Sanitary and hygienic standards for country toilets
Before starting installation work on the independent construction of a toilet in the country, you should carefully study the regulations that govern the construction procedure. There are certain requirements that must be met:
- check that the toilet does not disturb the neighbors. Otherwise, they have the right to complain to the appropriate authority and there is a possibility that the building will need to be moved;
- choose a location, taking into account all the standards and regulations for placement. If this is not done, the result will be a serious deterioration of the ecological situation in the area, contamination of the soil and nearby reservoirs and water sources. The owner of the site will have to pay fines, and health may also be affected due to environmental pollution;
- when designing, you need to take care of the issue of removing waste from the cesspool;
- When selecting a suitable design, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the site, in particular the water horizon. If groundwater is located close to the surface, you need to opt for a completely sealed system.
Attention! Following these requirements will help prevent a variety of operational problems in the future.
Choosing the location of the toilet
The main factor that you need to focus on when choosing a location is the type of building used. It is especially important whether there is a storage pit for waste, and whether the container where it will be stored will be completely sealed.
To make a toilet in the country with your own hands, it is important to know about some features of finding a suitable place:
- It is imperative to take into account the depth of the groundwater of the land plot. If the groundwater level is more than 2.5-3 meters, then the construction of a cesspool cannot be carried out. In such a situation, as a rule, a powder room is erected. This type involves the treatment of toilet waste with a special composition in the form of a powder;
- it is necessary to take into account the convenience of neighbors and residents of the house. In most cases, a toilet in a country house is built away from other structures;
- It is imperative to take into account sanitary and hygienic standards. For example, installation cannot be carried out closer than 12 meters from the house, 20 meters from drinking wells and other water sources, 1.5 meters from the fence separating the plots;
- when constructing a latrine with a drainage pit, it is important to immediately provide access to special sewage disposal equipment;
- It is advisable to take into account the terrain of the area. During operation, at the lowest point of the site, the building will be flooded in spring and autumn. When constructing a country wooden toilet at the highest point, the person using the structure will be disturbed by constant winds and drafts.
Features of drawing construction
A country toilet is not such a simple design as many novice builders tend to think. There are a number of features that are important to consider when developing a project and drawing drawings.
According to sanitary standards, a country toilet should not be located closer than 12 m from a residential building and 8 m from a well or borehole
Toilet installation rules:
- Dimensions. Consider the size of the restroom interior. The minimum allowable area is 1 x 1 m. If you save money and make the booth smaller, it will be inconvenient to use. Also, special attention should be paid to the choice of a country toilet.
- Height. There is also a height limitation. It is not advisable to build a toilet less than 2 m in height. You will soon get tired of entering it bent over.
- Roof slope. When installing a pitched roof, the rear wall is designed slightly lower than the front. This is done to form the slope of the roof and drain rainwater behind the building.
- Lighting. If you do not plan to install electric lighting, ensure that daylight enters your toilet even when the door is closed. If you don't want to bother with windows, cut at least a small hole in the top of the door.
- Ventilation. The country toilet is a poorly ventilated building. To fix this, a ventilation pipe is run along the back wall.
- Shadow. To keep your country toilet from being stuffy in the summer, place it in a shady place.
- Place on site. Another tip for choosing a construction site: avoid the proximity of a septic tank or cesspool to water intake sources, wells, and boreholes. This is done for sanitary and hygienic reasons.
If you take all these recommendations into account, it will be much easier to design a country toilet yourself.
Based on the type of waste disposal, free-standing toilets are divided into storage and portable. Cumulative options involve discharging waste products into a cesspool, septic tank or storage tank.
Toilets with a cesspool are installed at a distance from houses, water supplies and the boundaries of neighboring plots.
Remote dry toilets are plumbing devices with a small storage tank that do not require a sewerage system. The waste is collected and composted in a small container located directly in the plumbing, which needs to be emptied regularly. The pavilion for the dry closet can be located in any convenient place.
It is advisable to connect a building that combines a toilet and a shower stall to one storage tank. In this case, regular pumping of wastewater will be required as the reservoir accumulates.
A sealed storage tank, the wastewater from which is regularly pumped out, can be located 5 m from the dwelling. This method of waste collection does not threaten the environment and groundwater.
It would be wiser to build a toilet in a dacha, visited periodically only in the summer, above a cesspool without pumping. Such pits are filled in as they are filled, and trees are planted on top. The house built above it is simply moved to a new location.
The volume of the cesspool, as well as the volume of the storage tank, is selected in accordance with the number of residents and the intensity of visits.
Cabin with sump tank
Very often they create a similar structure at the dacha. The principle of its construction is that a waste pit is built directly under the house.
This is not an entirely comfortable structure, but the simplicity of the design and small financial investments in construction make this model in demand and popular.
When the pit is 2/3 full, it is pumped out. There are some disadvantages of this structure: unpleasant odors in warm weather; soil pollution.
Important! When bottom water is near the surface, the waste pit must be completely sealed to prevent contamination.
Luxury toilet cabin
Another ready-made version of a mobile toilet with pumping for builders is a luxury cabin. Its cost is slightly higher than other models, but this is quite reasonable. The design has a very rich set of components. Users will find a whole palette of accessories that are guaranteed to provide comfortable use:
- mirror
- towel holder
- toilet paper holder
- soft toilet seat
- coat hook
- liquid soap dispenser
- washbasin with sink
- secure lock
- sophisticated exhaust system
- anti-slip floor
This is a comprehensive solution for construction or turnkey production. Also among the advantages is a reinforced door secured with a reliable pin, which will not sag or break, even if the operation is not entirely accurate. The ultra-durable storage tank will not burst or crack even at very low temperatures.
With all its advantages, the cabin has a very favorable price, which is fully justified by the operational and design characteristics of this model of outdoor toilet.
Where is the best place to place a country toilet?
The optimal place is the corner of a summer cottage. It's good if it's shaded. The toilet must be located at least 1 m from the property boundaries. There are also sanitary and hygienic requirements that must be strictly observed. A toilet with a cesspool should be located 10-12 m from residential buildings, 25 m from a source of drinking water, or even further. Other minimum distances:
- 1.5 m - from berry bushes;
- 4 m - from fruit trees;
- 8 m - from the bathhouse, summer shower.
It is necessary to take into account even those objects that are located in neighboring areas. If the project provides for a sealed septic tank, it is necessary to ensure the possibility of unhindered access for a sewer truck. The wind rose is also taken into account, otherwise the smells wafting from the bathroom can greatly spoil the mood of the owners, their guests and neighbors.
Typical latrine sizes
So, the approximate optimal area of a combined toilet in a typical apartment is 4-6 sq m, a divided one is 3 m2 for the bathroom and 1.4 m2 for the bathroom. What is the actual state of affairs? The standard dimensions of a bathroom, if it is separated, in a small apartment are:
- 0.88, 1.2, 1.5, 1.7, 1.8m2 – toilet,
- 2 sq. m and 2.5 sq. m – bathroom.
The length and width of the bathroom in typical small-sized apartments are usually far from optimal
That is, the bathtub in Khrushchev-era apartments clearly does not reach the optimal size. The space in the toilet is not distributed very rationally. Therefore, combining these rooms in a small apartment is advisable. By completing this procedure, you can increase the usable area of the restroom due to the thickness of the partition and make it more convenient to arrange the plumbing fixtures.
You can arrange the plumbing fixtures after combining them in the restroom more rationally
In a typical Soviet-built apartment, the standard size of a bathroom combined with a bathtub is usually 3-4 sq. m. The area, of course, is also not enough, but it is unlikely that anything can be changed in this case.
If a storage room is adjacent to the combined bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, you can try to attach it too. Sometimes the owners of such restrooms also combine them with an adjacent corridor, creating an entrance to the kitchen from the living room.
You can increase the area of a typical restroom by combining it with a storage room
Shapes of toilets
It is necessary to select a suitable material in advance, and after this stage, do the project yourself or look for a suitable ready-made drawing.
There is a wide variety of types of wooden models. The most popular form of toilet is the “birdhouse”, but there are others that vary in the complexity of construction:
Hut house
This cabin is compact and economical. Its simple geometric shape impresses with its ease of construction, and its drawing is also elementary. The side walls double as roof slopes; construction of the above-ground part of the toilet takes only a few hours. Roofing material (for example, soft tiles) is laid on the side walls. The façade and rear wall of the structure require finishing.
Toilet-teremok
It has a diamond shape, which makes the job a little more difficult. To give a fabulous look, various carved decorations are used. The frame is lined with round timber sawn in half, ordinary overlapping boards, block house or thick lining.
Toilet combined with shower
In this case, the drawing of such a structure is the addition of a second similar diagram on one side. If necessary, the size of this cabin can be slightly increased.
Birdhouse
But those craftsmen who choose projects of maximum simplicity during construction will certainly like a wooden birdhouse. The easiest way to build it on the site with your own hands is. The pitched roof and primitive design help reduce the consumption of building materials. In addition, the roof of the country toilet makes it possible to easily place a pressure tank - a useful thing if you plan to build a toilet with a toilet.
But the design has many shortcomings. First of all, the building turns out to be shaky. In addition, it is easily blown by the wind. Finally, with heavy rainfall, moisture will likely seep inside, which will also not add comfort.
Subtleties of choosing building materials
Once the decision on the type of toilet structure has been made, you need to select the material that will be used in construction. The choice of building material is important even at the stage of drawing development.
Most often used:
- tree;
- brick;
- metal.
These are familiar materials for summer residents, which almost everyone knows how to handle.
The most common option for constructing a toilet house in a country house involves the use of frame technology.
The frame is constructed from lumber or rolled metal; the walls of the building can be solid or with ventilation gaps in the upper part.
Most often, the frames of country toilets, built from timber, are sheathed with edged boards, clapboard or block house.
The use of corrugated sheeting, which works perfectly in tandem with both a wooden and a metal frame, allows you to quickly finish finishing the frame.
The finishing of a frame building with cellular polycarbonate and plastic slate looks interesting and works excellent.
A log house looks great, but its construction will require greater expenses compared to a frame structure. Such a toilet does not need to be insulated for use in winter. Brick toilets require a massive foundation. They are not erected over cesspools due to their impressive weight.
The construction of a toilet from foam concrete blocks is much faster than using bricks. This type, like the brick one, requires a foundation and involves installing a dry closet or discharging wastewater into a storage tank.
Wood
When it comes to country house construction, the first thing that comes to mind is all kinds of buildings made of wood.
Boards and beams made from inexpensive, but quite strong and durable coniferous wood are easy to obtain, and the work does not require complex equipment. In extreme cases, you can work with wood even without the use of power tools.
Depending on how you design your toilet, you can build completely different restrooms from the same drawing. One of the options is to decorate the walls with a block house or clapboard
If you want to make a toilet not just practical and functional, but also a full-fledged decorative element at your dacha, try building it from a log house. It will take a lot longer, but the result is worth it.
A country toilet is not the most favorable environment. Wood can rot and collapse if it is not treated with special means. Impregnation with an antiseptic is a mandatory condition when constructing a latrine from lumber.
The construction of a toilet house using frame technology includes a number of traditional stages:
- Stage 1: Installation of the frame on foam concrete supports
- Stage 2: Cutting a hole above the cesspool
- Stage 3: Sheathing the frame according to the plank pattern
- Stage 4: Laying the roof covering
From bricks
The advantages of brick buildings over wooden ones are known to everyone from the fairy tale about the three little pigs.
In addition to strength, a brick toilet has low thermal conductivity, which is important if you go to the country in the cold season. A brick country toilet looks like a house with a single or gable roof. Windows can be designed.
It is not necessary to use ordinary brick. More modern block materials such as foam concrete, cinder block, aerated concrete will be an excellent alternative
The design of such a toilet includes not only a drawing of the above-ground part of the toilet, but also the foundation. In this case, it will not be possible to do without a foundation, since the dead weight of the brick building is quite large.
Without support, the soil will soon become compacted and sag, which will cause cracks in the walls of the toilet.
Made of metal
Metal is a material with a high thermal conductivity coefficient. A closet made of metal sheets will be unbearably hot in summer and very cold in winter.
Without the use of thermal insulation materials, an iron toilet in a country house can only be a temporary project - until the construction of the main toilet.
Most often, corrugated sheets are used, sewn onto a metal profile frame. In this embodiment, a profiled sheet of metal is used. Polycarbonate roof on a metal frame
It is difficult to achieve tightness at the joints of such a thin and flexible material. There will be cracks in the corners through which the wind will blow through the house, which also does not add comfort.
If you apply modern technologies and use sandwich panels as wall materials, you can get a completely comfortable restroom. Polystyrene foam or mineral wool is used as insulation.
Standards
There are different standards and norms for arranging a bathroom and toilet room. The main one is size. Taking this norm into account allows you to calculate:
- Placement of all elements for the bathroom (toilet, bidet, bathtub, etc.), as well as their design parameters; Types of bathtubs, materials and prices.
- Laying of all water supply and other utilities;
- Finishing and decoration options.
Toilets in apartments
Currently, GOSTs and SNiPs regulate the minimum area of a bathroom. As a rule, in apartments of standard high-rise buildings, a minimum or average area is used with the placement of the necessary elements: a bath and toilet with a small free space. But when constructing bathrooms of private houses and luxury apartments, this area may vary upward.
Important! If you want to remodel the bathroom in your own apartment, then there is a very important need to study the legal background of this issue. Violation of GOST construction standards will entail a fine and reinstallation to its original state at the expense of the home owner.
It should also be noted that GOSTs in each CIS state and in the Russian Federation are different. For the Russian Federation, GOSTs may differ even within a number of subjects.
The bathroom of an apartment building must be “connected” to a unified sewerage and water supply system. Therefore, all the bathrooms of the common “riser” are located on top of each other. The option of supplying water to the sanitary unit from the kitchen water supply is possible only in two-level apartments.
There is a significant simplification for owners of private houses and cottages. GOSTs and SNiP rules do not apply to construction and re-installation if the owner of a private house redesigns the architecture of his own bathroom. But this rule only applies if the owner does not connect his unit to the general sewer system, but uses his own septic tank and water intake from a personal artesian well.
The following room size standards apply for apartments:
- length - at least 1.25 m;
- width - not less than 0.87 m;
- ceiling height - not lower than 2.5 m;
- the distance from the center of the toilet to the roof slope along a straight floor surface is 1.05-1.1 m (for private houses);
- The ceiling height in the hallway in front of the bathroom is not lower than 2.10 m.
Drawings of wooden toilets for a summer residence
In order to make a wooden toilet in the country, at the very beginning you need to create a project drawing. It is necessary in order to calculate as accurately as possible the required amount of building material, clarify the dimensions of the toilet cubicle at the location and determine the sewer drainage scheme (if required).
The plan drawing of the outdoor toilet “Birdhouse” is presented below.
Plan drawing of the outdoor toilet "Izbushka":
Plan drawing of the outdoor toilet "House":
Plan drawing of the outdoor toilet "Shalash":
Dimensions of a wooden toilet for a summer residence
To determine the exact size of the toilet, you must first select the type of stall and the method of organizing the sewer drain.
For all types of toilet cubicle design, there are different size standards, which is explained by the specific features of their shape. For example, for the toilet design “House” and “Birdhouse”, taking into account the height of the toilet seat from the floor, this is 1.5 m (recess) and approximately 1.2 m (width at the base). For the design of the “Izbushka” and “Shalash” cabins, taking into account the toilet seat pedestal, these standards are 1.5 m (recess) and from 0.9 m (base width).
According to the construction rules in the “Shalash” toilet stall, the distance from the “guest’s” head to the side walls of the room should be at least 40-45 cm (if the person is standing). This fact should be fundamental when designing the angle of the inclined walls and the width of the base of the structure. As an average option, the height of the dome point of the “Shalash” cabin is 2.0-2.2 m (above the pedestal - 1.90 m), and the height of the side of the toilet seat is 0.5 m from the floor level.
How to choose the right size for your future bathroom, optimal dimensions
In order for the bathroom to be functional and easy to use for each family member, you should know the optimal sizes of bathrooms in residential buildings:
- room width - at least 80 cm;
- height - about 250 cm;
- depth - minimum 120 cm.
Having taken the dimensions, you can rationally use its area when arranging plumbing fixtures. An approach of at least 60 cm should be provided to the toilet and 25 cm to the left and right of it. For access to the sink, leave 70 cm, a comfortable height for its location is 80-90 cm. Free access to the bathtub or shower is 70-120 cm.
According to the unspoken rule, frequently used items in the bathroom should be within arm's reach.
Plumbing installation rules
Dimensions, as a rule, are not as limited as in a city apartment, so they allow you to fit any plumbing fixtures. But for multi-storey buildings it is better to choose compact models.
How to properly build a wooden toilet in the country with your own hands
The simplest, classic type of wooden toilet for a dacha, made with your own hands, is the Birdhouse toilet cubicle. It is a low building with a sloping pitched roof, a door and a ventilation window. This type of construction is easy to implement and quite economical. In addition, such an outdoor closet can be easily moved to a new location if necessary.
Technical characteristics of the traditional outdoor toilet “Skvorechnik”:
- front wall (height) – 2.3 m;
- rear wall (height) – 2.0 m;
- width of the front and rear walls – from 1.0 m;
- booth base – 1.0 by 1.0 m (standard, but more is possible);
- The roof slope angle is 25-35 degrees.
To build a wooden Birdhouse cabin, you may need the following materials:
- wooden beam;
- edged board;
- wooden lining;
- Chipboard, OSB sheets or plywood;
- board shield;
- slate (classic or plastic);
- roofing felt;
- steel metal profile.
When building a toilet in a country house with your own hands, you need to follow the following rules:
- When creating a drawing of a future stall, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the interior space so that using the toilet is convenient and safe.
- The height of the toilet house must be at least 2.0 m. A low doorway is inconvenient, since you will have to bend down before entering each time.
- When building a Birdhouse type cabin, the front part of the roof is higher than the back. This is necessary to ensure that rain or melt water drains behind the building.
- If electric lighting is not planned inside the toilet cabin, then you need to take care of natural lighting of the cabin through a small window in the upper part of the building or in the door.
- To ventilate the toilet, an open window or exhaust pipe should be provided. This is an important point that should not be forgotten.
- To prevent the toilet stall from becoming too stuffy in the summer, it is better to build it in the most shady area.
- When choosing a place for a toilet house in the country, you should avoid proximity to wells, boreholes, natural and artificial reservoirs.
The process of building an outdoor toilet “Birdhouse” with a cesspool:
- First you need to dig a hole with a volume of 2.0-2.5 m³. The pit should extend from the perimeter of the toilet stall (see drawing of the “Birdhouse” above). It is better to make the lower level of the pit with a slight slope towards the cesspool. To seal biological waste, line the bottom and walls of the pit with brick, cinder block, or concrete sarcophagus.
- Use a wooden beam (at least 10.0 cm thick) to assemble a base for the toilet stall. For this purpose, you can use concrete blocks, curbs or cinder blocks - this will increase the life of the toilet superstructure. Cover the part of the pit intended for cesspooling with wooden flooring (shield). Its lid must be treated with bitumen and covered with roofing felt to protect against moisture penetration into the pit.
- The second part of the pit is intended to place a wooden house above it. Assemble the frame of the Birdhouse booth according to the diagram.
- Then it can be sheathed with edged boards, clapboard, wooden panels or any other finishing material. Mount a toilet seat with a hole of the desired shape and size inside the booth.
- Cover the roof of the toilet with any roofing material, install a door in the front part, and cut out a ventilation window. Place the finished wooden cabin on a foundation with a hole and secure it on all sides. Close to the back wall of the toilet house, in the wooden flooring, cut a hole for a plastic ventilation pipe (diameter 10.0 cm). Insert it into this hole and secure it to the toilet wall with clamps. The lower end of the pipe should be buried 20.0 cm into the hole, and the upper end should be at least 70.0 cm from the level of the flooring (put on a protective cap).
After the toilet structure is installed, all wooden surfaces of the stall must be treated with impregnation, covered with stain, varnish or oil paint. This treatment will slow down the aging process of wood and give the building a beautiful aesthetic appearance. Following a special technology, a country wooden toilet can be tiled from the inside.
Using the same principle, you can build and install wooden toilet stalls of a different design on your summer cottage.
Budgeting references
When starting work, you need to draw up an estimate that takes into account all costs. Doing basic operations yourself allows you to significantly optimize your budget, but you will still have to buy materials. A table containing estimated prices will help you at this stage.
Using the information provided in it, you can predict at least the order of the amount you will need.
Material | Unit/capacity | Estimated cost, rubles |
Sewer pipe for external works 110 mm | 1 linear m | 125 — 200 |
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm | 1 linear m | 75 — 150 |
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm | 1 linear m | 70 — 120 |
Storage container for septic tank | 1 m3 | 18000 |
Septic tank TANK-1 | 1.2 m3 | 19500 — 22000 |
Waterproofing impregnation for wood | 10 l | 800 — 1500 |
Penetrating primer with antiseptic | 5 l | 250 — 500 |
Waterproofing mastic | 5 kg | 1200 — 1700 |
Tile adhesive CM 9 | 25 kg | 220 — 400 |
Grout for tiles | 5 kg | 600 – 1200 |
Budget tiles | m2 | 45 — 90 |
Mid-level tiles | m2 | 250 -500 |
PVC lining for wall cladding | m2 | 150 -250 |
Wooden beam for frame | Panel 6 m | 80 — 200 |
Galvanized steel profile | Panel 3 m | 150 — 350 |
Sink Rosa Standard | PC. | 850 — 950 |
Compact toilet Santek | PC. | 3100 — 3500 |
Dry toilet Thetford Porta Potti Qube 145 | PC. | 4000 — 4500 |
Biolan dry toilet (separation) | PC. | 26500 and above. |
Naturally, only some expense items are taken into account here. To complete the project, you will need a lot more materials, including various solutions, sealants, fasteners, fittings, plumbing fittings, etc.
Step-by-step instructions for arranging a toilet with a cesspool
The most ideal option in the country is to build a toilet with a cesspool. Despite the fact that it needs to be dug out, concreted and periodically pumped out, this type of toilet is preferred by almost all summer residents. The above-ground part of the toilet can be built from any material (metal, brick, old pallets). In this article we will focus on the construction of a wooden toilet.
What you need for work
To build an outdoor toilet made of wood, the following materials are needed:
- wood;
- concrete;
- sand;
- crushed stone;
- screws or nails;
- roofing materials;
- antiseptic and impregnation that increases fire safety;
- paints and varnishes;
Tools you will need:
- jigsaw;
- sander;
- hammer;
- building level;
- shovel and drill (for excavation work);
- Bulgarian.
Optimal cabin sizes
For convenient use of an outdoor toilet, it is enough to make a stall of the following dimensions:
- height 2.2 m – 2.4 m;
- width – 1.4 m – 1.8 m;
- depth – 1.2 m-1.4 m.
Drawing of a country toilet with a cesspool
Before starting the work process, you will need to make a sketch of the future building. It is necessary to indicate the exact dimensions of the building itself and the cesspool. Having a detailed drawing will help avoid gross mistakes during construction, which will not only simplify the construction of the toilet, but also save consumables and free time.
Procedure for construction
How to build a toilet quickly, efficiently and inexpensively? To do this, follow the following procedure:
- Prepare the site for construction (clear the area of debris, stones, stumps).
- Make markings for construction.
- Dig a hole and concrete it.
- Build a shallow strip foundation, since the tree is light in weight.
- Make a floor and sheathing for installing a toilet.
- Build a frame and cover it with boards.
- Arrange the roof.
- The final stage is interior and exterior decorative finishing. Since the tree is beautiful in itself, it is better to leave it both outside and inside the building. The only thing is that the wood can be covered with stain and varnish.
As you can see, building a toilet in a country house with your own hands is quite possible. The main thing is to stock up on free time, materials, tools, and prepare a detailed drawing. Having little skills in the construction industry, almost every man is able to build a street toilet from any materials that is strong, reliable and durable.
Standard sizes of bathrooms in public buildings
The minimum dimensions of a toilet in public premises are regulated by documents such as SNiP 31-06-2009, SanPiN No. 983-72 and GOST. According to these documents, the area of the premises is calculated based on the planned number of visitors.
- For the men's restroom there should be: 1 toilet for: from 20 to 30 people. (for employees, schoolchildren), from 50 to 60 people. (for visitors); 1 urinal for: from 15 to 18 people. (for employees), from 50 to 80 people. (for visitors), 0.5 tray urinal (for 30 schoolchildren); 1 washbasin for 4 toilets (but not less than 1 per restroom);
- For the women's restroom: 1 toilet for: no more than 15 people. (for employees), 20 people. (for schoolgirls); from 25 to 30 people. (for visitors); 1 washbasin for 2 toilets (but not less than 1 per restroom).
The area in relation to the number of plumbing fixtures is calculated taking into account the following standards: for each toilet or point - at least 2.75 m2, for each urinal or for every 0.75 of the length of the tray - 1.5 m2. A point means 1 toilet or 2 urinals.
The size of the sink in a public toilet is not regulated, but there must be a free space in front of it of at least 0.7 m. The dimensions of the stalls must meet the following requirements: minimum size 0.85 x 1.20 m with a door opening outward. The height of the partitions between toilets is at least 1.50 m. This is how the rules and regulations regulate the size of bathrooms in public buildings.
Bathroom dimensions for disabled people (mg)
The dimensions of the bathroom for disabled people in public buildings are also regulated by relevant documents. The minimum cabin dimensions for people with limited mobility (MGN) can be 1.65x1.8 m, standard sizes are 1.65x2.2 m.
The door must open outward and be equipped with a closer and an additional handle for the entire width of the door leaf. The supporting handrails must be located at least 75 cm near the toilet. The handrail on the landing side must be foldable.
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Wooden toilet without cesspool
Arranging a cesspool with your own hands is the simplest and most effective way to implement a sewer system. However, this cannot be done if the following conditions are met:
- shale or limestone type soil;
- The water level in the ground is more than 3 meters;
- The dacha is visited by a large number of people, therefore, a significant workload is planned.
In such a situation, the only way out would be to build an outdoor country toilet without a drainage pit. There are the following varieties of this type:
- powder-closet;
- backlash-closet;
- dry closet
In most cases, a powder closet is installed when there is a high groundwater level on the site. As a rule, the tank is located under the toilet and has a small volume (up to 18-20 l).
The basic principle of operation: the wastewater is coated with a powdery composition (most often with peat mass), which prevents the appearance and spread of an unpleasant odor. After such treatment, the sewage is transferred to the compost.
The main advantage of this type of outdoor toilet without a cesspool is its simplicity of structure and low construction costs.
- Viewing window.
- Seat cover.
- toilet seat
- Storage capacity.
- Entrance door
- Lining for support joists
- cesspool
- Ventilation window
The backlash closet is characterized by a completely sealed container where sewage and waste water are located. The wastewater in such a toilet does not enter the soil, and therefore is not capable of polluting the environment.
It will be necessary to ensure periodic cleaning by calling in special sewer equipment. The structure of the backlash closet suggests that the main storage tank can be located at some distance from the upper cabin, so such a toilet is often placed in the building.
The disadvantage is the inability to use the building in winter, because... The drains freeze and are difficult to pump out. The solution is to install a special heating system.
Dry toilets are often installed in the countryside. Their operating principle is similar to the work of powders - a closet; waste treatment is also carried out with peat. In some cases, biological preparations containing microorganisms that speed up processing or chemical agents are used.
When using a chemical toilet, it is important to use only safe products.
Classification by type of waste disposal
We have considered the structures of the above-ground part of a country toilet, which are most suitable for a private household or a summer cottage, but there is one more criterion, mentioned at the beginning of the article, by which toilets can be classified - according to the type of waste disposal.
Depending on the method of arranging a useful volume for collecting waste products of the human body, country toilets can be:
- based on a cesspool (the most common);
- backlash closet (more modern design);
- powder closet (for infrequent use of the toilet);
- dry closet
Pit toilet
The simplest option, which has a history probably equal to the history of mankind. Since the time when people learned to build cities and improve them, making them more convenient for life, simple forms of a “latrine” based on a pit with a wooden ceiling have been known to mankind. It’s amazing how durable this simple design turned out to be: this method is still widely used in rural areas, and, as in the old days, a hole filled over the years is often simply filled up, and the toilet is moved to another place where a new hole is dug.
Basic sanitary standards
The peculiarity of cesspools is their contact with the ground, so special sanitary standards have been developed to make the use of an outdoor toilet safe for others. Thus, the location of the cesspool must be designed in such a way as to maintain certain distances to nearby objects: to any sources of water - at least 25 m, to residential buildings - 12 m, household buildings - 4 m; there should be at least 1 m to the boundary line with a neighboring household or summer cottage, and the same to the nearest bush, but trees can be planted no closer than 4 m to the cesspool.
The most important condition is the height of groundwater: if it is closer than 2.5 m to the ground surface, then it is allowed to equip only isolated cesspools in the form of a large-capacity plastic tank. Otherwise, there are no restrictions and you can build a regular pit - sealed or with a filter bottom.
Construction of a cesspool
It is better to dig a hole for a country toilet manually with a shovel: in this way you can form smooth edges and give the hole a neat shape in the form of a square or rectangle. Sometimes they make a round hole. Depth - no more than 3 meters.
There is no need to dig a cesspool that is too large, as it will be more difficult to cover it later: just limit yourself to dimensions of 1.5x1.5 m, 1x1.5m or even 1x1m. A rectangular cross-section in many cases is preferable, since it allows you to organize an opening hatch on the outside of the booth (usually at the back) for pumping out sewage with a sewage truck (consider in advance the possibility of vehicle access, taking into account the length of the hose - the standard is 10-15 m, and the depth of the pit).
Whether to make a sealed cesspool or one with a filter bottom is your choice, but the second option is contrary to sanitary standards. At the same time, the cost of calling a sewer truck is significantly reduced, since part of the liquid waste (up to 40% per month) is simply absorbed into the soil. It is important that the soil is sufficiently loose and sandy, then the hole can be made not very large, especially if the toilet is not used very intensively. Conversely, dense and clayey soil with a low absorption coefficient is itself capable of retaining sewage, so the pit will have to be cleaned more often.
When the pit is ready, you need to take care of strengthening its walls. There are several most common methods:
- line the walls with red brick (silicate brick is not suitable for this purpose);
- concrete the walls;
- decorate the pit using reinforced concrete rings.
Read also: DIY gazebo for your dacha. Tips, ideas, examples + 90 photos
For a sealed cesspool, the bottom is first concreted, which is first compacted, then a 15-centimeter sand cushion is poured, compacted, and then reinforcement from wire-tied metal rods is laid on evenly spaced pieces of red brick. All this is poured with concrete with crushed stone up to 15 cm thick and allowed to harden for several (up to 10) days.
With concrete rings it may be simpler: just buy a “blind” bottom ring with a cast bottom. They also install it on a compacted sand cushion, then lay the required number of rings on top, exactly along the end. Each end connection is laid with a thin layer of concrete mortar to achieve a high level of sealing. The rings themselves, in order to avoid their shifting, are fixed with metal brackets.
Concrete walls are considered the most labor-intensive and require special skills and experience, which is probably not suitable for our purposes. Therefore, we will lay them out with bricks. There will be no difficulties here; no one will make any complaints about the quality of the masonry. Afterwards, all the seams are sealed with concrete mortar or the walls are completely plastered, if you have the time and desire to tinker for an extra half day.
Important note: if you decide to leave the bottom unsealed, a small strip foundation (around the perimeter of the pit) will be required for the brickwork. The bottom, in addition to the compacted sand cushion, is covered with an equal thickness layer of coarse crushed stone or pebbles.
Reliable flooring is an important point of safety, therefore, if you do not have a ready-made reinforced concrete slab at your disposal, use thick, pre-treated boards for this purpose. For greater strength, two metal pipes or concrete beams can be laid across the boards from below.
Toilets without pit cesspool
If high groundwater or the co-location of buildings, plantings and a well on the site does not allow organizing a regular, cesspool-based country toilet, and in some cases, if you plan to visit it frankly rarely, you will have to build one of the “isolated” types of toilet: backlash closet, powder closet or purchase a modern dry closet.
Backlash closet
A backlash closet is a stall with a toilet without a water plug and a sealed container located at a distance, which reduces the contact of waste products of the human body with the environment to zero. This design even makes it possible to install a toilet inside the house, and place a waste collection container outside the foundation of the house.
An important element of a backlash closet is a good ventilation system. In the presented diagrams we see various implementations of a toilet based on the backlash-closet principle.
Option for connecting the ventilation pipe to the drain channel, allowing you to get rid of unpleasant odors as much as possible Option with a water reservoir for the drain tank
Powder closet
A powder closet is a toilet that does not have a stationary container for collecting waste in the soil, so there is no need to dig the ground.
The whole essence of a powder closet lies in a container in the form of a special box or an ordinary bucket, installed under the toilet seat and into which this same waste is collected, after each use, poured into the so-called. “powder” - a loose composition of sifted earth, dry peat chips, ash or a similar material (necessarily natural!), which has good absorbent characteristics.
A container filled to a certain level will have to be periodically taken out and shaken out onto the compost heap.
Reliable ventilation is a necessary element of a powder closet, which goes without saying. As well as the fact that, say, for a large family and active use of the toilet, this option is of little use, and the responsibility of cleaning the receiving container is not the most pleasant.
Dry toilet
A dry closet is an isolated industrial toilet, in many ways similar to a powder closet.
To quickly decompose feces, special biological cultures or chemical components are used here, which are saturated with the peat mixture in the receiving tank.
Features of the installation and operation of a dry closet are contained in the instructions for each specific model, but the entire installation can be placed in any of the types of toilet stalls presented above.
To summarize all of the above, I would like to note that building a country toilet is, in fact, not a very complicated process; it is enough to have some skills in handling tools and materials, a desire to make a useful and beautiful thing with your own hands, and then be proud of the results of your work and creative messages, and also not to be afraid of physical labor. You can easily use the drawings presented in this article as a clear guide to action or a source of inspiration and ideas, as well as photographic examples of ready-made toilets.
About ventilation
When building a toilet for a summer house, do not forget about ventilation. The latrine should be equipped with:
- Supply ventilation. It is a small hole at the bottom of the toilet. Only done in stone toilets. Covered with a grill or mosquito net.
- Exhaust ventilation from the top of the pit. If the cesspool is planned to be covered with a concrete floor slab, then at the stage of assembling the formwork for the ventilation pipe, a mortgage is left. Asbestos-cement and sewer pipes are the most commonly used material for ventilation. They are run along the back of the cabin (outside) and secured to the casing with clamps. To improve natural draft, the pipe is placed on the sunny side and painted black. The head is raised 70-80 cm above the roof.
- Exhaust ventilation from the top of the cabin. In order not to make another head, the pipe is connected to the ventilation of the cesspool.
Interesting! A homemade deflector made from an old bucket without a bottom and a cap attached to the bucket with staples will help to increase the draft in the toilet ventilation pipe. The diagram of this original design is shown in the figure below. 1 – cap made of galvanized sheet, 2 – bucket without bottom, 3 – staples (8 pcs.), 4 – clamp, 5 – fasteners, 6 – ventilation pipe.
The first thing an owner does when building a house is build a toilet. Without this structure, even minimal comfort becomes an unattainable dream. We hope that the information and sketches presented will help you make your own country toilet project. If you have your own ideas, or find errors in the text or pictures, then please write to us. We invite theorists and practitioners to the discussion.
How to choose a toilet for a country toilet: which one is better
There are a large number of varieties of toilets for outdoor toilets. They have different weights, sizes and materials of manufacture. The most common options are:
- porcelain and ceramic . There are stationary models, and there are those that are designed for squatting;
- wooden toilet seats for a country house . Usually these are made in the form of a wooden step with a hole. You can also place a seat for a stationary toilet in it;
- galvanized _ Such instances are not always convenient. In winter they are very cold. Manufacturing requires a pipe of a suitable size and a homemade seat;
- toilet made from a chair . This design was invented quite a long time ago. To make it, you need to cut a hole in the chair cushion, or remove it completely, replacing it with a soft seat for an ordinary toilet.
Purchased options are more comfortable and convenient. However, if you don’t have to use the amenities of an outdoor toilet for your dacha too often, a budget method would be ideal.
The main difference between garden toilets and regular ones is the presence of a wide waste nozzle PHOTO: drive2.ru
Combined shower-toilet
The second most necessary building at the dacha is a shower. And if so, then why build two separate structures if they can be built under one roof. Several drawings of country toilets with a shower for self-construction are published below.
As you guessed, the structure is simply doubled in width. If you want, you can create your own project, according to your desires and needs. The drawing of a utility room with a toilet will be exactly like this. You may need to make one of the rooms a little larger. Just provide for this when planning and manufacturing supports for construction.
Minimum sizes of bathrooms
Bathrooms and toilets in apartments of different sizes and houses of different types differ in size and configuration. Determines the minimum dimensions of a bathroom SNiP (full name “Sanitary Norms and Rules”) for residential premises.
The minimum dimensions of a separate toilet, equipped with a toilet and a sink, depend on the method of opening the door in the room. The size of the bathroom and toilet doorway is 75x210 cm, the door width is 60-70 cm.
If, then for convenient use there will be enough space of 0.9x1.15 m. If the door opens into the room, taking away part of its area, then the minimum dimensions of the toilet are 0.9x1.45 m.
Warm country toilet for the winter
In winter, running to the toilet in the middle of the night, even if built with love with your own hands, is not a pleasure for everyone. Therefore, many people dream of a warm toilet.
Here we should immediately make a reservation - it will only be warm conditionally. At best, being in a building, you will be protected from snow and wind. It won't be warm here. Unless you are going to connect the toilet to the heating system of the house, install an electric heater in it, or install a potbelly stove, which you will constantly feed with fuel. So, we will try to make do with a minimum of amenities.
The main thing is to insulate the toilet. This can be done in both wooden and brick buildings. Various thermal insulation materials will work, but the easiest way is to use simple polystyrene foam. It has many advantages:
- low cost,
- light weight,
- ease of processing and adjustment,
- high thermal insulation.
The toilet is lined with foam plastic from the inside. To do this, the material is cut into pieces of a suitable shape and size - the easiest way to do this is with a simple hacksaw. If necessary, the edges can be sanded with coarse sandpaper or sandpaper. They must be even so that there are no gaps left when adjusting. The foam is attached to the walls using self-tapping screws and washers - the latter will reduce the pressure on the fragile insulation. By the way, you don’t need to tighten them too much at all - thanks to the lightness of the material, just a couple of screws can easily hold a sheet of several square meters in area. You need to insulate the walls, the door and especially the roof - heat rises and the roof accounts for the lion's share of heat loss.
When the do-it-yourself cladding is completed, for greater attractiveness the toilet is also lined with plywood from the inside. It hides the foam and reduces the risk of accidental damage. The same screws are used as fasteners.
If you want a warm toilet for your dacha, then there are certain ideas for this case too. For example, installing infrared lamps would be a good choice. They consume relatively little energy and at the same time are able to quickly increase the temperature in a small building to more or less comfortable.
Toilet in a country house
Arrangement of the premises
When making a toilet in a wooden house with our own hands, we often encounter constant humidity in the chosen room. You can solve the problem if you approach it as responsibly as possible:
For the bathroom you need to choose a suitable place (see point 3 on the plan)
- We select the room itself in such a way that it is located near the outer wall of the house, as close as possible to the cesspool. This way we will save on pipes, and we won’t have to run communications between rooms.
- If a bathroom was not included in the design of a country house initially, at the first stage we make a partition, separating it from other rooms with a frame wall covered with plywood or OSB. To make the toilet really warm, we put thermal insulation material inside the frame.
- We install a door that separates the bathroom with all its sounds and smells from other rooms. To ensure air flow, there must be a gap of at least 5 mm between the bottom edge of the door and the threshold.
- We make holes in the walls and floor through which we bring water pipes and a sewer pipe into the room. We attach adapters/taps to the walls to connect the toilet and washbasin.
Sewer pipe outlet
- We either leave the floor wooden, covering it with several layers of waterproofing composition with an antiseptic, or cover it with ceramic tiles.
To protect against moisture, we impregnate the floor with a special compound.
- We also protect the walls from moisture by treating them with waterproofing or covering them with plastic panels. In the second case, additional insulation can be carried out by placing polystyrene foam, mineral wool or foil-coated polymer fabric under the sheathing frame.
- We must make a ventilation hole under the ceiling. You can get by with a simple air vent, but I preferred to install a simple electric fan, and switched its power to a separate switch - this made forced ventilation of the bathroom much more convenient.
The simplest fan for more efficient air exchange
Option with toilet
As I noted above, it is best to make an ordinary toilet in a private house with a classic toilet and sink. Installing equipment in a room with connected communications is a fairly simple task:
Bolting the base
- First we fix the toilet. To do this, we fix a thick board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound to the floor (wooden or tiled) with anchors. We place the toilet base on the board and secure it with the included fasteners.
- We connect the toilet flush to the outlet of the sewer pipe coming out of the floor or wall using a rubber cuff. To seal this unit we use plumbing silicone.
- We install a tank on the base of the toilet, to which we attach a hose for supplying water from the water supply. Connect the other end of the hose to the tap at the end of the water pipe.
Toilet connected to the sewer with flexible corrugation
- We hang the sink on the wall in the selected location. We connect the drain elbow of the sink to a pipe, which is then connected to the general sewer circuit.
- We install a faucet either on the sink or on the wall above it. We screw hoses with hot (from the boiler) and cold water to the mixer outlets.
If finances allow, then you can install a designer sink
The entire system we have created will only work effectively if both the toilet and sink are located above the drain level. Otherwise, and also if you plan to use the sewer very actively, I would recommend additionally installing a sewer pump into the system, which will ensure forced removal of wastewater.
Option with dry toilet
It is also possible to make a comfortable toilet in the country without a cesspool and internal water supply. Naturally, a room will also have to be equipped for this, but direct waste disposal will be carried out using biological treatment systems.
Compact device that can work without running water or sewerage
Today, there are several types of dry toilets suitable for use in private homes:
Device type | Description |
Compost | Systems with partial waste disposal operate either on peat or on a mixture of peat and sawdust. When interacting with fecal matter, the material is effectively composted, and the next portions are poured into the container using an auto-dispenser. Full recycling systems work on a similar principle, but composting is performed more efficiently, and at the end we additionally receive a fairly effective fertilizer. |
Separation | During the waste disposal process, wastewater is separated into liquid and solid fractions: solid faeces are then removed for composting, and the liquid is filtered in a special unit. |
Thermal | The system requires about 5 kW of power to operate, so the toilet can only be installed in houses with a good power supply. During disposal, waste is burned to ash, and moisture evaporates through a special condenser. |
Cryogenic | Fecal matter entering the dry closet is frozen, which allows you to destroy almost all microorganisms and get rid of the unpleasant odor. The downside is that the operation of the system depends on the presence of voltage in the network, so I would not recommend such a device for a private home. |
Option for implementing a dry closet with peat powder
Even if you limit yourself to the simplest models that work on peat, you can provide yourself with a fairly high level of comfort. However, this system is unlikely to compare with a full-fledged toilet, so I would still advise considering the possibility of creating a full-fledged wastewater removal system - albeit based on a simple cesspool.
We build a toilet on a summer cottage from corrugated sheets
The process of making a country toilet from corrugated sheets is similar to the technology of making a cabin covered with boards.
The difference is that for the manufacture of the frame, a metal profile with a cross-sectional size of 40 by 40, 20 by 20 and 40 by 20 mm is most often used. The thickness of the pipe material is 2 mm.
The manufacturing process is as follows:
Step 1. The frame elements are cut to size and welded together. To ensure sufficient rigidity and strength, gussets are welded in the corners; In the absence of a welding machine, a bolted connection is acceptable. The frame is primed and painted;
Step 2. The assembled frame is installed on a pre-prepared base and sheathed with sheets of corrugated sheets;
Step 3. Floorboards of suitable thickness are laid;
Step 4. A gable roof is formed. To do this, the sheathing is first installed, and then the selected roofing material is attached;
Step 5. The gables are sewn up with polycarbonate. They will be used as windows. The base is covered with flat slate.
Advice! The interior space can be lined with clapboard or OSB, which will make the room more comfortable.
Do-it-yourself installation of external sewerage
It is necessary to lay the external sewerage network in the trench. As for its depth, it is best to consult with specialists on this issue, since the choice of deepening the trench largely depends on the climatic conditions of a particular region. If you use thermal insulation, the depth of the trench can be made small.
For external sewerage pipes are used from a variety of materials:
- cement;
- asbestos;
- ceramics;
- PVC.
The most popular currently are products made from the latest material. If an external non-pressure sewer is installed, then a prerequisite is to create a slope of 2% in the direction of the drain. It is necessary to pour a cushion of sand 20 cm thick into the trench, then level it well.
How to make insulation
The choice of a suitable insulation option must be determined in advance. Much depends on whether you plan to insulate the internal or external parts of the structure.
When planning work on the interior, remember that space is limited. Choose a material that will not take up much space during installation
It is important that it reliably protects against frost, cold and wind. Another thing that speaks in favor of insulation from the inside is that this type of material installation will require less money.
However, each case is individual.
When choosing external insulation, be prepared for more painstaking work. Due to limited space, buy thermal insulation materials whose width does not exceed 75 mm. The ideal option would be to install mineral wool sheets. To attach it, buy rectangular metal slats.
Due to limited space, buy thermal insulation materials whose width does not exceed 75 mm.
- For waterproofing you will need a film, and for cladding - plasterboard. It is best to opt for moisture-resistant sheets.
- Buy screws and profiles. They will be needed in order to make a high-quality fastening.
- To putty the joints between the sheets, buy putty.
To select the right amount of material, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the building. Installation of insulation consists of the following stages:
- Take wooden slats. Make the lathing by placing it on the walls in 50 cm increments.
- Lay down sheets of insulation. Secure them with self-tapping screws and attach them to the sheathing. The material should be placed on the walls, do not forget about the ceiling.
- Place a film on the insulation; it is required to protect the mineral wool from moisture. Secure the film with tape.
- Cover the insulation with moisture-resistant plasterboard. They are attached to self-tapping screws and mounted on a metal profile.
- Seal the joints of the sheets with putty.
If you want, you can stick wallpaper or tiles onto the drywall.
You can build a toilet by hiring a construction team, or you can buy a ready-made one.
- The cost of a “Hut” or “Birdhouse” starts from 6,500 rubles.
- A utility block with a toilet – from 12 to 18 thousand rubles.
- Delivery is possible, its cost depends on the destination and region.
How to choose an autonomous sewer system in a private house, we’ll figure it out here.
Everything about connecting to the city water supply network in a private house: documentation, work, prices, sample documents.
Choosing the size of the bathroom
A comfortable bathroom should not only contain all the necessary plumbing fixtures, but also be spacious enough for a comfortable visit.
According to SNiP standards:
- There should be 70-110cm of free space in front of the bathroom.
- On both sides of the toilet there is 25 cm of area, and in front of it - 60 cm.
- In front of the sink – 70cm.
There should be 70-75 cm of functional space in front of the bathroom
Based on this, you can calculate the optimal size of a bathroom for a city apartment. Typically, a sink and toilet in such a room are located along one wall, and a bathtub or shower stall is installed against the adjacent one. The optimal functional area next to the washing machine is 90 cm.
There should also be space in the restroom for a washing machine.
Therefore, 2x2-2.5x2.5m are the approximate optimal dimensions of a bathroom in a small private house (combined) and in a city apartment. A convenient area for a divided restroom would be:
- bathroom – 1.5x2 meters,
- toilet – 0.9x1.5 meters.
The numbers are approximate. In fact, it all depends on the dimensions of the apartment.
Optimal sizes of bathrooms in residential buildings and apartments. Photo of a comfortable room 6m2
When drafting a house or remodeling an apartment, keep in mind that residential premises, according to standards, must account for at least 80% of the area. For the bathroom, kitchen, hallway and storage room, respectively, 20% remains.
Most cottages usually only have combined toilets, the area of which is about 5-9 sq. m.
Large bathroom of a country cottage
Finishing a country toilet inside - photo
The choice of materials that can be used when finishing a country toilet is huge. Today you can use this:
- Styrofoam,
- PVC panels,
- plywood,
- clapboard
This is not a complete list of options - by visiting a suitable hardware store, it is easy to find a number of other materials, each of which has a number of advantages that make them the best choice for a particular user.
When choosing, you need to pay attention not only to the cost, but also to the ease of installation. For example, it is much easier to cover walls with polystyrene foam or plywood with your own hands. But for lining or panels it is often necessary to arrange lathing - the exception is cases when the walls are already flat.