joint must begin from the opposite side.
    3. Please note that the electrode thickness for pipes with a wall thickness within 3 mm should be no more than 2.5 mm.

    And some more useful information regarding the welding technique.

    If you are working with pipes whose wall thickness exceeds 4 mm, then their connection is made using two seams - a root seam, running through the entire thickness of the steel, and a roll seam, which is a roller 3 mm high.

    When making vertical seams on pipes with a cross-section of 30-80 mm, welding is carried out in two steps - first a seam is made at ¾ of the length, and then everything else.

    When you make a horizontal seam in several layers, in each subsequent approach the electrode should move in the opposite direction.

    The end (locking) points of a seam made in several layers must be placed in different places.

    Installation with threaded connection

    How to connect iron pipes without welding will be discussed further, but in this article you can learn how to properly weld galvanized pipe products. To make docking, this method is very common.

    The threaded connection can be located in places on the highway where conditions allow for constant monitoring of the joint. At the same time, it should be possible to carry out repair work if necessary.

    Most often, threads are rolled using special equipment, but such work can be done independently.

    It is performed in the following sequence:

    • Cut off a piece of the workpiece, which provides the required allowance for the threaded part.

    • The pipe is secured to the die holder. A piece of metal workpiece is secured in a vice so that it does not rotate.

    • The die must be carefully attached to the end of the metal pipe. In this case, it is important not to make even a slight distortion, otherwise the thread will come out crooked and it will not be possible to connect the sections.
    • For ease of operation, it is recommended to lubricate the workpieces with machine oil.
    • When the die stops turning, it is recommended to perform one rotation in the opposite direction. This will remove the cut chips, which become an obstacle to moving forward.
    • In a section that runs close to the wall, it is not always possible to make a full turn when cutting threads. In such situations, it is recommended to use a die holder with a ratcheting mechanism.
    • To make a threaded connection reliable, you need to use a seal. For these purposes, plumbing winding will be used.
    • Before tightening a threaded joint, it is worth checking the products for the presence of burrs and remaining chips. And the twisting itself must be done with a certain force.

    Working with rotary and non-rotary joints

    The technique of welding pipes of different diameters with rotating and non-rotating joints requires special mention (read also: “How to weld non-rotating pipe joints - a step-by-step guide”).

    Among the rules for performing such work are the following:

    1. It will be convenient to make rotary joints in a rotator. It is desirable that the speed of work and rotation of the mechanism be the same.
    2. The point of contact between the metal and the arc (weld pool) should be located 30º below the top point of the pipe installed in the rotator, on the side opposite to the direction of rotation.
    3. This work can also be done manually. To do this, the pipe is rotated 60-110º each time to make it convenient to work with.

    However, the most difficult work will be when turning the pipe 180º.

    In this case, it is better to divide welding into 3 stages:

    • First of all, 2/4 sections of the pipe are welded in 1-2 layers along the outer radius of the bend.
    • Next, the pipe is unrolled and the remaining part of the seam is welded, completing all the layers at once.
    • At the end, the pipe is rotated again and the remaining layers of seam are added to the outer part of the bend.

    Welding of fixed joints is carried out in two stages.

    The working method is as follows:

    1. The pipe must be visually divided into two sections. The seam in this case will be horizontal, vertical, and ceiling at the same time.
    2. Welding begins from the bottom point of the circle, smoothly moving the electrode to the top point. Work in the same way on the opposite side.
    3. In this case, the arc is made short, with a length equal to ½ the thickness of the electrode core.
    4. The height of the roll seam can reach 2-4 mm, it all depends on the thickness of the pipe wall.

    The final stage of welding work is quality control of the joints.

    Options for welding galvanized pipes - advantages and disadvantages of methods

    Pipes made of galvanized steel are very widely used for laying various communications and constructing all kinds of metal structures, since they have good performance qualities. Installation of such products can be done in several ways. This material will tell you how to weld a galvanized pipe, and what features of this process may be important during the work.

    Methods for welding galvanized steel pipes

    The technology of electric welding of metal products involves heating the working surface of the seam to 1200 degrees, while the boiling point of zinc is only 906 degrees. Such a difference in performance in some cases leads to burnout of the zinc layer.

    Among the undesirable consequences of the welding process of galvanized pipes are:

    1. Zinc fumes are extremely harmful to health. If the room is not well ventilated, inhaled vapors can cause poisoning or temporary respiratory arrest for the worker.
    2. The zinc layer on the welding seam is damaged during operation, so corrosion processes can begin in this place, and the profile galvanized pipe will no longer last as long as it could.
    3. If intense zinc evaporation occurs during welding of a galvanized pipe with an electrode, the surface of the pipe may become covered with pores and cracks. As a result, the seam will not be sufficiently tight and strong.

    Thus, compliance with safety rules when working with these products is a prerequisite. The face must be protected with a special respirator and a mask made of dielectric materials. Rubberized gloves with thermal insulating fabric on top are put on your hands.

    If you pre-treat the working surface of the pipe with hydrochloric acid, you can avoid foaming of the zinc layer. Please note that ideally it is advisable not to allow the zinc coating to evaporate, so as not to deprive the pipe of corrosion protection. This can be achieved using several welding methods.

    The first method is to mechanically clean the galvanized layer using an abrasive wheel with emery or a metal brush. All further welding work will be carried out as with ordinary black pipes. The disadvantage of this technology is that it eliminates the corrosion protection that the zinc coating provides, so that the service life of such a pipeline is significantly reduced (read: “Types of pipe welding technologies - advantages and disadvantages of methods”). Due to contact with liquid, such a pipe will quickly begin to rust and very soon it will need to be repaired or completely replaced, which will entail additional labor, material and time costs.

    However, if the area without a zinc layer is small, it can be protected by the cathodic method - apply zinc sputtering to the cleaned area using an electrochemical method (read: “Options for cathodic protection of pipelines - advantages and disadvantages of methods”).

    An alternative technology for welding galvanized pipes is the use of special fluxes for soldering. In this case, there is no need to remove the zinc coating. This method is widely used in situations where it is impossible to clean the pipe. To connect pipes, UTP 1 alloy and HLS-B flux are required. It is noteworthy that flux completely dissolves upon contact with water, it is safe for health, so this method is quite acceptable for assembling plumbing systems.

    Method of welding galvanized pipes using flux

    Before welding galvanized pipes by electric welding using flux, the edges of the pipes must be cleaned until the metal shines and degreased, and both the outer and inner parts of the pipe should be subjected to treatment (about

    Checking the reliability of connections

    Often you will have to control the quality of the weld seam and the tightness of the system yourself by visual inspection.

    To do this, first the seam must be cleaned of slag and tapped with a light hammer. Next, visually inspect the seam itself for chips, cuts or cracks, poorly cooked pieces or burns through, as well as other defects.

    The last step will be to measure the thickness of the seam. To do this, you can use standard instruments, as well as probes, templates and other devices.

    Please note that the gas transmission or water supply system must also be checked for leaks. To do this, perform a test run of the liquid under pressure.

    Where are squeegees used and installed?

    Squeegees are used in water supply systems, heating systems, gas pipelines, they are installed:

    • In water supply and heating lines after the valve on the riser. This allows the shut-off valves to be removed from the pipeline in the event of a malfunction for repair or replacement.
    • When connecting old-style cast iron pipes to a heating radiator, their use also allows you to clean the pipeline from lime deposits and rust.
    • For the supply line when connecting autonomous equipment for heating water - gas boilers, boilers, expansion tanks and plumbing fittings (faucets with a herringbone connector).
    • On the pipeline for supplying gas to household and water heating equipment - stoves, boilers.
    • Sometimes surges are used in sections of the system to obtain additional outlet, while the coupling is replaced with a tee, and the distance between the pipes is increased.

    Safety rules when working with a welding machine

    An important point when carrying out any electrical work, including welding metal pipes, is compliance with safety regulations. If they are neglected, a variety of injuries can occur, such as thermal skin burns, arc flash burns to the retina, electric shocks, and others.

    Therefore, before starting work, you should perform the following steps:

    • current-carrying conductors and components of the welding machine must be insulated;
    • the body of the welding equipment and additional devices must be grounded;
    • overalls and gloves must be absolutely dry;
    • wear galoshes or lay a rubber mat in a small room for additional insulation;
    • To protect your eyes and face, you should wear a protective shield when working.

    Results

    Thus, we have partially explained how welding work should be performed on electrical equipment. Of course, for the job to be successful, you must have some practical skills. However, thanks to the information presented in the material, you will know where to start practicing. If you follow our recommendations, you will definitely be able to weld metal pipes at a decent level.

    Plastic pipes

    Not everyone knows that the name “plastic” hides a fairly wide range of materials. Therefore, you should not lump all plastic pipes into one pile, especially since each type has qualities and properties unique to it:

    • Polyethylene is characterized by high plasticity and softness. It has one problem - it cannot withstand high temperatures. Limit - +80C.
    • Polypropylene. It is superior to polyethylene in hardness, but has a lower specific gravity. It is often used in hot water supply and heating. By the way, most of these pipes go on sale without a reinforcing metal frame.
    • Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes are most often used to construct a sewer network. They are not used for heating.

    Self-production of the squeegee

    If necessary, you can make a squeegee of the required size yourself. To complete the work you will need:

    • metal steel pipe - a pipe cut of the appropriate length;
    • carpenter's vice to make work easier;
    • equipment for thread cutting: a die with a die holder for external threads or a tap for applying internal threads;
    • file (intended for chamfering);
    • grinder (metal hacksaw) for cutting, if you need to cut off a part of the pipe to prepare a pipe;
    • lubricant

    The work is performed in the following order:

    1. using a grinder or a hacksaw, the workpiece is cut to the appropriate length;

    Cutting a pipe with a grinder to make a bend

    1. the ends of the prepared cut are chamfered;
    2. the edges are treated with lubricant to facilitate thread cutting;
    3. the squeegee is clamped with a vice;
    4. The thread is cut using the selected equipment. The short part of the thread must be at least 5 threads, and the long part - 20 threads. If necessary, the long part can be increased to 30 threads.

    Thread cutting on the bend

    When making your own squeegee, you must not forget about the personal protective equipment of the master. It is recommended to use gloves and a face mask when cutting pipes.

    Water supply

    Before proceeding directly to electric welding, you must prepare a diagram of the future water supply, with the location of all communications. Such a layout will allow you to make the wiring optimal and be well prepared for a high-quality connection of pipes using a welding machine.

    What must be observed.

    • The hot water riser goes to the right, the cold water riser goes to the left (if vertical). In a horizontal position, the pipes run parallel - the hot water pipe runs above the cold one.
    • There must be a slight slope, which, if necessary, will allow water to be removed from the pipes. The slope is directed towards the riser or water intake point.
    • The distance between risers, pipes and the wall must be maintained.

    Welding protection

    In what cases are two different pipes joined?

    There are different situations, most often the connection is made during the renovation of buildings or premises with the installation of new networks. At the household level, this is the replacement of the internal wiring of the cold and hot water supply system, heating system and sewerage system. At the level of industrial facilities and highways, this is not only a major overhaul with replacement, but also a conversion to cost-effective materials. In this regard, plastic is several times cheaper than metal.

    Plastic pipes are inferior to metal pipes in withstanding external loads. Therefore, external networks are assembled from the latter, especially in places where they are laid and installed under highways and railways. Therefore, the joint between two types of pipes is a simple necessity that occurs frequently.

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