How long does the heated floor warm up when first turned on?

Recently, heated floors have become very popular among the population. Floor heating is carried out by three types of heating of the base of the room.

These are systems of water heated floors, electrical cables and infrared film coatings.

Such devices can create comfortable conditions for a person to stay indoors at any time of the year. An important property of heating systems is the heating time of the floor covering. Many people are interested in the question of how much the heated floor heats up. Let's consider the factors influencing the heating time of the floor.

Why doesn't the water heated floor heat?

Here you will find out why the water heated floor does not heat: possible difficulties and their manifestations, the reason is bad boots, uneven and long heating time, and what causes the breakthrough.

Despite the fact that integrated heating systems and, namely, water heated floors, are considered more reliable, long-lasting, and efficient, at some point you may encounter problems.

Having examined them in advance, it is easier to find why the water heated floor does not work and take measures to eliminate the malfunction.

What temperature should I set on the boiler for optimal heating of the coolant?

A boiler is a device where water is heated. Boilers can be gas, electric or powered by combustion of solid fuel.

The temperature regime depends on the time of year (weather conditions) and the quality of insulation of the house. Therefore, it is recommended to select the indicators that need to be set on the boiler individually, but based on the established values:

  • 40 degrees is not an economically justified mode. If a gas boiler is used, then in this mode the heating of the coolant may not reach the specified level. Because of this, the heating and pump will not be turned off, and this will increase fuel consumption. In addition, due to power outages, water heated to this level will quickly cool down and the room will be cold.
  • 50 degrees - when setting this indicator, resource consumption is low. But at the same time, the pump runs longer, which increases electricity consumption. However, during power outages, the coolant heated to this level keeps heat in the floor longer.
  • 60 is the most economical mode, but this is possible heating for the TP. Heating is carried out better, and the boiler will consume less resources in total.
  • 70 and above - this mode is installed only with combined heating (radiators and heated floors). Since for underfloor heating water heating is allowed at +55 degrees, installation of a mixing unit is required.

It is not recommended to set a value higher than 70 on the boiler sensor, since this is quite enough for heating a home when using radiators and heated floors.

How long does the heated floor warm up when first turned on?

Underfloor heating is usually used in individual rooms of the house, it acts as a complement to classic heating by radiators. Such a system has many advantages. When starting up installed equipment, the question often arises of how long the heated floor warms up when it is first turned on. This happens from a few minutes to 2 and a half hours.

Cable floor heating

Cable floors quickly warm up and cool down slowly

The cable is laid in the form of a spiral and a snake. The spiral shape is used in small areas (up to 20 m2). On huge bases, the cable is fixed in the shape of a snake.

The electronic heating element will quickly heat up and begin to radiate heat into the floor body. A screed thickness of 70 mm or more will significantly increase the inertness of concrete. In this case, the floor will warm up longer and cool down more slowly. At the same time, energy consumption will increase significantly.

For the first heating you need from 6 to 8 hours

How much warm floors warm up when the cable is first turned on depends almost entirely on the power of the wire.

With proper installation of electronic heating and compliance with building codes when laying the screed, the time for the first heating of the base of the room can be from 6 to 8 hours.

Warm floor: how long does it take to heat up?

To take advantage of all the advantages of such systems, you need to do the installation correctly and carry out the first start exactly according to the instructions:

  • Before you need to carefully blow and adjust the installation. The air in the heating circuits can slow down significantly and even block heating.
  • In turn, the lack of regulation of valves or flow meters will lead to uneven heating, slowing down time.

Typically, a thin coating under a small screed heats up in 15 minutes with a cable power of 150 W/m2. Very often, in order to speed up the solution to the problem of how long it takes for a heated floor to heat up, the temperature of the supplied water is increased to 55 C. Meanwhile, such an action can produce a completely opposite effect from the intended solution to the question of how long it takes for a heated floor to heat up.

Sensors, whose role is to protect against overheating, can turn off pumps and heat supply. Thus, instead of speeding up the start and quickly resolving the issue of how long it takes for the heated floor to heat up, a delay occurs. If the system is overheated, the coating may be damaged within a few hours. Heating temperatures above 60 C will lead to damage to the surface layer and cracking of the screed.

Film infrared heating

Heating after the first switching occurs within 2 - 3 hours

Film infrared heated floors attract all the enormous attention of consumers. An electrode grid is soldered into the polymer layer of the film, which, under the influence of electronic current, emits thermal rays in the infrared spectrum.

Many people are interested in how quickly the floor covering heats up from IR film. This question cannot be answered with complete certainty. Everything depends on the coverage area, the technical characteristics of the IR film, and the method of laying out the connection circuit to the electronic network. But one thing can be stated that where the floor was heated under the IR coating, the first heating time was 2 – 3 hours.

Thanks to its design features, IR coatings can be easily and quickly installed under any floor covering, not counting ceramics. tiles The exception is the IR heating device under the tile. For more information about connecting and heating the floor, see this

Warm water floors

Water floors are covered with cement screed and do not warm up immediately

Water floors are a pipeline system connected to a gas boiler through a manifold block. By supplying hot water, the boiler “forces” the floor coverings to heat up.

Pipes for aqua systems are made from cross-linked cellophane, polyurethane, metal-plastic and copper. Tubes made from cross-linked cellophane are the most popular. Polymer products require special welding equipment for installation.

The best quality copper pipes. At the same time, these are the most expensive pipelines.

Warm water floors are covered with cement screed. How long it takes for floor coverings to warm up depends almost entirely on the thickness of the cement screed. Pipes for underfloor heating are usually used with a diameter of 16 mm. This size, confirmed by accumulated operating experience, is determined on the basis of thermal engineering calculations.

The copper pipeline begins to release heat most quickly

Through the collector unit, a certain number of heating circuits located in several rooms are heated with hot water.

Heating engineers advise making the length of the 1st circuit about 70 m with a pipe diameter of 16 mm. It is recommended to make the screed height less than 50 mm. In this case, the thickness of the screed over the laid pipes will be about 30 mm.

The floors will reach the required temperature no earlier than in half a day

How long does the heated floor warm up when first turned on under these conditions?

Practice indicates that the heating time of a heated floor when first turned on can last from 12 hours to a day and a half.

To do this, the water leaving the boiler is brought to a temperature of 90°C.

After the floor has warmed up, the initial coolant temperature is reduced to 70°C.

When wondering how long it takes for a water heated floor to heat up, you should not count on an instant response from the system, because such heating is inert. However, a very long wait gives reason to suspect a malfunction, which you can remove with your own hands.

Pipeline damage

A breakthrough of a water heated floor manifests itself in a leak and often a sharp drop in pressure in the pipes. A leak not only reduces the amount of coolant in the system, but is also fraught with destruction of the floor, flooding of neighbors and damage to property.

If a warm water floor begins to heat poorly and a leak is suspected, then the first step is to inspect the surface and joints of the floor covering. There may be no wet spots. Then you should use a thermal imager.

After determining the location of the leak, you need to carefully dismantle the floor covering and screed locally. The method of eliminating a leak comes down to excision of the damaged section of the pipe and replacing it with a new, intact one. The technology depends on the type of pipes used.

Before dismantling the coating and cutting out the pipe, you must first shut off the coolant supply to the circuit (at the collector), and then completely drain the water from the circuit. After repair, the circuit starts up. It is mandatory to check the solder or connection for leaks.

Before heating a water heated floor, it is necessary to de-air it.

Warm-up speed

To know exactly how quickly a warm electric floor heats up, you need to make calculations taking into account its design. For example, if the system was installed without thermal insulation, since there is a heated room under the floor, then its heat loss will be higher, which means it will take longer to heat up.

To assess the heating of such a structure, it is necessary to take into account two layers of screed - above the cable or mat and below it.

Time for 1m2 is calculated by the formula:

t heating = (C/P) • (t initial – t final), where:

  • C is the heat capacity;
  • P – power of the system itself in W/m2;
  • t is the temperature at the beginning of heating, and what it should be.

To calculate the heat capacity of 1 m2 of floor, the formula is used:

  • ρ is the density of the screed;
  • c is the specific heat capacity of all materials in the system;
  • V is the volume of the entire heating system.

For example, with indicators:

  • design power is 135 W/m2;
  • the thickness of the mortar layer above the cable is 15 mm, the glue is 5 mm and the floor covering is 10 mm, all together = 30 mm;
  • initial t - +18, minimum for the system - +27 degrees;
  • c (heat capacity of the screed) = 840 J/m2;
  • ρ (specific density) = 1600 kg/m3.

Based on these parameters, it turns out that the heat capacity of 1 m2 of the system with the heated thickness of the lower and upper layers of the screed = 30+30 = 60 mm or 0.06 m.

Substituting the numbers into the formula:

  • C = ρ x c x V, we get 1600 • 840 • 0.06 = 80,640 J/m2

The time for heating the system will be:

  • t = (80640 / 135) • (27 – 18) = approximately 1.5 hours.

It turns out that an electric cable floor without insulation and with screeds above and below it will take about an hour and a half to warm up from +18 to +27 degrees.

If you use a heat insulator when installing a warm electric floor, even if there is a heated room underneath, then the heating rate will be halved.

If the heating time of an electric heated floor significantly exceeds the permissible standards, then the system is failing somewhere and the cause must be identified, otherwise high costs may be incurred in servicing it.

Why doesn't the water heated floor heat?

heated does not heat : possible problems and their manifestations, the reason for poor operation, uneven and long heating times, and also what causes a breakthrough.

Despite the fact that built-in heating systems and, in particular, water heated floors are considered the most reliable, durable, and efficient, sooner or later you may encounter problems.

Having studied them in advance, it is easier to determine why the water heated floor does not work and take measures to eliminate the malfunction.

Is there a temperature standard or not?

Regulatory documents have been developed, according to which standard temperature values ​​​​are established for various rooms.

Living rooms20° — 22 °18° — 24 °
Kitchen, bathroom19 ° — 21 °18° — 26 °
Bath24 ° — 26 °18° — 26 °
Corridor18 ° — 20 °16° — 22 °

According to SNIP, the maximum and minimum heating degrees are in the range +26 - 36 °C. The temperature level must be determined based on the type of room.

Why the water heated floor does not heat: faults and their elimination

Water heating built into the floor is a rather complex system of interconnected components. If the water heated floor does not work, the reasons may be different.

First of all, you need to know the basic elements of this type of heating:

  • Pipes are lines through which coolant circulates, transferring heat to the floor surface.
  • Bypass.
  • Circulation pump.
  • The manifold and electric drives of the inlet group, which serve to regulate the flow in the circuits, as well as a balancing valve, designed to mix heated water and water that has already given off heat.
  • Thermostats and thermostats that allow you to regulate and maintain the set temperature. In the event of a breakdown, both cooling and critical overheating of the system are possible.

READ Electric underfloor heating, how much electricity does it consume?

It is worth taking into account possible flaws in installation. Eliminating such a malfunction as, for example, an insufficient amount of insulation and high heat loss, will be problematic, because you will have to lift the floor covering of the warm water floor, dismantle the screed and pipes.

Also, if a warm water floor does not heat, the reasons may lie in incorrect calculations during the design and, as a result, incorrectly selected system components according to the parameters. It often happens that there is not enough energy for proper heating. In this case, the problem is low network voltage or insufficient boiler power.

However, we will consider the most typical breakdowns, places and causes of their occurrence, as well as ways to solve the problem.

Uneven heating

In cases where a water heated floor does not heat well, the reasons may lie in the uneven distribution of the coolant in the circuits. This is due to the fact that the contours, as a rule, have different lengths. If the rate of water supply at the collector to each loop is the same, then the coolant will take longer to pass through a longer circuit. Accordingly, in such loops the water cools faster.

In this case, solving the question of why the warm water floor does not warm up will be possible by adjusting the supply of coolant on the manifold to each circuit. It is necessary to check and adjust the levels of the electric drives of the supply valves.

In this case, you will have to be patient, because the time it takes for a water-heated floor to warm up depends on many factors (the design and thickness of the “warm cake”, the temperature and intensity of the water supply, the temperature outside the windows, the flooring material, what power the heater is chosen for the warm floor). water floor, etc.).

Automation tools will help to facilitate control and adjustment, namely temperature sensors and servos on the collector valves connected to an external thermostat - an analyzer that sends commands to the collector to regulate the water supply to the loops.

Electrical faults

Why doesn't a warm water floor heat up if there is no leak? Considering that some elements of the system require power from the mains to function, it can be assumed that the cause of the trouble lies precisely in them.

A common failure is the failure of the circulation pump and thermostat located in the mixing unit of the manifold. It is necessary to check whether voltage is supplied to them. This can be done with a multimeter or an indicator screwdriver. In principle, the inoperability of the pump can be determined by the absence of any noise.

After a general check of the thermostat, if the problem is not identified, it is necessary to check the resistance of each of its terminals. It is possible that the temperature sensors have failed. Therefore, it is recommended to regularly check their performance.

heated is not heating , and nothing else has raised suspicions, it is better to seek help from a specialist.

Causes of malfunctions

When using a heated floor, problems may arise related to its operation. There are two types of malfunctions - complete loss of heating and the inability to control it. For some breakdowns, you will have to remove the finishing coating and dismantle the screed, and for others, you will have to repair the temperature controller.

The reason for the breakdown of the heated floor may be a malfunction of the thermostat or a cable break.

Before you undertake the repair of warm electric floors, you will need to determine the reason that led to the breakdown. For example, this could be construction work that caused a heating wire to be broken, or a flood that flooded the control unit.

If the heating has completely disappeared, then the presence of voltage is checked on the line supplying electricity to it. Sometimes a breakdown occurs due to a circuit breaker tripping or poor contact.

When the input voltage is present, but there is still no heating, you need to find the cause of the malfunction. It may be hidden in the heating wire or thermostat. To understand what caused the breakdown, you need to disconnect the underfloor heating contacts from the regulator and measure their resistance. For this you will need a multimeter. The resulting resistance value should not differ by more than 10% from that specified by the manufacturer.

A significant deviation from the norm indicates damage to the cable under the tie. It can be caused by an insulation breakdown (when the resistance value decreases) or a cable break (the multimeter will show infinity).

If everything is in order with the resistance and there is voltage at the input, then the breakdown is in the thermostat, which is easiest to check by replacing it. Malfunctions in it also lead to incorrect setting of the heating temperature, but in this case the culprit may also be a broken sensor.

Thermostat failure

A common failure in practice is insufficiently tight contact of the wires in the regulator terminal block. Before removing the thermostat, you should try to tighten these contact points.

Before disconnecting the thermostat, try tightening the contacts, this may be the reason

You can understand that it is the thermostat that is to blame by directly connecting the underfloor heating wires to a 220 volt network. If after this the floor becomes warm, the thermostat will have to be replaced. If you have the appropriate skills, you can try to repair it yourself.

The most common radioelements that fail are key transistors, voltage stabilizers, electrolytic capacitors and relays. Often a breakdown of the mains capacitor also occurs.

Cable damage

Repairing the wire under the screed is a very serious task, since it will have to be dismantled. But in order not to tear off the entire coating, special devices are used to help narrow down the location of the breakdown.

Repairing a broken cable requires dismantling the tie

To repair a broken cable, you will need to prepare:

  • thermal imager or hidden wiring detector;
  • generator;
  • connecting sleeve;
  • heat shrink;
  • press tongs.

Before determining the location of the damage, the wire laid in the floor is disconnected. High voltage is then applied to the cable through a generator or high-frequency transformer. Next, using a thermal imager, a point with a higher temperature is determined.

Once a place is found, the section of screed located above it is dismantled. The ends of the damaged cable are stripped and connected to each other through a copper sleeve, followed by crimping. After this, the cable connection is protected with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Before restoring the screed, the system is turned on and checked for functionality.

Sensor repair

If the sensor malfunctions, you will not have to destroy the floor to replace it, since it is installed in a special protective tube.

The sensor cannot be repaired; it must be replaced with a new one.

To dismantle it, you only need to find the exit of this tube and pull it out by the ends of the wires. But in rare cases, the tube may be embedded in the wall.

The sensor itself cannot be repaired; a new one is purchased instead. If necessary, a wire of the required length is soldered to it, which is installed in place of the old one.

Possible problems and their manifestations

A malfunction in the water heated floor system manifests itself in a sharp decrease in the level of comfort in the room.

  • Most often there is no heating, the room becomes cold.
  • Less often, users have to deal with excessive heating, when it becomes unbearably hot, and the heating time of a water heated floor is significantly reduced. If such a malfunction is not corrected in time, the floor covering, screed and the pipes themselves may deteriorate.

The question arises, why does a water heated floor heat poorly or is there no heating at all?

Often, such problems can arise immediately after installation of the system during the first start-up. That is why it is important to know the requirements for putting a heated water floor into operation, as well as to be able to correctly adjust the system.

In order not to worry, wondering how long it takes for a water heated floor to warm up, you should adhere to all the requirements of the installation technology when constructing a “warm pie”. One of the possible reasons for the low quality of heat transfer from the system is poor-quality thermal insulation.

Periodic recording of energy consumption and temperature can be invaluable in identifying the problem. By checking them, it is much easier to identify the malfunction in time.

When wondering how long it takes for a water heated floor to heat up, you should not count on an immediate response from the system, because such heating is inert. However, waiting too long gives reason to suspect a malfunction, which you can fix yourself.

How to check the resistance of a heating cable

Connecting the heating cable is possible after the heated floor is installed and the screed and tile adhesive are completely dry. It would be nice to be able to check the cable operation at all stages of floor installation. This can be done by measuring the resistance of the cores.

Measurements can be performed using a special multimeter. Learning to use the device is very simple. To do this, you need to switch the device to a mode that measures resistance.

How to check insulation resistance:

  • It is necessary to measure the resistance between each heating core, as well as the insulation.
  • The multimeter should be set to 2000 kOhm mode.
  • The value that is obtained. Should tend to 1. If this is the case, you can be sure that the cable insulation and braiding are not damaged.

To check whether the multimeter is working correctly, you need to short-circuit the probes, then the device should show zero. For some measurements it is better to use a megometer.

How long does the heated floor warm up when first turned on?

Answers from experts

— you need to use thin large-format porcelain stoneware, it has a thickness of 3.5 mm or 5 mm, effective with heated floors!

You should not rely on the heating rate in this matter. You won’t be laying two-millimeter porcelain tiles. Another issue is that it is not practical to lay huge tiles in a small room. It seems to me that in any case the floor will warm up for about two hours.

The heating intensity depends to a greater extent on the thickness of the screed than on the thickness of the porcelain stoneware.

Porcelain tiles are standard in thickness, usually 10-12 mm; for a heated floor mat on an existing screed, this is more for comfort than for heating, and the initial heating rate is not relevant if there is a programmable temperature sensor.

When you turn it on for the first time, it can take an hour or three... In winter, with a cold floor, you can wait even a day. When the system enters operating mode, 20 - 30 minutes will be enough. There are a few "buts". how the floor is insulated, the street or living room below, what thermostat is used, to what temperature you want the floor to heat up.

Warm floors are not part of the operational (short-term) heating system. If you make it like this, then the floor itself will not last long, due to the significant thermo-mechanical stresses that will occur when heated.

It all depends on the installed capacity of the heated floor per square meter. Moreover, if the power is insufficient, then the floor will not even warm up to the set temperature if the apartment is very cold, due to the location of the apartment (ground floor for example), the thickness of the glue, etc. 10mm is a fairly large thickness.

Rules for using a steam iron

The steam iron is a relatively new invention that is loved by many. The principle of its operation is the release of hot steam, which can smooth out wrinkles. Things are ironed in a vertical position.

Before steaming begins, water is poured into the device. It can be distilled water or regular tap water, it all depends on the model. Then, when turned on, the heating element begins to work, heating the liquid to a temperature of 90-100 degrees, and the generator producing steam.

The advantages of this device include:

  1. Ability to smooth all types of fabric.
  2. Clothes with decorations (beads, rivets, etc.) can also be easily ironed.
  3. It is almost impossible to ruin things, since the area of ​​the steam iron does not come into contact with the fabric.
  4. It is easy to iron large items, such as curtains, sheets, bedspreads.

The fly in the ointment in this jar of honey is the cost of a steam iron. Now it can be purchased for 2500-25000 rubles. This is significantly more expensive than the regular model.

Why doesn't the water heated floor heat?

Here you will find out why a water heated floor does not heat: possible problems and their manifestations, the reason for poor operation, uneven and long heating times, and also what causes a breakthrough.

Despite the fact that built-in heating systems and, in particular, water heated floors are considered the most reliable, durable, and efficient, sooner or later you may encounter problems.

Having studied them in advance, it is easier to determine why the water heated floor does not work and take measures to eliminate the malfunction.

A malfunction in the water heated floor system manifests itself in a sharp decrease in the level of comfort in the room.

  • Most often there is no heating. the room becomes cold.
  • Less often, users have to deal with excessive heat. when it becomes unbearably hot, and the heating time of the water heated floor is significantly reduced. If such a malfunction is not corrected in time, the floor covering, screed and the pipes themselves may deteriorate.

READ Mixture for underfloor heating

The question arises, why does a water heated floor heat poorly or is there no heating at all?

Often, such problems can arise immediately after installation of the system during the first start-up. That is why it is important to know the requirements for putting a heated water floor into operation, as well as to be able to correctly adjust the system.

In order not to worry, wondering how long it takes for a water heated floor to warm up, you should adhere to all the requirements of the installation technology when constructing a “warm pie”. One of the possible reasons for the low quality of heat transfer from the system is poor-quality thermal insulation.

Periodic recording of energy consumption and temperature can be invaluable in identifying the problem. By checking them, it is much easier to identify the malfunction in time.

Water heating built into the floor is a rather complex system of interconnected components. If the water heated floor does not work, the reasons may be different.

First of all, you need to know the basic elements of this type of heating:

  • Pipes are lines through which coolant circulates, transferring heat to the floor surface.
  • Bypass.
  • Circulation pump.
  • Collector and electric drives of the entrance group. serving to regulate the flow in the circuits, as well as a balancing valve designed to mix heated water and water that has already given off heat.
  • Thermostats and thermostats. allowing you to regulate and maintain the set temperature. In the event of a breakdown, both cooling and critical overheating of the system are possible.

It is worth taking into account possible flaws in installation. Eliminating such a malfunction as, for example, an insufficient amount of insulation and high heat loss, will be problematic, because you will have to lift the floor covering of the warm water floor, dismantle the screed and pipes.

Also, if a warm water floor does not heat, the reasons may lie in incorrect calculations during the design and, as a result, incorrectly selected system components according to the parameters. It often happens that there is not enough energy for proper heating. In this case, the problem is low network voltage or insufficient boiler power.

However, we will consider the most typical breakdowns, places and causes of their occurrence, as well as ways to solve the problem.

A breakthrough of a water heated floor manifests itself in a leak and often a sharp drop in pressure in the pipes. A leak not only reduces the amount of coolant in the system, but is also fraught with destruction of the floor, flooding of neighbors and damage to property.

Heating time for cable floor under tiles

If a warm water floor begins to heat poorly and a leak is suspected, then the first step is to inspect the surface and joints of the floor covering. There may be no wet spots. Then you should use a thermal imager.

After determining the location of the leak, you need to carefully dismantle the floor covering and screed locally. The method of eliminating a leak comes down to excision of the damaged section of the pipe and replacing it with a new, intact one. The technology depends on the type of pipes used.

Before dismantling the coating and cutting out the pipe, you must first shut off the coolant supply to the circuit (at the collector), and then completely drain the water from the circuit. After repair, the circuit starts up. It is mandatory to check the solder or connection for leaks.

Before heating a water heated floor, it is necessary to de-air it.

In cases where a water heated floor does not heat well, the reasons may lie in the uneven distribution of the coolant in the circuits. This is due to the fact that the contours, as a rule, have different lengths. If the rate of water supply at the collector to each loop is the same, then the coolant will take longer to pass through a longer circuit. Accordingly, in such loops the water cools faster.

In this case, solving the question of why the warm water floor does not warm up will be possible by adjusting the supply of coolant on the manifold to each circuit. It is necessary to check and adjust the levels of the electric drives of the supply valves.

In this case, you will have to be patient, because the time it takes for a water-heated floor to warm up depends on many factors (the design and thickness of the “warm cake”, the temperature and intensity of the water supply, the temperature outside the windows, the flooring material, what power the heater is chosen for the warm floor). water floor, etc.).

Automation tools will help to facilitate control and adjustment, namely temperature sensors and servos on the collector valves connected to an external thermostat - an analyzer that sends commands to the collector to regulate the water supply to the loops.

Why doesn't a warm water floor heat up if there is no leak? Considering that some elements of the system require power from the mains to function, it can be assumed that the cause of the trouble lies precisely in them.

A common failure is the failure of the circulation pump and thermostat located in the mixing unit of the manifold. It is necessary to check whether voltage is supplied to them. This can be done with a multimeter or an indicator screwdriver. In principle, the inoperability of the pump can be determined by the absence of any noise.

After a general check of the thermostat, if the problem is not identified, it is necessary to check the resistance of each of its terminals. It is possible that the temperature sensors have failed. Therefore, it is recommended to regularly check their performance.

If you have not been able to find out on your own why the water heated floor is not heating, and nothing else has raised suspicions, it is better to seek help from a specialist.

Best answers

It takes a long time to warm up, depending on the pump and boiler, and it takes a long time, but once it warms up it’s comfortable.

Yes, straight away, stone-concrete conducts heat quickly. 1-2 minutes.

Depending on the installation features, from 20 minutes (film under MDF) to 3 hours (in concrete), and full restoration of the mode after a long shutdown takes 6-8 hours. But it also takes a very long time to cool down. When the heating is turned off, you can stay in relatively acceptable conditions for half a day.

in the bathroom, electric on thermal insulation, heat appears in 10 minutes, dropsy in the screed in a private house, the boiler runs for a day

The thermal conductivity of metal is tens of times greater than that of concrete or ceramics. So think about it! The efficiency of a steel radiator is in most cases several times higher than that of a heated floor (it happens the other way around, but such systems are rare in the Russian Federation). And the radiator warms up many times faster. For example, the thermal conductivity of sand concrete with a density of 1800 kg/m3 is 0.93 W/(m ×°C). The thermal conductivity of steel is 7850 kg/m3—58 W/(m ×°C). The difference in paste is 60 times. That is, if the coolant temperature is the same, the floor will warm up tens of times slower. If the radiator warms up in a fraction of a minute, then the floor will warm up in a few minutes.

The thermal conductivity of Marble is better than that of sand concrete, but it is far from steel, marble with a density of 2800 kg/m3 is 2.91 W/(m ×°C) This is if marble is on the floor, the data is similar for all cream granites.

If the floor pie is covered with tiles, then its thermal conductivity must be calculated, taking into account the thickness of the glue, tiles, and their properties, but in any case, these materials are less thermally conductive than metals.

Here is a good article about heated floors - [link blocked by decision of the project administration]

-answer

When wondering how long it takes for a water heated floor to heat up, you should not count on an immediate response from the system, because such heating is inert. However, waiting too long gives reason to suspect a malfunction, which you can fix yourself.

Question for experts: How long does it take for a heated floor to warm up, unlike a radiator? (I should at least find out approximately) 5 minutes or a day...

Optimal coolant temperature depending on coating

A water heating system is often installed in a concrete screed, and it has a high degree of heating. If the screed is thick, the floor surface will warm up worse. In addition, different flooring materials have different degrees of thermal conductivity.

The optimal temperature for a heated floor when laying laminate or parquet heated by water heating is considered to be +28 degrees. Excess may deform the material.

If the hydrofloor is located under the tiles, then the permissible value is + 33. When laying carpet, the maximum heating of the coolant is +27 degrees. When using linoleum, overheating is not recommended, and the temperature should not exceed more than + 26°C.

In any case, it is necessary to choose a material that is intended for heating systems, otherwise toxic substances may be released.

How long does it take for a water heated floor to warm up?

Underfloor heating is typically used in individual rooms of the home and acts as a complement to traditional radiator heating. Such a system has many advantages. When starting up installed equipment, the question often arises of how long the heated floor warms up when it is first turned on. This happens from a few minutes to two and a half hours.

Favorable temperature distribution in rooms reduces energy consumption and radically solves the problem of how long it takes for a heated floor under a tile to heat up.

The heating temperature is higher at the feet and lower at the top, giving a feeling of comfort even when the room is colder than in a room heated by conventional radiators. At the same time, you can maintain the temperature lower by 2 C without feeling any inconvenience.

This helps save about 5-10% of energy resources.

When the temperature in a room with a heating system increases by 2 C, the amount of heat transferred through the pipes under the screed will decrease by more than 40%. Simple room automation that controls the equipment will shut it down without the need for expensive controllers connecting that heat source to the heating system.

READ Do-it-yourself heated floor in the kitchen

After installation and switching on, many people wonder how quickly the heated floor under the tiles heats up, with a fairly thick screed. In this case, the time will drag on a little, it will take about 2.5 hours. It also affects how much the heated floor under the tiles heats up when first turned on:

  • cable power (with increased values ​​this will happen faster);
  • thermal insulation under the screed (it will prevent heat from escaping downwards).

The heated floors are running, we are waiting for heating.

An extremely important issue when starting up is also how long the heated floor warms up and the recommended water heating temperature. The start of operation is carried out in stages. Firstly, the pipes warm up.

Depending on the temperature of the object, the thickness of the tie and the power of the cable, this can take up to several hours. Only after this the room begins to warm up, which can take several dozen more hours.

To take advantage of all the benefits of such systems, it is necessary to carry out the installation correctly and carry out the first start-up exactly according to the instructions:

  • Before starting, you need to carefully blow out and adjust the installation. The air in the heating circuits can slow down significantly and even block heating.
  • In turn, failure to regulate valves or flow meters will result in uneven heating, slowing down time.

Typically, a thin coating under a small screed heats up in 15 minutes with a cable power of 150 W/m2. Very often, in order to speed up the solution to the problem of how long it takes for a heated floor to heat up, the temperature of the supplied water is increased to 55 C. Meanwhile, such an action can produce a completely opposite effect from the intended solution to the question of how long it takes for a heated floor to heat up.

Sensors, whose role is to protect against overheating, can turn off pumps and heat supply. Thus, instead of speeding up the start and quickly resolving the issue of how long it takes for the heated floor to heat up, a delay occurs. If the system is overheated, the coating may be damaged within a few hours. Heating temperatures above 60 C will lead to damage to the surface layer and cracking of the screed.

If the heated floor is on a wooden base or a flooring system, then after filling the system with coolant, you can immediately set it up and put it into operating temperature mode.

If you have just such a floor, then this article will still be useful to you, because below we will talk about the main points of filling and general system settings.

If you become the happy owner of a water floor based on a concrete screed, then the startup steps will be different. By the time it is turned on for the first time, the floor screed should finally gain strength and most of the moisture should evaporate from it. This is about 30 days from the moment it was filled.

The first launch of a warm water floor can be divided into three stages:

  • Filling the system with coolant
  • Setting up a heated floor system
  • Warming up and drying the floor screed

If you followed all the recommendations on our website, you should remember that the process of installing a heated floor involves crimping the system before pouring the floor screed or flooring (if it is a wooden floor or decking).

Why doesn't the water heated floor heat?

If you don't know what we're talking about, we recommend you read it. So, one of the methods of pressure testing is to pressurize a warm water floor with water. Therefore, if you followed this method, then, in principle, you have already done half the work.

Another question is when the pressure testing was done with air, or was not done at all, or instead of water it is planned to use a special non-freezing liquid for heating as a coolant. In the latter case, you will have to drain all the water from the heated floor used for pressure testing.

Before filling the heated floor with coolant, all taps that must be open during heating operation must be opened. This includes:

  • Circuit valves or flow meters that are located on the manifold
  • Shut-off valves for the supply and return pipes of the manifold
  • Three-way valve for underfloor heating mixing unit
  • Automatic air vents on the collector and other heating areas

If the three-way valve has a thermostatic head, set it to the maximum value. If it is missing, unscrew the valve to the maximum.

Further actions depend on what you plan to pour into the system, water or antifreeze, as well as whether you have an open or closed heating system.

Let's consider the option of filling a closed type heating system, fed from a water supply system.

To do this, as already mentioned, we open all the valves of the heated floor comb and the valve for heating replenishment from the water supply. At the same time, you will hear the sound of water moving through the pipes and air leaving the automatic air vents.

Wait until air stops coming out of the auto vents. After all sounds stop, turn on the heated floor circulation pump. The air vents will begin to operate again, and the sound of air passing through the circulation pump will be heard.

In this mode, run the pump for several minutes until most of the air leaves the system.

Once this has happened, open the valve of the next loop and close the previous one. So “pump up” all existing circuits. After completing the pumping of the last loop, you can open all the previous ones.

If the heating system has radiators without automatic air bleeders, be sure to bleed air from them using the existing special Mayevsky valve on the radiator.

At this point, the heating system, which includes a water heated floor, is considered complete and the heated floor can be put into operation. But more on that below. First, let's consider more options for filling the heated floor and the entire system under other circumstances.

An open heating system is considered when the system has an open type expansion tank at the top point of the entire heating system, into which coolant is constantly added as it evaporates.

To fill such a system, you must have at least a drain valve at the lowest point of the heating system. Filling is done through it, using a hose coming from the water supply. But the correct option would be to first fill the heated floor through special taps on the manifold, designed to fill and drain the system, again using a hose.

Filling the contours of a heated floor is carried out using the same method as for a closed type. Only here can you immediately push the system until water appears in the expansion tank. As air leaves the heated floor and the system as a whole, it is necessary to turn on the water from time to time, as its level will drop. Don't forget to bleed air from radiators if you have them.

Antifreeze in the heating system has one good advantage. It will not freeze at sub-zero room temperatures.

This becomes especially important when the premises are not permanently lived, for example, in a country house, where the owners come for the weekend, and between visits they turn off the boiler, or the boiler is solid fuel, requiring constant replenishment of fuel.

If there is also a warm floor in such a house, this becomes even more relevant. If you simply drain the water from a conventional pipe or radiator system, then from a warm water floor this is a kind of problem.

This method can be used to fill not only antifreeze, but also regular water. For example, when there is no water supply nearby, or the water in the water supply contains a large amount of salts, which is not very good for the heating system. Therefore, they take water, for example clean melt water, and fill the heating system with it.

To perform this work, you will need a special crimping machine, which can be rented from a company specializing in this. It's not worth buying it just for once.

The hose from the pressure tester is connected to the supply manifold, antifreeze or water is poured into the pressure tester bath and you begin pumping, adding coolant to the pressure tester bath as needed.

At the same time, you can “play around” with closing the contours for better pressure in individual loops.

If it just so happens that you couldn’t find a special crimping machine, you can use a regular vibration pump like a “stream” or “baby”.

You just need to take a pump with a lower water intake. The pump is immersed, for example, in a bucket. Make sure that it is constantly completely immersed in coolant during operation so that it does not overheat.

Sources:

https://netholodu.com/teplyj-pol/vodyanoj/neispravnosti.html https://24biz-mebel.ru/skolko-vremeni-progrevaetsya-teplyy-pol/ https://delaempoly.ru/skolko-progrevaetsya-teplyy -pervom-vklyuchenii/

System design

Such coatings are gaining more and more supporters; this reduces the cost of maintenance, eliminates the causes of moisture, and guarantees high indoor comfort. However, you need to remember that this is a completely different heating system, and the principles of its operation are significantly different. Therefore, how much does a heated floor heat up when it is first turned on is a fairly common question among those wishing to install such equipment.

The most important parameter in heating systems is the water supply temperature. To ensure proper operation of the installation and resolve the issue of how long it takes for a heated floor to heat up, the permissible value of 55 C cannot be exceeded - this is a temperature that provides a comfortable atmosphere of 30 C. This value is the maximum above which the surface overheats, which is harmful to health.

Before you find out how long it takes for a heated floor to heat up for the first time, you need to learn a little about this equipment. This system is a kind of surface heating, similar to the less popular wall and ceiling heating. In the room that is to be heated in this way, instead of traditional radiators, one of the following systems is installed:

  • thin tubes that heat water to the desired temperature;
  • heating cables, mats or foil (electrical equipment).

Such heating is installed at the screed manufacturing stage, before laying parquet, laminate or tiles. Assembling the system requires dismantling the interior trim and expensive refurbishment, including relocating central heating pipes and installing cables.

Therefore, if you are planning such modifications and want to find the answer to the question of how long a heated floor heats up for the first time, this should be done during repairs or modernization. Floor heating is best designed before the building is built. Then there will be no problems with the height of the room and the need to level the covering under the screed.

Heating is not at full strength

Sometimes consumers do not immediately notice that there is something wrong with their floor heater. It's on, but doesn't heat well. An electric heated floor, depending on its type, has heating parameters set by the manufacturer.

On average, if the installation was carried out correctly, then for:

  • Infrared film floor heating time will be 10-15 minutes;
  • heating mats filled with glue will reach the temperature set by the thermostat in 6-8 hours;
  • a cable floor “recessed” into a thick screed will take a day to warm up.

If the system took longer or did not reach the specified parameters, the reason for this may be:

  1. Incorrect installation of the temperature sensor. If it is placed too close to the heating element of the structure, it will cause the thermostat to turn off before the floor covering warms up.
  2. The sensor itself may fail, so it must be checked without turning off the thermostat.
  3. The cause may be low voltage, which can be avoided by installing a stabilizer.
  4. The floor can take a long time to warm up if the heat loss is higher than the system can produce. This can happen if there is no thermal insulation.
  5. Initially, incorrect calculations can significantly reduce the power of a heated floor.

Best answers

Andrey Fedorov:

As a specialist in the field of electric “Warm Floors,” I can say that systems based on mats (termomat), installed directly into the adhesive layer under the tiles, warm up faster than those installed in the screed, in about 4-8 hours. But the point is different. Warm floors with a thermostat are installed for permanent use in a residential area, i.e., after connecting the thermostat, the temperature required to maintain it is set on the thermostat, according to technical specifications. conditions, the “new floor” must reach the “operating” operating mode within 24 hours and subsequently be constantly turned on in order to maintain the floor temperature you set. The thermostat turns off only with the onset of the warm season or when there are no residents in the house for a long time (like a regular electrical appliance). And the temperature of the floor can only be felt by hand in comparison with the “cold” one, because the temperature of the person. body - 36.6 degrees. , and the floor is heated on the surface, usually up to 24-28 degrees (comfortable heating).

MikLaren:

First switching on: from 6 hours to a couple of days. I forgot to add: heating time also depends on the voltage level in the network.

Valery:

If the floor is turned on for the first time, then it will take 4-6 hours, provided that the work on connecting the thermostat and installing the heated floor sandwich is done correctly, i.e. there is a heat shield, a heat insulator and the thickness of the mortar with tiles does not exceed the calculated values

It is also important to place the temperature sensor in the floor at the required distance from the heating elements. By the way, is the heating indicator on? That is, are the floors definitely included? If you have any questions, write

Unknown:

Tell everyone, tell me I bought a ten 16 valve but the engine takes a long time to warm up, the reason is the thermostat is new

Zhenya Eremenko:

A good article about heated floors -

Elena and Alexey:

Hello everyone, I laid the floor with an electric cable in the screed, connected the thermostat at night, the floor was heated, the cold indicator is on red! Tell me what could this be!?

Basics of microclimate regulation

After we have found out what temperature of the heated floor is considered optimal, it makes sense to understand the methods of regulating it. Currently, this process is usually carried out using automatic control systems. Such a system includes a complex of sensors and automatic valves controlled using a remote control.

A big advantage of using automation for heated floors is the fact that once you have set the microclimate values ​​you need in your room, you can not return to them for several days, as they will be maintained automatically. The manual control method involves constant manual adjustment of all necessary parameters, which is inconvenient and time-consuming.

As for the classification of such automatic systems, depending on the location of their installation, the main tasks performed by them, as well as the method of direct control, automatic heating water floors are divided into:

  • zonal or individual;
  • group;
  • complex.

Group control of floor heating indicators refers to the general control of room temperature indicators created by the heating system. Today, there are several ways to set the same temperature in several points of the room:

Thermostat for electric heated floors

  • regulating it directly at the heat source using built-in control and monitoring elements;
  • regulation at group-type mixing units;
  • regulation at individual mixing units;
  • application of the “constants” principle using a thermal head equipped with a thermal sensor, which is mounted on the mixer directional valve;
  • the use of “climate control”, implemented using programmable heat supply controllers.

From a technical point of view, the temperature here is regulated by setting the desired value on the thermostat. Upon reaching it, the sensors transmit a signal to the control panel and valves with servo drives start or, conversely, remove the coolant from the system, thereby regulating its temperature.

Installing a temperature sensor for a heated floor

Lack of power

Heating elements are connected to the thermostat, so this device should display icons so that you can find out the set system parameters. If the indicator does not work, then you need to look for a breakdown with a multimeter, with which you can determine the voltage. If it is detected, you should check whether it reaches the heating cable or film. In addition, low heating is possible when the wires are poorly connected to the terminals.

If, after successfully checking the input voltage, the heated floor does not heat, the cause of the breakdown must be looked for in the area where the system is connected to the regulator. In addition, the functionality of the thermostat can be checked in a simple way: connect the system directly to the power supply. If with this connection method the heated floor operates at full capacity, then it is necessary to replace the mentioned element.

Heating without batteries. 06/28/2015 1500

Water heated floor temperature.

The surface temperature of the heated floor ranges from 25 to 30 degrees. And the human body temperature is 36.6 degrees. That is, a person either does not feel heat at all, or feels it a little, again within the limits of comfort. When you take off your shoes and stand with your feet on the heated floor, it is really warm, but after 15 minutes you get used to it and don’t feel it at all.

According to Russian building codes, the temperature of the floor surface in places where people are constantly occupied should not exceed 26 degrees, and in places where people are not often present (distance near walls, corridors, utility rooms, etc.) - 29 degrees. But the European norm for the same parameters is 29 and 33 degrees. Since the edition of SNiP according to these data has not changed since Soviet times, most developers and owners prefer to focus on European standards.

How does underfloor heating work?

Let's start with heating and supplying water (you can also fill in “anti-freeze” - pipes, fittings and other fittings are designed for this, but you need to check whether the boiler manufacturer allows the use of antifreeze). Water heated by the boiler to 30-40 degrees is supplied to the heating system. A water heated floor is a low-temperature heating system. But you need to take into account that not all boilers can immediately prepare a low temperature coolant, for example, solid fuel or gas (except for condensing boilers), so the temperature will need to be lowered using a pump-mixing unit (autonomous circulation group) mixed with the cold liquid returning from the system.

The heated water then circulates through the pipes laid in the screed. First of all, everything that surrounds us in the room warms up evenly, then the main part of the air warms up. The advantage here is that we feel the heat evenly from all sides, although all objects and walls seem cool to the touch.

Warm floor covering.

The most ideal covering for heated floors is ceramic tiles. It conducts heat well. Other coatings are also used, such as laminate or engineered wood (the same parquet, but it won’t dry out). Cork has low thermal conductivity, just like carpet. You can use them!

Be sure to pay attention to the product labeling; usually manufacturers put a “warm floor” icon on the packaging. These coatings contain the necessary humidity so that the material does not dry out, as well as the absence of harmful fumes when heated

Is water underfloor heating sufficient for a comfortable room temperature? How to understand?

Let's turn a little to physics. One square meter of heated floor heating gives the room 11 watts of energy for every degree of difference in temperature between the floor and the air. If the floor temperature is 28 and the air temperature is 20 degrees, then: (28-20)*11 = 88 W/m2 per hour.

What should we do with these numbers now? This value must correspond to the heat loss of the room, otherwise the floor temperature must be reduced or increased.

The heat loss of a room is calculated depending on the thickness of the walls, their composition, the area and thickness of the windows, as well as the roof and other structures. If you have a very cold house, heating it will be very expensive with any option. But for well-insulated and moderately insulated people, a water heated floor for heating without radiators even in the coldest weather is more than enough. This is evidenced by the large number of finished houses/warehouses/car showrooms/warehouses/shopping centers/swimming pools with the “Water Heated Floor” heating system.

Advantages of underfloor heating.

  • Minimal convection. There is no circulation of dust and other substances, as with radiator heating. The best option if there are allergy sufferers in the house.
  • Uniform heat. There is no cold or warm place in the room, the entire room is heated evenly.
  • Pleasantly warm. Comfortable sensations associated with the direct warm flow affecting a person.
  • Warm air does not accumulate near the ceiling. The distribution of heat for human health is the most correct, as they say, “keep your feet warm and your head cold.”
  • Designer's space. All heating is hidden, no protruding pipes or heating devices.

Among the shortcomings, one can note only great inertia, i.e. The screed takes a long time to heat up and takes a long time to cool down; it will not be possible to turn off the heating completely for half an hour or an hour. But this also has its advantage. If gas or electricity is turned off during the heating season, the room will not cool down quickly, and in well-insulated houses the temperature will drop by only 1-2 degrees in 10 hours at a temperature of -20 outside (tested on myself), which makes it possible not to install a backup system.

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