Types of sliding doors, instructions for selecting and installing this sliding interior system


Sliding doors for arranging interior openings have gained great popularity due to their attractive appearance and practicality of use. They are a type of sliding systems in which the door leaves open, moving parallel to each other or the wall. For such movement, special roller guides are used. The most popular option for such door designs is a system with an upper guide roller and a lower one, which serves as a support.

However, there are other design solutions that allow you to achieve the required aesthetic or practical effect. Today, manufacturers of doorways and guide roller systems are trying to diversify their product range as much as possible, so that owners of apartments and houses can implement all kinds of design ideas for arranging interior doorways.

Why I was disappointed in sliding doors or Disadvantages of sliding doors

Before the renovation, our room had ordinary doors installed by the builders. More precisely, one is a simple swing door, without any frills, a white door with glass.


During a comprehensive renovation of the apartment, we decided to change all the doors. All interior doors, doors to the toilet, bathroom, kitchen - everything was replaced with inexpensive, but more or less nice swing doors. But in the living room they decided differently. The fact is that here the swing door opening to the nearest wall required quite a lot of space. That is, in this space, which was required by the open door, it was impossible to put a wall of furniture, a closet, or anything else.

Therefore, long before the renovation began, the owner’s dream arose - sliding doors. No sooner said than done. We ordered this sliding door. So that it would be inexpensive and save space.

I won’t talk for a long time about how the installers arrived and how, during the installation of the door, they dumped it on my then new cabinet and almost damaged the TV. But in the end everything worked out. And now the door has been functioning for several years.

However, it turned out that they were unable to mount it perfectly. This sliding double door turns out to have its drawbacks. Firstly, during the installation itself, the would-be installers (and, apparently, the same manufacturers) were unable to offer a good system for opening and closing the door. That is, both doors move left and right along the top guide. There is no guide at the bottom, but only things slightly fixed in the floor - limiters with a protruding head, which in theory should stay inside the groove of the sash and hold it so that it does not deviate to the sides. The complexity of the design is that these limiters should not simultaneously interfere with the movement of the valves.

However, these things do not perform their function well. Firstly, as it turns out, they somehow stay in the floor, they themselves wobble (perhaps here I would have to drill a hole in the floor myself a few centimeters deeper and insert dowels for fastening, but I never did that) , accordingly, the doors wobble.

Secondly, (also thanks to the “masterful” installation and design) when closing the sashes, their bottom constantly strives to crawl out of these lower fasteners-limiters. In the end, what do we have? — two sliding door flaps dangling at the bottom, which we try to close as rarely as possible.

The second no less serious drawback is the sliding door not closing tightly. There is always a gap between the doors. It seems to me that this will be characteristic of almost any sliding door, unless it has a special design (say, like doors in trains or subways).

That is, if you install a regular swing door (you can see Volkhovets Doors as an example), then even the most inexpensive door will close very tightly. As a result, various sounds and smells will not penetrate, and if they do, it will not be as strong as in the case of a sliding door.

This is how I was disappointed with sliding interior doors. Perhaps this experience is not a dogma. But those who are considering the possibility and feasibility of installing this kind of door in an apartment should take these points into account, pay attention to the design and reliability and ease of opening and closing the door, as well as the density provided. Well, we can assume that a regular swing door, all other things being equal, will still be cheaper than a sliding door.

By the way, one more thing - when installing the sliding door, I had to move the switch (see photo), because... in its original place it was closed by a door and it was inconvenient to get to it. True, this experience was later useful for moving the socket, which you can read about in this article.

Nick Masterov, ELport.ru

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Types of sliding systems

Open type

These are the simplest modifications. The sliding mechanism consists of roller support elements and guides. The number of the latter determines the specifics of the door’s operation, its stability in the opening and a number of other factors. Why open? The fact is that such designs are universal in installation. They can be mounted in any opening, regardless of the wall material and its structure; it makes no difference whether it is solid or hollow (that is, a partition).

With one rail

Such systems are called suspended, non-threshold, upper. They are the easiest to install, and therefore are often installed in apartments. This is explained by standard openings, therefore, the door sizes are chosen relatively small. The disadvantage is that there are only limiters at the bottom, and there is no fixation of the position of the canvas. Therefore, some difficulty arises in determining its optimal thickness, that is, mass. A door that is too light will sway in a draft. This will not particularly affect the design itself, but in terms of comfort, such a prospect is unlikely to suit anyone; periodic “tapping” will cause irritation in any person.

There is one more negative point - you can forget about soundproofing the room. Therefore, the installation of such a system has a number of limitations. For example, if we are talking about an opening leading to an office or bedroom, a sliding door is not the best option. But here you can find a positive point - hanging canvases do not interfere with the natural circulation of air flows.

It is worth noting that in such systems, not only profiles are used as a guide, but also metal rods and pipes. And this diversifies the choice of installation options.

With two guides

Such systems are called floor-standing. The difference is that the rails are fastened both at the top and at the bottom. Accordingly, the number of roller mechanisms increases. Despite a certain installation complexity (for example, the accuracy of projecting the guide axis from the ceiling to the floor when marking), such a sliding mechanism provides a number of advantages.

  • It can withstand significant load. That is, it allows you to install massive panels in the opening without any special restrictions.
  • Sliding doors are always static. If the lock is installed, the canvas will not “knock” even in a strong draft.

Closed type

Such systems are installed much less frequently. Their difference is that the doors “go” into the wall, that is, after opening, the door is partially or completely hidden in it. But this is only possible in the case of an interior partition, and of a frame type. It is hollow inside, and therefore there are no obstacles to moving the door.

  • Originality of the system.
  • Ease of use. There are no guides on the floor or ceiling, therefore, their useful area is not reduced.
  • Low maintainability. If problems arise with the limiter or sash, you will have to remove part of the cladding from the partition. Replacing the roller mechanism will also be quite difficult. Especially if the sliding door closes with overlapping panels. Their dimensions in width exceed half of the same parameter of the opening, and therefore here it is impossible to do without removing part of the cladding from the wall.
  • Difficulty of care. No matter how clean the owners are, dust will gradually accumulate in the profiles. As a result, incorrect operation of the sliding system, jamming of doors, and so on. How to remove contamination is a separate question, but it should be taken into account.

In terms of design, the hidden mechanism for sliding doors is not much different from that used in open-type structures; its composition is completely identical. It is so called because various decorative strips are placed on top, which cover the structural elements.

There is also a combined version of the system with two guides. It is mounted if heavy blades are selected that create a large load on the rollers. It is not always possible (or advisable) to increase their number. Therefore, the solution is the following - use both the lower and upper wheels as supporting elements. This allows the weight of the sliding door to be evenly distributed over the entire area. The convenience is obvious - the control of the shutters is greatly simplified. They move even with a light touch on the handle. For families with small children, this is the optimal system option.

When choosing (or making your own) a mechanism for sliding interior doors, first of all you need to take into account such characteristics as load capacity. All other factors - the specifics of installation in place, opening / closing - should fade into the background. Otherwise, even if the system is professionally installed, it will have to be repaired within a couple of months.

How to lock a sliding door?

The door does not fit into the wall, it crawls from the outside. I wish I could find some kind of factory closure. There's probably no point in hanging a photo - the door is just hanging on the wall and that's it. Who knows such (constipation in the sense)?

Wilka wrote: Who knows such (constipation in the sense)?

The Commander system has such locks, but they are for thin doors. You will need to somehow adapt them to your version.

Thanks, I googled it and it’s not the same! The lock should only close on one side, where it is located. It should not be on the other side of the door, because the door runs along the wall.

Wilka wrote: It shouldn't be on the other side of the door, because... the door runs along the wall.

If you want to make the door with minimal modifications, then find a short latch (so that the fastening screws are placed at the end of the door), and some kind of piece of wood with a hole for the latch rod to the wall.

I'll give you an idea: how to lock yourself in a train compartment?

Vladimir R wrote: a piece of wood to the wall

No way! The door crawls tightly along the wall!

2kitchenman, this is the kind of thing that you need to lift up and it stays sticking out, right? Do you know where they sell these things?

I have the same problem. I search, I choose. Look at this castle. » >

Select the cylinder according to the width of your door. If it should not protrude from the inside, then take a regular double-sided larva (without a wrap)

Wilka wrote: Nice! The door crawls tightly along the wall!

This means attaching the plate to the wall with a hole, under which there is a hole in the wall.

Wilka wrote: this is the kind of thing that you need to lift up and it stays sticking out, right?

This thing is called a latch.

Vladimir R wrote: If you want to make a door with minimal modifications, then find a short latch (so that the fastening screws are placed at the end of the door), and some kind of piece of wood for the wall with a hole for the latch rod.

It’s easier to attach the latch to the door frame perpendicular to the door leaf, and there is a recess in the door for the latch. 2Wilka A banal hook doesn't suit you?

Victorych wrote: Banal hook

don't go by design! Here are the pictures I took, look

Wilka wrote: you can't go by design! Here are the pictures I took, look

From whom did you decide to lock your kitchen with a designer lock? I’m giving away a “designer hook” “Design” from Vova [

Vova, bravo. Check it out! ***ki-***ki on the cheek! This is not a kitchen. And the bathroom, you have to close it sometimes More ***s!!

Oh, how funny they edited me! All the kissers starred!

I made the sliding door to the bathroom like this.

Only at the bottom, instead of the standard “pin”, for greater precision in closing the lock, there is a guide on the lower end of the door and a roller on the floor.

Wilka wrote: All the kisses were stars!

It’s good that they explained it, otherwise I was about to decipher what kind of name-calling this is? Are you really making this decision? I regarded it as a joke. *** inspire new “exploits”, so another option: If there is space under the tabletop at the edge, you can still put a CAP on the edge of the tabletop below, and implant something like a “thimble” into the door.

Vladimir R wrote: Are you really making this decision? I regarded it as a joke.

This joke gave impetus to further thoughts! The solution itself, of course, does not work due to the fact that I really don’t want to spoil the door, it looks good, and any pendant on it will vulgarize everything. It was your idea that prompted the idea of ​​a latch under the tabletop, which you wrote about, but it looks like it will also have to be rejected, because... The tabletop is attached to the wall only with silicone; it will not withstand tearing. Of course, no one will tear and break into a closed door, but from time to time someone will try, whether it is closed or not. Or is it not so critical? We still need to think about it. It seems that the best option would be with a “latch” recessed into the wall so that it works against the stop. But where can you get this? I probably got too excited. If we solve this problem, I will send more kisses

Types of installation of the mechanism: along and inside the wall

There are two ways to install interior doors on rollers.

When installing “along the wall,” a beam with a guide for moving the rollers is attached to the wall panel. After completing work with the mechanism, the doorway is decorated with platbands.

When installed “inside the wall,” the fasteners go deep into the panel (or its plasterboard imitation). Fastening inside the wall requires redevelopment (if not carried out during construction). The door leaf will have to go inside some kind of “garage” (pencil case or cassette), and for this you need a false wall

It is important to consider the position of the handle; it is clear that it cannot be the same as on a traditional door. A door with a drive inside the wall provides greater tightness than with the above method

Along the wall

A beam is attached to the wall. Next, a sliding mechanism guide is installed on it (rollers move along it). The rollers are attached to the end of the door (top) using a special bracket. To keep the door from oscillating, a groove is cut at the bottom end for a guide flag, which, in fact, holds the door. Then the doorway and guide are finished with platbands and extensions.

Excellent space saving by opening the door along the wall

With this installation option we get low sound and thermal insulation, as well as poor tightness.

Inside the wall

Here the fastening is hidden inside either a false wall or a plasterboard wall. This installation requires redevelopment, that is, you need to make a U-shaped groove in the wall. It is much easier to install the required groove if you are building a new wall. A hidden door can also be installed in a finished metal structure, such as a pencil case or cassette. They are first installed in the wall, then plastered or plasterboard is applied. And don’t forget that such a door is hidden in the wall, so you need to think about the correct placement of the handle.

We advise you to study - What a buyer needs to know about bed sizes

Opening the wall inward not only saves space, but also promotes greater airtightness

This option provides excellent sound and heat insulation, since the door leaf is tightly connected to the opening, hence the tightness.

Sliding interior doors: options and photos

Interior doors are one of the most important interior details. In addition to design and manufacturing materials, ergonomics play a big role in these products. The room does not always have enough space to open a swing door. In such situations, many manufacturers offer alternative options for opening the door leaf. The most popular doors with a non-standard type of opening are sliding doors, which are offered for sale in a wide range.

Sliding interior doors in stock at the outlet

Advantages of sliding interior doors

Interior doors installed in apartments and private residential buildings are a worthy alternative to classic swing doors, as they have many undeniable advantages:

  • First of all, it is an original appearance, which increases the visual perception of finishing work in a residential area.
  • Possibility of installation in narrow passages and corridors where the swing structure cannot open normally.
  • Saving space in any residential or other used premises.
  • There is no risk of the door suddenly slamming due to a strong draft in the room. There is no need to think through a fixing structure for the canvas.

Sliding door design

Disadvantages of sliding interior doors

At the same time, despite their obvious practicality, sliding curtains are used several times less often than their swing counterparts. This is due to some disadvantages:

  • The main disadvantage is the price. The design of the canvas is equipped with expensive fittings - guides, runners, roller mechanisms on bearings. Such structural and functional elements are most often supplied from other countries, which affects their cost.
  • The second serious disadvantage is the inability to ensure tightness when connecting in the vestibules. Sliding doors, “pencil cases” or “accordion” doors can fit tightly against each other when closing, but it is not possible to set even a slight pressure on the seal.

Sliding doors in closed position

  • Sliding canvases moving on rollers on runners, which is accompanied by a noise effect. This significantly limits the use of such doors in bedrooms or other living rooms.
  • If the sliding structure is made in a standard design, the canvases move apart along the partitions adjacent to the opening. This means that furniture cannot be placed near these areas of the walls.

Canvases in open state

Components of the kits

In terms of their design, the various mechanisms of sliding doors differ little from each other, except perhaps in the specifics of the displacement of the leaves. Therefore, the kits include almost the same elements; the only difference is in their number and design.

Rails

Profiles are mainly used as guides in sliding door systems.

The difference between them is the number of “tracks”. The specifics of the application depend on how exactly the canvas covers the opening: end-to-end or overlapping. In fact, these are traditional sliding doors, well known to many. When choosing a profile, the metal from which it is made also matters. For massive doors, it is better not to use aluminum (even though it is cheaper); Deformation will cause problems with sliding doors - only steel.

Roller bearings

They also differ in design features.8) The required number of wheels (and the upper mechanisms can have up to them is determined by the weight of the leaf and the type of sliding system. There are also differences in the arrangement of the wheels themselves: symmetrical or offset (asymmetrical). For doors weighing no more than 80 kg, roller mechanisms with two supports can be used But for massive canvases, at least four are installed, which is associated with an increased load on the structure.

Locking elements

They are not basic, but perform important functions. The first is to prevent a “hard” impact of the door on the wall (if the opening is located close to it) or the roller flying out of the guide. Such parts are called motion limiters. The second is fixing the door in a certain position. This is necessary in order to prevent spontaneous movement of the canvas. This is possible, for example, in the event of a strong draft or disruption of the horizontal orientation of the rails due to shrinkage of the structure.

The sliding door mechanism can be additionally equipped with automation elements (closers, mini-electric motors, cables, hooks, etc.). But they do not make any changes to the principle of its functioning; They only increase ease of use, nothing more.

Classification of sliding doors

Sliding door leaves are manufactured using various technologies, each of which has its own distinctive features, pros and cons. There are three main types of doors, all of which are described in detail below.

Sliding doors

The most common type of sliding door leaves. The design is designed in such a way that a wooden, semi-synthetic laminated, metal, plastic or glass sheet glides smoothly along the guides. The operating principle of such doors:

  • A supporting structure is fixed in the upper part of the opening - a hanging rail with a guide bar.
  • The door leaf is equipped with roller supports and a strike plate with fixing grooves.
  • The two slats are aligned with each other, and the door leaf is suspended from the straight guide of the opening in its upper part.
  • To prevent free movement, guides are also installed in the walls on the opening side. As a result, the canvas is fixed to the supporting structure of the wall at 2 points.
  • When a shear force is applied, the blade is set in motion and moves off on rollers along the supports, until the locking mechanism.

Advantages of sliding doors compared to other types of sliding doors:

  • All fittings are within sight, which facilitates maintenance of the structure. Metal elements can be easily lubricated along their entire length and, if necessary, replaced with new ones.
  • The design of the door and the technology of its operation do not require a thick wall, since the door opens and stands next to it. To use the product, a thin partition with sufficient load-bearing capacity is sufficient. Often, such structures are made of tempered glass.
  • 2 support points for each sash eliminate its vibrations from mechanical stress and wind.

In addition to the advantages, this design has some disadvantages:

  • Visible fittings spoil the appearance of the room and finishing elements.
  • When sliding, in the open position, the door takes up space next to the partition, which eliminates the possibility of installing furniture.

How to choose

Classic, or hinged, sliding doors are selected based on several key criteria. Here you need to consider:

  • the size of the canvases, determined by the dimensions of the doorway;
  • appearance (for example, the doors to the hall must match the furniture, finishing of the floor, walls and ceiling, and other interior characteristics of this room);
  • the possibility of installing one or another type of roller guide profile, which can be made in a doorway that has its own specifics (variants of sliding doors are often chosen taking into account the architectural characteristics of the opening);
  • installation location (for example, if doors are chosen for the hallway, compartments in the corridor should take into account the specifics of this space, open in a convenient direction, sliding out, not touch furniture, not cover switches, etc.)

When choosing sliding door systems, the cost of such interior products is important. On the one hand, owners do not want to overpay for famous brands, and on the other hand, in no case should they sacrifice quality. The latter is extremely important, because this functional interior device will be used intensively on a daily basis.

All parts of the mechanism, from the canvas to the rail on which the roller will slide, must be strong and wear-resistant. They must correspond to each other in terms of design and functional parameters. Thus, the strength of the profile guide must correspond to the weight of the door leaf. If the latter is made of plexiglass, then special rollers with a clamping mechanism are used.

The whole truth about sliding doors: 4 pros, 1 minus, 6 myths and 8 opinions

Clear and with examples about the difference, functionality and advantages

It would seem, what is the problem? Whichever doors you like are the ones you need to choose. But it's not that simple. Of course, you can choose any - but is it worth it?

Sliding doors are often found in the design projects we publish, and we at the editorial office like such solutions: they look beautiful and modern in interiors. But most importantly, these doors are like a lifesaver for small apartments or cramped spaces - their functionality is impressive.

This is most clearly seen in the diagram below: just think about it, saving 8 m², and only because of the right choice of doors!

However, I would like to know for sure why such doors are good and what is not so good, are they easy to use and expensive to maintain? So we asked those who use them daily about it.

We also asked for comments from designers who choose such doors for their projects, and from an expert from UNION, a company that has been producing and installing sliding doors every day for more than 30 years, since 1990.

But first, let’s figure out how a sliding door differs from a swing door and a sliding partition?

Evgeny Bobrov:

Of course, any rule has exceptions, but the main difference between sliding doors and swing doors is the absence of a frame and the presence of a sliding mechanism. In everything else - the size of the canvas, its material - they are almost identical.

But partitions are a completely different story: these are special structures that are made exclusively according to the customer’s dimensions; they can cover large spaces - up to 3.5 meters high, from 0.6 to 5-6 meters wide or more. Their main task is to zone the room and let in daylight. Therefore, partitions are usually made of glass.

Opinion 1

Nastya:

In our apartment, a sliding door leads to the bathroom. We chose it because of the very small hallway - with a regular door it would have been impossible to turn around there. At first, the door guide was installed from below, and it was very inconvenient: dirt and dust got into the rail, and over time the door movement stopped being smooth. We had to replace the structure - install a door with a top rail. Everything is great now.

Evgeny Bobrov:

Nastya is absolutely right - sliding doors with a bottom rail are made only by manufacturers who do not worry about the quality of the door or their reputation. Dust and dirt will absolutely penetrate into the bottom rail, the door will begin to creak, move noisily, and in the end it may even jam. The bottom rail can be used exclusively in wardrobes, where no one walks.

At UNION we use only reliable Italian rails with top fastening from the ECLISSE factory. There is nothing underneath, the flooring does not deteriorate. And the ECLISSE mechanisms themselves are of very high quality: smooth and silent.

Zhenya Lykasova, J. Lykasova Design Studio:

Of course, in our studio projects we used sliding doors - this is an excellent solution when there is a question of opening in a place where there are many doors, for example, a corridor or hall. Sliding doors eliminate collisions with other doors and significantly save space. And this, in turn, helps to improve the ergonomics and comfort of the room.

Opinion 2

Anton:

We have a laconic interior - white walls, white sliding doors to the ceiling. I like that they don’t take up space, blend into the space, and you don’t have to worry that a small child will pinch his finger or close himself somewhere - the doors open and close easily. The downside is that they are expensive and quite noisy; you won’t be able to quietly close the door behind you at night.

Various components also add to the price of the door: for example, decorating it with platbands or extensions, equipping it with a lock. But if you compare the basic configurations of sliding and swing doors, they will be almost identical in cost.

But as for the noise when closing, I am categorical: a high-quality sliding door should not be noisy. Manufacturers of fittings for sliding doors develop not just mechanisms, of which there are a million, but they achieve quietness and ease of closing. My advice is to choose leading manufacturers whose doors are absolutely quiet and smooth. Then there will be no discomfort.

Anton and Denis Yurov, Yurov Interiors:

We use MAGIC doors quite often in our projects. With them, it is possible not only to save square meters in small apartments, but also to create wide doorways in places where using a regular door would be simply impossible or at least inconvenient.

Is it possible to make compartment doors with your own hands? Feedback from practitioners

Domestic masters answer this question unequivocally. Many people install purchased doors themselves or buy the door leaf and components separately, and then assemble the entire structure with their own hands. In reviews there are even cases of successful conversion of swing doors to sliding ones.

In general, reviews of sliding structures are positive. Owners recommend plexiglass or plastic to make the interior light and airy. Many people prefer top rails to avoid visually cutting up the space with a stripe on the floor and not tripping over the “rail.”


Sliding door installation diagram

Opinion 3

Kate:

I've been living with sliding doors for a year and a half and, in principle, I'm happy with it. However, before installing them, it is important to know that the wall must be of a certain thickness and must be prepared in advance. If your renovation has already been completed, you will not be able to install sliding doors. And you also need to understand that sliding doors have lower sound insulation than swing doors.

For example, a sliding door along a wall does not require any preparation - it can be any wall. The main thing is that it can withstand the weight of the door at the place where the mechanism is attached. If we are talking about a sliding door into a pencil case, then yes - you need to make a wider doorway, install a pencil case for the door, sew it together with the wall with plasterboard, then paint or wallpaper it.

Regarding soundproofing. If this is the simplest set of rail and canvas, then yes - the sound insulation of the sliding door will be lower. But if we use a sliding door with an opening frame, with a special hinged post with maximum sealing, the sound insulation, although not 100% identical to the sound insulation of a swing door, will still be quite good.

Evgeny Bobrov:

By the way, the sliding door can be made completely invisible! For example, make the canvas mirror, install it on a special invisible MAGIC rail, but do not install the handle. In appearance, it will be an ordinary mirror placed against the wall - no one will ever guess that there is a room behind it.

Self-installation

It is not difficult to install sliding doors in an apartment yourself. Here you will need to choose the right guide profiles and use simple working tools. Only the installation of a cassette-type system causes big problems. If we are talking about a traditional suspended or double-rail structure, then the following steps must be taken:

  1. Preparing the doorway for the installation of sliding doors. Most often, it is already plastered after renovations in the room. But if the compartment system is installed to replace old swing doors, it will be necessary to dismantle the latter and completely finish all sides of the opening. It is especially important that its upper part is formed from dense and durable materials. If the opening expands or narrows, this is done taking into account the size of the sliding doors that are planned to be installed.
  2. Installation of guide profiles. They are screwed to the top of the opening and, if necessary, to the floor using standard self-tapping screws. The latter are attached to plastic dowels inserted into pre-drilled holes in the right places. There are only 2 nuances here. It is necessary to cut the profiles to the required width of the sliding doors, and also clearly outline the parallel placement if we are talking about a two-rail system.
  3. Installation of panels between profiles or suspension on the upper supporting rail. This is done simply, because the systems produced today take into account all the nuances of installation.
  4. Adjustment of doors if necessary. To do this, there are screws in the lower part of the canvas that slightly extend the lower rollers.

Careful use of the door will extend its service life.

Opinion 4

Varya:

Sliding cabinet doors are much more convenient, look more aesthetically pleasing, close smoothly and quietly, and also save space in the apartment - especially if they are almost always open, like mine. True, the wall itself with the pencil case is useless; hanging a TV on it will not work. Or you will have to build an additional frame of foam blocks, which is at least another 5 cm on each side.

Evgeny Bobrov:

in my opinion, a pencil case door is the most ideal design that can be installed in small apartments. When you need it, the door is there, when you don’t need it, it doesn’t interfere, and all the walls can be used to the maximum: put a closet, a sofa, an ottoman, hang a picture.

If you need to hang a TV, just reinforce the pencil case with two-centimeter plywood and cover it with plasterboard. But, of course, you need to think about this at the stage of rough repairs.

There is a wide variety of designs for pencil cases. There is a regular pencil case - one flap goes into the wall. There are double-leaf pencil cases, when one leaf goes into one wall, and the other goes into the other. There are various mechanisms - you pull one sash, and the other one closes. There are electric motors - the door opens with a button, with a remote control or using a motion sensor.

There are even designs that solve the problem of completely inconvenient or tiny spaces: a pencil case can be placed between two rooms and both door leaves can be placed into it.

Pencil cases are a separate, very interesting and functional topic. No wonder Italians love and actively use them so much!

Opening for swing door

In apartment construction, in most cases, one of the state standards is used, which determines the characteristics of materials and the dimensions of doorways. For wooden doors this is GOST 6629-88. Although some believe that it does not solve all construction problems, the standard has the status of law. And its implementation on the territory of the Russian Federation is mandatory.

Russian standards for door leaf width are presented in several versions. They start with a size of 55 cm, and the largest single-leaf interior door is 90 cm wide. A height of 190 is made for structures up to 60 cm. The rest are made already at 200 cm.

Manufacturers from Europe supply products with the following widths to our market: 60, 70, 80 and 90 cm. All door leaves have a height of 200 cm.

In former Soviet buildings, as well as in modern buildings, ordinary interior passages have a width of 80 to 90 cm. The transition to the kitchen is made 70 cm wide. And only the width of the opening for the bathroom and toilet is reduced to accommodate doors measuring 600 mm horizontally.

To get into standard sizes, the opening must be several centimeters larger than the canvas. In particular, from both sides and from above. In their own home, builders can deviate from the standards and make openings even narrower or wider than the norm. But no one will make a passage less than 55 cm wide, since it will be impossible to use it.

Let's consider what kind of opening is needed for a standard door 60 cm wide. Its horizontal size is the sum of the width of the door leaf, the thickness of the door frame and the gaps on the sides. Mathematically it would look like this:

60 + (2.5*2) + (1.5*2) = 68 cm

The height of the opening includes the vertical size of the canvas, the thickness of the box, the top gap and a distance of one centimeter from the floor:

190 + 2.5 + 1.5 + 1 = 195 cm

When calculating in a room with a rough finish, it is necessary to take into account that the parameters may change. After laying the materials on the floor, the following numbers should be added to the layouts:

  • 1 cm if linoleum is laid;
  • 2 cm if laminate is laid;
  • Up to 5 cm when laying tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Significant adjustments are also made if it is planned to install a heated floor. And in the case of connecting two different floor coverings at the junction of the threshold, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the presser foot. It is usually used to close the seam.

The depth of the door frame is standard and is 7.5 cm. This size matches the thickness of most apartment partitions. If the thickness of the wall exceeds the depth of the box, then you can use additional strips, thereby increasing the depth of the pit.

It’s rare, but it still happens when the wall thickness is less than the size of the box. In this case, there are two ways: you will have to cut off all the excess on the opening or you can choose sliding door models. For such structures, the thickness of the wall does not matter.

Sliding interior doors: types, advantages, installation

Sliding door systems are gaining popularity in interior design. Installing sliding doors solves the issue of space zoning, helps to save useful space, the element will successfully fit into any interior. More recently, buyers associated sliding doors only with a screen that moved to the side in the form of an accordion. Modern production makes it possible to create many types of sliding doors, among which the consumer will find a suitable option for his room.

Pros and cons of sliding doors

Like any solution, sliding interior doors have fans and opponents. Among the disadvantages of sliding doors are the following:

  • Such doors, in comparison with classic ones that fit tightly to the door frame, have low sound and heat insulation rates.
  • The cost of the door leaf, as well as the cost of fittings for sliding doors, is higher than traditional options. Choosing a sliding interior door will not save your family budget.
  • Despite the fact that the open door does not take up the space of the corridor, most sliding door designs do not allow furniture or household appliances to be placed next to them. Extra objects can create obstacles in the way of door movement.
  • Inability to use as an entrance door or balcony option.

However, the popularity of this design element is growing every year. It is due to the obvious advantages of sliding doors:

  • The main advantage of sliding doors is saving apartment space. A current solution for small-sized housing or an apartment with a narrow corridor.
  • A draft in the apartment will no longer slam the doors with a bang.
  • The ease of opening makes it suitable for use by children or the elderly.
  • Long service life with timely maintenance of the mechanisms driving the blade.
  • Possibility of automation of a sliding door, which is unacceptable with a classic door on hinges.

Step-by-step installation guide

You should start by installing the guides. Then mark the installation location and start fastening from the bottom:

  1. Install the guide so that it is 2 p. larger than the opening and on one side extended beyond the opening line by 50 mm.
  2. The upper guide is first attached to the beam, then installed above the opening.
  3. You need to install stoppers along the edges of the top rail to prevent the door from opening on its own.
  4. Install the handle on the sash using a mallet.
  5. The last stage is the installation of the door leaf and seal.


Sliding door with glass insert

Types of sliding doors

The main classification of sliding doors is based on the mechanism for opening and closing the door. Despite the huge range of sliding doors, there are only two types of sliding system designs:

  • Parallel sliding doors consist of one or several panels, the movement of which occurs parallel to the vertical surface. This type includes sliding doors made of one or two leaves, sliding in one or opposite directions. Cassette doors that slide into special niches inside the wall. Radius doors moving in a circle. All types have increased sound insulation, are easy to maintain and durable.
  • Sliding and folding doors consist of two or more compartments that fold like an accordion. Such types do not provide sufficient sound insulation; they are used mostly as an element of the interior design of a room.

Features of fittings

High-quality fittings are the key to a long service life. Fittings for sliding doors include:

  • profile;
  • guides, stopper. The modern design is a load-bearing suspension that can withstand heavy loads. It is convenient because there is no guide at the bottom that you can trip over;
  • rollers. Vary depending on the installation mechanism;
  • handles can be mortise or semi-hidden;
  • fastenings

Experts advise buying components made in Germany or Italy.

Installation of sliding doors

Installation of sliding doors will not be difficult for a trained person; you need to study the step-by-step instructions and purchase the necessary fittings.

  • Start by marking the guides on the wall. Measure the height of the door, add 2 mm for the gap between the door and the floor. Don't forget about the height of the assembled roller mechanism and the guide itself. At the resulting height, mark several marks and connect them with a straight line. Be sure to check the level of the line using a building level to prevent the doors from opening and closing independently in the future.
  • Attach the guides so that their upper edge is under the marked line. Calculate the length of the guides based on the length of the door leaf, plus 5-7 cm. This method will help prevent the door from sliding off the guide when opening.
  • Install the roller mechanism inside the guide. If the door has one leaf, you will need 2 rollers; if there are more leaves, purchase rollers for each of them.
  • Install counter brackets for the roller mechanism on the door leaf. A bracket on the top is enough; if the door is glass or simply heavy, an additional bracket will be required on the floor side (and an additional guide accordingly).
  • Place the door leaf in the guides. With the help of an assistant, lift the door and tighten the bolts on the brackets.
  • Install trim and door hardware.

Sliding interior doors will not only save useful space in the apartment, but will also perfectly complement the stylistic design of the interior.

Roller mechanism

The roller mechanism is a supporting beam to which the guide is attached. The rollers to which the door leaf is attached move along this guide. The main advantages of such a system include the fact that the door has no threshold. But it is only suitable for installing light-weight door leaves.

Thanks to the installation of a roller mechanism, the door leaf smoothly opens in the desired direction. When choosing rollers, you should take into account the total weight of the door leaf and the number of leaves. When installing glass or wooden doors, durable rollers are selected. Since this design is heavy in weight and creates a large load on the mechanism. And canvases made of MDF or plastic are quite light and ordinary and inexpensive roller mechanisms are suitable for them.

Cascade doors are more difficult to install. Since they have several guides. For each individual web in such structures, a separate roller system is provided.

When installing lightweight door panels, it is enough to install a one-way mechanism at the top of the doorway. And for heavy doors, floor guides must be installed to ensure strong fixation of the door and safety of its operation.

The installation process of sliding systems with a roller mechanism is quite simple and consists of the following steps:

  1. The top rail is attached.
  2. A roller mechanism is screwed to the upper end of the canvas.
  3. The canvas is rolled into the guide.
  4. Stoppers are installed on top to prevent the door leaf from falling out.
  5. Next, the doors must be opened to install the lower roller into the groove, which is fixed to the floor.

That's the whole simple process of installing a roller sliding system. Typically, such designs are used to zoning space into separate functional zones. Since they simply block the passage, but have very low sound insulation performance.

Steps to install a sliding door into a wall

There is so little space in a small apartment that even the opening of the interior door creates inconvenience. Sliding systems help to partially solve the problem, but the canvas extending behind the partition interferes with the installation of furniture. The best option is considered to be a cassette design, which provides for the sliding door to be rolled back into the wall using a pencil case.

How does a cassette sliding system work?

According to the principle of operation, cassette interior doors are no different from designs that require the door to be rolled back behind the wall. The mechanism consists of rollers and guide rails. The main difference is the ability to hide the door leaf inside the wall. This design is called a cassette or pencil case. It is made in the form of a flat box, replacing part of the wall. In addition to the sash, guide rails and a roller system are hidden inside the cassette.

The benefit of a pencil case for sliding doors is the creation of free space inside the wall; the door that rolls back into the cassette does not interfere with installing furniture close to the interior partition. The pencil case protects the door leaf from dirt, scratching by pets and other damage.

For normal operation of a sliding door, a wall thickness corresponding to the parameters of the cassette is required. The structure should form a niche that does not protrude beyond the plane of the pier. In the sliding system, the thickness of the sash and the side posts of the pencil case, as well as the gaps between the elements for the free movement of the canvas, are taken into account. The width of the cassette is always made twice as large as the doorway. The half, intended for rolling back the canvas, is hidden behind a false plasterboard wall.

What to pay attention to when repairing

Incorrect installation of the guides complicates the operation of the sliding system mechanism. The doors do not open so quickly, periodically falling out of their grooves. When installing the guides, you need to remember that the lower part will accumulate debris. There are sliding structures without bottom rails - they last longer because the likelihood of clogging the mechanism is minimized.

Two guides are important when reliable sound and heat insulation is needed between rooms. When replacing handles, take into account their shape: the protrusion of the fittings beyond the surface of the door should be minimal.

Replacing the roller mechanism

The number of rollers may vary depending on the mass of the sashes. Different models have different load capacities. They are made of metal or plastic. Under the influence of constant friction, plastic rollers wear out or crack. At the same time, the axle on which the wheel is attached may become thinner. Any repair methods do not give results (for example, gluing, securing with tape), so the roller mechanism must be replaced.

There are types of wheels with rigid mounting that cannot be repaired. After some time, such a node completely produces the intended resource. The moment of necessary replacement of the mechanism is determined by the degree of sash subsidence.

A large assortment of rollers makes it difficult to select them. In order not to make a mistake when purchasing, it is recommended to take one wheel to the store for comparison. In shower stalls, the upper and lower wheels often differ in size, so take both mechanisms with you.

Replacing guide rails

The rail mechanism includes upper and lower guides - these are panels along which the doors move. For light structures, one rail is sufficient; heavy doors are secured using two guides. This prevents the web from moving to the side.

Do not resort to replacing the rail mechanism in case of contamination of the grooves. To clean them, remove the doors and remove all debris from the grooves. The work is performed with a sharp thin tool (screwdriver, knife). The cleaned guides are degreased and the sashes are installed in place.

Stoppers on the rails prevent the doors from extending beyond the structure. When they break, the door does not fit tightly to the frame or opens spontaneously. The malfunction is eliminated by adjusting the latch.

Most often, replacement of rails is necessary for sliding automated systems. Such structures are installed in technical rooms and shops, so the grooves quickly become clogged with dirt and debris.

Repairing sliding doors does not require any special skills. Accuracy and the availability of the necessary tools are important.

Source: vseodveri.ru

Varieties and features

All sliding systems are identical in design. They may differ in dimensions, material, design of rollers and guide rails . The dimensions adhere to standards that imply a door height of 1.9–2 m and a width of 0.6 to 1 m. For large openings, built-in double compartment doors are installed in the wall. If you need to deviate from the standards, the cassette is made to order in the required sizes.

The factory design is supplied in its entirety. The pencil case is already folded and ready for installation. When manufactured independently, the cassette is assembled from a thick board, timber, or galvanized profile. The door leaf can be adapted to any suitable size.

Of the additional devices, the system is most often equipped with a door closer . The mechanism creates a smooth closing of the sash. For complete convenience, the sliding interior door, hidden in the wall, is equipped with automation. The canvas opens when a person approaches and closes after he passes through the doorway. The automation is triggered by sensor signals. The canvas is moved by an electric motor.

Automation is rarely installed in residential premises due to cost and impracticality. Autonomous systems are in demand in stores and other buildings where a large flow of people passes through the day.

Features of repair depending on the design

In accordance with customer requirements, 2 types of structures are installed: with and without a pencil case. Each type of repair has its own characteristics.

Door with pencil case

The design with a pencil case is similar to a video cassette. During installation, the inner part of the wall is removed and framed in a rigid box. A sliding system is installed inside. The canvas slides into the freed space like a cassette that is hidden in a box. The resulting recesses are covered with sheets of plasterboard, and then with finishing building materials - plaster, paint or wallpaper.

When repairing an automatic sliding door, the owner can remove the door leaf. This advantage avoids damage to parts. The rails are adjusted using a level. The guides are placed strictly in a horizontal position, otherwise the structure will warp and stop closing.

When replacing parts, you need to take into account the dimensions of the pencil case. The block must exceed the dimensions of the sash if it goes completely into the frame. The door is mounted at a height of 5-6 mm from the floor - this will ensure maximum sound insulation.

External sliding door

The external sliding type includes systems in shower stalls. Natural wear and tear of elements is accelerated by aggressive detergents and hard water. Under their influence, lubricant is washed out, small holes become clogged, plastic cracks, and corrosion appears on metal parts. When replacing rollers, the cabin pays attention to their type. Fixed mechanisms are used in square and rectangular booths, rotating ones - in round ones.

Sliding opening systems are also installed in wardrobes. Repairs are carried out using the adjusting feet under the bottom bar of the housing.

Main advantages and disadvantages

When deciding to install a sliding door in a pencil case, you need to weigh all the pros and cons of the design. an advantage :

  • Space saving. The absence of a swing sash eliminates the formation of a dead zone. You can place furniture close to the wall and it will not interfere with the opening of the canvas.
  • Reduces the likelihood of injury. A person walking in the dark sometimes hits the end of an open swing door. The sensations are unpleasant and sometimes dangerous. No matter how hard you try, you won’t be able to hit the end of the sliding panel.
  • Increased service life. Due to the rollers, the weight of the door leaf is evenly distributed across the frame lintels. The box becomes more resistant to loosening and does not warp. The linen hidden inside the pencil case is protected from pets and will not be smeared by children.
  • The sliding design visually expands the space , creates a zoning effect, and emphasizes the modern style of the interior.

The disadvantage is the high cost . A high-quality roller mechanism is expensive. Additionally, the costs of purchasing or manufacturing a pencil case are taken into account. It is difficult to install a cassette for a sliding door yourself. If you have no experience, you will have to hire specialists.

Another disadvantage is the reduction in sound insulation . There is a gap at the bottom and top of the end of the door leaf. It will not be possible to ensure silence in the room. Additionally, odors will penetrate from the kitchen through the gaps. The problem will have to be solved by installing a powerful hood.

When installing a sliding structure is justified

And, nevertheless, sliding doors have not yet disappeared from stores, which means that their shortcomings can be taken into account under certain conditions. Such situations, when installing a sliding door is really advisable, arise due to planning errors, when all four door opening zones are occupied by furniture, household appliances or plumbing fixtures. As a rule, this occurs when placing a door in the middle of a wall, but if the doorway is moved into a corner, at least on one side there will always be a place for an open door leaf, because there is inevitably a passage area where installing furniture makes no sense.

Another opportunity to choose a sliding door type is when complete isolation of one room from another is not required. This applies to dressing rooms or bathrooms adjacent to the bedroom. In this case, the purpose of the door becomes purely formal; it only prevents direct visual contact, while the difference in the heights of the door blocks, as a rule, is resolved by abandoning the upper casing or slope in favor of a false frame.

The possibility of installing a sliding door is always associated with the possibility of constructing a niche in which this door is hidden. Otherwise, there is no gain in terms of saving space: neither furniture nor any household utensils can be correctly installed in front of the open canvas, and the level of sound insulation will be zero. At the same time, when closed, the upper casing protrudes away from the door, which looks ridiculous. And even this installation option may be unacceptable: dust accumulates in the cavity of the false wall, which is unacceptable if any of the residents suffer from allergies.

You need to know that in certain cases a sliding door can be a replacement for a swing door, even if not a complete one. The configuration of the room and the layout dictate their conditions; sometimes in order to open the sash normally, you have to reduce the width of the opening to 60–50 cm, which is extremely inconvenient. If the door is not formal, it is allowed to use sliding fittings, but of a special type. We are talking about imported products, including a low-speed movement mechanism, devices for pressing a closed leaf, as well as special multi-row brushes, which are only slightly inferior in sound insulation to a swing door. There is only one downside to such hardware kits - the exorbitant cost, so it is always better to think repeatedly about the possibility of moving the opening closer to the corner or changing the layout.

Do-it-yourself cassette door installation

Before you start making a pencil case for a sliding door, determine the width of the opening. The design of the entire system will depend on this parameter. There are two types of cassette coupes:

  • Single leaf. Door blocks are designed for standard narrow passages to the bedroom, kitchen, and bathroom.
  • Bivalve. Door blocks are designed for wide passages. Often such openings are installed in the living room or when combining rooms. The design consists of two separate cassettes installed on opposite sides of the aisle. The result is combined single-leaf systems, where each leaf rolls back in the opposite direction.

When making a pencil case for sliding doors with your own hands, take into account the type of wall. The usual non-load-bearing interior partition is completely dismantled. In its place, a structure with a niche is being erected. A sliding door with a plasterboard partition forms a false wall, which is a cassette. The construction of a new wall allows you to save useful space by maintaining the original thickness.

A load-bearing wall cannot be dismantled. The frame of the pencil case will have to be attached to the surface and covered with plasterboard on top. The result will be a double thickening of the wall and a reduction in space, but there is no other way out.

The cassette compartment door is installed after the finished floor has been installed. By this time, the final leveling should be completed, and the thickness of the floor covering should be taken into account.

Installation procedure

  1. In order for the design of an interior compartment door to be made without errors when you make it yourself, you will need to draw a drawing and then transfer it to the wall. Using markings, they determine which areas need to be dismantled.
  2. When drawing up a drawing, you need to calculate the dimensions of the sliding door cabinet. Measurement starts from the sash. Its width is multiplied by 2, which determines the length of the guide rail. The height of the racks of the pencil case is calculated taking into account the thickness of the jumper, the guide, as well as gaps of about 5 mm at the top and bottom of the end of the canvas. The pencil case is made 2 cm wider than the sash. The depth of the cassette is usually limited to 8 cm.

  3. After performing the calculations, the dimensions of all elements are indicated on the drawing. To make a false wall, a profile is prepared. If the pencil case is mounted on a load-bearing wall, then you will need one row of racks. When assembling a false wall, instead of the removed partition, two rows of supports are installed to form a niche. The length of the racks is equal to the distance from the floor to the ceiling, since profiles are attached in these places.
  4. An upper jumper is installed inside the niche, and a guide is fixed to it. A similar element is mounted to the floor. It is advisable to place a rubber band under the rail to dampen the sound of moving rollers.

  5. The assembly of the sliding system depends on its type. Rollers can be located on both sides of the sash or only on the upper end of the leaf, and a guide knife is attached to the bottom. After installing the roller mechanism and fittings, the sash is hung on the rail. There should be a gap of 5 mm between the ends of the blade and the guide element.

They try to roll the hung door on rollers. The movement should be smooth, easy, without rumble or jumps. It is important not to forget about the limiters that serve as a stop for the sliding sash.

After successful testing of the sliding structure, the niche frame is sheathed with sheets of plasterboard. Further actions are aimed at decorative finishing of the false wall and framing the ends of the cassette, forming the door frame.

Installation of a sliding door in a room

Installing a sliding structure is not so difficult on your own. To do this, you only need to have some skills in working with power tools.

The most commonly used version of the system is when the door leaf moves along the doorway. Before installing a sliding door, it is necessary to trim the doorway. Several methods can be used for this:

  • plaster;
  • drywall;
  • ceramic tiles, etc.

One of the most common methods of preparing an opening for the installation of a sliding door is the installation of a false box, which performs only decorative functions.

Video - Installation of sliding doors

Table. Tools and devices necessary for the work.

NameIllustration
Screwdriver
Drill
Hammer
Saw (manual or electric)
Level, plumb
Tape measure, square, pencil
Hardware

Prices for popular drill models

Drill

The technology for fixing such a structure is as follows.

Step 1. Based on preliminary measurements of the doorway, a U-shaped structure is assembled. For this purpose, sections of MDF or laminated chipboard panels are used.


Assembling a U-shaped structure

To make the desired product, you will need a screwdriver and European screws (confirmats), which are ideal for assembling structures from thin-walled parts.

Step 2. Hammered wooden wedges will help secure the false frame in the doorway.


Wooden wedges get clogged

It is necessary to check the installation of the box using a level and plumb line. The alignment of all elements largely determines the reliability and durability of the installed door system.


The position of the box is controlled by a plumb line

Step 3. Technological gaps (gaps formed between the box and the opening) are filled with polyurethane foam. For work, a construction gun is used, into which a cylinder with a polyurethane composition is inserted.


The gaps are filled with polyurethane foam

Prices for polyurethane sealant

Polyurethane sealant

After the preparation has been completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of a sliding single-leaf door.


Door slopes

Brief instructions for installing the canvas

First stage. Installation of rollers. Two mechanisms (if the door weight exceeds 60 kg, four pairs of wheels will be needed) must be fixed on the upper end of the leaf. The set of products, in addition to the rollers themselves, with the help of which the door will move along the guide, includes a mounting strip that is fixed to the door leaf, hardware (screws) and stoppers.


What you need to install the rollers

To fix the rollers, you must first apply marks and drill holes for fastening.


Trying on rollers

Second phase. Installation of the handle. To be able to easily operate the sliding structure, you need to attach a mortise handle.


Handle installation

Third stage. Installation of the guide. A support block is installed above the doorway (metal corners can also be used to secure the mechanism). To do this, you will need self-tapping screws with dowels, which must be recessed into the holes made in the wall.


Installing the support bar

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