Upon completion of the main work associated with the construction of a country house, its walls and ceiling have an unfinished appearance and require preliminary preparation for their subsequent finishing. Regarding preparation, it should be said that the technique of its arrangement is individual for different categories of residential buildings and should be considered separately for each of the possible options for building structures.
Based on the foregoing, it follows that before making such a ceiling , you must first become familiar with the technique of its manufacture for various types of structures, such as, for example, permanent buildings with concrete floors or buildings with wooden beams.
In addition, one should take into account the fact that the order of arrangement of any structures also depends on the material used as decorative finishing.
Plasterboard sheets
This material is often used if you need to decide what to put on the ceiling in a private house.
You can use plasterboard to finish the ceiling as usual or build a multi-level system with built-in lighting fixtures. GCRs sew up niches between beams or completely cover them, creating a perfectly flat surface. The plasterboard ceiling covering is puttied and then painted with water-based emulsion in any color. This finishing method can, if desired, be combined with wooden elements or tensile structures.
Due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients and the large size of gypsum boards, they are not attached directly to the beams. They are mounted on hangers and guides, which have flexible contact with a wooden beam.
Advantages:
- low price;
- ease of processing;
- you can create structures of different shapes;
- good combination with any decoration;
- the material “breathes”, so condensation does not collect on it;
- easy to paint.
Flaws:
- the plasterboard structure turns out to be quite heavy and therefore puts a load on the floors;
- the material is at risk of water leaks;
- fragility.
How do they do it?
To make a false ceiling, a structure is created that imitates brickwork. Visually it looks like a brick one and is in no way different from the original. The work is divided into 2 stages:
- preparatory process and creation of the code;
- finishing of the ceiling structure “like brick”.
Creating a vault
There are 2 options:
- Drywall. The profiles must be curved in advance. To finish the vault, putty and primer are used.
- Instead of gypsum board, plywood is used. Some elements must be initially curved.
Brick finish
Gypsum tiles that imitate brick are required. They are glued to the surface of the arch structure. Only high quality glue is used. Purchased tiles are gray or white, so you need to paint the elements in advance. The fold of bricks is chosen at your discretion; the seams between the bricks are filled with jointing mixture. Next, decor is added and lamps are installed.
Use of suspended ceilings
For ceilings, you can choose different types of ceilings. One of the most popular are suspended ceilings in a wooden house. However, before finishing the surface with your own hands, you need to immediately think about your capabilities. These materials are very finicky to install, so sometimes it is better to entrust the work to professionals.
There are some advantages to using a suspended ceiling in a wooden house, since the timber base allows it to be used as a basis for tensioning the canvases. To sew up the surface, you need to make certain cells in which the materials are stretched. To do it yourself, use the following sequence:
- For the installation of cells, materials with dimensions of 100x50 mm and 200x100 mm are suitable. The thickness and width of the beam should be selected based on the overall dimensions of the room in which the tension fabrics will be used
- The next step is to identify the lowest point at which the base of the timber sheathing will be made. Having selected this point, draw from it using the level of the mark to all corners
- First, a board of timber is mounted along the length of the ceiling, and then inserts are made using shorter strips of timber to create squares
- Since tension materials have a wide color palette, you can install several color schemes at once that will highlight the ceiling in a wooden house in certain areas
- The ceiling in a private house in the kitchen must have moisture-resistant properties. Stretch ceilings are the most popular in the kitchen and bathroom.
- The lighting layout should occur before the installation of the canvases, so it is better to immediately decide where the lamps will be located
Suspended structures
A brick house with high ceilings allows the construction of more complex ceiling structures that occupy a large space.
- These include multi-level frame structures made of plasterboard. This is a very effective solution that allows you to zone, decorate, and change the proportions of the room. Installing it requires a lot of time, but the result is worth it. In addition, it is possible to install insulation here.
- Metal slatted ceilings are more often used in public places, as they are suitable for very high rooms. The option is extremely effective due to the combination of color and bright shine. In addition, such a design can be given complex three-dimensional shapes. Well, behind them you can hide any insulation or soundproofing material.
- Stretch ceilings in a brick house are an almost universal option. The minimum distance from the base surface is 5–6 cm. The maximum distance is not limited in any way, therefore numerous bulky communications are successfully hidden behind the tension film.
PVC film is distinguished by its exceptional decorative effect and almost unlimited possibilities. The canvas imitates any other material, can be not only of different colors, but also of any texture, and also reproduces any images, patterns and can be combined with other materials. The photo shows a tension fabric in combination with drywall.
How can I hem the ceiling?
The interior and style of the room largely depend on the material with which the rough ceiling will be covered. In addition, the specific features of the repair location should be taken into account.
You can hem the ceiling with the following materials:
- Drywall. GCR is affordable and quite easy to use. It is glued to the rough ceiling or screwed to a spatial frame made of a steel profile. Please note that in damp rooms only moisture-resistant drywall should be installed. External putty of the assembled surface is required.
- Plastic panels. These products have a presentable surface and are light in weight. As a rule, they are fixed to a frame made of timber, steel or plastic profile. If the base is well leveled, then the panels are glued to it using liquid nails.
- Wooden lining. This type of finishing has a pleasant and beautiful appearance, is environmentally friendly and durable. The slats can be attached either to a solid base or to a frame. Fixation is carried out using thin nails without heads or self-tapping screws.
- MDF panels. The front part of these products can imitate wood, natural stone, sky or plants. Fastening is carried out using special clamps (clasps), which press the edge of the slats to the base or frame.
- Plywood. Before installation, plywood sheets must be treated with an antiseptic and primer. If installation is carried out on a frame, then the joints of the sheets should be on its guides. After installation, seams are sealed and painted.
- Siding. Plastic siding is an ideal material for finishing non-residential and damp rooms, such as a bathroom, summer kitchen, garage and balcony. Installation of this coating is quite simple and does not take much time.
The choice of material for lining a rough ceiling depends on the purpose of the room, the taste and financial capabilities of the owner of the building.
Strengthening and insulation
Strengthening the ceiling structure is necessary when installing natural brick. For this, additional supports are used:
In modern construction, brick does not fully solve the issue of thermal insulation, so high-quality insulation is necessary. Each type of brick has its own thermal conductivity indicators. The higher they are, the more thicker the insulation layer is needed. To insulate the ceiling, the following materials are needed:
- mineral wool;
- fiberglass;
- expanded polystyrene;
- expanded clay
When choosing materials, it is important whether there is an attic. You need to know what direction the ceiling is in - it will be a suspended ceiling, a suspended ceiling, plasterboard, etc. Thermal insulation is done from the floor side, and thereby maintains the height in the rooms. Wooden logs are laid in the concrete floor. If there is no attic, the ceiling is insulated from the inside. You need to glue the surface with glassine and secure it with slabs of mineral wool or penoplex. The plates are installed in a spacer, the foam is glued, and the mineral wool is fixed with dowels.
Construction of a wooden rough covering
Before hemming the ceiling surface, you should understand the layers that make up the interfloor ceiling in a wooden house.
Floor layers from top to bottom:
- The topmost layer is plank flooring, which can be the base for the topcoat or serve as a final finish.
- A vapor barrier membrane is a mandatory layer. Membrane fabric prevents the formation of condensation on wooden structures, prevents the formation of wet areas, mold and fungal growth.
- Thermal insulation. It can be installed in any case, regardless of whether the premises are residential or not on the floor above. If the attic is not residential, the energy efficiency of the house increases; if the attic is residential, the sound insulation of the floors increases.
- Waterproofing. The layer is designed to protect insulation and wooden structures from moisture. If you do not lay waterproofing, humid air and hot steam, rising to the ceiling, will destroy the thermal insulation material - which will reduce the practical characteristics of the product.
- The rough ceiling is the last layer that is finished with the finishing cladding.
Sometimes boardwalks are left unlined, especially when good quality boards are used. If, after arranging the floors, the floor needs to be laid on the floor above, then a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation, then the plank base of the floor can be laid.
Ceiling surface height
Any type of paneling or ceiling structure requires some kind of space. Sometimes vanishingly small when it comes to painting or whitewashing. sometimes very significant - for example, when installing tension fabrics and hiding bulky communications. So the initial parameters of the room are almost decisive when choosing.
The height of the ceilings in a brick house depends on the project.
- “Stalin” - most projects of that time were distinguished by very high ceilings - 33.5 m. Sometimes the value reached up to 4.5 m. Here it is possible and even necessary to install a volumetric ceiling structure in order to adjust the proportions of the room.
- “Khrushchevka” is the other extreme. With a small area, the apartments could boast record low ceilings - 2.1–2.3 m. Here, the finishing has to be chosen so that it does not reduce the height of the room.
- In modern houses, depending on the project, different heights of the rooms are assumed, but in general the value ranges from 2.55 to 2.7 m. How and what type of ceiling to make here depends on many accompanying factors.
How to make a ceiling in a wooden houseDo-it-yourself ceilingRough ceilingCeiling construction
In this video I’ll show you how to make a ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands, I’ll tell you about some secrets when filing a rough ceiling, which worked well when building a bathhouse from timber, so I decided to use them when installing a ceiling in a house made of timber. Watch other videos on the channel dedicated to building a house from profiled timber with your own hands:
Waterproofing a strip foundation with glass insulation // DIY foundation // Laying a plinth: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NoDm…
Markings for laying the first row of a brick plinth//Laying a plinth with your own hands: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmjAU…
Laying the first row of bricks//Single-row corner ligation system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPDY8…
We cover the vertical seams in the brickwork // Basement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krW7j…
Laying the second row of bricks//Single-row corner ligation system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_oEx…
How to level the foundation // Leveling the foundation // Setting angles to the horizon // Review of the laser level: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87mJT…
Ventilation in the basement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzGe1…
Is it possible to fill the foundation in parts // Do-it-yourself foundation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7BG2…
Penoplex instead of a lining board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOoDW…
Stencils for assembling timber into a “Warm Corner”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj8T6…
Connecting timber into a warm corner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w-Hh...
How to trim profiled timber in the corners when assembling it into a “Warm Corner”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtHGk…
The simplest exhaust ventilation//Ceiling insulation with sawdust: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbvF5…
Assembling a house from timber using dowels: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpQkF...
How to bleach wood // Frost vs Whiteness: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEhlS…
Floor joists in a house made of timber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXKKe...
Simple do-it-yourself septic tank//Sewerage for a private house: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJRxU…
Installation of shrinkage compensators (aka adjustable lift (jack): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAoDM…
Floor beams//Installation of floor beams: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxIoh…
Installation of studs during the construction of a house made of profiled timber //Shrinkage of a house made of timber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Nuz…
The simplest exhaust ventilation in a private house. Part 2//How to get rid of condensation in ventilation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SH_PY…
Preserving a house made of timber for the winter // Preparing an unfinished house for winter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CI6mE…
Heating a private house//Breneran solid fuel boiler//Leningradka//Single-pipe heating system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpkPf…
Spring unit strength. Beginning of the 2021 construction season: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tL6AF…
Mauerlat // House made of profiled timber // Application of the “Strength” knot.: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXq_2…
House made of profiled timber//Do-it-yourself house//Gables: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpB2-…
Installation of truss beams//Lay down with chopped gables: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCSia…
Installation of the ridge of a house made of timber // Ridge beam: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pKMV…
Splicing rafters along the length: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXBFx...
DIY roof. Part 1//Preparation of gables: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAsAk…
DIY roof. Part 2//Installation and fastening of rafters: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu6XK…
DIY roof. Part 3//Installing slides//Roof sheathing//Banner instead of roofing felt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHj79…
Do-it-yourself pigtail // Preparing the opening // Making a casing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRKqm…
Water well//Do-it-yourself well//How to drill a well//Zhelonka: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2l9Y…
Cellar in the house//Filling the floors in the underground//Basement of a private house: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Jfxt…
Laying sewer pipes underground//Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house//Sewer slope: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Nscs…
What happened to the house after the winter//House made of profiled timber//Review of a house made of timber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGC4C…
Leveling a wall in a wooden house//Bent a wall from a timber//How to level a wall: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O87Q…
Arched lintels, arches and vaults
The principle of constructing arched ceilings of openings and vaults does not differ from the laying of wedge lintels. The shape of the arch can be arched, lancet, semi-circular, or box-shaped. They differ in the choice of center, segment size and circle radius.
In any embodiment, the center line of the seam is perpendicular to the inner surface of the lintel or arch. The curved line is formed due to the wedge-shaped joint or wedge-shaped brick. In the case of an arched opening, the center line of the seam is a continuation of the radius of the curve.
Calculation of the arched lintel: 1 - onion arch; 2 - semicircular arch; h—arc height; s is the width of the window or door opening; r — arc radius
The thickness of the seams is taken as in wedge lintels:
- minimum 5 mm - for the bottom of the vertical seam;
- maximum - 25 mm - for the upper part.
1 - lintel brick;
2 - wedge-shaped solution; 3 - castle brick; 4 - circled The shape of the formwork is made in accordance with the selected shape of the ceiling. Checking the radial direction of the seams and the correct curvature of the arches is done with a rope tied to the center of the circle of each section of the lintel. You can make a template-gon for the desired outline of a semicircle or segment.
Arches are laid out according to the principle of an arched lintel. Vaults today are erected during the construction of public buildings, churches or temples. To construct them, continuous formwork of the required shape is made. Cylindrical vaults are often laid out in a “Christmas tree”. The masonry is carried out simultaneously parallel to the axis of the arch and in rows at an angle of 45°.
Wedges are placed under the formwork, which are gradually removed when stripping the formwork to ensure its uniform lowering. Fresh masonry is very sensitive to loads. You cannot place containers with mortar on it or place bricks for masonry. This can lead to distortion of the shape of the ceiling and disruption of the bonding of the brick and mortar.
Vaults and arches of complex configuration require highly qualified masons, and it is better to entrust the work to a specialist. Having understood the intricacies of the technology of brick ceilings for openings, the construction of lintels and arches of a simple configuration will not be difficult.
Brick lintels, arches and vaults that came from the past, and today decorate the facade of the house, fencing, small architectural forms, fireplaces and stoves, harmoniously fitting into the interior or exterior of almost any architectural style.
Rough ceiling finish
There are many durable materials for lining a rough ceiling, embodying the intended interior, a special design of the room, even without cladding, in an antique style. Depending on the purpose of the interior of the room, finishing and decor are selected.
Filing the rough ceiling
For example, for rough renovations, interior design, when planning a design or decor in a bathhouse, you cannot use the following elements:
Various wooden ceiling panels: chipboard, fiberboard, plywood, because with high humidity they will deform. Plastic, it can be used to decorate a rough base, a ceiling with a wood and antique look, to emphasize the design even without facing cladding, but it has poor thermal insulation properties, condensation will form, and then mold on the finish. Timber containing resins that will drip when heated
This can be lath or MDF, it is important to check before purchasing.. https://www.youtube.com/embed/LeOoQZaFNc0
If you work alone
It’s hard to find a good helper, so sometimes a builder has a question about how to line a ceiling with boards alone. In general, the principle of filing a rough ceiling remains unchanged, but here you will have to choose building materials more meticulously. In particular, when working alone, it is better to give preference to lightweight materials that you can easily hold yourself, such as PVC panels or MDF. If it is intended to be hemmed with boards, then it is better to lay the lumber on top of the interfloor floor beams.
It is noteworthy that you can also attach the boards to the bottom, but here you will have to use homemade spacers that will support one end of the board, replacing the missing assistant. You can also use various hooks on which one end of the board is hung until secured.
Installation of false ceiling
For a high-quality solution to the question of how to make a false ceiling, experts recommend following a certain sequence of actions:
- First of all, it is necessary to prepare the hemming material. At this stage, the lumber is treated with an antiseptic composition to protect against fungus and mold, as well as an agent that prevents the material from igniting. After treatment, the boards are dried well in natural conditions.
- At the second stage, the finished lumber is brought into the room where installation work will be carried out. If you have equipment for lifting loads, you can immediately lift all the material up and lay it on the floor beams. But it is better to use this method if the building is under construction.
- The fastening of the hemming material begins from one of the walls. 2-3 boards are placed perpendicular to the beams and secured to them using nails or self-tapping screws. Accordingly, use a hammer or screwdriver. The boards can be placed close to each other or with a small gap. This depends on the type of insulation used or if it is necessary to save hemming material.
- Next, the thermal insulation material is laid. The openings between the floor beams are filled with polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
- The entire ceiling area is hemmed in this order.
STRENGTHENING VOUCHED FLOORS
A vault is a type of floor formed by inclined surfaces. A vaulted ceiling works differently than a regular ceiling. Under load, the arch works primarily in compression. The vaults transfer the resulting vertical compression force to the supporting structures. In many types of arches, additional force arises - horizontal (this force is also called thrust). The horizontal thrust may have different meanings or be absent altogether.
Vaults are a characteristic architectural element of temples and old buildings built before the beginning of the 20th century. The main materials for creating vaults are stone and brick.
Typical damage to vaulted ceilings.
Typical damage to arched ceilings are:
2) Dumping out individual bricks or stones.
3) Weathering of masonry mortar.
How to repair and strengthen a damaged brick/stone vault?
The task of repairing and strengthening brick/stone ceiling vaults comes down to a set of measures, namely:
Stage 1
Cleaning the arched vault from loose particles, cement laitance, dust, and dirt. It can be done manually using grinding machines and steel brushes, as well as by sandblasting or water blasting.
Stage 2
Repairing cracks by injection and installing anchors, repairing brickwork, restoring masonry mortar.
Stage 3
Direct measures to strengthen the structure. There are different ways to enhance this. The most convenient and effective are the following 2 methods:
1 way to strengthen vaulted ceilings:
Reinforcement by installing a special carbon mesh on a polymer-cement mortar. This method became known thanks to the developments of such companies as the Italian company Ruredil and the Swiss concern Sika. The method is based on the arrangement of composite reinforcement in the form of a mesh and a binder in the form of polymer cement. The resulting composite material has a high tensile load-bearing capacity, is also vapor-permeable for brickwork and has similar linear expansion characteristics. To strengthen, it is necessary to carry out a special calculation and obtain the amount of material, the number of layers and their location on the brick. The mesh holds the surface of the brickwork together, keeping the bricks from falling out, and also works in tension when glued to the top of the arch.
2 way to strengthen vaulted ceilings:
The main and most popular way to strengthen a brick/stone vault is to gunite structures with special concrete. Shotcrete is the mechanized application of concrete. First, the vault is reinforced, and then a layer of shotcrete is applied, i.e. the result is a kind of shell that follows the shape of the brickwork.
Cost, terms and guarantees.
The list of necessary works, the timing of their implementation and the final cost are determined individually after inspection of the facility. All services provided are guaranteed for a period of 5 years.
Call:
to get detailed advice and call an engineer to the site. Contact SDT - and the reinforcement of the vaulted ceiling will be carried out efficiently and on time!
Ceiling installation
For work you will need, in addition to the selected building materials:
- trestles or a stepladder (it is recommended to take two stepladders, because the help of at least one person is required);
- hammer;
- drill;
- screwdriver (if there is a need to secure it with screws);
- pencil and long ruler for marking;
- construction tape;
- knife, jigsaw or other cutting tool (drywall can be cut with a knife, but for boards you will need a hacksaw or jigsaw).
It is recommended to prepare all the necessary tools in advance.
There are two installation options.
First way
A rough wooden ceiling is made from boards or clapboards (the boards are nailed to a wooden beam close to each other), and then decorative trim - siding, plastic or decorative plywood - is attached to them using glue or self-tapping screws.
For those who are doing this kind of work with their own hands for the first time, this method is the most convenient, because errors when attaching wood will be hidden during decoration. But at the same time, extra time is spent on rough cladding and the consumption of building materials increases. Also, a rough ceiling base from boards or lining is made when it is planned to make a suspended or suspended ceiling below.
Second way
A frame made of metal profiles, wood or plastic is fixed to a wooden beam base. Selected finishing building materials are screwed to it. Such repairs can be done with your own hands much faster. Of course, the drywall will need to be additionally finished, but plastic, siding and MDF boards will become both a rough ceiling and a beautiful option for decorative finishing.
This method is not recommended when a vapor barrier has been previously installed. Experienced builders advise placing boards impregnated with a fire-retardant compound between vapor barrier materials and decorative finishes.
A rough ceiling covering will help hide unsightly but necessary building elements, such as electrical wiring or beam foundations. But before you start creating a draft ceiling, you should carefully consider all the nuances of using the room. It may be possible not only to hide the wooden ceiling beams and other building elements, but also to create a decorative finish at the same time. Combining a draft and decorative ceiling will help save money.
Frame structures
The main problem with using drywall is the use of a metal supporting frame made of galvanized steel. It is not difficult to mark and assemble the suspension system, but the process is quite slow and labor-intensive, since most parts and attachment points must be manually aligned using a laser beam or a stretched paint cord.
Most assembly operations when installing a frame can be done using metal scissors, a screwdriver and a marking tool. It is not difficult to learn how to assemble; to work with a simple suspended ceiling, it is enough to make several types of fastenings under the guidance of an experienced craftsman. It makes sense to try to do it yourself, since the commercial rate for assembling plasterboard structures starts at $15/m2.
Plasterboard sheets laid on the ceiling are primed and rubbed at the joints. The rough coating is not very beautiful, so the ceiling is painted or covered with photo wallpaper.
For your information! The use of plasterboard sheets makes it possible to create ceilings with a perfectly flat surface. Even if you do not use additional types of finishing, but only painting, due to the precise and perfect geometry of the overlap, they still turn out very beautiful.
It’s easier to make a beautiful ceiling from ready-made MDF panels. Cladding with a beautiful laminated coating of PVC film, like plasterboard, is laid on a metal ceiling frame or lathing made of wooden planks.
Ceiling cladding made of MDF is rarely used in residential areas of apartments; usually this material is used for balconies, corridors or kitchens. It turns out very beautiful, especially if the selected material has the texture and pattern of valuable wood species.
Sheathing with boards or panels
To hem the ceiling with fiberboard or plastic along beams or counter-lattice, work begins with the most visible wall in the room.
There is a certain procedure for hemming the ceiling in a house with a board:
- The material is measured with a tape measure or locally and cut with a jigsaw from the wrong side.
- It is attached to nails or screws. The first of the boards is fixed at the places where it intersects with the counter-lattice.
- The lining or tongue-and-groove board is hammered with a wooden hammer or block until a complete tongue-and-groove connection is achieved and secured to the outer elements of the sheathing. They are fixed to the intermediate bars one after another in a checkerboard pattern to avoid damage to the cladding.
- After finishing the covering of the entire ceiling surface, the places of contact with the walls are covered with skirting boards made of wood or polymer materials.
- The boards are coated with water-based wood impregnation or a coloring compound.
When fiberboard is planned to be used only for filling niches between beams, the finishing material is attached to pre-nailed bars. At the same time, the filing technology is similar. The same method is used for finishing with plastic panels or MDF, but to prevent chipping, experts recommend pre-drilling small-diameter holes in the products at the attachment point.
Wedge lintels
Wedge lintels do not require reinforced mortar support. The load-bearing capacity of such a lintel occurs due to the expansion in the wedge-shaped installation of the brick.
Exists for the option of installing wedge jumpers:
- wedge-shaped vertical joint of masonry;
- wedge-shaped brick.
In the case of a wedge-shaped seam, its thickness at the bottom is taken to be at least 5 mm, and at the top - no more than 25 mm. If wedge bricks are used, the joint in the masonry is made of the same thickness of no more than 10 mm. Wedge lintels are installed using formwork with circles.
If a window or doorway is placed with quarters, then to construct a wedge lintel you will need three circles. One is made shorter and installed at the level of the quarters, the other two - inside the opening. Longer circles are covered with formwork, which can be made from boards.
The wall is laid to the level of the upper part of the lintel with a heel (support) device. In this case, the angle of inclination of the edge of the lintel (bricks) relative to the vertical is immediately determined. Next, you need to mark all the rows on the formwork of the future floor. Their number must be odd. When calculating the design of each row, it is important to take into account the thickness of the seam.
The central brick row is inserted vertically and acts as a lock. It creates compression in the lower part of the lintel and makes it possible to withstand the overlying load without reinforcement.
1 - lock; 2 - heel
They begin laying the wedge lintel from the heels to the middle on both sides, in order to ultimately approach the central brick - the castle. You can maintain the exact direction of each seam by finding the point of intersection of the direction lines of both heels. A nail is driven into this place on the formwork and the line of each seam is determined using a rope tied to the nail.
Plasterboard and plywood ceilings
Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard
The choice of plasterboard and plywood for the ceiling is one of the most popular design options for subsequent decorative finishing. In order to do the work yourself, you should first assess the condition of the ceiling. This is especially necessary for old wooden houses.
Important! Drywall sheets can be installed in several ways. Before you make a ceiling in a wooden house, you should know that using glue to install slabs is unacceptable
Finishing with plasterboard slabs involves installing the material on a lathing made of wood, metal profiles or on the base of the ceiling itself. All types have their advantages and disadvantages, but the best is installation on a frame made of metal profiles. The advantages of fixing drywall in this way:
- Long service life, since the material is not subject to deformation and the influence of negative factors
- A thermal insulation layer can be fixed between the profile sheathing
- The easy DIY installation process means you can save on costs and cover the surface with minimal effort
- Using the profile you can make multi-level ceilings
The only disadvantages of using drywall include the price of the material and the need to use improvised tools. However, if you are used to doing repairs yourself, then you will not have problems with the availability of tools for installing drywall.
You can also decorate the ceiling with plywood. If we take into account the possibility of purchasing laminated elements, then subsequent finishing will definitely not be required. But if you sheathe the ceiling with low-grade plywood, then the following work should be carried out:
- In order to paint the plywood base, it should be treated with special compounds. Water-based paint can be used for painting
- Painting can be done with a brush or roller. For structural paints, special rollers are required
- If you decide to paint plywood in two layers, then wait for the first to dry completely and only then apply the second
- A ceiling trimmed with plywood dries in an average of 24 hours
Two methods of thermal insulation of reinforced concrete floors
When building stone or brick houses, a reinforced concrete slab can be laid instead of conventional beam floors. It is impossible to use methods for insulating a wooden ceiling outside concrete floors.
You can properly insulate a concrete ceiling by laying a heat-insulating screed on the attic side. There are two thermal insulation options:
- Expanded clay concrete screed over a layer of expanded polystyrene. This insulation option is relevant both for used attic spaces and for laying between floors. That is, it will be possible to walk on the insulated floor;
- Wood concrete screed. Sawdust concrete (wood concrete) is a good thermal insulator, but this screed has a low density, so it is used in unused attics.
Method 1: insulation with expanded clay concrete and expanded polystyrene
Expanded clay backfill can be used as an independent insulation in a house outside the ceiling
Materials you will need:
Expanded clay. Warm concrete requires material with a fraction of 0.2-1.0 cm².
| Illustration | Description of material |
| Cement M300. This brand of cement will be sufficient, since the strength of expanded clay concrete, in addition to cement, is provided by expanded clay. | |
| The sand is sown. Sand is used as a filler, so it must be dry and clean. The best sand for concrete is river sand. | |
| Extruded polystyrene foam. For laying in two layers we will use heat-insulating material with a thickness of 50 mm. | |
| Polyurethane foam. We will use foam to glue the polystyrene foam to the ceiling. On average, one large container should be enough for 10 standard sheets. | |
| Lighthouses. Using these guide profiles, the rule will be to level the screed as if on rails. |
The technology for insulation with expanded clay concrete is as follows:
Laying expanded clay concrete. Using a shovel, unload the solution into the gap between the beacons and disperse it with a trowel. Then we draw out the solution using the rule.
Method 2: insulation with sawdust concrete
Materials you will need:
| Illustration | Description of material |
| Wood sawdust. Lumber waste is used as a filler in the solution. | |
| Cement M300. It is not by chance that the strongest brand of cement was chosen: the price of M300 is lower than the price of M400, and additional strength on the floor is unnecessary. | |
| The sand is sown. Sand is suitable for any fraction, the main thing is that there are no clay impurities. Dry the sand before use to make it easier to make the dry mixture. | |
| Silicate glue. A time-tested option is liquid glass, with which concrete will become stronger during operation and more pliable during installation. | |
| Alabaster. Alabaster mortar dries quickly, so we use it to install beacons and immediately begin screeding. | |
| Lighthouses are galvanized. These guide profiles do not rust, so they can be placed in the solution and left there. |
The sawdust concrete insulation technology is as follows:
We prepare sawdust. We put the sawdust indoors and leave it to dry.
Installation of beacons. We expose the beacons to a thick alabaster solution. The installation height of the beacons is 10-15 cm.
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
Prepare the solution.
| |
| Laying the mixture. We spread the solution on top of the ceiling, lightly tamping it and leveling it with a trowel. During drying, the concrete will shrink and the screed will become lower by about 1 cm. |
Sheathing with boards or clapboard design options and installation technology
Before making a ceiling in a private house, please note that for covering it in a wooden building it is better to choose a board, wooden lining or MDF. Plastic panels in this case will be inappropriate
For an original design, you can choose laminate, and a block house looks great in a house made of timber.
Advantages:
- Environmentally friendly. The panels, like the boards for the ceiling in the house, are made from wood material without the use of resins and harmful phenol.
- Design. The color, texture and width of the cladding can be selected for each specific interior.
- Water resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture, which makes it possible to install it in bathrooms, saunas, and kitchens.
- Easy care. To clean the lining, simply wipe it with a damp cloth without using cleaning agents.
- Functionality. All necessary communications can be easily placed inside the structure of such a ceiling.
Finishing option
Technologically, the installation process is practically the same and includes several stages:
- Construction of the ceiling frame. In wooden houses for this purpose they make lathing from bars. In rooms with possible sudden temperature changes (bathroom, kitchen) and a high risk of deformation of the wooden base, it is better to use metal profiles.
- Before you line the ceiling with a board or clapboard made of wood, it needs to be kept in the room for several days for acclimatization.
- The material is cut to the length of the room. In this case, it is necessary to provide a gap of 3-5 mm. It is needed to allow free expansion of the slats with possible changes in temperature and humidity.
- The installation of the first ceiling element begins from the wall opposite the entrance to the room or from the window.
- The board is nailed to the bars, or with self-tapping screws if the base is a metal profile. The lining, which is attached using the tongue-and-groove method, must be fixed into the groove every 20 cm. From the groove side, the panel is attached to the frame using clamps. This metal plate is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws or a nail on one side, and its second part has a recess into which the panel fits. All subsequent strips are assembled in this way.
- The last plank needs to be cut not only in length, but also in width, not forgetting to leave gaps from the walls. In addition, it must be secured in the same way as the first.
- Holes for spotlights can be made before or after installing the panels on the ceiling.
- Final finishing work includes the installation of lamps and plinths, the function of which is to embellish the interior of the room, as well as hide the seams between the ceiling and the wall. If desired, the material can be coated with colorless varnish.
Ceiling made of lining
Easy way
Naturally, we will talk about creating a structure that will only imitate masonry. At the same time, in appearance, such a vaulted ceiling will be very similar to one assembled from real brick, practically no different from its original version. To do this, you will need to divide the design work into two stages:
- Preparation and creation of the vault.
- Finishing the resulting vaulted ceiling “like a brick”.
The easiest way to create such a composition is from plasterboard. The same set of materials is used for assembly as for standard suspended ceilings. The only difference is that the profiles will be curved according to a pre-made template and secured in such a way that the gypsum board parts attached to them take the shape of an arch or dome. After assembly, the surface of the resulting arch must be leveled with putty and primed.
The second option for assembling such a floor involves using plywood instead of profiles and gypsum boards. A frame is assembled from plywood parts resembling ribs and plywood, slightly curved in advance, is attached to them. This method is much more complicated and is not very justified either materially or aesthetically. However, many people use it quite successfully.
Preliminary preparation
It is necessary to calculate all the expenses necessary to build a rough foundation.
- Ladder;
- Construction trestle;
- Self-tapping screws, screwdriver;
- Sheathing material, heat and vapor barrier;
- Construction level, stationery knife;
- Antiseptic, construction adhesive, fire-fighting compound.
First, I inspect the beams for defects: cracks, chips, curvature, mold, cover the cracks with putty, clean suspicious areas, treat them with an antiseptic, primer, after which they can be painted, if necessary, to do it once and for centuries.
The rough base together with the beams can be treated with an antiseptic with the addition of a teaspoon of universal construction glue so that the mixture does not drip and creates a more durable film.
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The most important supporting structure of any building is the concealment. Depending on the periods of construction, the floors of residential buildings have some differences. ST Vaulted ceilings. Before the use of rolled metal beams and reinforced concrete in construction, the spaces above basements and commercial premises in the first floors of residential buildings were covered with brick vaults. The fireproof construction of a brick vault has been the most common type of ceiling since ancient times.
In old houses, in addition, there are false vaults - wooden curved plastered ceilings, sometimes decorated with sculptural ornaments. To avoid mistakes during the examination, a conclusion on the vault, like any other brick structure, can be given only after opening the plaster.
The most stable and durable is the semicircular form of the vault, where the ratio of the lifting boom to the span is approximately 1:2.
Vaulted ceilings that span spaces between walls (or are supported by pillars or columns) are called vaults, in contrast to arches and lintels that span openings in walls. The names of the parts of the vault are indicated in Fig. 38.
Among the vaults that cover the premises of old residential buildings in Leningrad, the main place is occupied by cylindrical ones:
straight, when their axis and shell are horizontal and the arch is part of a straight cylinder; oblique - the axis is not perpendicular to the cheeks; creeping - heels lie at different heights; semicircular - the inner surface forms a semicircle.
Semicircular arches can be raised or lowered. A semicircular lowered vault is sometimes called a radial vault; its outer surface is smaller than a semicircle, and the guide is an arc of a circle described from one center. In a semicircular lowered box vault, the lower surface is described from several centers.
A small area of premises, including those above built-in passages, is usually covered with other types of vaults: cross, closed, domed and sail.
The intersection of a small vault with a large one is called stripping.
Two intersecting cylindrical vaults, supported by pillars and having identical lifting arrows, form a cross vault. Thus, the distinctive feature of cross vaults is that only square rooms are covered with these vaults and the support of the vault is pillars and not walls.
In cases where a rectangular or square room is covered with intersecting cylindrical surfaces resting on the walls, a closed vault is formed
A dome vault is a vault, the inner surface of which is formed from the rotation of an arc of a circle or ellipse around a vertical axis. Typically, domed vaults cover round rooms.
A domed vault that covers rectangular rooms is called sailing. The sail is a structure that is transitional from a rectangular base to a domed vault. The pressure and thrust of the sail vault, as well as the dome vault, are transmitted along the entire length of the supporting walls.
In order for an expert to give an opinion whether the vault can withstand a given load, he must make a static calculation. When inspecting buildings, sometimes a specialist is immediately required to give a fundamental assessment of the quality of the vault and the approximate possible load on it. To do this you need to know the following:
1. If the integrity of the vault of an ancient house is not broken, i.e. There are no cracks in the masonry, no individual stones fall out and the inner surface of the vault is not damaged, then we can assume that this structure has stood the test of time and can be preserved for future use.
With the thickness of the vault in the castle being 1/2 a brick and the usual span of a residential building, a 5.5-7.5 meter vault can only support its own weight. Typically, above such a vault there is a flat ceiling that carries the payload.
3. With a castle vault thickness of 1 brick, the vault can carry a payload of up to 2 MPa, and with a castle vault thickness of 2 bricks, the payload can reach 5 MPa.
Wooden floors. In old houses there is a wide variety of cross-sections of beams: beams with a selected groove, with a selected “skull”, hewn into two edges for the attic floor.
Thermal and sound insulation of the attic floor was made from a layer of crushed clay 2-4 cm thick, a half-brick was pressed into it, so that the individual bricks were tightly adjacent to one another. The clay squeezed out filled the seams. This type of thermal insulation was called brick grease. After the joints had dried, they were poured with liquid lime mortar to fill the voids.
Anchors and brackets were made of strip steel 1-1.5 cm thick, 6-7 cm wide, and pins were made of square steel with a cross-section of 2 X 2 cm. Removing anchored beams from the masonry in the case of replacing floors is associated with a significantly larger volume of repair work walls than when dismantling beams without anchors, so finding out the presence of anchors for an expert recommending replacement of the floor is mandatory.
When examining old buildings, you may encounter sub-beams on supports that are difficult to find in a building in use. When constructing buildings, they were laid on ledges or directly embedded in the masonry. You should pay attention to the sub-beams discovered during the inspection, since if a wooden floor is replaced with reinforced concrete, the sub-beams must also be removed. If they are laid on the longitudinal middle wall on both sides, their cross-section is usually about 20 cm, then the replacement of the beam floor with reinforced concrete flooring is generally questioned, since bilateral grooves larger than the cross-section of the sub-beams will weaken the wall and repair becomes impossible.
It should be noted that the presence of a sub-beam cannot be determined by any device. It is technically possible to do this only by opening the floor, as shown in Fig. 43. For this, a sharp rod is needed, the impact of which near the edge of the beam determines the presence of a sub-beam; if it is not there, the rod will rest against the brick.
Stoves and kitchen fires in residential buildings were placed on a flooring made of boards laid on top of beams, and in some cases, the bases for stoves were made on a flooring made of boards based on I-beams or railway rails embedded in the masonry of the walls. Subsequently, the hearths and stoves were dismantled, and the steel beams on which they were based were preserved under the floors. During the examination, one should be careful and not mistake the bases for the stoves for floor beams.
Assembly of hydro- and vapor barrier
First, you need to decide what the room will be used for; if there is another heated room on top, then there is no point in installing heat and sound insulation on the sub-ceiling; wooden surfaces distribute noise and heat quite well. The vapor barrier is installed along the entire perimeter of the ceiling, especially well stretched in the corners, laid with an overlap, the boards are mounted overlapping. This will help protect the rough base and wooden ceiling from rotting and mold.
Ceiling vapor barrier - effective and high quality
Subtleties of laying insulation
If the insulation is installed incorrectly, it is possible to destroy the baseboards and decor, the rough ceiling, even cause a fire, for which you should slowly study the instructions so as not to confuse the sides, because the markings of different companies may contradict each other.
It is enough to cut circles of about 20 cm in the material around the planned lamp; this will create good fire safety, which is extremely important for a wooden house and wooden decorative elements. It is important to establish these places during the installation of the material - we measure the places from the wall, then put a mark on top, in the form of a circle with a diameter of 20 cm
Integrated thermal insulation reduces building energy losses
The same applies to vapor barrier, although the material is quite durable, but unstable to high temperatures, it can melt and lead to a fire, especially if the rough, facing and decor are made of untreated lining.
Thus, an emphasized design can lead to dire consequences for the interior and the integrity of the room. But since the lamps and decor are not mounted to the sub-ceiling, like the wiring, it is enough to install heat-reflecting foil, 20 by 20 cm squares, on the vapor barrier below, at the mounting points. It will not be visible, but it will help preserve the interior of the room and not damage the intended design with decor.
Installing thermal insulation in a wooden ceiling
As we see, it is quite possible to make a wooden ceiling with your own hands quickly and efficiently. In addition, you can hem the rough base yourself, faster, better than many workers.
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How to build a roof for a brick house?
Having studied construction technology and installation rules, it is possible to make a roof with your own hands. A properly constructed roof of a brick house will not only reliably protect against precipitation and save heat, but will also allow you to create a comfortable attic-type room. Using modern materials during construction, you can make the roof of your house reliable and give the building a unique look.
Materials
You can hem the ceiling along wooden beams with various materials. Designs that combine original finishing options from several panels look beautiful, resulting in a completely or partially smooth coating. Such a surface can be additionally covered with foam tiles, textured wallpaper or painted.
In addition, in modern design, a variety of materials are used for cladding ceilings.
Fiberboard. Sheets of the product are cut in such a way that their end parts are placed in the middle of the beam. The fiberboard is attached to the structure using wooden beams measuring 20×40 mm or fixed with special logs. To do this, recesses are cut out in the boards and an additional corner or beam is inserted.
With this type of finishing, it is important to ensure that the fiberboard panels do not sag. Therefore, they are nailed and laid with the seam offset or in a checkerboard pattern.
Plywood
If the texture of the wood is not important for the interior of the room, then the ceilings are sheathed with plywood, it is attached with self-tapping screws and nailed down. In this case, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the beams, since this material is heavy. The thickness of the sheets is selected depending on the distance between the logs. Upon completion of the sheathing, the seams are sealed with wood putty or mastic. Then the surface is well primed and covered with finishing.
- OSB (OSB) boards. This material is considered inexpensive, easy to install and easy to process. OSB boards can be used to cover ceilings in any room. The only drawback of the product is the presence of resin in its composition, but if the material is made with high quality, then during its operation the emission of formaldehyde will be small. The slabs are assembled quickly, since their design is similar to lining and has special grooves. After such covering, the ceilings acquire a smooth and seamless surface.
- Drywall. It is the most common material for covering surfaces; it is easily attached to both wooden and aluminum frames. With its help, you can create beautiful multi-level systems or simply create an insert between wooden beams. After installing the drywall, it is necessary to seal all the joints; to do this, apply a special construction mesh and cover it with putty.
- Sandwich panels. They are an excellent insulation material that is easily joined using a special connection. The panels are screwed to the beams with self-tapping screws and then painted. The material is available with a matte and glossy surface and does not require additional processing. They can either completely cover the ceiling or make separate inserts vertically or horizontally.
- Wooden lining. It is one of the most popular types of material that looks beautiful in the cladding of private houses; wood products are environmentally friendly and have a pleasant aroma. The board-lined ceiling maintains a certain microclimate in the room and absorbs excess moisture. If such a structure is installed correctly, it will last for many years and provide good sound and heat insulation. Most often, clapboards made of cedar, alder, pine and oak are chosen for cladding ceilings. Its width varies from 30 mm to 150 mm, and its length can reach six meters. Of course, such cladding is considered expensive, since, in addition to installation, the boards must be additionally coated with varnish, which, when dried, creates a protective film and makes the coating resistant to moisture.
Types of brick covering openings
A lintel is the covering of a door or window opening. Reinforced concrete lintels are most widely used in construction. They can span long spans and withstand heavy loads.
Brick lintels are used only for non-load-bearing walls, as they do not have sufficient strength for this. The span width should not exceed 1.7 m.
1 - private; 2 - wedge-shaped; 3 - arched; 4 - arched beam
Ordinary brick lintels are called ordinary lintels. The bricks in them are supported by reinforcement. Wedge, bow, lancet, arched, semicircular and box lintels are used as an architectural detail of facades.
1 - semicircular; 2 - lancet; 3 - box
Their variety is determined by the shape of the opening, or more precisely, the outline of its upper part. According to the principle of an arched lintel, vaults are laid out, which are the ceiling of buildings.
Before the invention of concrete (late 19th century), openings were covered with brick lintels. It was not only a tribute to beauty. Wedge and types of arched openings held the load from the wall due to the expansion, which ensured the fan arrangement of the bricks in the masonry.
Installation
It is quite possible to sheathe the ceiling using wooden beams with your own hands. To do this, you first need to prepare all the tools, finishing material, as well as glue and mixtures for wood processing. In the case where the beams will act as the basis for the ceiling, they should be carefully checked for the presence of fungus and mold. If there are defects, the logs must be treated with an antiseptic solution, and cracks and chips must be filled with putty.
After completing the preparatory work, you can perform installation, which consists of several stages.
- First of all, you should create a vapor barrier layer and cover the beams. This is best done using plastic film or parchment, which can be easily attached with a stapler. Then the logs should be lined with any rough material; most often, edged boards are used for such purposes. If the ceiling is crooked and the ceilings have differences in levels, it needs to be leveled.
- The next step in the work will be laying thermal insulation; it will retain heat in the room and will not allow cold air flows from the roof or interfloor ceiling to pass through. This is especially true for the cladding of the first floor in apartments. Mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used as insulation.
- After installing the thermal insulation, an additional layer of vapor barrier is laid. Today, there are many materials that can be used to provide natural air exchange to structures, but the main one is considered to be membrane polyethylene.
- The final stage is the construction of a rough base. The covering is sheathed with plywood or corrugated sheets.
If the work is carried out in a private house, then the finishing should be done taking into account the functional purpose of the attic. In many buildings it can serve as a residential attic, or simply act as a non-residential space. For an attic that will house a full-sized room, it is necessary to add aluminum foil to the floor layer; it will help avoid heat loss in the house. In addition, when decorating the attic, a layer of sound insulation consisting of sawdust and mineral wool is laid.
A ceiling covered in this way should not only be beautiful, but also maintain the microclimate of the room. The aesthetic appearance of the entire structure will depend on the correct installation of the finishing coating. Therefore, work must be done slowly and adhere to all cladding technologies. To simplify installation, it is recommended to first draw up a ceiling diagram and indicate in it the installation of heat, steam and sound insulation.
Raising a house where to start
But if none of the above methods suits you according to the design features of the house, all that remains is to raise the entire house and then lower the floor level. This type of work needs to be taken quite seriously:
Study the whole house system.
If there is a stove in the house, pay great attention to cutting the pipe. By raising the house, you simultaneously raise the entire ceiling, and therefore the cutting needs to be dismantled. Next you need to determine the approximate weight of the entire structure. When calculating the weight of a wooden house, look at the moisture level of the wood. It is also considered very important what kind of wood your house is built from.
We calculate the weight
Below we provide important indicators of the weight of m3 of different wood. Wood Weight m3 kilogram. Oak 1020 Maple 862 Aspen 793 Larch 833 Aspen 762 Ash 924 Alder 800
But since pine and spruce are considered important building materials, we separately list their weight per m3. At the same time, we give two indicators at once according to these materials with different degrees of drying. No. Name Weight m3 per kilogram. 1 Raw pine 890 2 Raw spruce 790 3 Dry pine 470 4 Dry spruce 450
As can be seen from the above data, the difference is significant.
Our advice is that if you are in doubt about the degree of drying of wood, it is better to take into account the weight limits. With this option, you definitely won't have any problems lifting.
Jacks – too much is not always good
Next we will need jacks. Sometimes it is recommended to use several jacks with a lifting capacity of 5 tons. Using several jacks in parallel will greatly increase the lifting speed and eliminate possible damage to the facing part of the structure. But we recommend that you do things differently and here’s why. Knowing the reality of our life, we doubt that it is not often that anyone will find 4 or 5 similar, serviceable jacks at once, and purchasing them will be an unjustified expense in financial terms. In addition, the cost of them is not so small. When raising a house in the same way, you expect that they will all work very reliably and will not let you down at the most serious moment. But if your hopes are not met, this leads to sad consequences. In addition, installing several lifting devices in parallel increases the possibility that a house on jacks may move to the side.
One jack – the right lift
Lifting with one jack
Unfortunately, this is a reality of life. And therefore we recommend that you take one, but powerful jack:
- Of course, an excellent option would be to use a jack with a lifting capacity of 10 tons, but if this is not possible, you can use a five-ton one.
- The most important thing is not to rush and raise the building as equally as possible, no more than 50 mm per pass.
- In this option, there will be no violations associated with deformation.
- After lifting one side, insert wood wedges of appropriate thickness and move on to the next side.
- When you have made the first pass on all sides, continue climbing further.
Installing wedges - we do it precisely
Just do not place loose wedges under the raised system. Better do this:
- Immediately determine to what height you are going to raise your house
- Set the number of points at which you will climb.
- Set a specific distance to which the lift will be performed in one pass.
- Divide this value by the total lift height.
- Make the required number of wedges for any passage of appropriate thickness.
- If the wedges are made up of several parts, they must be firmly knocked together.
- If a leak in the jack is detected during work, work must be stopped and continued only after replacing the faulty tool.
ATTENTION! - Remember, following these tips is considered to be the key to the safety of people and your safety of those present next to you. Once the house is raised to the required height, you can add the required number of crowns and lower the house. Once the house is raised to the required height, you can add the required number of crowns and lower the house
Once the house is raised to the required height, you can add the required number of crowns and lower the house.
Stretch ceiling
With the help of suspended ceilings, you can completely close the beams or niches between them, while the structures are fastened to the walls. Stretch ceilings are distinguished by a wealth of textures, shades and shapes; they allow you to install built-in lamps and hide ceiling defects. You can use them in combination with other types of finishes.
With the help of suspended ceilings you can completely close the beams or niches between them
It is not easy to install suspended ceilings yourself, so for high-quality finishing it is better to seek the help of professionals. They will help you choose material and design, as well as install lighting.
Important! When installing suspended ceilings, it is necessary to ensure ventilation of the under-ceiling space, otherwise condensation may occur. Advantages of suspended ceilings:
Advantages of suspended ceilings:
- richness of textures, shades and shapes;
- durability and strength;
- the material is not afraid of moisture and leaks;
- does not require painting or finishing, washes well;
- goes well with types of finishes.
- quite expensive material;
- installation requires skills and special equipment.
Ceiling tiles
The cheapest, but short-lived option. The tiles are lightweight and easy to install using glue, but due to their small size they may require the installation of additional sheathing.
Important! Ceiling tiles burn well, while emitting toxic substances and acrid smoke. It cannot be used in homes with stove heating!
- light weight;
- low price;
- not afraid of water;
- easy installation.
- fire hazard;
- breaks easily;
- looks pretty cheap.
Lighting Features
Wooden surfaces absorb light, so in addition to a general diffuser, lighting of the walls and ceiling is needed. Fabric and ceramic lampshades, bus systems, chandeliers with forged parts, and wooden elements are combined with wood. There are many lighting options; the house will not resemble a modest village hut. To illuminate paintings and decorative elements, you can install halogen spotlights. There are no windows in the hallway so that the room is not dark; pendant lamps and sconces are installed. To visually increase the space, choose chandeliers with shades upward. In the kitchen, fluorescent lamps are installed in the work area. Frosted lamps are used to create a pleasant atmosphere around the dining table. Diffusive, relaxing lighting is created in the bedroom, and sconces are installed for reading.
When installing wiring, you need to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit:
Strengthening vaulted ceilings
The group provides services for strengthening vaulted ceilings with high quality and on time. We work at sites in Voronezh, Voronezh region and regions of the Central Federal District. The services provided are guaranteed for 5 years!
Floors that are formed by joining inclined and arched surfaces are called vaults and are functionally different from ordinary floors. The load on the vaults operates according to the principle of compression and extends to the supporting structures and horizontal thrust (if any). Precise design and professional installation of vaulted ceilings prevent them from collapsing, but sometimes even the strongest vault can become deformed.
In this case, OPORA Group of Companies will come to the rescue, providing its services in Voronezh and the regions of the Central Federal District. The company’s specialists will easily carry out high-quality repairs of any complexity to strengthen the ceiling, using innovative technology based on working with composite materials.
Since the type of repair work depends on what type of deformation the vault is undergoing, at the first stage the nature of the damage is determined and a restoration plan is drawn up based on observations.
Damage typical of vaulted ceilings
The list of damage typical for vaulted ceilings includes:
- cracks;
- loose or falling fragments of brick or stone masonry;
- loss of integrity of masonry mortar.
How to repair a damaged vault and strengthen it?
Regardless of whether the vault is made of brick or stone, the process of its restoration and strengthening is carried out in several stages:
- First of all, the arched vault is cleaned of all kinds of dirt, cement laitance and loose fragments of masonry. To speed up the work and to remove serious contamination, water or sandblasting is used, but steel brushes and a grinder can often be used. Slots and cracks are cleaned by blowing with a stream of compressed air.
- After treatment, the stage of eliminating cracks begins by injecting cement mortar or epoxy resin. The filling composition is selected in accordance with the degree of damage to the arch and the width of the cracks. Anchors are installed, stone or brickwork is repaired, after which all voids are filled with masonry mortar.
- The repair work is followed by the process of strengthening the vault, the methodology for which may vary.
Methods for strengthening the arch
The two most common and simple methods are most often used.
The first method is based on strengthening the ceilings of the vault. This technique involves installing a carbon mesh on a polymer cement solution. This design has a high tensile load-bearing capacity and, despite its strength, remains vapor-permeable for subsequent brickwork. The linear expansion of the composite material is also similar to the expansion of real masonry.
Before installing the reinforcing mesh, a calculation is made to determine the required amount of material and the number of layers, the location of which on the masonry is also included in the calculations. The mesh is securely attached to the masonry and prevents subsequent loosening and falling out of the bricks, at the same time it works in tension when installed on the top of the vault.
The second method involves gunning the structure using a special concrete mortar consisting of cement and hard quartz sand. Shotcrete is the process of mechanized application under pressure of a mixture of air and concrete solution onto the surface to be repaired.
Shotcrete can be applied either wet or dry. Since the shotcrete method depends on the scale of the work being carried out and its specifics, large areas are processed using the wet method, and small areas - using the dry method. Often, when strengthening vaulted floors, the method of dry application of shotcrete is used, since this method has a number of advantages:
- High degree of adhesion to concrete.
- Possibility of stage-by-stage treatment of the surface with gunite (the wet method requires continuous application of concrete mixture to the walls).
- The quality of processing of the repaired surfaces is guaranteed to be high, which allows you to recreate the coating with any required level of strength.
- The ease of operation of the equipment (the hose practically does not become clogged with the dry mixture and, if necessary, can be easily blown out with a stream of compressed air) ensures fast and high-quality work by the craftsmen.
To carry out this manipulation, the working surface is first marked with a “grid”, after which holes are drilled in the arch for the reinforcement and concrete is applied to the already reinforced surface. Thanks to application technology, concrete imitates the texture of real masonry.
Prices for work, terms, guarantee
The price and nature of repair operations, as well as the timing of their implementation, vary from order to order, since the individual is determined after inspecting the object. OPORA Group of Companies, thanks to its individual approach, performs its work with high quality, which is why the company provides a guarantee for a period of 5 years.
You can order the service at any time by contacting the manager in a way convenient for the client: telephone, email are listed on the website page in contacts. Payment after drawing up an estimate with a detailed list of work, the company’s obligations and phased deadlines for repairs. Contact us!
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Dismantling the formwork, finishing the vault to the desired condition
The formwork can be dismantled the very next day. To do this, you first need to knock out the cushions of the support posts, as a result of which the oriented strand boards will lower slightly. After this, you can pull out the slats supporting the brick one by one. The plywood arches themselves should be removed last.
There is no need to be afraid that the solution did not have time to dry completely in 12–15 hours. During this time, it gains the strength necessary to maintain it, and then the laws of physics begin to work. It turns out that the stronger the arch pulls down, the stronger the brick holds. This is such nonsense.
PHOTO: YouTube.com First you need to knock out the pillows from under the racks and dismantle the supports
PHOTO: YouTube.com The next step is to remove the lath from under the brick and dismantle the plywood arches
Laying bricks on slatted formwork
Before laying, each brick must be slightly trimmed and chamfered. When laying between the bricks, you need to place a round rod. It will not only prevent the solution from flowing down, but will also simplify the subsequent jointing, and therefore reduce the time.
PHOTO: YouTube.com A steel bar should be installed between the bricks and then removed
The steel rod can be removed after the mortar has been applied and the brick has not yet taken its place. Otherwise, it can be removed only after dismantling the formwork. The question arises, where, in this case, to collect rods for all the seams?
PHOTO: YouTube.comThe main thing is not to forget to remove the metal bar in time
When the two sides of the arch are ready (the arch closes last in the middle), it is necessary to make a marking on the wall along which the remaining brick will be placed. It is better to make the gaps between the bricks a little larger than to break them lengthwise. But you shouldn’t make the gaps too wide either. We'll have to look for a middle ground.
The following can be said about the solution. If the master is confident that he will complete all the work in one day, then the solution is best mixed with five hundredth cement, in a ratio of 1/5.
PHOTO: YouTube.com In the middle, it makes sense to make markings for each row of bricks so that the surface is uniform and even.
Ideally, the first part of laying bricks should look like this - in the middle one third is not closed, two thirds on different sides are finished. Further work will need to be done a little differently. Laying should be carried out not along the arches, but across them, laying the bricks in a wedge. At first it may seem too complicated, but after laying two or three rows everything becomes easier. It was not for nothing that old people said that the eyes are afraid, but the hands do.
A small digression. Don't be afraid to start new jobs. The main thing is to collect as much information about them as possible. And if a master has golden hands, then he is capable of any task. It is clear that at first the work may progress very slowly, but over time the skill will come, and with it the speed of execution.
