How to properly bleed air from a heating battery

The appearance of air pockets in the heating system is accompanied by uneven heating of devices and alarming noise in the pipeline. The coolant moves jerkily along the circuit, increasing the likelihood of water hammer. Agree, any sensible owner would like to exclude these phenomena.

The listed negatives can be eliminated and prevented by a simple action - removing air pockets from the heating system. How to do it? How to correctly assemble the circuit, what devices should be installed so that the air is removed in a timely manner, you will learn from our proposed article.

The information presented for review is based on regulatory documentation. We have described all possible methods used against the formation of air jams. To optimize perception, the material is supplemented with photo selections, diagrams, and videos.

Reasons for airing the system

There are several fairly common reasons that provoke the appearance of an air lock inside heating structures:

• depressurization that occurred during scheduled maintenance or repair work;
• improper flushing or pressure testing of the system followed by filling the water circuit with standard coolant;
• local violation of the integrity of pipelines and radiator batteries under negative external influences or as a result of maintenance and operating errors;
• in private households - the absence of a sufficient pipe slope and expansion tank in the installed system;
• reduced pressure level in the water supply system, filling the resulting voids with air;
• faulty condition of air intake elements;
• connection to the heating structure of a “warm floor” system with pipes of different heights;
• air suction through leaky seam joints and joint areas;
• low quality coolant, oversaturation with gases;
• replenishing the volume of thermal fluid by adding cold tap water.

One of the most common problems is the presence of errors and errors at the stage of creating design documentation or installing pipework.

Why does air appear in the heating system?

There can be many reasons, here are just the main ones:

• The coolant contains dissolved air, which is released when heated. To a greater extent, this applies to systems where ordinary tap water, containing a large amount of dissolved oxygen, is used as a coolant. When the coolant is heated, oxygen separates, forming many small bubbles, which create an air lock;
• The heating circuit was filled with coolant too quickly, as a result of which it was not possible to bleed off all the air. The heating system should be filled slowly (on average 1 floor - 1 hour), especially if it is an extended system with a large number of components;
• The required pipe slopes were not observed;

Automatic air vent in the mine.

• Air locks always form after repair work. Repair or replacement of radiators, replacement of fittings, etc. — all this leads to airing of the heating system;
• Low pressure in the system can lead to an increase in the amount of compressed air, which will also create air locks;
• The air vent is out of order or faulty;
• A leak in the heating system can also cause blockages;
• Oxygen permeability of heating pipes. To a greater extent, this applies to polymer pipes (except those with anti-diffusion coating), the walls of which allow oxygen into the system.
• Sometimes air accumulates in the corners of the pipeline. This indicates an installation error: individual sections of pipes were not installed level. In such a situation, it is best to cut a tee into the problem area to install an air vent;
• Some low-quality aluminum batteries react with water, as a result of which air pockets will constantly form. In such a situation, we can recommend one thing: to use only high-quality heating devices, and not to choose something cheaper. It is recommended to replace a cheap device with a new one of better quality.

Air vent with Danfoss ball valve on the technical floor of the hotel.

Note! In multi-storey buildings, air locks most often form in apartments on the top floors, because air always “strives” to the upper sections of the heating system.

Installing air release valves

To remove air from heating, air vents are installed on radiators - manual and automatic air valves. They are called differently: bleeder, air vent, bleeder or air valve, air vent, etc. The essence does not change from this.

Mayevsky air valve

This is a small device for manually bleeding air from heating radiators. It is installed in the upper free radiator manifold. There are different diameters for different collector sections.

Manual air vent - Mayevsky tap

It is a metal disk with a conical through hole. This hole is closed with a cone-shaped screw. By unscrewing the screw a few turns, we allow the air to escape from the radiator.

Device for removing air from radiators

To facilitate air outlet, an additional hole was made perpendicular to the main channel. The air actually comes out through it. When deflating using a Mayevsky tap, point this hole upward. After this you can unscrew the screw. Unscrew it a few turns, but do not unscrew it too much. After the hissing stops, return the screw to its original position and move on to the next radiator.

When starting the system, it may be necessary to bypass all the air collectors several times until air stops escaping altogether. After this, the radiators should heat up evenly.

Automatic air release valve

These small devices are installed both on radiators and at other points in the system. They differ in that they allow you to bleed air in the heating system automatically. To understand the principle of operation, consider the structure of one of the automatic air valves.

The operating principle of the automatic release is as follows:

• In normal condition, the coolant fills the chamber by 70 percent. The float is at the top, pressing the rod.
• When air enters the chamber, the coolant is forced out of the housing and the float lowers.
• He presses the protrusion-flag on the nozzle, squeezing it out.
• The depressed jet opens a small gap, which is enough to allow the air that has accumulated in the upper part of the chamber to escape.
• As water comes out, the air vent body fills with water.
• The float rises, releasing the rod. It returns to its place due to the spring.

Various designs of automatic air valves operate on this principle. They can be straight or angular. They are placed at the highest points of the system and are present in the security group. They can be installed in identified problem areas - where the pipeline has an incorrect slope, which is why air accumulates there.

Instead of Mayevsky's manual taps, you can install an automatic drain for radiators. It is only slightly larger in size, but works automatically.

Automatic air release valve

Cleaning from salts

The main problem with automatic valves for venting air from the heating system is that the air outlet hole is often overgrown with salt crystals. In this case, either the air does not come out or the valve begins to “cry”. In any case, you need to remove it and clean it.

Automatic air vent disassembled

So that this can be done without stopping the heating, automatic air valves are installed in pairs with non-return valves. The check valve is installed first, followed by the air valve. If necessary, the automatic air collector for the heating system is simply unscrewed, disassembled (unscrew the lid), cleaned and reassembled. After this, the device is again ready to bleed air from the heating system.

Stub

It is not an easy task to bleed air from a heating battery if there is no air vent and a plug is installed instead. Before starting work, you should block the coolant access to the radiator.

Modern sectional batteries are equipped with top plugs. There is no need to completely remove the fitting. It is enough to carefully turn it slowly, making several turns, and wait until the air comes out. First, all adjacent surfaces should be protected with rags.

It is more difficult to ventilate an old cast-iron radiator, since usually the plug on it is securely fixed with tow and paint. Algorithm of actions:

1. Apply a little solvent to the connection between the fitting and the battery. Wait 10-20 minutes.
2. Place a bucket under the hole. Place rags on the floor.
3. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the plug (not completely) until air begins to escape.
4. Wrap the thread with sealing material and tighten the plug.

Bleeding air from an old cast iron radiator may require more effort

It is important to do everything carefully. If you do not turn off the water and remove the fitting completely, hot water under pressure will flow out of the hole.

You can determine that the air lock has been eliminated by assessing the temperature of the batteries. Sections that were previously cold should warm up.

Tap

Many old batteries have regular water taps. When you unscrew the valve, water begins to flow from the hole, and with it the accumulated air comes out. You may need to drain several buckets of liquid to remove all the excess gas.

To make the work easier, it is advisable to use a long flexible hose: attach one end to the tap, and lower the other end into the toilet. The valve must be opened as much as possible to ensure a high flow rate of water.

Causes of excess air

There are many reasons for the appearance of air; it is quite difficult to completely avoid this phenomenon. Still, the factors that cause air pockets to form in the heating system should be studied in order to minimize their impact on the system.

Most often, air enters the system:

• if the heating was initially installed incorrectly;
• if the rules for filling the heating circuit with water are not followed;
• if the tightness of the connection of individual elements of the system is broken;
• when the system lacks or incorrectly uses air exhaust devices;
• after repair work;
• when replacing the lost volume of coolant with cold water.

Improper installation of the heating system leads to its airing in cases where the pipes are laid with an incorrect slope, form loops, etc. It is best to track such areas at the design stage of autonomous heating.

Filling the circuit with water should be done according to the principle: the larger the volume of coolant, the lower the rate of its entry into the system. If water enters too quickly, in certain areas it can become a spontaneous version of the water seal, preventing the natural process of displacing air from the circuit.

Leaks often occur at the junctions of pipes and radiators. Sometimes the crack is so small that the water escaping from it evaporates almost immediately. The hole remains unnoticed, and air gradually penetrates through it, replacing the lost volume of water.

A small gap through which water flows out can cause air to enter the heating circuit and form an air lock.

Since in one way or another the circuit may still become air-filled, when designing the heating system, it is necessary to provide for the installation of special devices designed to bleed air from the heating system. If you already have such air vents, but they do not give the desired effect, some of them may be broken and require replacement.

It also happens that air removal devices are ineffective due to their incorrect installation or insufficient quantity. It is inevitable that air will enter the system after it is repaired. In this case, it will be necessary to carry out de-airing measures.

Air dissolved in water enters the heating system while the circuit is filling. When heated, it is released in the form of small bubbles, from which an air plug is formed.

If part of the coolant volume is lost, it must be replenished. Fresh water, unlike what is already in the system, contains a certain amount of air dissolved in it. When heated, it releases in the form of small bubbles and accumulates, forming plugs.

If fresh coolant has been added to the system, after a while it will not hurt to make sure that it is not air-filled anywhere.

How to understand that the battery is airy

Signs of air locks appear immediately. Here you don’t need to be a great specialist to understand that it is necessary to get rid of air in the heating radiator by bleeding it.

Cold areas of the battery indicate the presence of air.

You can recognize the airing of the heating by the following signs:

1. Air serves as a kind of heat insulator. In the place where it accumulates inside the battery, the sections are not heated by the coolant. The areas can be easily identified by touching the radiator with the palm of your hand.
2. The presence of air will be indicated by gurgling in the radiators when the heating is on.
3. Autonomous heating of a closed type is equipped with a pressure gauge. If the measuring device shows a drop in pressure in the system, then it does not occur without a special reason. Probably, a leak appeared somewhere due to depressurization of the unit. Naturally, as the coolant flows out, air penetrates into the system.

If one of the reasons appears, you need to bleed the air from the radiator in the apartment, after which the heating will be restored.

Important! The reason for the battery cooling may be that one of the supply pipes is clogged with rust or dirt. If, when draining from the Mayevsky tap, a strong stream of water flows without pops of air, then the problem is not airing.

Signs of airing

Airing leads to inefficient operation of the heating system, as a result of which unnecessary resources are spent on heating the coolant. This leads to unjustified financial expenses and can significantly affect the family budget during the cold season. Signals if the heating system is airy are the following:

• No heating of heat exchangers. Air in the heating circuit in the form of a plug prevents the coolant from passing through the pipes, as a result of which it does not flow to the radiators or into the underfloor heating pipeline. If air gets into the supply pipes, the radiators and floors remain cold when the boiler is operating at full power.
• Uneven heating of radiators. If there is air in the heating radiators, one of its parts will have a lower temperature, which can be easily determined by touching the surface of the sections with your palm.
• Increased noise. The movement of coolant in a pipeline circuit with air pockets is often accompanied by noise, which causes the movement of microbubbles.
• Vibrations. An increased concentration of air in the coolant leads to an acceleration of oxidative processes due to the oxygen contained in it, accompanied by the decomposition of metals with the formation of salts and carbon dioxide. Periodic emissions of insoluble metal oxides and carbon dioxide into the coolant can cause vibration processes in pipes.

Rice.
2 Air-filled radiators in a thermal imager Date: September 25, 2021

The danger of air jams

Such air congestion significantly reduces the heating efficiency of heating devices, which negatively affects the overall temperature in the apartment.

The most obvious sign of a traffic jam is gurgling, knocking, or babbling in the pipes when water is poured into the heating pipes. For owners of private houses with heating boilers, if you hear such sounds, bleed the air from the radiators, otherwise this will lead to damage to the boiler. If the heating of the battery surface is uneven, lightly tap the battery surface with a metal object. In those places where air accumulates, the sound of the impact will be loud and resonant.

Prolonged contact between the battery metal and the air inside leads to corrosive deposits, which will then cause the device to fail. These are the main reasons why it is advised to bleed the air from the battery as quickly as possible.

Signs and consequences of an airy system

If the boiler unit is working properly, the supply temperature of the coolant is normal, but the battery cannot cope with heating the room, check the presence of air in the heating system. Air pockets in radiators are a common occurrence; their presence is indicated by uneven heating of the device when the upper part remains cold. Airiness of the battery at first slightly reduces its heat transfer, but if the problem is not solved in time, the accumulated gas will block the path of the coolant and the room will not receive full heating.

Air bubbles interfere with the free movement of the coolant due to the narrowing of the channel, and this provokes the appearance of specific sound effects. Signs of a traffic jam include noise in the pipes, bubbling, and seething. In difficult cases, pipe vibration is also added.

Airing the heating system

Small air bubbles that have not yet formed a plug, but are already actively released from the coolant, turn it into a water-air mixture. It is dangerous for a circulation pump that is not equipped to pump gas. Sliding bearings are installed on the shaft of the pump unit, which must be located in a liquid medium. High air content in the coolant leads to premature wear of elements due to the effect of dry friction.

If you do not bleed air from the heating system, its excess in the coolant can lead to stoppage or breakdown of the circulation pump

. This is dangerous for solid fuel boilers that are not equipped with automation: when the circulation stops, cooled coolant will no longer flow into the water jacket of the boiler. Overheating and boiling of liquid in a confined space threatens to explode if the safety group does not work.

Knowing how to remove air from a heating system, you can deal with air lenses in radiators made from materials prone to corrosion and overgrowth. The air contains carbon dioxide and oxygen, and they contribute to the breakdown of calcium and magnesium salts that are dissolved in water. The reaction proceeds with the release of carbon dioxide. Under the influence of high temperatures, hydrocarbonate compounds form a layer of limescale, and carbon dioxide promotes corrosion of metal surfaces. As a result, the battery deteriorates faster.

Accumulated dirt in the heating system contributes to radiator failure

To avoid unpleasant consequences when starting the heating system at home after the summer break, you should check it for air pockets. If it is airy, quickly take measures to eliminate the problem.

Heating system without air locks

To ensure that air in an individual heating system does not accumulate in problem areas, but goes outside, it is necessary:

• correctly design and install the pipeline, correctly install radiators;
• use automatic and manual air vents.

Let's look at how to expel air from a heating system with natural circulation and top wiring

When arranging a pipeline, it is important to maintain an inclination angle at which air bubbles move freely upward, to the highest point of the circuit, without accumulating at turns and flat areas. At the highest point of such a system, an open-type expansion tank must be installed, through which air bubbles enter the atmosphere

Bleeding air from the heating system using an automatic air vent

To bleed air from a system with forced movement of coolant or a gravity system with bottom wiring, a different principle is used

. Return pipelines are installed at a slope (this simplifies draining liquid from the system), and at the top point of all individual circuits, automatic valves are installed through which air is discharged as it accumulates.

In addition to automatic air vents, the system also uses manual Mayevsky valves. Such air vents are mounted on heating radiators - on the upper pipe on the opposite side of the pipe supplying the heated coolant. To ensure that air enters the valve and does not accumulate in the upper radiator manifold, it is recommended to install the heating device at a slight angle. Air release is performed manually as needed.

How to find an air lock?

Ideally, the system independently copes with airing thanks to automatic valves through which air is released. If you discover that a particular heating device or part of the circuit is not working properly, you need to find the place where the air has accumulated.

Touch the radiator - if its upper part is colder than the lower part, it means that coolant is not flowing there. To release air, open the Mayevsky valve installed on a steel, aluminum or bimetallic radiator, or the valve valve mounted on cast iron batteries.

How to determine the air lock in the battery

You can also determine the place of airing by sound - under normal conditions, the coolant moves almost silently, extraneous gurgling and sounds of overflow occur due to an obstacle in the flow.

Metal pipes and heating appliances are tapped with light blows - in places where air accumulates, the sound is noticeably louder.

Getting rid of the airlock

If there are manual air vents on radiators, there are no problems with how to remove air from the batteries. Using a screwdriver or a standard wrench, the stem of the Mayevsky tap is slightly unscrewed, and a suitable container is placed under the drain hole (a half-liter glass jar is enough). Bleeding air from the heating system using a manual air vent is accompanied by hissing and whistling, then splashes appear, after which the coolant begins to flow in a thin stream. At this stage, the Mayevsky tap should be closed.

To remove an air lock from the heating system if it has accumulated away from the air vent (manual or automatic), proceed as follows

:

1. Open the air tap or valve closest to the air bubble.
2. They begin to gradually replenish the system with coolant so that the liquid, due to an increase in volume, displaces the air bubble towards the open air vent.

Automatic air vent valve with corner connection
What to do in difficult cases when adding more coolant volume does not remove the plug? In such a situation, in addition to increasing the amount of coolant, it is necessary to add pressure, heating the liquid to critical temperatures. You should act extremely carefully so as not to be scalded by the splashes that accompany the release of air through the automatic valve.

Some nuances

There are situations when craftsmen, when installing a heating system, do not install special valves to release excess air.
Let's look at how to bleed air from a heating battery in this case. To work, you will need an adjustable or gas wrench. Use it to unscrew the plug. This needs to be done very slowly. Sometimes the plug won't come off. Most often this happens if the battery is cast iron. In this case, you need to apply a special lubricant to the threads and try again after some time. When the plug is unscrewed, the same algorithm of actions is performed as with a regular tap. When the plug is screwed into place, you must remember to wrap either FUM tape or flax around the thread. This will avoid leaks and make the connection tight.

This container is always located at the highest point of the heating system. When the water is drained, you need to wait a little and then unscrew the tap on the expansion tank. Usually, when the battery temperature rises, the plug comes out on its own. If such actions are unsuccessful, then the water in the circuit should be brought to a boil. In this case, the plug will definitely come out.

How often should I bleed?

Knowing how to bleed air from a heating system can prevent and solve many problems.
But how often should such a procedure be carried out for preventive purposes? As a rule, this should be done at the beginning of the heating season. Twice is enough (the first time for checking, the second for control). Of course, if the system has defects or is faulty, then the number of descents may be greater. If the apartment has aluminum radiators, then before starting the system it is necessary to drain the water. This will help increase battery life significantly.

Where does the air in the system come from?

Practice shows that it is impossible to ideally isolate a water heating network from the external environment. Air penetrates the coolant in various ways and gradually accumulates in certain places - the upper corners of the batteries, turns of highways and highest points. By the way, the latter should be equipped with automatic bleed valves shown in the photo (air vents).

Types of automatic air vents

Air enters the heating system in the following ways:

1. Along with water. It's no secret that most homeowners replenish the lack of coolant directly from the water supply. And from there comes water saturated with dissolved oxygen.
2. As a result of chemical reactions. Again, water that is not properly demineralized reacts with the metal and aluminum alloy of the radiators, releasing oxygen.
3. The pipeline network of a private house was initially designed or installed with errors - there are no slopes and loops are made that face upward and are not equipped with automatic valves. It is difficult to remove air accumulations from such places even at the stage of filling with coolant.
4. A small amount of oxygen penetrates the walls of plastic pipes, despite the special layer (oxygen barrier).
5. As a result of repairs with dismantling of pipeline fittings and partial or complete drainage of water.
6. When microcracks appear in the rubber membrane of the expansion tank.

When cracks occur in the membrane, gas mixes with water

Note. Water taken from wells and shallow wells is prone to chemical reactions, since it is saturated with active salts of magnesium and calcium.

Also, a situation often arises when, after a long period of inactivity during the off-season, the pressure in a closed heating system decreases due to air ingress. Draining it is quite simple: you just need to add a couple of liters of water. A similar effect occurs in open-type systems if you stop the boiler and circulation pump, wait a couple of days and start the heating again. As the liquid cools, it contracts, allowing air to enter the lines.

As for the centralized heat supply systems of apartment buildings, air penetrates into them exclusively along with the coolant or when the network is filled at the beginning of the season. How to deal with this - read below.

Example from practice. It was necessary to remove air pockets from the open heating system every day due to a completely clogged mud trap. A working pump created a vacuum in front of itself and thus drew oxygen into the pipelines through the slightest leaks.

The thermal image shows the area of ​​the heating device where an air bubble usually lingers.

Preventing the formation of air pockets

You can avoid the appearance of air in the heating system even at the very initial stage of its startup. To do this, it is necessary to correctly fill the pipes and batteries with coolant. In open systems this is done in the following way:

• We open all the valves to ensure unhindered movement of the coolant;
• Leave the drain valve closed;
• We begin to carefully fill the system with water.

Please note that the pressure is not very high. When filling a closed heating system, bleed air in the following way:

When filling a closed heating system, bleed air in the following way:

• We connect a pressure test pump, which allows pumping stable pressure in the heating;
• Close the taps on the radiators;
• We are waiting for the system to fill up.

Despite its apparent simplicity, the Mayevsky crane is an extremely effective tool that perfectly performs the task.

Now you need to fill the batteries with water and get rid of the air using Mayevsky taps. We sequentially go around all the heating devices, carefully open the valves, let in the coolant, remove air masses using the above taps, after which we close the valves. The pressure in the pipes must be maintained at one atmosphere, so it is more convenient to perform the operation together. At the final stage of work, we turn on the heating, wait until the set temperature is reached, and then repeat the procedure with the batteries.

Good radiators, for example, steel or bimetallic, will help prevent the appearance of air in the heating - in them the likelihood of air jams forming is reduced to almost zero

When carrying out installation work, it is necessary to pay attention to tightness, carefully and completely tightening all connecting parts. It is also recommended to install automatic or manual air vents.

One of the air vents is installed at the highest point, since air in radiators and pipes tends to accumulate in the upper parts of heating systems.

Filling the system correctly

The easiest way is to pump water or antifreeze into pipelines connected to an open expansion tank. To do this, you need to open all the valves (except for the drain) and, by attaching a hose to the make-up fitting, fill the lines and radiators with coolant. In this matter, it is important to take your time and allow the air to leave the system on its own through the expansion tank.

Advice. After filling, turn on the circulation pump and boiler, and then warm up all heating devices. Then release the remaining air from them through the Mayevsky taps. Do not forget to bleed the pump before starting, as described above.

Now about how to bleed air from the radiators and pipelines of a closed heating system in a private house. The proposed technique, constantly practiced by our expert, plumber Vitaly Dashko, is performed in the following order:

1. Open all shut-off valves of the main circuits (except for the drain).
2. Close all radiator valves, excluding the very last batteries at the ends of the loops, so that circulation occurs through them.
3. Get an assistant to do the work. Its task is to be in the boiler room and maintain the pressure in the network at a level of 1 bar using a pressure test pump or through a feed branch from the water supply.
4. After opening the water supply, fill the main lines, expansion tank and boiler tank. Air must be released through the safety group valve and air vent at the highest point (if equipped).
5. Go to the first radiator from the boiler and open both taps at the same time (slowly). Bleed the air through the Mayevsky valve and close the valves again. The assistant at this time does not allow the pressure to drop below 1 bar.
6. Repeat the operation on all batteries, then turn on the circulation pump and start the heat generator. When the lines begin to warm up, open all the radiator valves one by one and remove any remaining air from them again.

Important point. Before squeezing air plugs out of radiators, be sure to bleed the air from the circulation pump and turn it on for 5-10 minutes to bleed the pipelines.

After the heating devices have completely warmed up, the pressure in the system should be in the range of 1.3-1.6 Bar. At this point the procedure is considered complete. If the system contains heated floors, then they should be filled last, using the same algorithm (on cold floors!). That is, having pumped up the pressure in the main line, you need to alternately open and close the floor circuits, bleeding air through the manifold valves, and then warm up and adjust the coolant flow.

Cast iron batteries

The Mayevsky crane simplifies the work, but not all batteries have such a convenient device. For example, on cast iron versions you can often find a regular plug screwed onto tow and coated with paint. Removing it is problematic. Of course, you can visit the neighbors below or above, who have a Mayevsky tap on the radiator - this way you can gain access to the coolant. But this is not always possible.

We'll have to resort to the "old-fashioned" method. You will need a basin, a bucket and a lot of unnecessary rags. You don’t even have to try to unscrew the plug with your bare hands; you need to take an adjustable wrench. A paint thinner will also come in handy; the plug must have dried firmly over a long period of time. Then follow the instructions:

1. Apply solvent to the plug and wait twenty minutes.
2. Run along the thread with an adjustable wrench until the plug gives way. You should hear the sound of air escaping.
3. When the sound dies down, you need to wrap a new layer of “fumka” around the plug and insert it in its original place. If necessary, touch up the joint.

In order not to worry about heating the room in winter, you just need to promptly remove air pockets that interfere with the normal movement of the coolant. The result will be a warm, cozy atmosphere in the house even in the most severe frosts.

Correct option

To carry out a successful operation, an adjustable wrench is a must, as well as a basin and rags. You will need to purchase tow, FUM tape or sealant. It is imperative to shut off the coolant supply. The following steps are performed sequentially:

1. First, remove the tow, but first place a container under the radiator. If you can’t get to the tow right away, then remove (dissolve) the paint.
2. Carefully, slowly unscrew the plug. Any sudden movements or great efforts are avoided, because there is always a risk of breaking the thread.
3. If the element does not lend itself, then use a solvent or WD-40, a rust converter. The product is poured into the problem joint.
4. Then they pause: wait 5-10 minutes. Then they repeat the steps, also carefully. The operation is stopped when an extraneous sound appears.
5. After unscrewing the plug, the air masses begin to gradually bleed off, this process is always accompanied by hissing.
6. At the end of this stage, approximately 3-5 liters of water are drained. These actions will minimize the chance of encountering a traffic jam again.

Then the plug is screwed tightly again, having previously wound a new portion of tow. It can be replaced with more modern products - FUM tape. However, they believe that the best option is a combination of these materials. But the shrinking tape has a competitor: they often prefer to coat tow with sealant rather than wrap it with fumigation. For example, UNIPAK sealing paste.

After these manipulations, open the coolant supply valve. Since this method is very complicated, if you lack the skills, it is better to call a specialist, since a leak can be very expensive for the owners. Any master plumber, on the contrary, is well aware of how to bleed air from a battery.

Unsafe express method

If the radiator has been standing since “antediluvian” times, then it is quite possible that the owner will not be able to cope with unscrewing the plug on his own. In this case, some recommend an original method - drilling a hole in it.

To do this you will need a drill, a screwdriver and a metal drill (maximum diameter 4 mm). You also need to find a self-tapping screw; its diameter should be 1.5-2 mm larger than the hole. You will need a rubber gasket under it. To ensure the reliability of the “hot spot”, it is recommended to use a sealant.

The work itself is simple, but must be done quickly.

1. First, drill a hole, then carefully and slowly pull out the drill.
2. After this, the air will come out and water will begin to flow, quickly screw in the self-tapping screw with the gasket on it.

They say that pre-coating this structure with sealant guarantees almost one hundred percent reliability of the system. If the owner has a desire to test this “maximum”, then he is a person who is not afraid of possible consequences.

Reasons for stopping fluid circulation

Air trapped in the heating system interferes with the circulation of the coolant.

Ultimately, the home will not heat up as it should, fuel will be consumed in large quantities, and the worst thing that will happen in this case is the system will defrost.

Air in the heating main of a private house can accumulate in various places, this contributes to the cooling of both individual sections of the batteries and the riser as a whole.

Of course, air should not be in the heating system, it has no place there, you need to remove it from there in any way known and available to you.

Below we will try to understand this issue and consider the main reasons for this phenomenon.

• During the design process or at the installation stage, serious mistakes may have been made, which consisted of an incorrectly executed slope or the absence of Mayevsky cranes on all batteries and other imperfections.
• During repair work, air entered the disconnected system.
• There is insufficient pressure in the pipes , and this contributes to a decrease in the coolant level as a whole.
• The emergence of the “emulsion effect” .
  This is when a liquid substance is saturated with air bubbles in the first stages of its journey to the radiator, and then, once inside the pipeline, it is released there.

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About the certificate of conformity of steel, water and gas pipes, galvanized pipes is written on this page.

• Rapid filling of the system with water .
  The coolant should fill the line slowly. At the same time, it is necessary to release the air that has accumulated in the pipes during the summer downtime.
• Depressurization may have occurred pipeline at the welding points or in the area where the fitting is installed.
  In this case, the leak itself may not be noticeable, since the liquid from hot batteries quickly evaporates.

  And for air to get inside the pipe, all it takes is a miniature crack, which is sometimes not possible to notice visually.

• The devices through which air is taken in or removed may be faulty.
• Radiators of poor quality.
• A floor heating system is connected to the general heating main of the house; the pipes are mounted at the wrong level.

How can you tell if there is excess air in the system??

The following factors may indicate this:

• extraneous noise in heating radiators,
• low heat transfer,
• Radiators heat up unevenly
• in areas where there is air, the battery will be cold.

Such situations, unfortunately, occur quite often.

In a private house

Many houses have radiators with a Mayevsky tap, so when airing the system, you can use the same method as in an apartment building.
However, usually such devices are not available, which is why the only way is to drain through the expansion tank. Such a device is a mandatory element of any heating system in the house. It can be open or closed. The first option is easier to operate, and airing the system usually means lowering the water level in the tank. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to replenish the missing amount of fluid.

If the heating system has a closed tank, the only solution to the problem is to bleed air through the radiators. Before doing this, it is recommended to try to completely fill the system so that at least 10 liters of water flow out of the control pipe leaving the tank.

After this, you need to start the system again. If the problem persists, it is recommended to bleed air from the battery, following general recommendations. It is worth noting that in old-style heating systems, air may appear in the radiators during intensive operation of the heating boiler.

This is especially often observed when installing solid fuel models without a built-in thermostat. The water heats up excessively, begins to boil and pours out through the control pipe of the expansion tank. As a result, it becomes empty and, if there are cracks that break the tightness, air masses begin to enter the system. Then you can bleed the air using any of the listed methods, but before doing this, you need to eliminate the holes or cracks. Otherwise, the descent will have to be repeated regularly.

Top supply in an apartment building - how to release air

Buildings with a top spill have the following characteristics:

• The supply bottling is located on the technical floor, and the return bottling is in the basement;
• each riser is a jumper between them, disconnection is possible both from below and from above;
• the feeding bottling is done with a slight slope;
• at the very top there is an expansion device with a discharge outlet, while the discharge is often discharged through all floors to the elevator unit in the basement or at most close to it.

The function of the air vents is assigned to the vent on the expansion device. Thanks to the discharge to the basement, the start of heat supply in the fall is simplified.

Removing a plug in autonomous heating

A simple and effective method that allows you to quickly remove air from the system is to install an automatic air collector. The structure is located at the top point of the system. When necessary, it is opened and the air lock is removed.

The simplest means of de-airing is opening the air collector

Another way to bleed air is through an expansion tank . It is usually at the top. To eliminate air from the pipes, no additional actions are required - it rises and goes out on its own.

The air from the heating batteries is vented using a tap installed on the side of the radiator. You can also use a special device - the Mayevsky crane.

The final choice of deaeration method is influenced by the specifics of the project. In general, if the heating technology is followed, there should be no problems.

Prevention

To avoid problems with air locks, it is necessary to install air vents at each group of heating elements. So, for example, to remove air from the boiler, an automatic valve for removing gases is mounted directly on it. All collectors are also equipped with it. Mayevsky taps are installed on the radiators at the end.

If, after bleeding the air, the radiators still do not heat up well, the coolant should be completely drained. Since it is possible that there is too much dirt in the network, and it significantly reduces the circulation of fluid in the batteries.

Deaeration of a centralized system

In apartment buildings and the private sector, central heating is designed with air collectors. They are located at the top point. When the heating system is aired, just open the tap. When an air lock forms, opening the air collector allows air to rise through the pipes. Thus, the entire system is filled with water, and there are no plugs left.

In apartments, to ventilate the system you just need to open the tap

In an apartment or house, you can remove the blockage by bleeding the air in the place where it formed. For this purpose, batteries are equipped with taps. It must be borne in mind that it is unacceptable to install plumbing elements. Special valves called air vents are used . If the owner of the premises installs a water tap instead of an air vent and accidentally drains a certain amount of coolant from the system, he will have to pay a fine.

The vent is opened using a special key or a regular screwdriver. Extreme care must be taken, but even if everything is done correctly, it is possible that not only air will come out of the radiator, but water will also leak out.

Application of air separators

Somehow the opposite of the air intake described above, although in principle the same problems are solved. Separators are installed in the circuits of the main networks to remove air. They are designed to separate flows in the air, liquid and solid phases. How to remove air from the heating system in this case? To do this, it is enough to install a bypass block on the pipeline and build a separation block on it - a grid with a metal cylinder. As water passes through this device, air bubbles are captured by the flow and are then removed in the air intake. In addition, the collected sludge and other foreign solid inclusions of different fractions are directed to another drainage channel.

Design and operating principle of manual air valve

The needle manual air valve is also called a Mayevsky valve. His device:

• Brass body (plug) with external thread 1/2// or 3/4// for connection to the radiator. The case has two holes for air release Ø 2 mm - one at the end of the case, the second on the side wall;
• Brass locking screw. On one side of the screw there is a groove for a slotted screwdriver, on the other side the screw is machined into a cone that closes the air hole (the “closed” position);
• Plastic casing.

On sale you can find the so-called “faucet at hand”. To use it, you don’t need a key or a screwdriver—the plug can be easily unscrewed by hand.

To remove air from the housing, you need to unscrew the screw. To do this, you can, of course, use a screwdriver, but there are special keys that are most often included. After several revolutions, the screw cone comes out of the end hole and air enters the housing cavity, which is immediately released through the second side hole. The main thing is not to rush to turn off the tap. About 30 - 40% of the air should come out with water, so you need to stock up on time, a basin and rags. After the air has been released, the lost water must be added to the system.

Installation

Modern aluminum or bimetallic heating radiators already have a hole for installing a Mayevsky tap.
It can be found on the side opposite the coolant supply, from above. Most likely, there is already a nut for installation there. There is a plastic plug screwed into it. After its removal, an air valve is installed in this place. Before this, the tap threads must be sealed with a rubber or silicone gasket. Installing a Mayevsky crane on a cast iron battery is much more difficult. Let's start with the fact that these valves are much more powerful than those on aluminum radiators - they can withstand pressures of up to 16 atmospheres and temperatures of 150 C°. Sequencing:

1. Drain the water from the radiator;
2. Cut a hole in the top plug of the cast iron battery and cut a thread that matches the external thread of the air vent;
3. Screw in the Mayevsky tap;
4. Add water to the system.

Malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

If the faucet malfunctions, a leak appears. There may be several reasons for this:

• Manufacturing defects. One in fifty taps does not hold pressure at all. The only way out is replacement;
• The screw is too short. In this case, its conical part cannot completely block the hole, so you need to apply a certain force to screw the screw in until it stops;
• Solid particles of debris falling between the screw and the housing can damage the internal threads. Fum tape can help here once, but later you will still have to change the tap.

How to bleed air from old-style batteries

To this day, in the housing stock of Russia there are houses built a long time ago with batteries of the MS-140 model. In those days when these batteries were installed, they were equipped with ordinary water taps or simple bolts embedded in plugs with seals to bleed air.

The plugs are reset by simply opening these devices until a continuous stream of water appears without bubbles. If both devices are missing, remove the plugs by unscrewing the plugs, as described above.

Recommendations for selection

The most important recommendation is that you should not buy valves made in China. Almost all models of this origin are of dubious quality. The consequences of such savings can lead to the following:

1. In parallel with the air pockets, the device will leak liquid. This leads to a drop in pressure in the circuit, as well as to the appearance of leaks on the body, walls and floor.
2. A poor quality air vent may simply not work.
3. The coolant quickly renders all structural elements of the valve unusable.

With mechanical devices, this problem occurs much less frequently, since there is practically nothing to break in their design. These products are not some kind of complex equipment, so their cost is quite low. Even well-known manufacturers (for example, Valtec) provide products at an average price. Spirotech machines are also famous for their high quality characteristics. Basic tips for choosing:

1. It is better to buy a mechanical valve with a plastic or metal handle. This eliminates the need to fiddle with different wrenches or screwdrivers. It is convenient to use the device even in places where access is difficult.
2. If there are small children in the house, then it is advisable to install a regular manual faucet, designed for adjustment with a screwdriver. A child can unscrew the vent with a handle and get scalded by the coolant.
3. It is recommended to buy devices with an automatic cut-off.
4. 4. If your budget allows, you can purchase a device with additional functions. This makes operating the system more convenient.
5. The special anodized coating of the valve plays virtually no role. It only reduces the degree of metal corrosion.

On the market you can find combined designs that are also equipped with a vent. These include balancing valves, various shut-off valves, and circulation pumps. Most experts do not recommend using such products. It is better to purchase each part separately. The ROBOCAL valve is perfect for an ordinary apartment. It is designed for pressures up to 6 bar.

How to bleed air from different types of batteries

Based on the material of manufacture, space heating devices are divided into a number of types of batteries with their own characteristics of air bleed - these are radiators:

• aluminum;
• steel;
• bimetallic;
• cast iron;
• copper;

Aluminum

Heating devices made of aluminum are made by extrusion of molten metal. That is, liquid aluminum is pressed into the flask. The material of the radiators is quite soft and deforms at the slightest mechanical impact. For this reason, aluminum batteries are recommended to be installed in private houses with autonomous heating systems equipped with automatic air vents.

Steel

Batteries made of steel are very durable. Therefore, they easily tolerate the installation of both Mayevsky cranes and automatic machines. Sometimes both are replaced with thermostats.

Bimetallic

Radiators that have a steel body covered with aluminum alloy fins are most often equipped with Mayevsky taps. Bimetallic devices are installed in private mansions and apartment buildings. Depending on local heating conditions, the radiators are equipped with automatic air discharge devices.

Cast iron

The peculiarities of cast iron, as a brittle material, force one to be careful when choosing devices for releasing air pockets. Basically, as mentioned above, conventional taps or mortise bolt valves are used.

Copper

This expensive, but excellent in its thermal conductivity, metal requires delicate handling. For copper radiators, special devices are used, built on the principle of the Mayevsky tap. The condition for inserting devices made of the same metal as the radiator itself is met - copper.

All these features of installing devices for bleeding air from batteries made of various materials do not depend on their design, whether they are sectional, tubular, panel, plate or vacuum devices.

Prevention methods

In order not to constantly bleed air from the radiators, it is necessary to perform all actions correctly when starting the heating system. The open type of system provides for independent filling of pipes with coolant. To do this, open all the valves, ensuring the unhindered movement of water.

The pressure should not be too great. It is recommended to pay attention to the drain valve, which must be closed when filling the radiators. If the heating system is closed, the algorithm is slightly different. The first step is to close all the valves except the one that starts the water. Next, you should connect a pump that ensures stable pressure in the pipes. The next step is to fill the system with coolant. Only after this should you bleed air from the radiators using a Mayevsky tap.

Air in the radiator is a common problem in houses and apartments , preventing normal heating of the room. If you follow the recommendations of specialists, an ordinary person without professional skills can cope with it.

Filling the heating circuit with coolant

In order for the heating system to work correctly, it must be flushed and then refilled with water. It is often at this stage that air leaks into the circuit. This occurs due to incorrect actions while filling the contour. In particular, air can be trapped by too fast a flow of water, as mentioned earlier.

The diagram of the expansion tank of an open heating circuit allows you to get an idea of ​​​​the procedure for filling such a system with coolant after flushing

In addition, correct filling of the circuit also facilitates faster removal of that part of the air masses that are dissolved in the coolant. To begin with, it makes sense to consider an example of filling an open heating system, at the highest point of which the expansion tank is located.

Such a circuit should be filled with coolant starting from its very bottom. For these purposes, a shut-off valve is installed at the bottom of the system, through which tap water is supplied to the system.

A properly designed expansion tank has a special pipe that protects it from overflow.

A hose of such length should be attached to this pipe that its other end is brought out into the area and is located outside the house. Before you start filling the system, you should take care of the heating boiler. It is recommended to disconnect it from the system at this time so that the protective modules of this unit do not work.

Once these preparatory steps have been completed, you can begin filling the contour. The tap at the bottom of the circuit through which tap water flows is opened so that water fills the pipes very slowly.

The recommended filling flow rate should be approximately three times less than the maximum possible. This means that the tap should not be turned off completely, but only to one third of the pipe lumen

Slow filling is continued until water flows through the overflow hose leading outside. After this, the water tap should be closed. Now you should go through the entire system and open the Mayevsky valve on each radiator to bleed air.

Then you can reconnect the boiler to the heating system. It is also recommended to open these taps very slowly. While the boiler is filling with coolant, you can hear a hissing sound produced by the air release safety valve.

This is normal. After this, you need to add water to the system again at the same slow pace. The expansion tank should be approximately 60-70% full.

After this, it is necessary to check the operation of the heating system. The boiler is turned on and the heating system is warmed up. Radiators and pipes are then examined to identify areas where heating is missing or insufficient.

Insufficient heating indicates the presence of air in the heating radiators; it must be bled again through the Mayevsky taps. If the procedure for filling the heating circuit with coolant was successful, do not relax.

For at least another week, the operation of the system should be closely monitored, the water level in the expansion tank should be monitored, and the condition of pipes and radiators should be checked. This will allow problems to be quickly resolved.

In a similar way, closed-type systems are filled with coolant. Water should also be supplied to the system at low speed through a special tap.

You can fill a closed-type heating system with working fluid (coolant) on your own. It is important to arm yourself with a pressure gauge for this.

But in such systems, pressure control is an important point. When it reaches a level of two bars, you should turn off the water and bleed air from all radiators through the Mayevsky taps. At the same time, the pressure in the system will begin to decrease. It is necessary to gradually add coolant to the circuit to maintain the pressure at two bar.

It is difficult to perform both of these operations alone. Therefore, it is recommended to complete the filling of a closed contour together with an assistant. While one person bleeds air from the radiators, his partner monitors the pressure level in the system and immediately corrects it. Collaborative work will improve the quality of this type of work and reduce its time.

Advice from professionals

A few tips from professionals will help you safely ventilate the system and reduce the likelihood of blockages:

1. Always add water to the cooled autonomous heating circuit from the lowest point under low pressure. After topping up, turn on the boiler, heat the coolant to a temperature of 60 °C, and begin to bleed air from each battery through the Mayevsky valve. If necessary, after servicing all radiators, add more water to the system.
2. The rod from the Mayevsky tap cannot be completely unscrewed. It is difficult and often impossible to screw it back in under running hot water.
3. Unscrewing the radiator cap in an apartment is strictly prohibited. Central heating operates under high pressure. If the plug is torn off, all the apartments below will be flooded.

If problems arise with airing, it is best to call a specialist from a service organization who has the right to turn off the riser for repairs even during the heating season.

When to bleed air from batteries

Any gas is much lighter than water, and therefore, when it enters the radiator, it begins to accumulate at the top point. If the process continues, the air begins to expand and lower the water level. As a result, 50% of the radiator volume or more may remain without water. The heating device practically stops functioning. Therefore, it is necessary to bleed the air from the batteries in any case.

To know when you need to bleed air from a heating radiator in an apartment in a multi-story building, you need to understand when it most often gets there. This occurs under the following circumstances.

1. At the end of the heating season in the summer, heating services carry out preventive measures, during which the coolant is drained from the system, both partially and completely. Before the onset of cold weather, new water is poured into the system. Along with it, gas mixtures enter the radiators.
2. Owners of private houses often repair their own autonomous heating system in the summer. As a result of inept actions, air enters the heating system.
3. In apartment buildings with cast iron radiators, water is specially drained in the summer. This is done to avoid work on replacing gaskets between the registers. If coolant is left in the system, then old radiators may leak at the junctions of sections due to water cooling and pressure drop. When you have to start the heating system again, a large amount of air will enter it.
4. During the summer period, the volume of coolant noticeably decreases in volume. When the shut-off valves are opened, due to negative pressure, the water being poured in absorbs gases and fills all risers with them.

Safety precautions and preventive maintenance

To avoid injuries and other problems, you need to follow a number of rules when bleeding air:

• The rod from the air valve cannot be unscrewed - the pressure of the heated coolant will not allow it to be screwed back on;
• The body of the tap also cannot be turned out - it is very easy to break the thread, but it is difficult to eliminate the consequences of flooding the apartment;
• The radiator caps cannot be unscrewed even partially - they cannot be returned later, and boiling water pouring out of the radiators will bring a lot of negative emotions (about

Preventive measures

We figured out why air appears in the heating system and how to deal with this negative fact. It remains to be seen whether there are preventive measures that help avoid such problems. It turns out yes:

• when installing a heating system, it is necessary to provide for the installation of special devices that automatically remove air;
• Before adding water to the heating system, you should bleed the air;
• During operation, you should monitor the operation of the entire system by observing the readings of pressure gauges and from time to time monitoring the pressure in the pipes. In addition, it is recommended to monitor the level of coolant in the expansion tank, conduct a visual inspection of pipes and radiators, and check the uniformity of heat distribution along the circuit;
• The system should be periodically pumped to remove all blockages.

The implementation of this set of measures will extend the operational period of the entire heating network.

Scenario 1: apartment building, bottom filling

The bottom filling scheme is the most typical solution for modern houses. Both the return and supply pipelines are located in the basement. The risers connected to the bottlings are connected in pairs (supply with return) by a jumper on the top floor or in the attic.

Bottom filling: heating supply and return are routed through the basement.

Solution 1: start the elevator to reset

Removal of air from the heating system is carried out by housing and communal services workers at the stage of starting a completely or partially reset circuit.

To do this, it is reset:

1. One of the house valves opens, the second remains closed;
2. Before the closed valve, on the side of the heating circuit, a vent connected to the sewer opens.

The release of most of the air is indicated by a uniform flow of water in the discharge, without air bubbles.

Solution 2: air vents

At the top point of each pair of risers (in the radiator plug or on a jumper installed under the ceiling) in bottom filling systems, an air vent is always mounted. This is not necessarily a Mayevsky valve specifically designed for bleeding air: it can be successfully replaced by a ball valve, a screw valve or a water tap installed with the spout facing up.

The air vent may well look like this.

Venting air from the riser looks like this:

1. Open the tap slightly (no more than one turn). You should hear a hiss of air escaping;
2. Place any wide dish under it. A basin or bucket will save you from having to wipe up a puddle on the floor;
3. Wait until the air is replaced by water;
4. Close the tap. The riser should heat up within 5-10 minutes. If this does not happen, bleed the air again: it is possible that the circulation that has begun has driven new air bubbles to the upper point of the circuit section.

The mystery of bleeding air.

A few important points:

• Never unscrew the screw in the Mayevsky tap completely. With a pressure of 5-6 atmospheres and boiling water gushing out of the hole, you don’t have the slightest chance of screwing it back in. The consequence of rash actions will be the flooding of your apartment and the apartments below you along the riser with hot and dirty water;
• Do not unscrew the air vent itself under pressure. Even half a turn: you don’t know what condition its thread is in. If the heating drain valve is faulty, before repairing or replacing it, you must close both paired risers and make sure that the valves on them hold water;

The air vent can only be unscrewed with the risers removed.

• If you live on the top floor, make sure you have something to open the air vent before the heating season starts. Modern Mayevsky taps can be opened with your own hands or with a screwdriver, but in older houses you may need a special key;

Brass air vent sample from the 70s-80s.

It is easy to do by selecting a steel rod of the appropriate diameter and making a cut at its end.

Solution 3: bypassing the riser to discharge

The main problem with air vents on the lower bottling is precisely that they are located in the apartment on the top floor. What to do if its residents are chronically absent from home?

You can try to bypass the paired risers from the basement.

For this:

1. Let's examine the risers. After the valves, vents or plugs can be installed on them. In the first case, there will be no expenses, in the second, you need to purchase a ball valve with male-female threads of the same size as the plugs;

Perfect. Both paired risers are equipped with dumpers.

1. We close the valves on both risers;
2. We unscrew the plug on one of them;

After unscrewing it one or two turns, wait until the pressure of the water hitting the thread drops. This will ensure that the valves on the risers are working properly.

1. We screw in a ball valve instead of a plug, having previously wound the thread;
2. Fully open the installed sump;
3. Open the valve on the second riser. After the water pressure expels all the air, close the vent and open the second riser.

There are subtleties here too:

• If all the radiators are located on the supply riser, and the return riser is idle (without heating devices), place the vent on the return riser. In this case, all the air is guaranteed to escape. If there are batteries on both paired risers, it is not always possible to remove the resulting air plug;

Wiring with an idle return riser.

• If you were unable to bypass the risers in one direction, move the dump to the second riser and drive the water to the opposite side;
• If screw valves are installed on risers, avoid water flow through them in the direction opposite to that indicated by the arrow on the body. An attempt to open the valve with pressure pressed against the valve seat may cause the valve to tear off the stem. To fix the problem, it is often necessary to reset the entire home heating system.

Scenario 3: open heating system of a single-family house

An open system operates at a pressure corresponding to the height of the water column between the lower and upper points of the circuit.

Open system with natural circulation.

The bottling is laid with a constant slope, and an open expansion tank is mounted at its top point.

Open tank.

It combines several functions at once:

• The expansion tank itself, which compensates for the increase in coolant volume when heated;
• A safety valve that relieves excess pressure when the coolant boils in the boiler heat exchanger;
• Air balloon. All air is displaced to the upper part of the circuit, into the expansion tank and further into the atmosphere.

Obviously, such a scheme needs additional air vents much like a fish needs an umbrella. However, they can be equipped with separate heating radiators installed above the filling: Mayevsky taps will allow you to remove air from the radiator and force water to circulate through both of its collectors.

The heating device is located above the bottling and will collect air.

Mayevsky crane and automatic air vent

A simple device designed to eliminate air pockets will help eliminate airiness in the heating system and avoid problems with the law. The tap opens until air begins to escape.

Only a small amount of water will flow through the Mayevsky tap

At this time, water may ooze out, so you need to prepare the container in advance . The Mayevsky faucet is good because it has a very small hole through which a lot of water will not leak. As soon as the air is completely released, the device is closed. The installation of this element is permitted by regulations. The disadvantage of the faucet is that it has to be unscrewed and screwed in manually.

When air accumulates in the pipes too often, unscrewing the faucet can become a problem: not everyone wants to perform this tedious task several times a week. Therefore, it makes sense to consider another device - an automatic air vent (air vent). This is an auxiliary element, which is a body made of bronze or stainless steel.

Often the air vent is installed with a shut-off valve. Installation is carried out in this order: first screw in the valve, then screw the air vent into it. Principle of operation :

• air enters the housing and is released;
• when water begins to flow, it raises the float;
• the float presses the valve.

Thus, the device allows air to pass through, but does not allow coolant to leak out. However, the homeowner should be careful in any case, especially when it comes to a centralized heating system.

The pressure in the pipes is very high, and if you often bleed the air by unscrewing the structure or opening the tap, a breakdown may one day occur. For frequent problems, it is better to invite specialists . Often, only they can determine the true cause of air in the heating system of an apartment building and take the necessary measures.

Scenario 4: closed heating system of a single-family house

In a forced circulation circuit operating at excess pressure, an automatic air vent is usually installed. It is part of the boiler safety group and is installed at the outlet of its heat exchanger.

Some boilers are equipped with their own safety group located inside the housing.

The photo shows a boiler in the body of which a safety group and an expansion tank are mounted.

All heating devices located above the bottling points are additionally equipped with their own automatic air vents or Mayevsky taps.

An air vent is absolutely necessary only when the radiator is connected to the side or diagonally. Double-sided bottom connection allows operation of an air-filled battery. Air is forced into the upper collector, water circulates through the lower one, and the sections are heated throughout their entire height due to the thermal conductivity of the metal.

One way side connection. The radiator is located above the filler. An air vent is necessary.

A special case

Along with the air vent, another device is used in closed autonomous systems - an air separator for heating. Its function is to remove small air bubbles that saturate the coolant and contribute to corrosion of steel pipes, erosion of the circulation pump impeller and boiler heat exchanger.

The removal of air from the air chamber of the separator is carried out by our old friend - an automatic air vent.

The following may be responsible for collecting air bubbles:

• The so-called PALL - rings;

Design and principle of operation of PALL rings.

• Stainless steel or copper meshes.

Separator with stainless mesh.

The price of the most affordable separators for a connected pipeline diameter of 20 mm starts from about 2000 rubles, and the benefits they bring are quite doubtful. In my opinion, it is quite possible to do without these devices in an autonomous heating system.

Flamcovent separator for 1 inch pipe. Retail price - 5550 rubles.

How to remove an air lock from an engine cooling system

So, let's start with simple cars (old foreign cars, domestic auto industry). On such cars, air is removed from the cooling system as follows:

1. All you have to do is drive the car onto the overpass. This must be done in such a way that the front part is slightly raised.
2. Next, you need to unscrew a special cap on the radiator, after which the engine can be started.
3. After several minutes of operation at idle, the air is bled from the engine cooling system.

However, this method will not help solve the problem on more modern cars. On such vehicles, the cooling system is of a completely closed type, that is, to de-air the air must be “expelled”. To do this, you can go in two ways.

The first method involves unscrewing the cap of the expansion tank, then the engine with the cap open runs at idle for some time, then you need to get into the car and accelerate intensively, raising the speed to 3-3.5 thousand rpm. Next, you need to tighten the cover and check the operation of the system.

If this method does not help, then the upper pipe that comes from the stove is weakened. You need to be prepared for the fact that the antifreeze itself will begin to leak. Next, the engine starts, and you need to monitor when air bubbles disappear from the leaking coolant. Their disappearance will indicate that the air lock has been successfully removed from the system. Let's look at this method in more detail using the VAZ Kalina model as an example.

Before starting work, you should prepare the keys for dismantling the plastic protective elements. You will also need a screwdriver to loosen and then tighten the clamps.

So, the first step is to remove the plastic protection. This protection on the specified vehicle model is attached to the body using studs that have rubber seals. Next, you need to remove the clamp from the upper or lower pipe. Now you need to unscrew the cap of the expansion tank

If the engine is hot, be careful as hot coolant may splash out of the reservoir! Then cover the neck of the tank with a clean rag. Next, pull a suitable rubber tube onto the neck

After this, you need to supply some air to the tank by blowing into the tube. It is advisable to do this using a compressor.

Remember, coolant is a strong poison! Only as a last resort, blow out the reservoir with your mouth, but do not allow the coolant to get inside, into your eyes or onto your skin, and do not inhale the vapors!

• After air is supplied to the tank, antifreeze should begin to flow out of the pipe from which the clamp was previously removed. After this, you need to make sure that there are no air bubbles in the leaking coolant, then quickly put the pipe over the fitting, put the clamp in place and tighten it. At this stage, the deaeration process can be considered complete.
• Next, you will need to bring the coolant level to normal (usually “on cold” it is poured 4-5 mm higher than o, since after warming up the internal combustion engine, the liquid will increase in volume and rise to o).

• After this, the engine can be started and warmed up. In some cases, this procedure requires slightly screwing on the expansion tank cap without tightening it. Then you should let the power plant idle, periodically raising the speed. This method will allow you to remove excess air that could have formed when adding liquid.
• If everything is in order, you can tighten the cap more tightly, but do not try to tighten it too much.