Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house in a metal-plastic pipe

Electrical wiring in pipes: basic installation methods

Recently, laying electrical cables in pipes has become quite popular. These pipes can be installed almost anywhere. Most often, pipes are installed in floor screed or wall plaster. Electrical wiring in pipes has a number of significant advantages, which include:

1. Significant reduction in line length. By laying the cable in this way, you can save money on its length.
2. The cable can always be pulled over without destroying the integrity of the wall.

Electrical wiring in pipes

When laying wires in a pipe along the floor, you will significantly save the length of the route. All outgoing wire lines must go down to the floor and pass to the installation sites of sockets and switches. With this type of installation, you should take into account that the line from the electrical panel must first rise to the junction box. Under no circumstances should you connect the box through an outlet. If this happens, then when the load increases, the wires may simply catch fire. In this case, the sockets must be connected using jumpers.

In this picture you can see information about the correct connection of the socket from the electrical panel. Corrugated pipe for electrical wiring is perfect for hidden wiring. It is more elastic than a metal product. PVC pipes are usually used for open wiring. Pipes can be with or without broaching. Pulling is only necessary if you need to quickly pull the cable through. To do this, attach a wire to the broach and simply pull it through. Retro wiring can also be done in a pipe.

Metal pipes are best used for wood flooring. They are able to provide reliable fire safety for your home. Metal pipes must be secured using special brackets.

Single-pipe schemes

The easiest way to calculate and assemble a heating system is with a single-pipe piping scheme for the coolant. The heated water in it sequentially passes from the boiler through all the radiators in the house, starting with the first and ending with the last in the chain. At the same time, each subsequent radiator receives less and less heat.

Installing a pipeline according to this scheme and connecting it to the boiler with your own hands, even if you have minimal skills, can be completed in two to three days. Plus, the costs of creating a water heating system in a house for single-pipe wiring are minimal compared to other options.

Few fittings, fittings and pipes are required here. Savings on materials are significant

And it doesn’t matter whether laminated timber or brick is chosen for the construction of the cottage. If the home is well insulated, then even a simple one-pipe system for heating it will be more than enough

To mitigate the shortcomings, a circulation pump has to be built into a single-pipe system. But these are additional costs and potential equipment breakdowns. Plus, if there are any problems in any section of the pipe, heating of the entire cottage stops.

Single-pipe horizontal

If a private house is small and one-story, then a single-pipe heating system is best done in a horizontal design. To do this, a ring of one pipe is laid in the rooms around the perimeter of the cottage, which is connected to the inlet and outlet of the boiler. Radiators cut into the pipeline under the windows.

Single-pipe horizontal design - ideal for small spaces

The batteries are connected here using a bottom or cross connection. In the first case, heat losses will be at the level of 12–13%, and in the second they are reduced to 1–2%. It is the cross installation method that should be preferred. Moreover, the coolant supply to the radiator should be done from above, and the outlet from below. So the heat transfer from it will be maximum, and losses will be minimal.

Single-pipe vertical distribution

For a two-story cottage, a single-pipe vertical heating system is more suitable. In it, the pipe from the water heating equipment goes up to the attic or second floor, and from there it goes back down to the boiler room. In this case, the batteries are also connected in series one after the other, but with a side connection. The pipeline for the coolant is usually laid in the form of a single ring, first along the second and then along the first floor, in such a heating distribution in a low-rise building.

Single-pipe vertical design - saving on materials

But an example with vertical branches from a common horizontal pipe at the top is also possible. That is, first a circular circuit is made from the boiler up, along the second floor, down and along the first floor back to the water heater. And between the horizontal sections, vertical risers are laid with radiators connected to them.

The coldest battery in such a heating system for a private house will again be the last one in the chain - at the bottom of the boiler. In this case, there will be an excess of heat on the upper floor. It is necessary to somehow limit the volume of heat transfer at the top and increase it at the bottom. To do this, it is recommended to install bypass jumpers with control valves on the radiators.

Leningradka

Both schemes described above have one common disadvantage - the temperature of the water in the last radiator turns out to be very low, it gives off very little heat to the room. To compensate for this cooling, it is recommended to improve the single-pipe horizontal heating option for a private house by installing bypasses at the bottom of the battery.

Leningradka - improved single-pipe system

This wiring was called “Leningradka”. In it, the radiator is connected from above to a pipeline running along the floor. Plus, taps are placed on the outlets to the batteries, which can be used to regulate the volume of incoming coolant. All this contributes to a more even distribution of energy across individual rooms in the house.

Preference for using PVC and HDPE pipes

Electrical wiring in HDPE and PVC pipes has a number of advantages. The main advantages include:

1. You will no longer need to use a welding machine to secure pipes.
2. These products are lighter in weight.
3. There is no corrosion on them.
4. Their service life can be up to 50 years.
5. If necessary, small diameter pipes can be bent.
6. PVC pipes will look much better than metal ones when laying open wiring.
7. Plastic pipes have excellent insulating properties.
8. This product does not collect moisture.

Justifications for underground installation of wire communications

Initially, underground cable installation requires higher costs than overhead installation. But in the end, the operation of such communications requires virtually no costs. They are not affected by such natural factors as strong winds, snowfalls, icing, they are more difficult to damage mechanically, they are protected from vandalism and theft.

In the event of damage, restoring and repairing overhead lines requires a lot of money and time, and a long absence of electricity and communications in the house causes related problems and inconveniences.

The section from the main pole to the house is always the most dangerous, as it is often broken off by snow falling from the roof and damaged by branches of fruit trees growing on the site. This is what they most often try to lay underground. Using the same method, it is best to pull the cable from the house to the bathhouse, garage and other outbuildings, so as not to install extra poles on the site.

Scheme of laying a cable in a trench from a pole to a house Source dom-expert.by

In addition to electrical cables, a modern house comes with many cables - telephone, control, computer, television. In order not to entangle it with wires, they can all be brought inside, combined into one bundle, and a pipe or corrugation for laying the cable in the ground will protect it from stray currents, groundwater, rodents and various damages.

PVC pipes for electrical wiring

PVC pipe for electrical wiring is considered the best option. You can install the wiring in the PVC pipe yourself.

To install wiring using this method, you may need additional parts: tees, connectors, crosses and additional turns.

To attach them to a suspended ceiling, you can use a dowel tie. To attach the pipe in visible places, you must use a building level. The pipe will be attached to the wall using a clip.

Electrical wiring in a metal pipe

Metal pipes for electrical wiring have recently become less common. Many people are starting to give them up. It is recommended to use these pipes for substrates that may be flammable. Their installation takes longer than similar installations of plastic products. The pipes must be connected to each other by welding or threading. In order to bend the pipe you need to use a pipe bender.

All metal surfaces must be grounded. Installation of metal products must be carried out with a slope so that condensation does not collect in them. As you can see, the process of attaching a metal pipe is quite labor-intensive. It takes not only a lot of time, but also money. The walls need not be chipped to install this wiring.

How to hide a heating system in an apartment - let's look at the methods

Heating pipes can be hidden in panel walls in several ways. And for this room there are not so many of them. The first option in panel houses is the use of grooves, and the second way is the construction of false walls. Each of the options has pros and cons, and you need to make a decision for yourself after studying these methods in detail.

A heating pipe can be hidden in the wall of a panel house when a new circuit is being assembled, or repair work is being carried out in an already functioning structure. As a rule, the wall of a panel house and the heating main are placed in different planes.

And when it is necessary to bring them into one plane, recesses are cut in the panel walls and the heating line is placed there. When doing this, you need to pay attention to the following points:

1. Before starting work in a panel house, the riser is blocked. There is no need to rush when performing these actions. And you should definitely make sure that the work is planned on the right riser.
2. If the depth of the canal exceeds half the septal thickness, then the best option would be to abandon the planned actions. So, for example, a bathroom in a panel house is a separate concrete block system. And the thickness of such panel walls will not be enough for this task.
3. The dimensions of the grooves in panel walls should not run end to end, and they should not infringe on the contour. The recesses must be made taking into account the system fasteners, its volume and the insulating layer.
4. Before covering the system in the wall of a panel house, it should be covered with insulation, otherwise condensation will form on the surface of the pipe.
5. Before fastening the structure to the wall of a panel house, you need to determine its main locations. These include joints and zones of change in direction of the coolant.

To facilitate the work of chiselling a wall in a panel house, it is recommended to use a grinder. First, markings should be made, and then along the corresponding lines, indentations are made to a certain level of depth.

ADVICE! When working with an angle grinder, not only a lot of noise arises, but also dust. Modern tools have a big advantage - the function of connecting to a construction vacuum cleaner, and this prevents the appearance of dust.

According to existing rules, the communication network in the wall of a panel house must be located in an area of ​​unobstructed access. Only those areas where the possibility of an accident is zero are left directly closed.

Wiring in HDPE pipe

HDPE pipe for electrical wiring is considered the best and optimal option. They are widely used and are used not only for plumbing, but also for laying electrical wires. Today HDPE pipes are used for installing wiring in the floor. Sometimes they are used to lay cables in the ground. These pipes can be not only smooth, but also corrugated.

It is better to choose smooth HDPE pipes. This option is considered optimal. They must be secured using special brackets. You can find a wide range of additional products on sale. These include: connectors, couplings and bends. In places where the wiring will pass from the floor to the wall, it is necessary to use connectors with an angle of 90 degrees.

Under no circumstances should HDPE products be bent, otherwise they will break. You should always cut only whole pieces. To tighten the wiring into the pipe in difficult places, you can use a nylon thread.

Video description

Confirmation of how durable a corrugated pipe is is this video:

Installation features

The electrical HDPE pipe for cables in the ground has design features that distinguish it from general purpose pipes.

• For a quick, reliable and tight connection, they are equipped with special couplings without sockets.
• To pull the cable through the pipe, the products are equipped with special probes in the form of steel wire.

Couplings for joining pipe sections Source elnow.ru

We lay the cable in a metal pipe

There are many ways to protect electrical wiring from external influences. The cable is covered with a durable sheath, walled up in the wall, and hidden behind a suspended ceiling. Finally, they are placed in special plastic boxes. All these methods really increase the survivability of the wiring, but do not protect it from mechanical stress. For example, drilling a wall, hitting with a chisel or an ax, displacing load-bearing structures, passing vehicles. The only way to make the power wiring installation self-protective is to use steel wiring pipe.

Not to be confused with steel corrugation. This method of protection is also not bad, but thin-walled corrugation is not so strong.

Installing electrical wiring in pipes really solves many problems, but the cost of organizing energy supply increases significantly. The electrical installation rules (PUE) do not provide for the conditions under which laying a cable in a metal pipe becomes mandatory. However, in practice there are situations when the safety requirements of the PUE can only be implemented by organizing cable wiring in metal pipes.

Why are wires laid in pipes?

1. Mechanical protection of electrical wiring. The power cable can run in the ground, where it is subject to constant pressure. In the laying area, regular work may be carried out using machinery. For example, metal processing, stone crushing. If fragments enter the wire sheath, they will damage it, causing a short circuit.
2. Fire protection of wiring. If control or power cables are laid openly in a room where there are high temperature zones, installation of wiring in metal pipes is required. Example: a workshop in which welding and metal processing are carried out.

   
   Electrical wiring in the kitchen, located in close proximity to the surface of the electric stove.

3. Fire protection of the premises from electrical wiring. The opposite case. If the wire catches fire for some reason, the fire will spread throughout the room. This is especially true in wooden buildings. The rules for constructing electrical installations in such systems do not require the obligatory laying of the wire in a pipe; a non-flammable sheath is sufficient and there is no direct contact with the flammable surface. Unless passing through a wall, a steel sheath is required. But practice shows that in closed cavities (under the floor, in ceilings, in the attic) laying a power cable in a metal pipe is much safer.

   
   Of course, distribution and junction boxes are also made of metal.

4. Protection from aggressive environments and atmospheric phenomena. Rain, frost, exhaust fumes in the garage, and finally the bright sun, do not prolong the life of even the most durable cable sheath. By hiding it in the pipeline, you actually ensure hidden installation, right on the street.
5. And finally, a decorative solution. Modern design trends suggest using pipelines with electrical networks as a special “loft” style. That is, you create the atmosphere of an industrial facility in a residential building.

   
   In addition, there is a vintage style in interior design. Often in wooden cottages, laying cables in pipes solves two problems: decorative and ensuring fire safety.

   
   There are non-flammable shells made of other materials, but their cost is not lower than steel. Therefore, their use becomes meaningless.

Heating pipes under a false wall

Watch the video

If you decide to hide the heating pipes in a false wall, then in this case no special difficulties arise. First, a base is built from guides, and finally it is decorated with any of the selected materials: clapboard, plasterboard, blockhouse.

There is an opinion that if you hide the heating in a false wall, the usable space of the home is significantly reduced. Fortunately, this minus is only a myth. For example, if you need to hide a heating pipeline under a window, in reality this space is practically not used.

The only thing that is lost in this situation is less than fifteen centimeters under the window sill, but it itself becomes wider by the same distance. This addition is much more useful than the unused area under the window.

If you need to hide unaesthetic designs of a heating system, then experts recommend a false wall. They call it simply the perfect solution. A very important advantage of this building is that it can be constructed without the participation of professional craftsmen. And this is a big advantage of this building.

In many situations, when it is necessary to hide the intersection of a horizontal and vertical line, or to mount a large system unit, the box may not always help out. But a false wall can handle such situations perfectly.

Another big advantage of this method is the excellent combination of construction with the overall design. When deciding to hide heating pipes under a false wall, you can also reconsider the placement of other systems; this method can also be effective for decorating them.

Which pipes to use

Oddly enough, this primarily depends not on the working properties of the material, but on the appearance. If you are not a fan of vintage or loft style, the pipeline has a purely utilitarian function. This does not mean that rusty sewer pipes can be used. But classic water pipes are easy.

Moreover, all the fittings (corners, couplings, tees) will also come in handy. Of course, such a pipe will protect electrical wiring even in the event of hostilities. Likewise, a fire will never occur due to burning wires. But the cost of the pipeline is too high for such an application.

But if you have a dismantled heating or water supply system made with pipes that are not too worn out, you can save money with a high quality of the final result.

According to a pre-compiled network layout diagram, we determine the critical places for laying. Namely: 90° bends. The best option is to install junction boxes at all corners. The wires in them will not be switched, but this method will significantly simplify the installation itself.

We assemble the structure, from one box to another. The technology is similar to installing wiring in the wall, only the cable is laid after installing the boxes.

How to stretch the cable in the pipe after its assembly?

There is only one way: using a steel string. If you've ever bought a corrugated piece, there's always a drawstring inside. It should not be thrown away. It is easily pushed into the internal cavity, then the wiring is tightened with its help. If the pipe is old (this is the option we are currently considering), its inner surface should be prepared. Perform regular cleaning with a steel brush. There should be no burrs or protruding flash from welding inside. If the material is not galvanized, it is recommended to paint the inside. There are many ways: from dragging a foam gag dipped in paint to pouring the composition along a vertically installed pipe through a watering can.

After inserting the ends into boxes, plastic bushings are installed at the ends. This is necessary to maintain the integrity of the cable.

When using special thin-walled (to save metal) pipes, such problems do not arise in principle. The proprietary pipeline is designed for cable pulling. Therefore, all corners are made with a large radius, the inner surface is smooth and coated with a composition that reduces friction.

It is not necessary to organize a dielectric layer in the boxes, just the connection of the ends should be as reliable as possible.

Metal-plastic pipe instead of corrugation

Hi all! I decided to do electrical wiring in the apartment, and since the house is a Khrushchev panel building, the idea was to lay all the wiring in the future floor screed. In this regard, the following options for organizing cable channels have appeared:

1. Special metal boxes for screeding - advantages: a thing specially adapted for this purpose, disadvantages: extremely limited choice and difficulty with bends.
2. Corrugated pipe-advantages: availability, low cost, a thing specially adapted for this purpose, disadvantages: thick walls eat up a lot of useful cross-section, pulling additional cable from corrugated pipe is difficult. 3. The cheapest metal-plastic pipes - advantages: due to the small thickness of the walls, the useful cross-section is larger, smooth walls make it easier to pull the cable, stronger than corrugations for laying in a screed, disadvantages: besides the fact that it is not specifically designed for these purposes, I don’t see others yet who can do what say? Maybe someone has already done this?

Thanks in advance to everyone who responds.

03/05/2008 at 09:44

Corrugation is more convenient. You can lay several empty corrugations for future use. Be sure to leave the probe wire in the corrugation so that you can use it to stretch the cable later. It is advisable to plan the corrugations so that they do not intersect, do not pass over each other and do not increase the height. Usually they are pulled parallel together along the walls, secured with mounting metal tape with holes. If the screed is thin, then make a groove in the floor to deepen the space for the cables.

03/05/2008 at 10:04

Corrugation is more convenient. more convenient why? You can lay several empty corrugations for future use. There will be too much, I think the reserve should be made in the cable channel itself, i.e. take a pipe of the appropriate diameter, this is where the useful cross-section is important. Are intersections undesirable just because of the increased height? I wanted, if it doesn’t work out in one layer, to put a weak point on top, I don’t want to damage the floors and ceilings.

03/05/2008 at 10:32

Why don’t you consider a special plastic pipe for laying electrical wires? Smooth, thin-walled, specially designed, there are fittings for turns and docking.

03/05/2008 at 10:34

In the house I do wiring in 16 mm metal-plastic pipes. Very comfortably. The NYM 3x2.5 cable was pushed into the pipe without probes until MAX at 15 m. And without a probe. And if there are pipe bends at the corners. I write the cable number on the pipes. Replacing the cable is very simple. And the cost of the pipe is 15 rubles/m.

03/05/2008 at 10:46

to bobkren considered it as an option, but it seems to me that it is too fragile, especially if you put it in a screed and then smooth bends for such a pipe are made using sections of corrugation, see the disadvantages above, and in metal-plastic you can turn the pipes smoothly and splice them together using a piece of pipe next size as a coupling and the strength is still incomparably higher.

03/05/2008 at 11:11

If the pipe route is well planned, there is no need to splice the pipes.

03/05/2008 at 11:46

VVS-Ryazan If the pipe route is well planned, there is no need to splice pipes. I completely agree, but it is not always possible to lay a pipe along the entire length of the route at once.

03/05/2008 at 12:13

alex3ag wrote: but it is not always possible to lay a pipe along the entire length of the route at once.

alex3ag wrote: I agree completely

It splices without problems: the two ends of the 16 pipe fit tightly into the 25 pipe. I did it myself. And it seems that even water will not get into these joints. And yet, I tried to set fire to a metal-plastic pipe - it WILL NOT BURN. It is clear that my piece of pipe of a particular brand did not burn. I assume that pipes from other companies do not burn - the material should not be different.

Safety requirements when organizing wiring in pipes

Fire safety is at the highest level, mechanical protection is just as good. What about electrical safety?

Even if the installation of electrical wiring is carried out in accordance with the PUE, in steel pipes there is always a chance that the phase will get on the shell (actually on the metal). Therefore, cables are selected with double or triple insulation.

This is a necessary measure: if, when pulling the wiring through the joints, the outer shell is scuffed, the overall insulation will not be compromised.

In addition, a steel pipe with a cable whose voltage exceeds 42 volts must be grounded. And not to the working zero (this is completely absurd), and not to the protective grounding running in the cable. This must be an external bus, independently connected to a common ground block.

This measure will not only protect you from electric shock (if contact with the phase does occur). Grounding the steel pipe ensures that there is no electrical interference from the power cable. That is, there will be no interference from television, computer network or other signal wires.

Electrical pipes must be protected against corrosion. If you are using regular steel gauges, paint them.

The system must be relatively sealed. Not in terms of creating a vacuum in the pipes, but to protect against moisture getting inside. Evaporation from the pipe takes an extremely long time. And keeping wires in a damp environment will sooner or later lead to destruction of the insulation.

There should be no direct contact with heating pipes. There is no need for local heating: the distance to the hot pipe is at least 20 cm. If there is a source of open fire near the pipe, or another point with a high temperature (electric heater, oven...), it is advisable to place a metal screen in front of the pipe with electrical wiring. Like those that are mounted on car exhaust systems.

Laying power and subscriber cables in the pipeline is a little more labor-intensive than conventional methods. But you get serious bonuses in the form of absolute fire and mechanical protection.

Accounting and control

The sampling and metering unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each device indicates the direction of water flow for it; it must be observed during assembly.

Water supply sampling and metering unit assembled

The unit is assembled with waterproofing of the connections using FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having first shut off the water; Before supplying water, you must remember to close the shut-off valve. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, that requires turning off the water supply to the neighbors on the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. Meter readings must be clearly readable without any additional operations (removing the hatch, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble part of a solid pipeline, sometimes in a rather bizarre configuration, to connect the metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transition couplings from plastic to metal MPV - an internal threaded coupling. The plastic is connected to the metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

Meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water according to consumption. The factory seal is there (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one can get into the meter and twist or file anything there. The factory seal must be protected; Without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

To install water meters, you need to notify the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives; the inspector does not need zero readings; he will record the initial ones and seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water according to consumption will be made after registration of metering devices.

GMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow water to be stolen with its help, and this device is not subject to sealing, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter’s turbine can become clogged with sludge. The HMS with a bulb filter is connected after the metering devices; filter - immediately after the GMS. Aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but there is no point in placing the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

How to use PVC pipes for electrical wiring

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) has excellent technical characteristics, making pipes made from it extremely popular in construction. PVC pipes for electrical wiring fully comply with the requirements for this type of product when laying electrical networks: they provide simple installation, the ability to replace the cable if necessary, reliable insulation and even aesthetics. What other advantages do PVC pipes have for laying cables, what types are on the market, and how to install them when arranging power supply, you can find out from our article.

The excellent performance characteristics of electrical pipes have made them an indispensable component of power supply systems

The advantage of this option

Given that there are different installation methods, what are the advantages of this method? Since the pipe is round in shape, it is ideal for laying wire or cable in it. As the conductor is pushed through, it bends less frequently, requiring less effort. Such structures have a smooth turn, unlike the box, which also facilitates installation and protects the wire from breaking.

The round section can withstand more load than any other. Cables laid underground in this way will be more protected from compressive loads and surface deformation, for example, during building subsidence.

Characteristics of electrical PVC pipes

The electrical pipe is made of self-extinguishing polyvinyl chloride and high and low pressure polyethylene. These materials are endowed with technical characteristics that allow the installation of pipes of this type to create cable support systems. In addition, the PVC electrical pipe serves as an additional layer of insulation for the cable, provides fire resistance and protects the wiring from mechanical damage.

Advantages

PVC pipes have a number of undeniable advantages:

• durable: they have original strength, are not subject to corrosion, are resistant to humid and aggressive environments, and to ultraviolet radiation;
• hygienic and environmentally friendly;
• easy to install: lightweight, easy to saw, glue, solder;
• have a low deformation coefficient;
• do not bear a significant load on the structure;
• provide (with appropriate accessories) complete tightness, in which the cable is reliably protected from the penetration of dust and moisture;
• practical: they have a low price, during operation they do not require painting or other maintenance.

The principle of laying cables in a groove

In addition, cable installation with their use is carried out quickly and efficiently, this is facilitated by the absence of roughness on the inner wall of the pipe. Such systems are practical to use, since the electrical wiring in them is replaced without the need to open the trench and dismantle the ceiling.

Due to these qualities, PVC pipes for cable laying have no alternative today. They are an indispensable component of power supply systems and are successfully used in the construction of residential, industrial and administrative facilities.

Varieties

Electrical PVC pipes are usually divided into two main categories:

1. smooth hard (smooth-walled);
2. corrugated (flexible corrugated pipes).

Rigid PVC pipe for cable is used mainly outside building structures, corrugated pipe is used when laying electrical supply systems inside ceilings (under plaster, in a floor screed, etc.).

Also, their classification is determined according to GOST 18599-83, which distinguishes 4 categories of electrical pipes:

• T – heavy;
• C – average;
• SL – medium-light;
• N – non-standard.

They can be produced with different diameters: 8 ÷ 250 mm; with different wall thicknesses and different colors.

Smooth and corrugated PVC electrical pipes in different colors

The corrugated PVC pipe with a probe for cable pulling deserves special attention. The advantageous feature of this model is the presence of a special rigid steel wire, which greatly facilitates the process of installing the wire inside the cable support system.

Advantages of Ekoplast corrugated pipes

The choice of corrugated pipe for electrical wiring is determined not only by the size and material of manufacture. The Ekoplast catalog contains corrugated HDPE and PVC pipes of several series:

• lightweight - designed for a load of 350 N per 0.05 m length, which is comparable to the impact of a concrete layer of up to 15 cm;
• heavy – withstands a force of 750 N, corresponding to a concrete thickness of no more than 40 cm;
• with broaching – minimizes labor costs for installation;
• without broaching - reduces the cost of materials with a significant length of networks;
• color – marks lines by load groups, cable type, priority.

The use of corrugated pipes made of PVC and HDPE can be significantly limited by fire safety requirements (PVC emits harmful compounds when heated, and HDPE burns well), therefore EKOPLAST offers a wide range of halogen-free pipes and accessories (HF and HFR), as well as E90 pipes for construction fire-resistant cable line (OKL).

Localization of the production of corrugated wires in Russia allows us to quickly re-adjust equipment in order to maintain warehouse stocks and low prices, a significant share of which are logistics costs.

Compatible accessories for corrugated pipes of various series: sealed cable glands, couplings for connecting junction boxes and reinforced pipes, plugs, holders, also reduce the overall cost of installation of cable wiring.

Ekoplast corrugated pipe is technologically advanced, safe, and affordable!

Installation of cable in PVC pipe

Use of components

The advantage of laying cables in PVC pipes (compared to metal ones) is obvious:

• PVC electrical pipe is cheaper;
• does not require grounding;
• under normal use it can last up to 50 years;
• can be operated at temperatures from –25 to + 70 0 C;
• do not form or accumulate condensation;
• do not require expensive welding;
• do not require maintenance.

In addition, when using these pipes, the cost of the project is significantly reduced; insulation for PVC pipes is not needed, it itself plays the role of protection, therefore the cable can be used in a lightweight design.

For open wiring (walls, ceilings), according to current standards, a smooth PVC pipe is used for cables; for laying cables inside structures made of fireproof materials, a corrugated pipe is used.

To ensure high-quality installation, it is recommended to use additional components, which are selected based on the diameter and model of the pipe. These include tees, connectors, turns, crosses, dowel-ties, clips, etc. Consultants from the Electrical Products Department will help you select all the necessary parts.

Turn, Tee and Connector for Electrical Pipe

It is recommended to work using a building level, this will ensure the accuracy of the location of the system and its normal functioning in the future.

Installation technology

The installation process looks like this:

1. Mark the future placement of pipes with electrical cables. In this case, the distance from the heating elements must be at least 0.5 m so that the cables do not heat up. The locations of the panel boxes are also noted.
2. Determine the required number of fasteners at the rate of 1 fastener for every 10-15 cm of pipe.
3. Prepare all the necessary elements and check that the voltage in the electrical network does not exceed 1500 V.
4. If necessary, cut the products into sections of the required length.
5. They prepare the products - straighten the wires, and, if necessary, clean the inner surface of the pipes.
6. Pull the cable through the pipeline elements, and then install its sections in accordance with the diagram.

Diagram of cable pulling in a pipe system

1. The pipeline is fastened at regular intervals in accordance with the markings.
2. Panel boxes are installed in which the cables being laid are connected into nodes.
3. Check the reliability of the insulation between the laid wires.

Installation subtleties

A smooth or corrugated pipe for electrical wiring is laid taking into account the following important points:

• When installing pipes in the floor or brick wall, use metal brackets; you can fill the system only after it is securely fastened.
• When a pipe passes from the floor to the wall or when it enters a slab cavity, use special corrugated connectors.
• Do not allow any creases to form, as this will make it difficult to pull the cable later.
• Always use solid pieces of pipe to connect two points in a straight line.
• When cutting the broach with a side cutter, do not let the wire go inside the pipe; you will have to remove it by making an additional cut on the pipe.
• If the pipe kit does not include a special probe, use an elastic metal or nylon broach. It must first be run into the pipe, and then the cable attached to it must be pulled through.
• The wires must be prepared for pulling; to do this, they must be secured in several places with PVC electrical tape.
• To prevent the harness from slipping, it is necessary to securely connect it to the broach. To do this, wrap the wire around the bundle and tighten it with pliers. The ends of the cable should not stick out in different directions, otherwise pulling will be impossible.

Double-wall corrugated pipe for cable laying

The main purpose of corrugated pipe is to lay internal cable systems, but some models can be used for external underground installation. Such models are double-walled corrugated pipes with a diameter of up to 200 mm.

Standard PVC pipe for cable is used not only for laying electrical power cables, but also for laying low-current cables: telecommunications, telephone, communication and alarm cables.

Two-pipe system

This wiring option is also called parallel. It involves two pipes, one of which is supply, the other is return.

Advantages of a two-pipe system:

• Low temperature loss at remote nodes.
• It is possible to install additional radiators in the system if necessary.
• Possibility of setting the temperature on individual batteries.
• There are no restrictions on the number of floors.
• There is no need to use a powerful pump, as in the case of a single-pipe system.
• If one battery does not function, this does not in any way affect the performance of the entire system.
• To carry out repair work, it is not necessary to turn off the entire system and empty it.

Electrical wiring in plastic pipes

Plastic pipes are made from vinyl plastic, polyethylene, polypropylene. The advantages of vinyl plastic include weather resistance, water resistance and comparative non-flammability (self-extinguishing when the flame is removed). The disadvantages are low heat resistance (up to 80°C). Polyethylene is frost-resistant, non-hygroscopic, but is subject to aging and is flammable, which prevents its use in open wiring.

Polypropylene is more durable and heat-resistant, but has increased fragility at low temperatures, so polypropylene pipes should not be transported, stored or installed at temperatures below 0°C. At positive temperatures, these pipes can easily replace polyethylene pipes. However, polypropylene pipes cannot be used in livestock buildings.

It has been established that electrical wiring in plastic pipes must be protected from short circuits and overloads. It is prohibited to install them in explosive and fire hazardous areas, in medical institutions, and social security institutions. In children's, entertainment and cultural and educational institutions, vinyl plastic pipes are allowed to be laid only hidden, and polyethylene pipes are completely prohibited.

The same applies to wiring in the attics of buildings, as well as to high-rise residential, public and administrative buildings. Open laying of polyethylene pipes is prohibited in all cases, and vinyl plastic pipes, except for the cases indicated earlier. It is prohibited to use vinyl plastic pipes in buildings below the third degree of fire resistance, and polyethylene pipes below the second degree of fire resistance, that is, in buildings that have flammable walls, ceilings and partitions.

Polyethylene pipes are allowed to be used in the same premises as vinyl plastic pipes, but hidden: directly on fireproof bases of floors and structures; in floor grouts and in foundations for equipment, provided that light-type pipes are protected from mechanical damage. In livestock buildings, electrical wiring should be protected only by automatic circuit breakers with combined releases.

The laying of electrical wiring in closed wall niches is considered as open. For example, if the pipeline is installed at a temperature of 20°C and the possible heating temperature is 55°C, then the corresponding temperature change in the length of the pipeline will be a very significant value of 2.8 mm per 1 m. If the pipeline is installed at a lower temperature, for example at 5 °C, then the temperature change in its length will be even greater, which is generally undesirable.

According to the PUE, with the maximum permissible temperature of wires heated by normal load current equal to 65 C, the possible temperature of the pipes, taking into account heat transfer and depending on the room temperature, can vary from approximately 35 to 60 ° C. Temperature changes in vinyl reservoir pipelines can be compensated due to their configuration (bends, “ducks”, expansion joints).

There should be no places in the pipelines where moisture accumulates (“water bags”), which inevitably condenses from the air when temperature changes. Therefore, pipes are laid with a slight slope towards the boxes, and special boxes are placed in horizontal sections and around obstacles to remove moisture.

Electrical wiring in pipes is installed in such a way that, if necessary, the wires can be pulled out of the pipes and replaced with others. To do this, the distance between the boxes is chosen to be no more than 10 m on straight sections, 7.5 m on a section with one corner and 5 m on a section of the route with two corners. You cannot connect wires in pipes; Any connections or branches are made only in boxes.

Bend a pipe with a radius of at least four times the diameter of open wiring and six times for hidden wiring; if it is very difficult to open the electrical wiring (concrete masses), then a bending radius of at least ten times the diameter is required. Low-density polyethylene pipes with a nominal diameter of up to 25 mm can be bent directly, without preheating, with a bending radius equal to at least six times the diameter. For large bending radii, it is permissible to lay pipes without heating with an increased nominal diameter. In all other cases, heating is required.

Corrugation dimensions and diameter

Each type of hose for installing electrical wiring with a stiffener includes several samples with different cross-sections.

PVC corrugation

The diameters of polyvinyl chloride sleeves are given in the table:

The wall thickness varies from 5 mm to 15 mm.

PVC corrugation has a thickness of up to 15 mm.

Reinforced sleeve

Reinforced corrugated pipe for laying cables is sold in the following sections:

With or without probe

For convenient pulling of wires inside the corrugation, a steel wire is placed in it - a probe (broach).

The diameters of such a sleeve are presented in the table:

The dimensional error is ±0.4 mm.

How to choose the size of corrugated pipe

In most cases, corrugation is selected depending on the consumer to whom the line leads:

• to lighting devices – 13 mm;
• to switches and sockets – 20 mm;
• between the junction box and the electrical panel – 25 mm;
• from one electrical panel to another - 32 mm;
• in passages between floors, in walls - 40 mm.

Low-current alarm wires, antennas, internet, etc. require 25 mm.

In each case, it is advisable to provide a spare line in case of cable damage.

Why is the truth in the pipe for electrical wiring?

Initially, the distribution of electricity to residential and industrial premises, social and transport infrastructure facilities was carried out in the open. Moreover, the open method continues to be actively used to this day - just remember the same power lines or trolleybus wires. The open arrangement of the wiring is beneficial due to the simplest diagnosis of breaks, easy access to the point of failure and a significantly lower cost estimate for installation and possible repairs.

However, there can be no question of any aesthetics of the premises in the presence of tangles of snaking wires on the ceilings and walls. Decorating such “intricacies of construction” is difficult, expensive and often unacceptable from a fire safety point of view. The only exceptions are low-current telephone and alarm wires - but special skirting boards with an internal cable channel are already being produced for them.

Such products are widely used for repair when laying laminate flooring, installing and repairing parquet, and even when installing self-leveling floors. The main thing is to remember that there is a strict limit on the loads of the wires laid in them (usually up to 24 Volts). Standard power supply cannot be placed in plastic skirting boards with cable channels, and pulling the cable over the repaired walls will deprive the repair of its aesthetic meaning. The obvious solution is to conceal the installation of cables and wires, but even with this the situation is ambiguous.

Everyone knows the hidden arrangement of wiring in Soviet-built houses - power cables were either simply walled up in a brick wall, or were located in grooves in a concrete wall. In fact, this is a completely worthy and economical method of distributing electricity throughout residential premises - if you ignore the rapid progress in the market of building and finishing materials, if you neglect the durability and reliability of the wiring.

Installation of electrical wiring in pipes allows:

• Perform work in wooden, plastic and other structures with a fire hazard;
• Achieve cable functionality for many decades due to their “pipe protection”;
• Save on the insulation of the wires themselves - inside the pipes it does not require layers, screens, armored braids, etc.;
• It is easy to diagnose a possible malfunction of hidden wiring and provide partial replacement of electrical wiring without opening walls and ceilings, floors, partitions and ceilings;
• Avoid damage during the repair process. When removing a wire embedded in alabaster, concrete or brickwork, damage to the insulation or current-carrying conductors is likely - wiring in pipes guarantees the absence of such repair collisions;
• The current load on the conductors inside the pipes is allowed higher than when they are located in the thickness of the walls due to natural ventilation due to internal gaps.

Which pipes to choose for laying electrical wiring - metal or plastic, rigid structures or flexible corrugation - depends on the material of the walls, the finishing materials used, the current load and other repair specifics.

When choosing a method, how to protect it and how to arrange the electrical wiring, it is important to set priorities correctly - safety, reliability and maintainability must prevail over savings and speed of completion of the project.

Steel pipe for electrical wiring - when is metal relevant in walls?

First of all, when the walls are wooden. A short circuit in the thickness of a tree is a nightmare for any owner and for all residents of wooden buildings; it can lead to fatal consequences without any quotes. In any flammable material, wiring inside metal pipes is relevant, but primarily in wooden buildings.

The large weight of the metal structure and its ability to independently conduct electric current lead to the need to perform work precisely in place. Steel pipes must have a significant diameter; conductors inside them should be placed freely. Saving on wire insulation is unacceptable in this case; each contact must be thoroughly insulated. When installing sockets and switches in wooden walls, the “glasses” for their installation must also be metal.

In old houses, interfloor floors were often made of wood, so wiring between floors in the thickness of such floors must be done inside a metal pipe. For small areas it is possible to use flexible metallized corrugations. Wiring in metal tubes is expensive and labor-intensive, but it is better not to skimp on the risk of fire...

Important nuances of grounding

Protective grounding performs a safety function in the event of human contact with electric current.

Its impact is manifested as follows:

• at 0.6-1.5 thousand µA the effect of electricity on the human body is felt;
• at 2-4 thousand μA, fingers tremble;
• at 5-7 thousand μA, the hands cramp;
• at 10-15 thousand µA without outside help it is almost impossible to release the hand with the conductor;
• at 20-25 thousand μA, severe pain appears, breathing is difficult, and it is impossible to take your hands off the wire;
• at 50-80 thousand μA, paralysis of the respiratory system occurs, and disruptions in the functioning of the heart are observed.

PVC pipe for electrical wiring - what about the alternatives?

Plastic pipes for hidden electrical wiring are used widely and everywhere. This is due to the following repair advantages that PVC pipes for electrical wiring, rigid HDPE “pipelines” and other plastic-based products have:

• Corrosion resistance and immunity to chemically active substances;
• Ease. Compared to a metal pipe, a plastic pipe is 5-7 times lighter, and this greatly simplifies installation, which is important when working at heights, on ceilings, in places with limited access;
• Possibility of flexible installation. This property of plastic pipes should be used with caution, because... according to GOST and PUE standards, the location of conductors inside the walls “should be straight and predictable from the outside wherever possible”;
• It is possible to install plastic protection for cables and wires yourself, with minimal repair experience. Welding joints of steel pipes requires specialized equipment and skills;
• The low cost of electrical installation work and the absence of harmful emissions into the atmosphere are not superfluous qualities for residential premises.

The differences between types of plastic pipes are due to the formula of their composition. The HDPE pipe for electrical wiring is made of low-density polyethylene; it has the best resistance to any corrosion. In a humid environment, for laying cables under a roof with questionable reliability, a HDPE pipe will be optimal. LDPE plastic means high-density polyethylene; it is extremely resistant to impacts and bending, but is sensitive to oxidation and, in general, the effects of gases. Polyethylene pipes are economical, but the technology for their production itself requires thick walls, so the cheapness is virtual.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes are available in standard rigid form and in the form of corrugated flexible hoses. Their main advantages are considered to be excellent strength, rigidity and minimal linear expansion during installation and operation. A wide range of diameters (from 15 to 63 mm), a wide selection of adapters and other accessories, the compatibility of corrugated and straight pipes allows all electrical wiring to be laid in the same material. PVC pipes have higher temperature resistance and fire safety. They are not afraid of temperature changes from -25 ˚C to + 60 ˚C.

In most major rewiring work, PVC pipelines are used. They are optimal from the point of view of long-term operation and reliable protection of power wires. In wooden walls, cables should be protected with metal pipes, in rooms with high humidity - with polyethylene pipes. When developing the electrification of complex and/or extended objects, it is possible (and necessary!) to use various types of pipes for electrical wiring.

Types of existing pipes

The main advantages of plastic materials are excellent corrosion resistance, extremely low weight and a high level of flexibility.

As mentioned above, the choice of tube material will depend on the room in which the cable is laid, its main features and conditions.

plastic pipes are fairly well-known and familiar elements to all of us - polyvinyl chlorides;

The main advantages of plastic materials are excellent corrosion resistance, extremely low weight, high level of flexibility and fairly low price.

If it’s too early to talk about price, then excellent corrosion resistance and the highest level of ductility in relation to cable routing are indicators that you need to pay special attention to

Also keep in mind that installation work with materials such as plastic pipes is quite simple and does not require special equipment or special skills.

Welding of elements can be done with conventional torches, especially since here, unlike plumbing, tightness is not so important.

steel;

In dry rooms, which are not characterized by high humidity and penetration from the outside, you can use a more affordable option for laying cables - steel pipes. As a rule, a thin-walled sample of material is used, the cross-section of which is approximately 15-20 mm. Steel pipes require the craftsman to have special equipment for welding.

You can also use threadless couplings to connect individual sections.

If steel pipes for laying cables go outside, it is better to paint them, because an unpainted pipe is susceptible to corrosion.

When installing a steel pipe, the following rules must be observed:

• cleaning and subsequent painting;
• bends no more than 90C;
• if several bends are expected in a section, then its length should not exceed 5 meters, and when bending, it is necessary to avoid crushing or breaking the pipe;
• complete tightness - in no case should open areas and cracks be allowed, since even air trapped inside the route can lead to oxidation of the contacts;
• in case of laying parallel routes, both pipes should be equidistant approximately 10 cm from each other.