Drilling holes in concrete - from preparation for work to finishing

General tips for drilling wood

Wood is a relatively soft material that can be easily processed. Of course, there are hard varieties, and there are also exotic ones, which in their properties are not inferior to every metal, but still in Russia most often you have to work with fairly soft varieties. On the one hand, working with soft wood is easy, but on the other hand, you need to follow some rules.

  • Before starting work, it is worth applying markings, especially if several holes are needed. The center of the hole is marked with a regular pencil, after which many make a recess there with an awl or a nail. This is necessary so that the drill does not move to the side at the very beginning of work. If the drill has a centering sharp tip, then you can do without it.
  • If you have to work with a separate piece of wood, then it must be securely fastened. The ideal option is to use a vice; if you don’t have one, you can simply press it firmly against the wall. Working without fixing it would not be the best idea, since the hole may turn out to be of poor quality, and the wooden part itself may begin to rotate.
  • If you need to make a through hole, then you need to place a piece of wood under the wooden part, which will prevent damage to the surface on which the drilling takes place. Surprisingly, many people forget about this. By the way, this will also prevent the fibers from breaking on the bottom of the workpiece (where the exit hole will be).
  • For each type of drill (as well as diameter) there are recommendations for the maximum permissible speed. You definitely shouldn’t exceed them, and it’s even better to drill with a small margin, at slower speeds. What are the consequences of high revs? It's simple: chips and cracks. And if you need to make a large hole, then it would be correct to first use a drill of a smaller diameter, and then a larger one.
  • Always select drills that are suitable for your task, especially when large diameter holes are needed. And when using very large diameter crowns, they often use an additional blank with an already drilled through hole, which will not allow the drill to go to the side (it is placed on top and the existing and future holes are combined, like a stencil).
  • When drilling blind holes, the most important problem is depth. There are types of drills that have limiters in their design, but if they are not there, you can get by with marks that are attached to the drill. You don’t need to buy anything: rubber rings, adhesive tape or electrical tape will do.
  • Do not allow the accumulation of chips and especially sawdust, this reduces work productivity and is fraught with jamming of the drill. This is true even when using screw drills, which, in theory, should remove chips, but this does not always happen.

Follow these simple recommendations and you won’t have any difficulties drilling wood. This process requires only accuracy, slowness and the right approach.

How to drill a brick wall

Drilling brick with a drill is a simple process. An impact drill is used for work. If drilling is unstressed, the drilling process may take a long time. It is very important that the tool operates at high power. Quantitative indicators of revolutions per minute are also important. Indicators of more than 2,000 revolutions are considered the most acceptable.

Of course, to perform better work, a hammer drill is used. If it is not at hand, then use high-power drills. To drill a hole you do not need any special knowledge. The main thing is to follow a number of simple recommendations mentioned above. Sometimes you can stumble upon a burnt stone. It will be quite difficult to form a cavity in it. Such a brick is identified by the dust generated during operation. It becomes a pronounced black shade.

To create holes in burnt rocks, you need to turn on the drill at low speeds and set the impact function. You need to press very hard on the tool for the impact function to work correctly. It is also important to ensure that the drill does not overheat during operation. A severely overheated drill causes the edges of the drill to wear out quickly. For such purposes, a diamond-coated drill is most often used. This way the clutch is most effective. This leads to significant savings in physical effort and energy.

Sometimes situations arise when the hole made needs to be made of a significant diameter. For example, this could be a ventilation outlet. Such work will be very difficult to organize with ordinary tools. You will need powerful equipment and large crowns.

Drill bits for tiles and glass

It is extremely difficult to work with such materials - they are easily damaged. For example, ceramics and glass crack when the drill is misaligned or overheated. Therefore, only two types of drills are used for them: crowns and feathers. Crowns can have a diameter from 13 to 80 mm and, as a rule, are coated with diamond dust.

Feather drills. They are an ordinary metal rod with a sharp spear at the end (usually made of pobedit). They allow you to make holes with a diameter of 3 to 13 mm - ideal for dowels.

But keep in mind that after you have gone through the tiles, it is worth changing the drill. Otherwise, you will simply dull it on the concrete and get a crack in the tile the next time you use it.

Tools for work

For work they use different tools, the main ones: drill, hammer drill, screwdriver. There are nuances to using each.

Is it possible to do without a drill and hammer drill?

Make a hole without a drill or hammer drill, but not in a concrete wall. To do this you will need a bolt or a punch.

The working end of the tool is applied to the place where the hole will be. On the opposite side of it, you need to strike hard, rotating the tool after each turn.

Which nozzles to choose

A specific nozzle is used for each material:

  • concrete, brick, stone - drill with a carbide plate or pobedit;
  • tiles, glass - cone-shaped drills with diamond coating;
  • metal – spiral drill with a cylindrical cone;
  • wood, drywall - for holes of different diameters, drills are used: feather, ballerina, screw, saw bits for wood;
  • foam concrete - pobedit drills.

Screwdriver

A screwdriver is one of the most popular tools for repair and construction work. With its help you can tighten and unscrew screws, drill wood, metal, chipboard, plywood, tiles, plywood, lightweight concrete.

How to properly drill a reinforced concrete pipe with a hammer drill

When using an impact drill for reinforced concrete, you need to use the “perforator” mode and pobedit drills. First, the hole is made smaller, then larger. The drill needs to be cooled periodically.

Important! When working with concrete, you need to avoid hitting the reinforcement, otherwise the drill will break. Using a special device you can check where it is located

Drill

The tool is suitable when you need to make several holes. You can use a regular drill. When plunging a Pobedit drill into the body of the wall, sometimes you need to break the concrete with a punch that matches the diameter of the hole. This is necessary when the drill begins to get stuck in the surface, bumping into areas that are too dense. The process is quite labor-intensive.

For greater efficiency, you can use universal drills that have diamond coating. They are installed only on a conventional drill or on a tool where the vibration function is disabled.

For large-volume work, an impact drill and drills with pobedit tips are used. They are designed for holes up to 12 mm. The drill is suitable for working with metal and concrete.

What is a wood ballerina

A circular adjustable ballerina drill is a device that is designed for drilling round holes of large diameter. The tool has a simple design. It consists of a shank with a transverse rod on which movable carriages with cutters are attached. The rod has markings according to which you can set the required spread of the cutters relative to the center of the intended hole. A core drill is fixed in the middle of the shank. It serves as a centering element and support when drilling.

In addition to designs with two cutting elements located symmetrically, there are ballerinas with one cutter or even three. In the latter case, they are located on the base in the form of a disk with grooves.

Grooves in monolithic walls

As we have already said, it is better not to make horizontal grooves in load-bearing monolithic walls, as this can lead to damage to the working reinforcement and reduce the load-bearing capacity of the wall. From the point of view of the law, it is prohibited to make vertical grooves in such walls. However, in this case, the working reinforcement will not be cut and the load-bearing capacity of the wall will not decrease. Therefore, horizontal sections of wiring can be done behind a suspended or suspended ceiling, and communications can be lowered down along grooves in load-bearing walls

To be careful, it is better not to let anyone into the apartment so that they do not see the vertical grooves

Techniques for drilling holes in wood

Countersink hole for screw head

There are situations when you need to drill a “blind” hole for a tenon joint. To do this, you need to use a feather drill with a limiter, which is placed on the drill according to the size of the drilling depth

It is more difficult to make holes in large-diameter wood, since the use of conventional cylindrical drills chips the surface of the material, spoiling its appearance. To successfully cope with this task, feather drills and annular cutters are used.

Drilling with feather drills

For successful drilling with feather drills, secure the wood firmly in a vice and press the tip of the drill bit against the surface of the material. Then drill (at low speed) the hole until the tip of the drill appears at the bottom of the wood. Stop drilling and remove the feather bit from the hole, then turn the wood over, clamp it in a vice and drill the hole on the other side. This will prevent the block from splitting when drilling.

Drilling with an annular cutter

Wood annular cutter

An annular cutter is used for drilling holes in wood with a diameter greater than 38 mm. Drilling begins with a small-diameter guide drill, structurally connected to the cutter in one piece. This guide serves as a guide for the annular cutter.

Here are some tips from professionals that will surely help you when drilling holes in wood:

a) for vertical drilling, you can install a square parallel to the drill; b) if you often have to do carpentry work, purchase a special stand for the drill, which allows you to hold the tool strictly vertically and controls the depth of the holes; c) be sure to use a vice when drilling to avoid splitting the wood; d) to ensure that the exit hole does not have chips, place it under wooden part with an unnecessary block and drill them together. This is especially applicable when making holes in a thin board; e) if you do not have a drilling depth limiter, wrap the drill at the limit location with bright electrical tape or masking tape.

Preparing for work

The easiest way to drill holes in concrete with your own hands is with a hammer drill or impact drill. Such tools will allow you to drill a concrete surface with reciprocating blows of the drill used, and remove the resulting crumbs by rotating it.

Performing such work with a conventional drill in concrete is slower and more difficult than in wood or other soft materials.

Wherein:

  • When purchasing a tool, it is better not to save money, but to give preference to a well-known brand;
  • The adjustable rotation speed of the tool must be taken into account;
  • Determine the drilling depth of a possible hole;
  • Find out the ease of performing the work with the equipment;
  • Safety precautions must be observed. To do this, you should wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from concrete chips, use earplugs to avoid damaging your hearing, and purchase work gloves to protect your hands from working with a drill. When carrying out long-term work, it is recommended to use a respirator;
  • High quality concrete drill bits should be used for drilling. They should be with carbide tips and designed specifically for impact drills that can withstand the stress of impact drilling in strong concrete;

Tip: A tool for drilling holes in concrete must have a length of working part with grooves no less than the depth of the hole that needs to be drilled. These grooves are needed to remove dust generated from the hole.

  • The drilling depth is adjusted. Some drills have a depth adjustment function or a special limiter. To learn the rules of use, special instructions are attached to the tool. If the equipment does not have a drilling depth limiter, you need to measure and mark with a pencil the desired depth of the hole to be drilled on the drill;
  • The required hole depth increases by 5 mm. This is necessary to accommodate the remaining dust generated during drilling.

Drilling a hole


We drill holes in concrete using an electric drill.
The procedure for drilling a hole:

  • The location of the hole is marked. To do this, use a soft pencil to mark the wall with a dot or a cross;
  • A device for drilling holes in concrete is brought to the wall. In this case, you need to hold the drill with one hand like a pistol, and put your index finger on the start button. If there is an additional handle on the drill, you need to grab it with your other hand and use it for greater reliability of gripping the tool.;
  • The drill is set to the mark and the drill is turned on for a short time at a slow speed or several short turns on the device, in the absence of speed adjustment. In this case, a depression of 3–6 mm should be obtained. It will help you correctly guide the tool to drill the main hole.

Tip: Before drilling a large hole in concrete, you should first use smaller diameter drill bits. This will increase the stability of the equipment during further operation.


Drilling a hole for a socket with a crown

  • Drilling continues with great effort. If there is a shock mode, you should switch to it. The drill is attached to the basting hole and aligned strictly perpendicular to the surface;
  • Drilling begins again with confident, but not too much pressure on the drill. In this case, the drill should be immersed in the concrete. Gradually increase the pressure on the drill and the speed of its rotation, if necessary, but the drill must remain in a stable position all the time. It must be borne in mind that concrete is a heterogeneous material and the drill can easily slip into a void or air pocket;
  • Sufficient pressure must be applied to the drill to maintain the tool’s position, but you cannot press it forward too much, which will increase wear on the drill and cause it to break;
  • Periodically, the drill must be removed from the hole. Every 15 seconds, the drill is pulled back a little and then inserted back into the hole again, which will help remove accumulated dust from the hole;
  • The drill is periodically turned off and removed from the hole. This will allow the tool to cool down in a few seconds. This is especially important for conventional drills that do not have an impact function, due to their rapid overheating from prolonged operation;
  • You need to break through very hard obstacles with a pointed chisel on concrete. To do this, a pointed chisel is inserted into the hole and you need to carefully tap it with a hammer until the concrete in this place crumbles. But you can’t drive the chisel too deep so that it can be pulled out again. The drill is then reinserted into the hole and drilling continues;
  • The appearance of a spark or metal in the hole indicates the presence of reinforcement in the wall. Work should be stopped immediately and a metal drill inserted into the drill until the metal obstruction is removed;
  • Dust is blown out of the hole with a rubber bulb. This will increase the reliability of fixing anchors in concrete.

How to drill a large diameter hole in concrete using different devices is shown in detail with all the nuances in the video in this article.

A few tips when performing work

To ensure that drilling a hole in a concrete surface is done correctly and efficiently, you should follow several recommendations from experts:

  • When laying communications, it is necessary to comply with the requirements for performing work that are formulated in the GESN - drilling holes in concrete. The document contains standards for operations, estimates of labor costs for workers, recommendations for the use of equipment and materials;
  • To save time on subsequent cleaning, you can invite an assistant to hold the hose of a working vacuum cleaner from below under the hole;
  • It is better to choose a place for drilling in the mortar where the concrete blocks are joined - the mortar is easier to drill than the main concrete.

Tip: If the hole is made in a solution, be sure to use metal anchors to install the screws, otherwise the fasteners will very quickly become loose and fall out. For some lightweight equipment, such as junction boxes, wire clamps, it is acceptable to use plastic dowels or concrete screws.

  • Drilling large holes in concrete should be done with diamond concrete core bits. Their choice is influenced by the technical characteristics of concrete, including the size and strength of crushed stone, the time for complete hardening of concrete and the absence or presence of reinforcement;
  • The older the concrete, the more difficult it is to drill holes in it;
  • You cannot lean on the drill with your entire body weight, so as not to break the drill;
  • Some carbide drills may break if they are cooled with water.

Most floors and walls are structures made of reinforced concrete products, which are characterized by increased strength and density. Therefore, it is very important to decide in advance: how to drill a hole in concrete, and how to do it correctly.

Tips for choosing

An instrument of any form has its own criteria and must meet them. You can determine the quality of the instrument you are purchasing by its appearance, color, and also by the material from which it is made.

  • Material. It is impossible to visually determine the quality of the material. Therefore, before purchasing, you need to make sure that the product has a quality certificate. Chinese counterfeits are often sold without documents.
  • Appearance. A high-quality product has a flat, smooth surface. Various cracks, scratches and damage are defective. The cutting area must be carefully sharpened. Long drills must be straight. It is very easy to check their quality; just roll them on a flat surface. All irregularities will be immediately visible.
  • Color. To ensure that the tool has additional strength, it is manufactured using a special technology. You can find out which processing method was used by the color of the product. The steel color indicates that no additional processing was carried out. The yellow-gold spraying relieves metallic stress. A product treated with titanium nitride (a tool with a bright gold color) will have a long service life. The black drill has increased strength. Steam was used to process it.
  • Package. Products from well-known manufacturers have good, high-quality packaging. All fakes are poorly packaged, and the text is sometimes written with errors.
  • Price. The higher the price, the better the quality of the product. All budget tools have a short service life.

Caring about their reputation, well-known stores will not sell counterfeits. And no matter what kind of tool you buy, in order for it to be of high quality and last a long time, you should contact reliable and trusted suppliers.

For high-quality performance of even such a simple procedure as drilling holes in wood products, the correct mode and the appropriate tool are required. When choosing a wood drill, you should take into account the characteristics of both the material being processed and the hole that needs to be made. The modern market offers a wide variety of drills designed for making holes in wood, so choosing a tool to solve certain technological problems will not be any particular problem.

Drilling holes for socket boxes with a core drill in wood

Construction works

First, build a frame from the selected metal structures for both sides of the opening. Using a grinder with a diamond wheel or by removing the front row of bricks in the wall, cut a slot around the perimeter of the future opening on both sides. The depth of the slot must correspond to the design plan and not exceed sufficient reinforcement for laying the frame. If the frame is assembled directly on site with subsequent welding, then lay the horizontal elements first, and then the vertical ones. Be sure to prime all metal structures before installation.

In the places of the metal frame marked in the design, holes for fasteners are drilled. Depending on what was chosen by the designers, the fasteners can be reinforcement, anchors of sufficient length, or ready-made studs.

Using a hammer drill, drill holes in the walls to the depth of the fastenings. If the wall is brick, then place the holes so that they do not fall at the joints between the rows of mortar, but only in the middle of the bricks.

Lay the fasteners and secure them to the metal structure. Remove the wall material inside the frame and form a hole or opening. Connect two frames installed on both sides of the opening with jumpers. To do this, use strips of metal or reinforcement, depending on what is specified in the project. Finally secure the reinforcement frame to the wall using anchors or reinforcement. Fill any voids between the frame and the wall with concrete.

Main types

The main parameter, depending on which wood drills are divided into different types, is the design of the working part. Based on this feature, wood drilling tools may fall into one of the following categories.

Drills of this type are used to make holes of medium diameter in wood - up to 25 mm. It is advisable to use such a tool in cases where the requirements for the accuracy of geometric parameters, as well as for the quality of the holes, are not too strict. Among the most significant advantages of pen drills, low cost and ease of maintenance should be noted.

Feather drills are considered the most affordable

Core type tools are designed for drilling large diameter holes. In terms of their design, wood crowns resemble a metal glass with a shank, the working end of which has cutting teeth. When such a drill rotates, its cutting teeth, interacting with the workpiece, cut out a circle of the required diameter on its surface.

Set of wood crowns

Spiral wood drills are also called screw drills. Their working part resembles a screw. They are used for drilling small diameter holes in wood. Due to the special design of screw-type drills, chips are effectively removed from the processing area when used. The twist drill also ensures high precision and extremely high quality machining.

Spiral wood drill with scoring bits

These are tools with the help of which, in products made of wood, they create not through, but blind holes with a perfectly flat bottom. In addition, if you use such a wood drill with additional accessories, you can drill a square hole in a wooden product.

There are many modifications of the Forstner drill available.

With the help of such tools, it is possible not only to drill wood, but also to make grooves of various configurations in wood products. Drills of this type are most often used in cases where it is necessary to perform complex processing of wooden parts, and in order to drill a regular hole, a twist drill, a feather or a core tool is used.

Milling drills are designed for drilling a round hole and then boring it to the desired shape. Used when working with wood and thin metal

The shank of drills designed for woodworking is usually cylindrical, but manufacturers also produce them with shanks of other configurations. So, on the modern market you can buy drills for woodworking, the shanks of which can be:

  • triangular, optimally suited for fixation in a three-jaw chuck (tools with a triangular shank are ideally transmitted torque, and even very significant loads are not able to turn it in the chuck);
  • hexagonal (tools with such shanks can be installed in both a standard and a three-jaw chuck, but there is a very high risk of the drill turning when subjected to heavy loads);
  • conical (tools with shanks of this type are used primarily to equip production equipment);
  • tetrahedral (a rarely used form of shanks, which, however, ensures high stability of the tool against rotation in the chuck).

How to make a hole with a drill

First you need to prepare a drill, attachments and other related items. Then, while working, you won’t have to be distracted and waste time looking for the right things.

Drilling is often necessary in cases where:

  • rough finishing;
  • wiring;
  • plumbing installation;
  • concreting communications.

In this case, the concrete wall (if drilled correctly) should remain without severe damage or large chips.

When working with a drill with a pobedite bit, sometimes you need to use a metal punch. It is selected according to the size of the hole. This tool allows the drill not to jam when deepening the drill. To do this, the punch is driven into the concrete and driven with a hammer to split the solid obstacle into pieces. This process can take quite a long time, so it is better to use a diamond crown. In addition, a drill with such an attachment will never get stuck in concrete.

Sequence of actions when drilling:

  1. Carefully inspect the instruments. The drill must be in good condition, and the drill must be intact.
  2. Begin to carefully drill a hole in the concrete with a drill, stopping the continuous operation of the tool after 10 minutes from the start of action.
  3. The process can be continued only after the engine has cooled.
  4. Before drilling the next hole, it is necessary to moisten the nozzle with water. This will protect the metal from bending.

Using these simple methods you can drill a concrete wall without a hammer drill.

Sometimes there are cases when the drill gets stuck in the wall. It is not advisable to use force in this case, otherwise it will break off and the edge of the nozzle will remain in the concrete. To free the drill, you must first disconnect it from the drill, then put on a bit of a smaller diameter and remove the stuck part.

To perform drilling yourself and at the same time avoid various injuries and unpleasant incidents, you need to follow safety precautions and follow the recommendations of specialists.

When making renovations in an apartment or house, the question of drilling the wall always arises. You can use different tools depending on the purpose of the hole and the material from which the surface is made.

There are nuances when working with each tool, especially when drilling a wall. How to make the right hole correctly, and what recommendations should you follow?

A regular drill or screwdriver

If you do not have the tools described above, then this work can be done using a conventional electric drill or a powerful screwdriver.

Drilling will take more time than using a hammer drill, but you can do it yourself.

In this case, in addition to a drill and a drill bit, you will also need a punch . First, a small depression is made at the drilling site using a punch and a hammer.

Drills for concrete and blocks

Their main difference is the soldering of hard metals on the pointed surface of the drill: Pobedit or artificial diamond.

Drills for concrete are also different:

  • spiral - suitable for making shallow holes (up to 100 mm), they are the most popular;
  • drilling - similar to spiral, but usually with longer and wider grooves for dust to escape;
  • crown - used when it is necessary to make a recess or hole of large diameter in concrete for a socket or junction box.

The same drills are also suitable for blocks, but when working with soft materials it is not recommended to use the impact mode (usually it is not needed).

Tools for work

For work they use different tools, the main ones: drill, hammer drill, screwdriver. There are nuances to using each.

Drill


The tool is suitable when you need to make several holes.
You can use a regular drill. When plunging a Pobedit drill into the body of the wall, sometimes you need to break the concrete with a punch that matches the diameter of the hole. This is necessary when the drill begins to get stuck in the surface, bumping into areas that are too dense. The process is quite labor-intensive. For greater efficiency, you can use universal drills that have diamond coating. They are installed only on a conventional drill or on a tool where the vibration function is disabled. For large-volume work, an impact drill and drills with pobedit tips are used. They are designed for holes up to 12 mm. The drill is suitable for working with metal and concrete.

Hammer


A hammer drill is a universal tool. It can be used to make a hole in a wall made of wood, tiles and concrete. The tool has several functions - drilling, hammer drilling and impact mode. To make a hole, you need to select the desired drill depending on the surface and carry out the work by selecting the mode.

Screwdriver

A screwdriver is one of the most popular tools for repair and construction work. With its help you can tighten and unscrew screws, drill wood, metal, chipboard, plywood, tiles, plywood, lightweight concrete.

Which nozzles to choose


A specific nozzle is used for each material:

  • concrete, brick, stone - drill with a carbide plate or pobedit;
  • tiles, glass - cone-shaped drills with diamond coating;
  • metal – spiral drill with a cylindrical cone;
  • wood, drywall - for holes of different diameters, drills are used: feather, ballerina, screw, saw bits for wood;
  • foam concrete - pobedit drills.

Is it possible to do without a drill and hammer drill?

Make a hole without a drill or hammer drill, but not in a concrete wall. To do this you will need a bolt or a punch.

The working end of the tool is applied to the place where the hole will be. On the opposite side of it, you need to strike hard, rotating the tool after each turn.

Color matters

Even by the appearance of the drill, you can determine its properties and qualities.

  • The gray color indicates that this is an ordinary simple drill, without any additional processing.
  • Cherny reports that the drill has been treated with hot steam and has increased wear resistance.
  • Yellow means that the drill has been quenched and tempered (a procedure to relieve internal stress). Such products are even more wear-resistant, but are afraid of overheating.
  • A bright golden color is usually characteristic of drills treated with titanium nitride, which reduces contact friction in the drilling area and perfectly hardens the surface of the tool.

How to drill through tiles?

What tasks are most often pursued when drilling ceramic finishes:

  • laying water pipes or other communications;
  • installation of an electrical outlet;
  • hanging shelves, mirrors, hooks and holders;
  • heated towel rail insert;
  • installation of a clothes dryer.

Before starting drilling, determine the type and quality of the tile. Density, strength, fragility, glaze characteristics and porosity of the tile - all these factors influence the outcome of the drilling process and the choice of tool.

But almost all types of tiles are characterized by one feature - a slippery surface from which the drill will constantly slide. Solving the problem is simple - just cover the working area of ​​the drill with masking tape and get to work.

Another nuance is assessing the density of the tiles. Tap lightly on the facing surface. A dull sound will indicate the absence of voids in the coating - it can be drilled. If the sound is ringing, there are cavities in the tile, which, when drilled, can lead to breaks and chips.

Tool functionality

A high-quality ballerina is made of high-strength steel, which makes it possible to use the device in working with soft and hard wood.

This tool has an adjustable drilling diameter. This allows you to make holes of almost any diameter. The limitation of the drilling range depends on the size of the ballerina. Manufacturers produce devices with the following cutter spread limits:

  • from 30 to 120 mm;
  • from 40 to 200 mm;
  • from 40 to 300 mm;
  • from 40 to 400 mm.

The maximum drilling diameter is limited by the rod on which the cutters are mounted. The minimum is the thickness of the shank.

A ballerina drill can be used in any places where using a jigsaw or a hand router would be inconvenient. For example, this may be assembled and installed furniture, in the part of which it is necessary to drill a neat hole, given the limited space. Another example is an uneven (concave or curved) surface. It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to do everything smoothly and neatly with a jigsaw or milling cutter. It will be difficult to control the inclination of the tool relative to the surface. A ballerina can easily cope with this task.

Choosing a tool and working with it

When choosing a tool to drill a hole, you should understand that your work depends on it. A good drill accurately drills into a concrete wall or other required material, simplifying the drilling process, while a bad one will require a lot of time, may not cope with the task, or will complicate it. What you need to pay attention to when choosing a drill:

  • Is it possible to change the drilling speed? – this point is important, since correction of the speed mode will ensure accurate operation of the drill, helping it not to damage the surface.
  • Is it possible to hammer drill and adjust the depth? – impact drilling can be used on problem areas, softening them.
  • Is it possible to hold the drill with both hands? – a drill is not a light tool and therefore preference should be given to models that are equipped with handles.
  • Is the tool's power sufficient for your job?

Having decided on a drill, before starting work you need to get the hang of holding it. To do this, you should take the drill in one hand, like a pistol, and place the other hand on the handle of the tool (if it is not intended by the design, the hand is placed near the chuck). It is necessary to hold the drill in your hands strictly horizontally, so that the hole does not turn out distorted or at the wrong angle. Wait until the drill reaches ambient temperature before turning on the drill. Sudden temperature changes can cause condensation. If you decide to rest while working, unplug the tool.

Areas of use and design features

As mentioned above, in order to drill a quality piece of wood, it is very important to choose the right drill bit. When making this choice, it is necessary to take into account both the characteristics of the material being processed (in particular, its hardness) and the type of hole that needs to be made. That is why it is very important for home craftsmen and specialists whose work involves processing wooden blanks to understand both the types and functionality of wood drills.

Twist (screw) drills

A twist or screw drill can be produced with two types of working tips: conical and with special scoring tips. If we compare both types according to the degree of their effectiveness, then it is almost at the same level. However, they differ in the load taken by the tool during wood processing. Thus, in the design of the working head of a drill with a scoring tool, there is a jumper, which causes significant loads to be transmitted to the entire body of the tool. Drills with a conical working head do not have this drawback, which, in addition, are much better centered on the surface of the workpiece. The conical head immediately enters the material, and the drill does not move to the side. Meanwhile, spiral drills with scoring tools, due to their design features, allow you to create holes in wood with higher precision.

Design of a twist drill for wood

Drilling wood using a spiral tool allows you to get precise and neat holes with straight edges and a smooth surface on the inner walls. Tools of this type can be used for drilling wood of any species and almost any hardness, as well as materials made on its basis (chipboard, MDF, plywood, etc.). If the drill is driven into the material being processed at a low speed, there will be no need to frequently remove the tool from the hole being created to remove accumulated chips.

How to drill concrete evenly with a drill

First you need to know for sure that the right nozzle has been selected. Drilling must always be done at low speeds. Typically, the tool is in use for 10 or 12 minutes. During this time, it is guaranteed that it will not overheat and accidentally break. If the tool drill accidentally remains in the thickness of the wall, you must carefully remove it. You cannot use force. Perhaps the drill will break and its fragments will remain in the thickness of the wall. If necessary, the drill can be easily detached from the attachment.

The drill must be held strictly perpendicular to the surface. If this is not observed, there is a risk of damaging the drill and sometimes leaving a dent. It is also important to ensure that drilling dust does not get into your eyes. To do this, purchase safety glasses. You can also use gloves to prevent your hands from slipping during the process. Only a person with sufficiently strong hands can drill a surface efficiently. Because the process requires significant effort.

How to choose and what to pay attention to

Choosing a high-quality circular drill is quite easy. The main thing is to know the main points that you should pay attention to first, but also not to lose sight of the little things.

The design is a very important point: a wood ballerina comes with one chisel or two or more. For frequent use, it is better to purchase an option with two or three cutting elements. It is easier to work with such devices and the quality of the processing performed will be at an acceptable level.

It would not be superfluous to be able to replace individual parts. Inexpensive circle drills can have a solid shank with a permanent center drill and rod.

Metal, its quality determines its strength and ability to withstand workloads. High-quality tools are made from high-strength steel or alloys. The shank and cutter holders are shaped using a machine tool. The rod is usually stamped and made of the same metal.

Cheap options often use soft metal or alloys, which can be brittle. Under load, parts may become deformed or break. Such a tool will not last long and it will also be difficult to achieve accuracy from it.

The quality of workmanship, the main feature is the absence of backlashes and distortions. All parts must fit together and be securely fastened with fixing screws.

The markings of a high-quality ballerina's barbell are stamped. Sometimes the divisions are highlighted with bright paint for better visibility.

Cutters and high-quality cutting elements are made from hardened tool steel. They are secured to the holders with rivets or soldering. Solid cutters with holders (made of the same metal) quickly become dull and are not durable.

Manufacturer, when choosing any tool and consumables, preference should be given to well-known and long-proven brands and brands. The most common are Topfix, Stayer, Irwin, Strum.

Purchasing an adjustable circular drill for use at home, or if you need to drill several holes, is completely worth it. This eliminates the need to purchase an expensive tool that may only be needed a few times.

What do anchor ties provide in construction?

Concrete floors are laid in buildings and structures on load-bearing walls, starting from the basement and on each floor for the floor and ceiling. After laying and anchoring the slabs, they are monolied, that is, they are filled with cement mortar in the form of a screed and the result is a solid box that is not subject to any shifts or distortions. In essence, this is the answer to the question about the need for anchor connections: the slab will not move across the floors even with a strong push

If you have ever seen with your own eyes or just in photographs a house after an artillery shelling, then you probably noticed that the floors, as a rule, are more intact than the walls, and all this is possible thanks to monolithic connections

It is possible not to use anchoring of floor slabs only when a small one-story building is being erected in a seismologically safe area, but this only applies to slabs in the attic. But in most cases, a good owner will still not build a house, leaving the ceiling without such fasteners, especially since it is inexpensive.

This excerpt shows that the manual is of a recommendatory nature. Source

This may seem strange, but today there are many opponents of anchoring, who claim that houses without such insurance will also stand and will not go anywhere. Perhaps they are given confidence by the fact that in the “Manual for the Design of Residential Buildings” such fasteners are presented in the form of a recommendation, and not a law? But it would not be amiss to note here that, according to statistics, it is recommendations that more often save human lives than laws.

Drill sharpening

Drill bits may become dull with frequent use. You can sharpen the tool yourself or contact a specialist. If you decide to do this yourself and do not have the skills, it is better to practice on an old instrument. When sharpening, the main thing is not to violate the desired geometry and adhere to a certain degree. Sharpening can be done manually or on an electric machine.

  • Metal analogues of drills are made of softer metal. They can be sharpened manually using a file.
  • Using an electric machine, the drill overheats greatly. This can be avoided by constantly dipping it in water. Or organize a stream of water pouring onto the tip of the drill.

Walls

Things are much easier with walls, because... You can rely on logic and generally accepted standards to determine where the wiring goes, so you can avoid hitting it with a hammer drill. So, as a rule, the cable line runs parallel under the ceiling at a distance of 15 cm from it and goes down to the electrical points at right angles, as shown in the photo below:

To avoid getting into electrical wiring when drilling, it is enough to detect distribution boxes in the walls (this can be done with the naked eye), which will show the exact height of the wires. After that, you need to look at where the sockets, switches, and electrical panels are located. From all these points the cable rises upward, so it is better not to drill into the wall above them, otherwise the chance of getting into the wiring will be almost 100%.

However, this method of laying cables is not always found. In panel houses, the wiring is laid in channels (cavities) in the slabs. Due to the design features of the slab and the requirements for its rigidity, they run diagonally. You can see an example of their location in the figure below.

If you are unable to determine the location of the electrical line in an apartment or house using the methods described, it is better to use a special detector. There are inexpensive devices for finding hidden wiring. Their accuracy, of course, is not at the highest level, but with an error of 10-15 cm you can find the wires in the wall, which will allow you to avoid hitting them with a drill.

If you just need to hang a TV on the wall or install a kitchen (meaning hanging cabinets), it is not advisable to buy a detector. In this case, we recommend making a metal detector yourself. A simple homemade device will also show the approximate location of the wiring.

You can also try using an indicator screwdriver to detect hidden wiring, but not the one with a neon lamp, but the one with batteries and an LED. If you take it by the sting and move the back side along the wall, it glows near the line, although this method is not very accurate. We also recommend tapping the wall around the intended drilling location - this will likely “tap out” cavities and cable lines.

How to drill a log or thick beam? Of course with a screw drill

We continue to understand the equipment with which you can work on wood. In general, wood can be drilled with different drills; in the last article we analyzed the effectiveness of the Forstner drill, and figured out how and where it is recommended to use it.

There are a great many types of wood drills and it often happens that they are ideal for some jobs, but not suitable for others at all. Therefore, a home craftsman must understand what and how to drill into wood. Today's article will be about a screw drill, also called a twist drill.

It is for wood and will help out in cases where it is necessary to drill a deep hole. For example, you have a log house through which you need to stretch a water pipe or a bundle of cables. And only a twist drill can cope with thick wood. Of course, nothing prevents you from trying to use a regular perk, however, as I already said, drilling with it is inconvenient and it is not a guarantee that you will be able to complete the job.

Here is a photo:

As you can see, the tip is made in the form of a thin thread, which helps to screw in the drill perfectly at the initial stage of drilling. The ejection of chips occurs due to the screw edges (like any drill or brace), so drilling is easy. The shank is most often 6-sided, so the tool is securely mounted in the chuck of a drill or screwdriver.

It is necessary to work with such a drill at low speeds, so it is best to use a regular home drill with speed control or a powerful screwdriver with a high tightening torque.

But it is best, if possible, to use a low-speed drill with a speed of up to 800 (I recommend a rebir drill).

The most common use of such equipment is the fastening of logs. Workers who assemble log houses often come to our store and they buy “spirals” with a diameter of 25-28-30 mm and a length of 450-600 mm. As you know, in order to fasten the logs of a log house together, you need to drill them from above and insert iron reinforcement into the hole made. It is very important that the hole is drilled deeply, which is why a long drill is needed.

The standard range of lengths is as follows:

— 220 mm — 450 mm — 600 mm (the most popular).

To make holes with a diameter of 30 mm to a depth of 600 mm in wood, you need a very powerful power tool, so we recommend using a drill of at least 1000 Watt (and that is unlikely to be enough), as well as screwdrivers with a torque of at least 36 Nm. Of course, the most preferable option is a low-speed drill, which has a power of 1200 Watts; for such work you can’t imagine anything better. It is very powerful and easily pushes such a thick drill bit through solid wood.

The prices for such “consumables” are quite high, at least it is much more expensive than feather and Forstner drills. For example, 22*600 costs around 300 rubles. And the thickest ones come with a price tag of a piece of rubles. They are taken only when it is necessary to drill a hole in a log house for a sewer pipe, etc.

However, if you consider that the drill is powerful and heavy, and it is used to perform specific work, then you should not worry about the price. Because anyway, nothing else can drill through 3 logs at once.

Safety precautions

Any construction or repair work is associated with certain risks, so it is important to know how to drill concrete without injury. A number of rules must be followed:

First you need to check that there are no pipes or electrical wiring in the drilling area. This can be done using a metal detector. If possible, turn off electricity in areas where repairs are being carried out. The drill is connected to a separate socket connected to the distribution panel. The metal detector may not recognize pipes or wiring under a decorative coating.

Drilling in such places must be done with caution so as not to unnecessarily damage the wall. If the house has hidden gas wiring, then the gas must be turned off during the work. It is strictly forbidden to drill seams in a block house. Communications are often laid in the channel between blocks in violation of building regulations. Be sure to check how the drill is secured in the chuck. During the drilling process, it is necessary to use protective equipment: glasses, gloves, special clothing

If you plan to work at height, wear a hat. Drilling produces a lot of dust. A protective mask or respirator must be used. When drilling through a wall, you must make sure that another person is not working on the opposite side. If the hole needs to be made at ceiling level, then the work is carried out not from a stepladder, but from scaffolding or a trestle. The stepladder is less stable. If there is no suitable support, then the stepladder is strengthened with stops. Do not turn on a tool that rests on the work surface. The pressure and speed increase smoothly.

  • To ensure stability of the tool, it is held only by the handles. Holding a working drill by the chuck is strictly prohibited.
  • In some regions there are legally set times during which noisy work cannot be carried out. This must be taken into account when drawing up an action plan.

To gain the skill, you need to drill a hole in concrete several times slowly and carefully. This will help you understand that if you follow the nuances and safety precautions, this work does not cause major problems and difficulties. Even beginners can do it on their own.

Types of drills for concrete - what are they?

How to groove a wall for wiring without a special wall chaser

How to properly paint a plastered wall with water-based paint

Sealing through holes and holes from hardware in a concrete wall

The task is to drill a large hole in the tree. The solution is wood crowns.

I welcome all visitors to my website, where I talk about various types of tools, give advice and recommendations on choosing and working with one or another tool. Today we will look at a tool with which you can easily drill a large-diameter hole in thin wood, most often plywood, fiberboard and chipboard.

The tool is a hole saw for wood, most often sold in sets with different saw diameters. This is very convenient - I bought one such set and you can drill holes of any large diameter, of course, if the saws that come in the set are of the diameter you need. Photo of this set:

For use at home, the Stayer set is quite suitable; it is optimal in terms of price and quality, moderately expensive, and comes with many saws of various diameters. It is worth noting that there are several variations of diameters, there are more complete sets with a large number of crowns, the diameters start from the smallest to the very large.

The most popular and best-selling set is 19-127 mm, this set contains 12 hole saws for wood of various diameters, it can be said to be universal, since it is almost always possible to select a crown for the desired diameter. However, its cost is 480 rubles. If you take sets with fewer attachments, then it will cost less.

So, let's look at the pros and cons of such a tool.

First the pros))

  • Versatility - the ability to choose a crown for almost any diameter.
  • Convenient suitcase, everything is stored in one place.
  • Quick drilling of fiberboard, chipboard, plywood.

Minuses:

  • The cut is not clean, unlike the holes drilled with a forstner drill.
  • Sometimes it is not possible to choose the right diameter, for example, for some spotlights.
  • Drilling depth is only 30 mm. Of course, you can drill deeper, but you will have to knock out the wood every time when the crown rests on the tree, because it is not deep.

All in all, a hole saw is a must-have tool for the home. For example, I recently pulled a 110 mm pipe through a thin partition (double layer of chipboard with a 50 mm block between them). How to drill 110mm holes in plywood?

There are several options - you can use a jigsaw, using a thin file for a figured cut. It is quite possible to drill a round hole, but you still won’t get a perfect circle.

But take a set of circular saws, choose the diameter of the bit closest to 110 mm, assemble it and drill a smooth, beautiful hole in a few minutes.

What holes can be made in an apartment building by law?

There are some legal restrictions on drilling holes in apartment buildings. They mainly concern through holes. Blind holes for fasteners and socket boxes do not threaten the integrity of the structure of a residential building and do not affect the appearance of the facade, therefore the drilling of such holes is not regulated in any way.

With through holes it is somewhat more difficult. In this case, the answer to the question “Is it possible to drill a hole in the wall?” will depend on:

  • hole diameter,
  • structural load of the wall (whether it is load-bearing or not),
  • the building has a special status (cultural heritage site, architectural monument).

Let's deal with all the cases in order.

Hole diameter

According to current legislation, permission to drill a through hole is not required if the hole diameter does not exceed 200 mm.

This provision is enshrined in some local legislation. Let us refer, for example, to Decree of the Government of St. Petersburg dated January 31, 2021 N 40 entitled “On approval of the Rules for the improvement of the territory of St. Petersburg in terms of aesthetic regulations of improvement objects and improvement elements.” It says the following: “The placement of air conditioning and ventilation systems without an outdoor unit with air supply through an opening in the wall with a diameter of up to 0.20 m is permitted on all facades without developing a design for an architectural opening.”

If the diameter of the hole you need exceeds 200 mm, then the function of the wall becomes more important. Walls in apartment buildings may or may not be load-bearing.

Load-bearing walls are a kind of spine of the building. The floors rest on them. And the load-bearing walls, in turn, rest directly on the foundation and transfer to it the load from the weight of the floors and from their own weight. Load-bearing walls are responsible for the integrity of the entire structure.

A curtain wall, on the contrary, does not affect the strength of the “skeleton” of the building. Such walls rest on the floors within one floor and do not take on the load of other structural elements.

Often the question “Is it possible to drill a hole?” occurs in relation to the outer wall. Are external walls load-bearing? There is no definite answer: it all depends on the design of the building. For example, in frame panel houses the external walls are load-bearing, but in monolithic buildings they are not.

Load-bearing walls are protected by the Housing Code of the Russian Federation. It prohibits any unauthorized actions that could lead to “impairment of the strength or destruction of the load-bearing structures of the building.” This prohibition also applies to drilling holes exceeding the permitted diameter of 200 mm. If you need such a hole or want to make an opening, arch, or niche in a load-bearing wall, you will have to obtain permits. Different institutions issue them in different cities. You can start by contacting the architectural department in the local administration or the regional housing inspection.

What about walls that are not load-bearing? Logically, through holes in them do not affect the stability of the building in any way. However, here everything depends on the size of the hole. If it is so large that it borders an opening (generally the size of a door or window), then approval will still be required.

Special status of the building

Requirements for the use of houses that are architectural monuments are enshrined in Federal Law No. 73-FZ of June 25, 2002 “On objects of cultural heritage (historical and cultural monuments) of the peoples of the Russian Federation.”

Owners of living space in a building classified as a cultural heritage site sign a security bond. This document lists all elements of the building that are under state protection. For example, if the façade of a house is one of these elements, then changes in its external appearance may require approval from the authorized bodies. Such a body may be the regional Ministry of Culture or any special institution. For example, in St. Petersburg this is the Committee for State Control, Use and Protection of Historical and Cultural Monuments.

Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen!

I need your advice. Unlike the majority, I decided to first ask for advice on whether it is possible to break down walls, and then begin this exciting process. =)

Input data: Apartment in a new building in St. Petersburg. Like, I don’t know, and I don’t even know/don’t understand where to look. No gas, underground parking available

The house looks like this: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21678677/1.jpg

23 floors, I'm on the 18th floor.

Floor plan: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21678677/2.jpg

Apartment - upper right.

Apartment plan: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21678677/3.jpg

What I would like to do: 1. I want to swap the kitchen with room No. 2. I need to transfer communications. To do this, you need to drill the wall between the kitchen and room No. 2 (marked in purple on the plan), for the hood (100mm), sink drain (50mm), cold water and hot water pipes (16mm metal-plastic). This wall is 190mm. Concrete. Where I suppose the holes are, see 2 photos below.

2. In addition, I want to redo the electrics. Replace the shield in the apartment, and extend additional. cables If everything is clear with the rest of the apartment (the partitions are plaster everywhere), then questions arise again with room No. 2 precisely because of the fear of making a 190mm hole in this wall. I bought NYM 2.5mm cables, plastic corrugation for them, I’ll just nail the plastic one to the ceiling fasteners, there is a corrugated cable in it, I will cover everything with a suspended ceiling. In room No. 2 I want to install: a 2.5mm2 cable for sockets. 3x6mm for the hob. 3x6mm for the oven. 2.5mm for kitchen apron sockets. 2.5mm separately for the refrigerator.

I assume that the holes for the cables are best placed above the door to room 2 (from the hallway along the ceiling of the corridor I’ll just stretch it to the door to room 2, and there I’ll go through a 190mm wall) then I’ll stretch it across the room, again there are two photos below , you can look there.

3. I want to install an air conditioner on the balcony. Yes, yes, right on the balcony. With a glazed balcony, when the air conditioner is working, you just need to open the window on the balcony. I want to hang the console itself (the one that hangs in the room and blows cold - I forgot what it’s called) in the upper right corner (on the plan) of room No. 2. Accordingly, to do this, you need to make a hole in the outer wall, and the wall between the kitchen and room No. 2, for all sorts of pipes and wires. These places are marked with red dots on the plan.

Having mastered 100 pages of this thread (I couldn’t do any more), I came to the following conclusion: horizontal grooves are prohibited, only vertical ones are allowed. The builders gave me an apartment with plaster - vertical grooves are easier to make - this is already a plus. For the grooves, I will call a team equipped with a wall chaser and a vacuum cleaner =). When I redo the electrics, I’ll run all the wires along the ceiling, and then I’ll put suspended ceilings there too. For through holes in the wall, I will call diamond drilling experts.

Photos: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21678677/4.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21678677/5.jpg
Accordingly, the questions that are bothering us at the moment (point by point):

1. Is it even possible to drill into the wall between the kitchen and room No. 2? Is she load-bearing? And with so many holes? 1.1 If you can make holes in it, what is the best way to do it? For the hood, I plan to make a 100mm hole, insert a sleeve into it, and an 80mm exhaust gas duct into the sleeve (the gas duct itself is wider, I just want to make it narrower when passing the wall, just in case). For hot water supply, hot water supply, and sink drain, you can make one 80mm hole, insert an iron sleeve into the hole, and push two hot water supply and hot water pipes into the sleeve and sink drain. Or is it better to make different holes for each pipe? 1.2 What is the best way to position these holes? Strictly next to each other? To the left or to the right relative to each other? 1.3 At what distances from the ceiling is it permissible to make a hole for the hood? From the doorway? 1.4 At what height is it permissible to make a hole for hot water supply, hot water supply, or sink drain? From the doorway? 2. What is the best way to make holes for cables? Is it possible to make many holes horizontally above the door? Or one big one? Or a pair of medium ones but vertically? What's the best way to do it? 3. What is the best way to make a hole in an external wall for an air conditioner? What is the best way to make a hole for an air conditioner in the wall between the kitchen and room No. 2 4. If you call specially trained people to examine the possibility of making these holes, how much can it cost? At least roughly? Can anyone recommend someone in St. Petersburg? I don’t want to get involved with anyone, otherwise they’ll take money, and I’m so fucking unsure of their qualifications. I'm not sure even about large companies. And it’s not so scary if the money disappears; woefully, the experts will give the wrong conclusion. Does it make sense to legalize these openings, as well as moving the kitchen to room No. 2?

I apologize for a lot of information, I wanted to highlight the problem as clearly as possible for you (specialists) in order to get a more correct answer. Let me remind you that I haven't done anything yet. I want to find out first, then build...

Thank you very much in advance. You will help me a lot.

Sooner or later, most people living in houses with concrete walls need to hang a cabinet, lamp, shelf or picture. At this point, the pressing question arises of how to drill through a concrete wall. It's no secret that every home master has encountered this problem at least once in his life, but not everyone knows how to solve it. Many bravely torture the drill and their own strength, but, not achieving the desired result, they give up everything until the next attempt to make a hole in the wall. But the drill eventually breaks, and the shelves remain standing somewhere in the corner of the room or collecting dust in the pantry. But there are still options - you just need to know them and be able to use them.

Concrete structures are quite strong and difficult to drill. In addition, quite often drills come across crushed stone, which is part of the concrete mixture from which wall and ceiling slabs are formed.

Holes in concrete have to be made quite often, especially during the process:

  • finishing works;
  • furniture installation;
  • air conditioner suspensions;
  • additional electrical wiring device;
  • installation of plumbing.

There are two ways to solve the problem of holes in a concrete wall:

  • an impact drill, or better yet a hammer drill, with a Pobedit drill bit;
  • diamond drilling.

It is worth noting that it will not be possible to make a hole in a concrete wall with ordinary drills, so before starting work you need to purchase drills with specially soldered plates made of high-strength pobedit alloy, which do an excellent job with concrete and brick. But it is not recommended to use them for soft materials, since pobedit drills do not cut them, but crumble them.

Metal drills

Externally, these drills are the simplest, without carbide tips. Although there are also specialized ones. The list is something like this:

  • spiral - an analogue of a concrete drill, only made of HSS, P18 or P6M5 steel;
  • conical - they are made in the form of a cone, they can be used for drilling large-diameter holes without reinstalling the drill;
  • crown - needed for holes larger than 30 mm, made of hard alloys and HSS steel, and can also be diamond-coated;
  • stepped - the tool is a cone with steps of cutting edges of different diameters. With just one such drill, you can make holes of different diameters.

How to choose a tool?

For a larger volume of work, you need a hammer drill or drill with an impact function and drills with pobedite tips. An impact drill combines rotational and reciprocating motion, which helps it cope well with lightweight concrete, and to the question of how to drill through a concrete wall, which is a load-bearing one, there is a simple answer - the best assistant will be a hammer drill, the main purpose of which is to punch through concrete fences. There is one more difference:

  • an impact drill is designed to drill holes no more than 12 mm in diameter;
  • The hammer drill is capable of drilling large holes.

Reinforcement found in the body of a concrete wall should be drilled using metal drills.

How to make large holes in walls? Choosing the optimal tool

Drilling large holes requires large nozzles, and they are different for wood and concrete. We will tell you which attachments to use for which tasks and recommend reliable drills.

To drill holes for air conditioner mounts, cable pulling, installation of a soldered pipe for water supply or connecting furniture structures, you will need a large drill. Although large nozzles for wood and concrete are somewhat similar, they are still intended for different tasks and they are not interchangeable. We will tell you about them and recommend a couple of good attachments for wood and concrete. We have already told you how to distinguish drills for wood, metal and concrete. Here we will focus on large attachments, which we do not use very often, but without which we can’t go anywhere in everyday life.

How to drill wood surfaces with a drill

Wood is the easiest material to drill. But there are also certain features of the technological process that must be observed so as not to spoil the surface and not to break the equipment. Speed ​​parameters depend on the type of wood covering. Loose samples are easy to drill. The following types of wood equipment can be distinguished:

  • flat or feather;
  • twisted, they are also single-spiral;
  • crowns, also called core drills;
  • cylindrical nozzles of the Forstner type.

Select a drill. As a rule, for small holes (less than 1.2 cm), metal equipment is used; if you need a larger diameter, you will have to fork out for a specialized wood drill.

For larger holes it is necessary to use annular crowns. Forstner-type crowns are ideal for drilling blind areas.

Particular attention must be paid to drilling the timber. Despite the fact that it is very convenient to fix, its thickness often becomes a negative factor that complicates the work. If the timber is of a standard size, then, as a rule, drills up to 25 mm are used. The drilling process always takes place at low speeds.

Types of products and their features

Let's look at what options you can find in our retail network and how they differ from each other.

Feather drills

The most common and budget option, which is quite convenient for even inexperienced craftsmen to work with. And you can also master this simple process with your own hands.

Let's look at the main advantages of this solution:

  • The diameter range varies from 10 to 60 mm.
  • The work is done quite quickly, but the quality of the hole is low, and it is unlikely to achieve an ideal result.
  • The maximum drilling depth is approximately 150 mm.
  • Products are sold either in sets of 5-6 pieces or individually, so you decide which option is right for you.
  • If necessary, you can buy an extension that clamps the drill and increases its length by 300 mm.

Large sizes are usually sold individually, small sizes are usually sold in sets.

It is impossible not to mention such an interesting option as an adjustable pen drill; this type of product can make holes with a diameter of 22 to 76 mm. The work is carried out at low speeds using fairly powerful power tools.

Adjustable nib – a new word in products of this type

Forstner drill

This product option is used very widely in furniture production due to a number of undoubted advantages:

  • The edges of the hole are perfectly smooth, which is not possible with other options.
  • High reliability and long service life allow such devices to be used for years.

What will help the home handyman?

At home, when you need to make 2-3 holes in concrete, you can get by with a regular drill, without the impact function. To do this, it is necessary, as the Pobedit drill is immersed into the body of the wall, to break the concrete from time to time with a strong metal pin (punch) matching in size to the diameter of the hole. It is used when the drill begins to “stick” in the wall. At this moment, a steel punch is inserted into the hole and they begin to hit it with a hammer or sledgehammer, trying to crush areas that are too dense and punch the hole deeper. In this case, the pin is turned a little. Then the hammerless drill can start working again.

Reconstruction of walls after relocation of sockets

When moving sockets, excess recesses must be sealed with gypsum or cement mortar. The technology for carrying out such work largely depends on the depth of the hole. If it exceeds 5 cm, then you will definitely need a piece of foam plastic or a stone of appropriate dimensions.

Step-by-step instruction:

  • Clear the space of dust and small debris.
  • Lightly moisten the walls of the hole.
  • Drive 3-4 self-tapping screws along the edges to hold the filler.
  • Fill the bottom of the hole with the selected solution.
  • Place a suitable sized pebble or foam material inside.
  • Fill the hole with the prepared composition. If cracks form, the procedure should be repeated again.
  • After the surface has dried, apply a thin layer of putty.
  • Apply fine-grained sandpaper.

Compliance with the correct sequence of restoration work guarantees a perfectly level base.

The procedure for sealing a hole from an outlet is very simple to perform; even an untrained person can easily cope with it. Source folksland.net

How and with what to seal holes in a concrete wall?

The construction or major renovation of a house is usually entrusted to professional builders. Minor defects (for example, holes in the wall) are most often repaired on their own. To do this quickly and efficiently, it is worth familiarizing yourself with different approaches to solving this problem.

Materials for filling holes

To repair a damaged wall, prepare a suitable building mixture, with which you can easily repair the damage yourself, ensuring optimal strength and durability. The composition is selected taking into account the area and type of hole or crack, as well as the area where the defect is located. Before giving preference to any option, it is worth familiarizing yourself with their pros and cons.

With its help, various bases are leveled, including a concrete wall. There are several types of putty mixtures, each of which has its own characteristics.

  • Cement putty. As the name suggests, its basic component is cement. This mixture can be used to seal holes in concrete both on the inside and outside of the building. The material is characterized by high strength and resistance to moisture. The disadvantage is that it takes a long time to dry. Cement is not plastic, so a patched wall is often covered with a network of cracks. For this reason, there is a need to apply a second layer of finishing.
  • Gypsum putty. It is not prone to cracking and can be applied in a thick layer at once to repair the defect. Its disadvantage is instability to moisture, fear of temperature changes. The scope of application of the material is dry heated rooms.
  • Acrylic putty. She is not afraid of dampness, the wall after repair turns out perfect. At the same time, the polymer mixture refers to finishing. It is applied in a thin layer and does not allow covering up a heavily damaged base. Another disadvantage of this variety is the fairly high price.

If the cracks in the concrete are small, it is enough to mask them with a thin layer of finishing mixture. For deeper cracks, choose a cement or gypsum composition. But none of the putties is used to seal through holes: the connection will be leaky.

This is a universal material, indispensable when installing window and door blocks, as well as when eliminating gaps and cracks in concrete walls. When purchasing, please note that polyurethane foam comes in two types:

  • one-component – ​​it can be used without prior preparation;
  • two-component - the components are combined using a special mixer or a construction gun.

The foam expands in volume as it exits the container, filling gaps of any size. At the same time, the mass adheres well to concrete and hardens quickly, providing a high density of the embedded area. The only negative is possible shrinkage of the material. Polyurethane foam allows you to seal deep, small holes due to the fact that it is supplied from a pressure cylinder.

This is the best material to cover up large holes and reliably repair a house wall or balcony from the outside or inside. The repair mixture has the following advantages:

  • high degree of adhesion;
  • frost resistance;
  • mechanical strength and durability;
  • stability of characteristics regardless of temperature;
  • antiseptic properties.

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