How to change a toilet in an apartment with your own hands: dismantling and installation

In this article we will figure out how to dismantle the toilet with your own hands, if possible without causing any damage to it.

We will analyze two main scenarios: for a toilet that is installed on standard fasteners, with screws to the floor; and for a toilet that is simply mounted on adhesive mastic. It is this method of fastening that installation organizations often use when commissioning a new house.

To make repairs, you first have to destroy something.

Dismantling the toilet

What removing an old toilet looks like depends on how it was installed and whether you want the old set intact.

Screw installation

The simplest dismantling operation is when the compact was installed on standard fasteners, and the outlet is connected to the sewer socket with a rubber seal or cuff.

1. Remove the decorative caps on the top of the sole. Under them you will find screw heads for a screwdriver or open-end wrench.

The fastening screws are hidden under the caps on the sole.

1. Unscrew the screws (there are 2 or 4).
2. We pull the outlet out of the socket. It is done.

Installation on taffeta

In post-war construction, it was widely practiced to install kits with an upper tank on taffeta - a thick board laid in a recess in the ceiling.

The main problem is that the outlet is usually caulked into the sewer socket.

How to dismantle a toilet intact?

1. Armed with a strong screwdriver and a small hammer, break up the cement putty around the outlet.
2. Using the same screwdriver, we try to extract the maximum amount of bonding from the socket - the oiled organic fiber with which the joints were minted.
3. Then we unscrew the screws (or simply pull them out of the rotten board) and, slightly shaking, pull the outlet out of the socket.

Before installing a new set, the taffeta is removed and the excavation is concreted.

Installation on cement

Installing and dismantling a toilet with cement mortar leaves little chance of reusing it. Covered with solution to the entire depth of the socket, the outlet usually splits when trying to remove it.

If you still want to try, go ahead.

1. Use a screwdriver and hammer to knock out as much cement as possible from the socket.
2. Then, with moderate force, we kick (with shoes on, of course) from the bottom up under the bowl in front. After one or two blows, the sole will be released. Whether the issue will survive depends entirely on luck.

A particularly difficult case: the base is completely concreted. It will have to be cut out of concrete.

Tips for removing an old toilet

If your plans do not include a major renovation of the room, changing the flooring, and you want to leave the toilet itself intact, then you will need to remove it extremely carefully. Toilets, especially in older houses, stay very firmly in place. After all, due to the passage of time, the fasteners are all rusted and it is simply impossible to twist them. Whatever one may say, you will have to remove several tiles.

If the joint and the pipe are filled with cement, then you need to use a crowbar or a chisel with a hammer.

Carefully chip off the cement composition near the base and outlet.

If the toilet is on a wooden base, then it needs to be knocked away from the bowl. Once the base is removed, the remaining fasteners should be removed.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult about dismantling the toilet yourself. Prepare everything you need and you will certainly succeed.

Preparation of communications

• Sewerage. The place where we will connect the toilet flush must be thoroughly cleaned of various salt formations and debris. Otherwise, the corrugation or corner that will connect the toilet to the sewer riser will not fit tightly in the sewer outlet and the leak will have to be repaired.
• Water pipes. In the place where we will connect the cistern, it is necessary to install a tap in order to be able to repair or clean the toilet without completely turning off the water.

general information

Removing the toilet is a quick and easy process. The main thing is to be aware of what and how to do. Before dealing with the question of how to remove a toilet, you need to clarify how it can be installed. Today, a huge variety of types and types of toilets are produced in terms of shape, material, size, design and type of fasteners in place.

There are three types of toilets depending on the installation method:

1. Floor.
2. Suspension.
3. Added.

In private apartments and residential buildings, the overwhelming majority use models of the first type. Therefore, this article will discuss in detail the option of how to dismantle a floor-standing toilet. New homes often use attached and suspended structures. They are also popular in office and other commercial buildings.

In addition to the type of plumbing fixture itself, other important factors can affect the nature of the work:

• location of the cistern;
• finishing the floor in the toilet;
• bathroom area node;
• the nature of the drain and the location of the sewer pipes;
• type of water supply to the cistern.

Do-it-yourself toilet dismantling can be divided into four stages:

1. Preparatory – inspection, selection of tools and new plumbing equipment.
2. Working with the water supply system.
3. Direct dismantling, separation from the sewer.
4. The final stage is the installation of a new toilet or temporary “preservation” of the network.

To carry out the work you will need the following tool:

• small crowbar;
• narrow chisel;
• hammer;
• wrenches of various diameters;
• pliers;
• fabric rags or sponges;
• latex gloves;
• disinfectant;
• plug (diameter must match the size of the sewer pipe) or fabric gag.

If you change the device yourself, you must wear rubber gloves to carry out all work, since when installing the toilet you can get damaged and get infected. It is better to protect yourself from such troubles.

It is imperative to wear rubber gloves when dismantling the toilet.

Dismantling the old structure

Before starting work, you should prepare buckets and a large amount of rags. We start by disconnecting the water pipe from the drain tank from the device. Drain as much water as possible and unscrew the tank. The toilet is ready for dismantling. If it is very old, then most likely it was installed with mortar. In this case, you need to prepare for the fact that it will not be possible to remove the device intact. Especially if its neck is packed with rags with paint.

Among the recommendations on how to remove the toilet more easily, you can find advice to start work from the drain neck. This is true. It is best to hit the neck hard and, after splitting it, disconnect the device from the pipe. In addition, the vibration from the impact will somewhat rock the base of the structure, fixed in the solution, which will facilitate further work.

Important note: Do not hit directly on the drain pipe. If it is cast iron, which is the case in most cases, it is very easy to split, which will lead to additional problems

Shards of the old toilet should be carefully removed. We clean the neck of the waste pipe from contaminants, otherwise it will be impossible to carry out a high-quality sealing of the new device

Having broken the neck, we begin to disconnect the device from the floor. If it cannot be rocked and does not move, take a hammer and use a chisel to start chipping the structure away from the base. It is quite possible that as a result of this work, water will flow from the broken device. It needs to be collected with a rag in a bucket. We break off the fragments of the toilet bowl, remove the remains of the mortar in which it was fixed and, if possible, level the floor. We clean the edge of the drain pipe from fragments of the neck. It is best to do this with old screwdrivers or use a chisel. We perform the operation very carefully so as not to damage the pipe.

Installation process of a compact toilet

In order to replace an old device with a floor-standing product of the “compact” type when installed on a tiled floor, you need to use a step-by-step description of how to replace a toilet yourself:

1. First of all, determine the location of the new device. The bowl is placed in the bathroom without fastening. You need to try to sit on it. It is advisable to try on several options.
2. Once the exact location is known, the base of the bowl is outlined with a washable marker. It is also used to mark the places where plumbing fixtures will be attached.
3. The product is put aside, and after that all the necessary marks remain on the floor. Then, using a drill with a 12-bit drill bit, holes are drilled in the tiles. If the surface is concrete, then it is better to beat it with a drill number 12. Dowels are inserted into the prepared holes.
4. Then they take a corrugation or cuff to connect the outlet of the device to the sewer system. The connecting element is placed in place, having previously treated the joint with sealant.
5. The new bowl with corrugation is installed correctly. Bolts are threaded through the mounting lugs and screwed in using an adjustable wrench. The main thing is not to overdo it when performing this work and not to damage the ceramics.
6. The device is connected to the sewer pipe, treating all joints with silicone.
7. A tank is installed on the bowl.
8. The elements are connected with bolts and the container is connected to the water pipe.

Finally, all joints and threaded connections are checked for leaks. If no deficiencies or deficiencies are found, you can use new plumbing equipment.

The process of how to change a toilet of this model yourself is simple, since modern products are designed in such a way that when they are replaced, the floor covering remains intact.

Self-installation of plumbing “step by step”

For normal operation, the toilet needs a flat, tiled or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

First, we connect the toilet flush with a corrugated pipe to the outlet of the sewer riser pipe. You can also use a rigid pipe. The best option is if the toilet flush enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber edge

It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

To inject water, you need a flexible, fairly long hose that connects the tap that supplies liquid from the water supply to the tank of your plumbing. Pay attention to both inlet diameters in order to select a hose with two suitable fasteners

Obviously, there is no way to screw a 3/4” thread onto a pipe with a diameter of 1/8”.

If the drain is securely connected, you can begin securing the plumbing.

We fix it to the floor: 3 types of fasteners

1. The first option for floor installation is anchors embedded in the screed. While pouring the floor, long anchors are secured at the place where the toilet and its mountings will be located. After the screed has dried and the floor has been finished, the toilet is attached to the anchors. This is the most difficult method of fastening, since it is difficult to install the anchors so evenly that the toilet sits on them without problems. It often happens that inexperienced builders choose anchors that are too short, and then they cannot screw the nuts onto them. The anchor embedded in the floor must be at least 7 cm above the finishing surface in order to screw the toilet to it. Spacers are required under all nuts to prevent the surface of the toilet from cracking.
2. The second option for securely fixing the toilet to a surface during a toilet overhaul is installation on a wooden base. The main thing is that the board strictly matches the size of the toilet base. When pouring the floor, the board is prepared by driving nails into it. Then it is placed in the solution with the nails down. After the screed has dried and the room has been finished, the toilet, previously placed on a layer of epoxy resin, is screwed to the board using ordinary screws. They also need rubber or polymer gaskets under them.
3. Fastening to the floor when anchors and boards are not provided. To install plumbing fixtures on a finished surface, say, on tiles, it is convenient to use dowels. The toilet is placed in the place where it needs to be installed. Its attachment points are marked on the floor. Then they need to be drilled deep enough, but without touching the waterproofing layer in the screed. Before installing the toilet, you need to increase the security of the installation with epoxy resin/sealant. It would be a good idea to pour a drop of sealant into the holes drilled for the screws. On an epoxy cushion the toilet will stand like a glove. Spacers for screws are also needed.

You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, just using resin. However, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue sticks better.

When using epoxy, it is important to allow the newly installed plumbing fixtures to dry thoroughly and adhere to the floor surface.

Mounting the toilet to the wall

How to install the installation

Wall-hung toilets are being used more and more often. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame, which is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. In this case, the toilet tank and pipes are located behind a false plasterboard wall. If the wall-hung plumbing fixture has an open tank, then you can fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be held in place by the same anchors embedded in the wall or supporting frame.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

After fixing the toilet bowl to the wall or floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fastened, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is connected to it.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

All that remains is to check if the toilet works and if there are any leaks. Turn on the cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. We wash it off and see if there is any leakage from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you can probably handle it yourself.

Bathroom renovation in Khrushchev

There will be many technical issues. With such a small area, it is in Khrushchev that the visual design of the bathroom fades into the background. We will also analyze it, but everything is in order.

Plastering walls on beacons

Khrushchev buildings have the most crooked walls, and the corners do not live up to their name at all. in fact they are round. It is clear that adequate renovation of a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building should be on a budget and you need to save on some things. And I’ll tell you what you can save on, but it’s not plaster . The walls can be covered in all planes, plus have bumps and depressions. In other rooms, this may not be so bad, but in the bathroom we tile the walls and put a bathtub next to them. Curved walls simply cannot be properly tiled, and a bathtub installed with gaps will destroy the entire appearance.

In those days, the issue of the curvature of the walls and the placement of the bathtub was solved with such a poor baseboard. This is unacceptable for modern design.

The size of the bathroom is small and plastering will not cost much, but it will slightly reduce the area. There is nowhere to go. We level all the walls and take measurements again. By the way, many people think that the smallest bathtubs are cast iron. In fact, they are acrylic. Read about standard bath sizes and which bath to choose.

No gaps

The bathroom is a place for hygiene procedures, and at the subconscious level, cleanliness and neatness in it are already perceived as beauty. Objects will be located very close and our task is to make the interior as monolithic as possible. An example of a bathroom from Korea, where the apartments are very small and the bathrooms are even smaller than in Khrushchev buildings:

At a minimum, tile the bathtub, hang the cabinet and choose an overmount sink on the countertop (since the countertop can be ordered exactly to size). For ease of cleaning and unloading the washbasin, it is better to mount the toothbrush glass on the wall. In general, try not to let anything just stand in plain sight.

Because Most bathrooms in Khrushchev-era buildings are combined with a toilet; to implement a modern design, it is strictly necessary to choose a wall-hung toilet with an installation. If the renovation is very budget-friendly, look for promotional options, they are almost always available. Even the cheapest wall-hung toilet is better than any floor-standing one.

Ventilation in Khrushchev

Bathrooms in Khrushchev-era buildings often suffer from mold and mildew. You can be guaranteed to protect yourself from this problem if you initially approach the layout correctly. In Khrushchev, ventilation was designed for wooden windows and crooked interior doors with a lot of gaps and without seals. Modern renovations with plastic windows and sealed doors do not allow air to circulate. There are 2 types of Khrushchev apartments: with 2 ventilation ducts (in the kitchen and in the bathroom) and with one in the bathroom. The basic principle of ventilation: air enters through the windows and exits through the ventilation ducts. In order for it to circulate normally and avoid dampness and mold, it should not encounter any obstacles along the way. If the ventilation duct is only in the bathroom and the only path for air is the door, and it has a seal and a minimum gap under it, then you need to install a grille. The best option is a regular grill for the kitchen plinth. It's cheap and looks good.

With the technical nuances of bathroom renovation complete, let’s move on to design.

1-2 colors in decoration

After the renovation, the bathroom will have towels, a rug, and a bunch of tubes and jars. And all of this has color. For some reason they forget about this and try to add a bunch of colors with decoration. The main mistake in bathroom design in Khrushchev is too many colors . For 3 square meters, 1-2 colors are more than enough for the entire bathroom.
It may look boring, but only in photographs. In a real bathroom, when all technical aspects are met and the renovation is done carefully, even 1 color looks great.

A combination of two colors may look even better, but that's the limit. Almost all bathroom designs in Khrushchev-era buildings that used 3 or more colors in decoration look collective farm.

White, beige and light gray

White and those close to it are ideal primary colors for a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building.

1. In a small area, the fewer contrasts, the better. And in the bathroom there is always a white color from the plumbing and the ceiling (which we, of course, just do as a matte stretch).
2. Splashes and drips are inevitable, and after drying they leave white spots that are not so noticeable on light-colored finishes.
3. Dark colors look cool in rough textures and under rim lighting. And due to the small area, we simply do not have space for niches and steps where hidden light could be built in.
4. It’s hard to find good dark tiles at an affordable price; they’re all expensive. But it’s quite possible to find inexpensive and good light ones. Read about tiles in the bathroom and how to choose the right tiles.

Have you heard that white visually expands the area? So that's not how it works. But in a small area, light colors really have no chance of being better. Considering all of the above, many have already guessed which style is best suited for Khrushchev. Bathroom in a Scandinavian style - be sure to check it out. Now you can choose relatively bright accent colors. The greater the saturation of the accent color, the less it should be. And vice versa, the lower the saturation, the larger the permissible coverage area. Next, we'll figure out how to combine them.

1 wall - 1 tile

Most people have an unhealthy urge to go crazy with a combination of several types of tiles on one wall. They look at photographs of huge bathrooms with designer renovations on the Internet and then try to transfer this to a small bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, without understanding the main rule of combination:

Different tiles on the same wall can only be laid to highlight different zones and never unprincipled.

If you just want to make several zones on one plane with tiles of different colors and formats without reference to other bathroom items, then this is almost always a very bad idea.
1 wall - 1 tile. How to do it. How not to do it. The exception is dividing the wall horizontally and cladding with two types, but even here there are nuances, about this in the next paragraph.

Without decoration

In addition to the tiles themselves, most collections include decors and borders. They are not needed. At all.

1. We have already found out that there is no need to shove different tiles onto one wall. If we make horizontal cuts, then we don’t need any borders for the transition either.
2. Due to the small area, all these decorations will always be divided into parts by some objects.
3. All decor is poor in 99% of cases.
4. In terms of area, curbs are very expensive. And it is on this unnecessary garbage that you can save money.

Just take my word for it and look at the photos of small bathrooms. All this tinsel does not fit into modern bathroom design ideas. The desire to “decorate” will almost certainly destroy the design and this is an unjustified risk.

To decorate a toilet in a retro style, it is better to use two “ancient” types of finishing materials: tiles and paint. The lower part of the walls is tiled first, and the upper part is second. It is better to leave the toilet tank in plain sight, and the decorations will be paintings, posters, black and white photos.

Preparatory work before removing the toilet

Removing a toilet and attaching a temporary plumbing fixture is not as difficult a task as it might seem. In order to dismantle the toilet before its subsequent replacement, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools:

• crowbar;
• wrenches of different sizes;
• pliers;
• rags needed to get rid of residual water;
• latex gloves;
• disinfectant.

When dismantling the toilet, be sure to wear rubber gloves; this will help you avoid microtraumas and infections. Before starting work, the plumbing fixture must be thoroughly washed and treated with a disinfectant, for example, a chlorine solution. It can be rinsed with water with an antiseptic dissolved in it - ordinary chlorine-containing bleach.

Removal of plumbing should begin by shutting off the cold water in the supply pipeline. The remaining water in the tank must be drained and the sewer system rendered inactive. You should not use water yourself, and you should also warn your neighbors above so that they refrain from water procedures for a while. After making sure that the supply valve is shut off securely, you can begin work.

Types of waterproofing materials

Modern materials that can provide good waterproofing of bathroom floors and walls are distinguished by application method and composition:

1. Coating compositions - the most widely used materials are those based on bitumen (bitumen-rubber, bitumen-polymer) and cement-based (cement-polymer mastics), others, for example, acrylic ones, are used less frequently.
2. Pasting or roll materials are made on a polymer or fiberglass base.

Coating waterproofing composition

Installation

Installation should be done only after finishing work has been completed, that is, on tiles or on a flat, cemented surface. Installation begins by connecting the device to the sewer. For this purpose, a corrugated outlet is used.

It is better to purchase a new element - it is unlikely to work with the old toilet. Next, a rubber seal is put on the toilet outlet pipe. The latter is pre-moistened in water. Then the toilet is installed in the chosen place and the second end of the corrugation is attached to the sewer pipe.

At the base of any modern toilet there are mounting lugs. Through them, using a marker or pencil, marks are made on the floor. Disconnect the corrugation from the sewer outlet and move the toilet to the side. This will free up space for drilling holes in the marked places. During the work we will need a hammer drill. The diameter of the hole must correspond to the plugs that come with the toilet mounting kit. You will also need special drills with pobedit tips. They are suitable for working with concrete and tiles.

Next, the toilet is returned to its original place. It is necessary to align the holes made with the factory ears. Fastening is carried out with bolts or using long screws with a hex head.

Pay attention to the tightening torque

It is important not to overdo it so as not to deform the ceramic floor tiles.

The final stage of installation is to seal all joints where the toilet comes into contact with the floor.

Installation of the structure with installation

Installation of a structure with a built-in tank is only possible using a special frame - installation. The device is mounted as a floor-standing or hanging type.

Installation of plumbing fixtures is carried out in two stages:

• installation of a drain tank;
• fixing the device.

Installation of a wall-mounted toilet on an installation

• The mounting locations for the frame are marked on the wall.
• Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled for the installation anchors.
• The position of the frame is fixed with anchors. The entire frame structure is aligned in height and location in the horizontal and vertical plane.
• The tank is mounted on the installation using special connections. The distance between the tank and the wall is at least 13.5 cm. It is connected to the water supply and sewerage system.

When a false wall is built, a hole is cut in it for the drain button.

Installation of a toilet bowl

• The pins are screwed into the holes prepared in advance.
• The couplings are threaded onto studs.
• The dimensions of the pipes are checked.
• Mandatory installation of a rubber seal before installing the bowl.
• The tightness of all connections is checked.
• The drain hose is installed.

How to dismantle a cast iron pipe

If a pipe is “welded” to a wall or floor using sulfur or aluminum, it will be very, very difficult to destroy such a coating.

To get started, you must first turn off the water supply to the apartment. Then you need to free the bathroom from unnecessary items that you can damage during work. This includes the sink, washing machine, laundry basket, etc.

Next, you need to disconnect the flush tank from the water supply and dismantle the toilet itself. Problems may also arise here, since Soviet toilets were screwed to the floor conscientiously, in other words, tightly.

Try to unscrew the bolts that attach the toilet to the floor and remove it from its place. If you succeed, consider yourself half done.

Now comes the turn of the pipes themselves. Cast iron, as you know, is not particularly strong, so at some distance from the riser you can simply break the old pipe with a hammer. It is much more difficult to remove the remains of pipes from the old riser and clean them before installing new ones.

To dismantle pipes, you may need:

• A hammer with a rubber or plastic tip.
• Chisel
• Torch or blowtorch
• Mask

Quite a strange combination, isn't it? However, a gas mask is necessary to comply with safety precautions if the joints of sewer pipes in your bathroom are filled with sulfur.

The easiest way to remove sulfur is by heating it. However, when heated, the sulfur mass releases toxic substances into the air, which are extremely harmful for humans to inhale. That is why it is better to protect yourself with a gas mask in advance.

So, dismantling must begin at the point of greatest distance from the riser. Here, most craftsmen do not bother with the torch, but simply break the pipe with a hammer. This is much simpler, but can cause some complications.

Make sure that when broken, pieces of pipe do not fall into the sewer passage. They can cause serious clogs in the drain, which will be much more difficult to get rid of than getting rid of old pipes.

With a hammer, you can destroy the pipe up to the crosspiece inserted into the riser. Here it is somewhat different and filled with much more sulfur.

To free the pipe and cross from the layer of sulfur, you need to heat it. The impact of a burner or blowtorch can last for several hours, while harmful substances will be constantly released.

Before you start heating, isolate animals and household members, cover furniture or other furnishings located in the immediate vicinity of the riser, and put on a gas mask.

During the heating process, you can easily chip off pieces of sulfur until the pipe is sufficiently clean. Now, the cross inserted into the riser must be loosened if possible and removed from the riser.

The dismantling of the old pipeline is carried out as much as possible. That is, all possible pipes are removed, and others are installed in their place.

Connecting a new PVC pipe to an old cast iron riser will require certain operating skills. Please note that you must clean the connection area as much as possible from the same sulfur and rust.

To make the job easier, use a special coupling that is specifically designed to connect cast iron pipe and PVC pipe.

If you still have questions, take a look at ours and ask them there. Our experts will help you understand the intricacies of good construction and renovation.

Installation of a hanging bowl and a hidden tank

It should be noted that the work on how to change a toilet of a conventional design to a wall-hung product with a hidden drain container yourself differs from the previous option in greater complexity. In this case, it will be necessary not only to replace the plumbing equipment, but also to repair the floor covering, build a false wall with its further finishing with tiles or other modern materials.

You have to attach the hanging bowl to a durable installation. After finishing the walls, the fixed metal frame will not be visible. When carrying out renovations in a combined bathroom, when decorating the interior, it is advisable to install a wall-mounted washbasin and a bidet of a similar design.

A detailed description of how to change a regular toilet to a wall-mounted one is as follows:

1. Mark the location of the plumbing fixture. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 millimeters and an inlet is connected to it.
2. Try on the purchased installation, which is a rigid frame for installation. You need to decide on the height. The standard placement is 450 millimeters from the floor to the seat and 100 millimeters from the floor covering to the bottom edge of the seat.
3. Using a marker, mark the places of fixation to the floor and wall of the bathroom so that they exactly coincide with the mounting holes.
4. They are prepared using a hammer drill and the frame is installed. Using a level, check the correctness of the installation work.
5. Water is connected to the drain tank.
6. The installation kit includes a diagram for cutting plasterboard sheets to cover the installation site. GCR is attached to the metal profile and to the installation. It is better if they are moisture resistant.
7. Finishing is carried out taking into account the personal preferences of residents.
8. When replacing a toilet bowl, it is connected to a corrugated sewer pipe and a drainage system, not forgetting the need for sealing.
9. The bowl is screwed directly to the installation frame through drywall and tile using pins.
10. The device is connected to the sewer system and the drain tank.

Despite the fact that the process of replacing an old toilet with a wall-mounted product takes a lot of time, the result of such a repair looks stylish and expensive. The work of installing an electronic plumbing fixture with the addition of automatic hygiene functions has much in common with fastening and connecting a conventional product, but there are still some nuances.

The fact is that to connect a smart wall-hung toilet, you need to provide it with power. For this purpose, a separate line is usually laid, since smart equipment is sensitive to voltage drops in the network.

How to dismantle an old toilet

We seem to have sorted out the choice of new plumbing fixtures, now let’s slowly move on to the process of installing it, which will begin with dismantling the old product.

If you need to remove a modern toilet that was fixed only with bolts, then you should not have any difficulties, but if it was attached using glue, you will have to approach the matter wisely.

So, if the toilet is mounted on silicone, then you just need to carefully cut it on all sides with a sharp stationery knife, slowly loosening the product. If it’s on cement, then we proceed like this.

Table 2. Dismantling the old toilet

Steps, photo	Description
Step 1 - turn off the water	First, the tank must be disconnected from the water supply. To do this, turn off the corresponding tap at the water supply outlet and unscrew the nut at the base of the tank manually or using a wrench. If you don’t see a tap, you may have to turn off the water in the entire apartment or even the entire riser - such situations often happen in old houses where there are no taps at all or they simply cannot hold water. Advice! In this case, after shutting off, the outlet can be plugged for a while so that there is water in the house. Drain all the water from the tank.
Step 2 - disassembling the toilet	Next, the toilet needs to be disassembled. We remove the toilet seat from it, then the tank cover, which is usually held in place by a screw at the base of the button. Dismantle the fittings by disconnecting all fastening screws. Unscrew the two bolts that hold the tank, remove it and put it aside. This completes the easy part. Tip! When carrying out all these manipulations, a lot of cold water will fall on the floor and on you, so prepare in advance - dry rags, buckets, and so on.
Step 3 - releasing the neck	Previously, not only the base, but also the neck was covered with cement. It won't be easy to get her out. You will need to hit it with a hammer near the connection to the sewer pipe. We beat until the neck breaks off. Hit only the ceramics, do not touch the pipe, as it may crack, which will add hassle.
Step 4 - knocking down the cement at the base	Next, take a chisel and a hammer and begin to free the base of the toilet from the cement mortar. Try to loosen the toilet from side to side - if you're lucky, it will move. If it does not give in, then we intensify the blows and try to go deeper under it, chipping off the adjacent tile. If you have a hammer drill, then do the job with it.
Step 5 - drain the water	Once the bowl is free, carefully lift it and drain the water into a bucket. To avoid accidental injury, clean the room. Look at the photo - it shows that there is a piece of the neck left in the sewer that needs to be removed.
Step 6 - clearing the sewer inlet	The sewer tee is cleaned with a screwdriver or chisel. Do this carefully so as not to damage the pipes, unless, of course, you plan to replace them with new ones.

Nuances of connecting to the sewer system

Assembly of plumbing fixtures will not work if the toilet bowl is selected incorrectly according to the release form. This will affect when connecting to the sewer, because each outlet has its own connection characteristics.

Release to the floor

It is possible to install a toilet with a floor outlet if the sewerage distribution runs in the floors. A special flange is attached to the entrance to the sewer with dowels. A bowl is installed on it.

Horizontal release

This method allows you to reduce the distance to the wall. The recommended condition is the installation of a rigid system for connecting plumbing fixtures and a sewer riser. But in apartments it is often replaced with corrugation.

Oblique release

Before assembling a model of a toilet with an oblique outlet, the installation site is marked, holes for dowels are drilled, the bowl is secured to the floor, and the installation is checked for tightness. The angle reduces the chance of leakage.

Toilet installation

When the toilet is removed, odors come out of the sewer. So that they do not distract from work, the sewer hole must be covered with something, for example, plugged with rags.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation continues with markings for dowels. To do this, the bowl is placed in the place where it is to be installed, and the holes are marked. Drill holes according to this marking and insert dowels into the holes.

In some models, the holes are drilled at an angle. In this case, to install the toilet in the holes, you need to drill at the same angle.

When the dowels are inserted, the bowl is placed in its place and connected to the cuff from the sewer socket. Then screws are tightened, onto which plastic washers are put.

It is not correct to immediately tighten the screws too much. First you need to lightly bait it and evaluate whether the installation was done smoothly. If not, then level it by placing plastic pads under it. Only after this can you tighten it.

The bowl is installed according to the markings

To install the toilet, you need to assemble the barrel yourself if it is delivered disassembled. Here everything should be done according to the instructions supplied by the manufacturer.

All moving parts must not come into contact with each other or the walls of the drain tank.

The next step is installing the drain tank on the bowl. Fastening is usually done using bolts, which should be tightened evenly. When installation is complete, a lid is placed on the tank and a drain button or lever is installed.

It is recommended to place a gasket between the bowl and the barrel. To prevent the gasket from moving, it is better to glue it with sealant.

The final moment of self-installation of the toilet is connecting the water supply.

When the water supply is connected, do not rush to turn on the water. First you need to check all structural components visually for damage. And only if you are sure that everything looks normal, you can open the water, fill the reservoir and try to rinse. If leaks occur, they must be repaired.

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Do-it-yourself device installation algorithm

Installing a toilet is divided into 4 main stages, whether you do it yourself or call a specialist:

• purchasing a new model;
• removal of the old structure;
• Near the installation site, tiles are restored if they are damaged. The sewerage system is carefully inspected. A decision is made on the need for repair or replacement;
• a new device is installed in place, the drain tank is connected to the water supply pipe.

Each stage in turn is divided into steps.

Dismantling the old model

At every stage of work there are difficulties that will need to be dealt with.

• The water supply stops.
• The tank is cleared of any remaining liquid.
• The drain hose is removed.
• The fastening elements of the tank on the toilet become loose.
• The leg mounting bolts are unscrewed.
• By shaking the structure in different directions, liquid is directed from the bowl elbow into the sewer drain hole.
• After this, the bowl is moved away from the sewer drain hole. If the joint is cemented, then the solution is carefully broken with a hammer.
• Dismantling is completed.

What difficulties may arise?

The above instructions describe the easiest way to remove old plumbing fixtures. However, it is often impossible to use it, because if the corrugation and the tank, as a rule, can be removed without problems, then the toilet itself can not always be detached from the floor quickly and without hassle. After all, plumbing fixtures are usually replaced after 15-25 years of use. As a result, the nuts on which it is fixed, which served faithfully due to high humidity, may not unscrew at all. There are also cases when the toilet is literally cemented to the floor. Here, of course, dismantling it causes a lot of trouble. But with the right approach they can be minimized.

So, if the old plumbing fixture cannot be unscrewed, then its base will need to be destroyed. Here you will need to arm yourself with a hammer, a crowbar and a hacksaw. But first you will need to literally soak all the water from the toilet siphon, because if this is not done, then after dismantling you will have an unpleasant and long cleaning.

It is imperative to wear gloves and safety glasses when breaking down the toilet. Before starting this work, remove the tank and disconnect the corrugation. Next you need to make several strong blows to the base of the plumbing. After this, you will notice how cracks have appeared in the lower part of the toilet. Hit them a few more times, and then start knocking out the part that turned out to be more stable. Use a chisel and crowbar during this process. With their help, even a secure fixation will be detached. After that, all that remains is to clean the surface on which the new toilet will be installed in the future, and the old plumbing can be safely taken outside and thrown into the trash can.

Useful tips for dismantling a toilet

To ensure that the removal of your old toilet goes as quickly as possible, you should follow these recommendations:

Scheme of connecting the toilet to the sewer.

Often, the tank of a sanitary product can simply be installed on a special stand, which is mounted on the wall. Here its dismantling will be very simple. After all, you only need to disconnect it from the pipes supplying water, and then remove it from the stand and take it out of the room. Soviet ones are mainly based on a tank, which is attached to the main body of the plumbing fixtures. In this case, its removal already occurs according to a different scheme. You will first need to remove the tank cap, and then remove all the mechanisms from it

Then pay attention to the fasteners (bolts) holding it at the base of the toilet. They will need to be unscrewed

If this cannot be done, then you will need to use a hacksaw to disconnect the tank. If you plan to change all sewer connections, you can simply cut the corrugation. Then you won’t need to waste time dismantling it. Indeed, often the corrugation can be fixed too tightly. During dismantling work, make sure that fragments and pieces of mortar do not fall into the sewer socket. After all, this can cause it to become clogged. Moreover, it may occur after you completely remove the old plumbing product and install a new one in its place. If you manage to dismantle the toilet without damaging its base or sewer line, you can reuse it. For example, you can put it in your dacha. At the same time, you should not worry that such plumbing fixtures will not last long, because older models have a very long service life. And since you will not use it at your dacha very often, it will not need to be replaced for many years. Therefore, feel free to buy corrugation, sockets and install old plumbing fixtures in your dacha. Remember that the toilet is a product with significant mass. Therefore, it will be very problematic to remove it alone, which means you will need to find an assistant.

By following the instructions presented and taking into account useful tips, you will be able to dismantle the toilet without unnecessary hassle and problems. This means that nothing will stop you from quickly installing a new plumbing product

Preparatory stage

Preparing to remove a dilapidated toilet will not take you a lot of time. The most important thing that every owner may like is that there is no need to shut off a non-specialized water riser. In most cases, water is supplied to the drain tank through a separate hose equipped with a tap. It is enough to close the shut-off valves and work can begin. In addition, if there is no tap, then there is a shut-off valve at the entrance of the water supply to the apartment or house.

First, you should take care of preparing all the necessary tools and materials. For work related to removing a dilapidated toilet, you may find the following useful:

• set of wrenches;
• hammer and chisel;
• scrap;
• hacksaw for metal;
• pliers;
• rubber or woven gloves and safety glasses;
• a basin (or other suitable container) and rags (worn rags).

The first step will be preparing the workplace. Often the toilet is installed in rooms with a small area. In order not to break all the shelves and other devices hung on the walls, it is better to remove them in advance.

Free up as much free space as possible. This is especially true if the toilet has not been changed since the house was built. If the building is old, then the plumbing units were installed firmly, using cement mortar. In this case, in addition, a small shelf can significantly complicate the work.

Now it is necessary to shut off the flow of water into the drain tank. This is done, as mentioned above, using a tap installed on the outlet running from the water supply to the toilet, or by turning off the water supply to the entire apartment. Once the water flow is stopped, drain the entire contents of the tank. Only then is it possible to begin the main work.

What should you prepare in advance?

Before you replace an old toilet with your own hands, you need to prepare for the work. You need to think through everything especially carefully if the replacement is carried out in a toilet that continues to be used. In this situation, you need to replace the plumbing quickly, and without proper organization this is impossible.

Choose the appropriate model, prepare all the necessary tools and supplies, and then you can get to work.

Choosing the type of new toilet

The most important thing is to buy a new toilet. Then, depending on your choice, a set of tools and materials for replacement will be selected.

The following types are distinguished:

• floor;
• hanging.

Floor models . Such bowls are more common and their choice is very wide. Replacing an old floor-standing toilet with a new one is the most common story. There are floor-standing models such as “monoblock”, “compact”, separate bowl and tank, as well as with a hidden drain system.

The monoblock toilet is stylish, but not practical. If the tank fails, the entire system will have to be replaced. This won't happen with a compact.

A monoblock is a product that combines both a bowl and a tank. A compact toilet is when the tank and bowl are supplied as a set and are connected during installation. This is the most popular option in our plumbing products market.

The retro model, when the tank is located under the ceiling and connected to the toilet by a pipeline, and to flush it you need to “pull the string,” is becoming less and less common. It looks good in an interior of the appropriate style.

A modern option is a hidden drain system. To replace a regular toilet with this one, you will need to build a false wall, behind which the cistern with the installation system will be hidden. Externally, such models look very neat; only the drain button is located on the wall, and all communications are hidden.

Thanks to its placement on the wall, the toilet appears to float in the air. But it is not attached to the wall, but to a steel frame that is hidden in the wall. Withstands weight up to 400 kg

Hanging bowls . Such toilets are not installed on the floor; they are hung on special anchor bolts on the wall. This leaves free space under the bowl that can be put to good use.

And from a hygienic point of view, this design wins. Cleaning the floor under a wall-mounted toilet is easy, but dirt often collects around the floor-mounted toilet.

Another detail that is important to consider when replacing a toilet with your own hands is the direction of release.

There are 3 varieties:

• release at an angle;
• straight;
• vertical.

A popular option is direct horizontal release. The toilet is connected to the sewer pipe at the same level. Oblique release was used in Soviet multi-story construction, but is still found today.

Externally, toilets may look exactly the same, but due to the different location of the outlet, you need to be careful when choosing

But devices with vertical drainage are installed more often in America and China. The convenience lies in the fact that the toilet can be placed at any point; communications are provided inside the interfloor ceiling. With us this is possible in private homes.

Practical tips for choosing a toilet are outlined in this article.

A set of necessary tools for work

The set of plumbing tools for replacing an old toilet is standard. Depending on the condition of the old equipment that will have to be dismantled and the sewer pipes, as well as the chosen method of attaching the new plumbing fixture, the set of tools needed may vary slightly.

Prepare the following necessary items:

• perforator;
• adjustable wrench;
• screwdriver;
• a hacksaw or grinder;
• sealant gun;
• hammer and chisel;
• rubber spatula;
• building level;
• personal protective equipment - goggles, gloves.

A hammer drill will be needed to knock out holes in the concrete for the dowels on which the new toilet will be attached. Work on connecting the water supply is carried out using an adjustable wrench. To tighten the screws, you will need a flat-head or Phillips screwdriver, and to seal the joints, you will need a gun for a can of sealant.

When disassembled, a modern compact toilet looks like this. A set of fasteners, rubber O-rings and a tank drain mechanism can be packaged separately. No need to be scared, it all comes together like a construction set

A hammer and chisel may come in handy if the equipment was connected to an old Soviet cast iron sewer riser. To ensure that the bowl is level, use a building level.

List of required materials

In addition to a set of tools for replacing a toilet with your own hands, you need to purchase additional materials that will be needed during installation:

• sealant;
• corrugation for connection to the riser;
• pipe for connecting to the water supply;
• FUM tape;
• tap;
• mounting kit

In any plumbing issue, the moment of sealing is the most important. Any gap or loose connection threatens leakage.

Silicone sealant in a bottle is your best friend when replacing a toilet. They fill all the cracks and gaps, process connections

To connect a plumbing fixture to the sewer, you need to buy a special plastic corrugated pipe. This is convenient because the pipe is flexible and fits in most cases. It can be bent to any position, stretched and compressed.

The corrugated pipe for connecting the toilet to the sewer is universal. It is suitable for both horizontal and angled release. Bowls with vertical drainage are connected in a special way - using a special elastic cuff

To seal the joints, use sealing tape or tow - the old fashioned way. The mounting kit for replacing a toilet includes dowels, screws, bolts, washers, nuts, plugs for connecting all components and installation. Don't be alarmed if something is missing, you can buy it all separately.

Operational period of cast iron pipes

Cast iron pipes are often used for the construction of external networks and the distribution of wastewater disposal systems. Elements of sewer networks are manufactured using centrifugal casting. The raw material that is used for this is #8211 gray cast iron.

When installing sewer networks, cast iron pipes are often used. They are excellent for laying external pipelines.

A bitumen-based coating is applied to the inner and outer surface of the pipe, which protects them from corrosion and increases the service life of cast iron sewer pipes. But such a coating serves not only to protect the metal from corrosion processes, but also to make the inner surface smooth. This helps improve throughput.

Advantages and disadvantages of cast iron sewer pipes

Let's start with the advantages. Today, cast iron pipes made using modern technologies are distinguished by their high strength and reliability of use. They can withstand long-term exposure to high temperatures, are immune to frequent temperature changes and are more resistant to corrosion. An undoubted and important advantage of cast iron sewers is that they are more affordable than steel ones. At the same time, they are more durable to use, their service life is approximately 80-100 years. The operation of cast iron pipes is environmentally friendly.

Diagram of the installation of cast iron pipes.

Cast iron pipes are most often used if it is necessary to install a sewerage system that must operate under constant high load.

Due to their heaviness, cast iron pipes are transported using special equipment.

Disadvantages of use include the complexity and cost of installation. Transporting cast iron pipes #8211 is not an easy task. This material is heavy and can only be transferred using special construction equipment. Connecting parts made of cast iron #8211 is a rather complex and labor-intensive task, on which their effective service depends.

There are two main methods for connecting sewer pipes. The first #8211 is caulking joints. To caulk the joints, heel or other materials are used. In this case, the joints are connected with a cable impregnated with self-expanding cement mortar. The second method #8211 is to pour molten sulfur into the joint, but you need to be extremely careful when using this method.