How to feed a gas boiler with water

Let's consider the reasons why the pressure in a double-circuit boiler can constantly increase (or rather, increase until the pressure relief valve in the boiler operates). Considering that the operating principle of most boilers is similar, this malfunction can manifest itself in various models: Baxi, Ariston, Buderus, etc.

When the pressure in a double-circuit gas boiler drops, this is somehow understandable, but when the pressure itself increases! However, this is exactly what I once had to face - having bought a renovated apartment, signed a sales contract and received the keys, I did not spend the night in it and in the morning I discovered puddles of water on the floor and a damaged cabinet for a gas boiler.

Why do you have to add water to the system?

For the boiler to work correctly, it is necessary to maintain the recommended pressure in the system. Obviously, for this to happen, a constant volume of coolant must circulate in the water heating system. And it can change during operation even in a perfectly designed and assembled structure. Loss of coolant occurs when:

The air is bleed through the Mayevsky valve located on the radiator. As you know, you have to open the air vent and wait until a trickle of water comes out of it.
In automatic mode, excess pressure is released through a safety valve due to a change in the operating mode of the system. In this case, the coolant escapes into the atmosphere in a gaseous state.
The filters are cleaned from mechanical contaminants.
There are significant or microscopic leaks, for example through dismountable connections.
In systems with natural circulation, water evaporates through an open expansion tank.

Why do you need to monitor the pressure in the boiler?

The operation of the boiler is accompanied by changes in pressure in the circuit, which should be kept within established limits. This means that when the boiler is turned on, the pressure gauge must show a minimum bar value, and during operation the pressure cannot exceed the permissible level. Thus, three types of pressure are defined:

dynamic pressure is the magnitude of the coolant voltage circulating in the heating circuit;
static pressure - measured at idle and determines the load exerted by the coolant on the heating circuit;
maximum pressure is the permissible load limit at which normal operation of the system is allowed.

If the pressure in the gas boiler increases, the consequence is that the normal operation of the system ceases; water is periodically released through the relief valve or from the expansion tank.

How recharge works

The main task of the make-up unit is to add the missing coolant to the heating system until the operating pressure returns to normal. In most cases, heating make-up is connected to a cold water supply, but the system can also be powered from a storage tank. There are two ways to replenish the coolant volume.

Manual mode. It is usually used in small systems. The user himself periodically monitors the pressure using the pressure gauge and, when necessary, opens the appropriate taps. Water flows by gravity, or a make-up pump is used for heating. In the simplest gravity installations, water is collected until it comes out of an overflow pipe welded to the expansion tank.
Automatic recharge of the heating system. If the pressure in the system drops below the set value, the heating system feed valve (or electric valve/valve) is activated, which opens the flow hole. If necessary, voltage is applied in parallel to the sediment, and water will begin to forcefully enter the system. When the pressure readings return to normal, the valve will close and the pumping equipment will turn off. Sometimes the power supply is part of the heat generator. The advantage of using automation is that there is no need to engage in control; everything happens without the participation of the homeowner. The disadvantage is the fact that another element appears in the circuit that needs power supply.

Note that this unit is used not only for adding water during operation. Through it the following is carried out:

initial filling of coolant into the system;
complete discharge of water (for example, for repairs);
water preparation (coarse filtration, softening);
flushing the system;
crimping.

Pressure check

You can keep pressure in the network under control using special devices that measure and display characteristics on a digital or mechanical display. The manufacturer installs sensors on the outlet pipe of the equipment.

When installing the system, pressure gauges are placed next to the collectors that distribute the coolant throughout the floors and rooms of the building.

The boiler safety kit produces:

Control over temperature and pressure in the circuit.
Protecting the device from explosion by releasing excess pressure.

If a dual-circuit model is used, enhanced control is needed. Pressure changes can occur in different parts of the heating network. Its characteristics also depend on temperatures.

Due to the closed circuit, pressure develops in the system, thus increasing its level of safety. And with a more massive pressure, the temperature characteristics of boiling water also increase.

When starting the boiler, the pressure gauge data is checked while the heating water has not yet warmed up. At this moment, the pressure should be slightly higher than the reddish arrow. The setup is done by a specialist from the office servicing the equipment. It is performed at the debut launch of the system.

The next time she uses it, she does it once a week. The system is replenished with water as needed. With all this, the coolant must have a temperature of less than 40 degrees.

Make-up device for heating system

Actuating mechanism

If replenishment is carried out mechanically, then all manipulations are carried out using one valve. Automatic units use various types of remotely controlled valves. But in most cases, a pressure reducing valve for automatically recharging the heating system is used. Typically this is a combination device that includes a shut-off valve, a check valve and a pressure reducer. It can be mechanical or have electrical contacts to control the pump.

The device is adjusted to the required operating pressure range. When the lower coolant pressure threshold is reached (say, 5 or 10 percent), the membrane releases a spring, which moves the working rod with a cone that closes the flow hole of the valve. After pumping the system to the required pressure level, the membrane compresses the spring and closes the flow with a rod.

The valve response pressure is adjusted using a screw located on top of the device. Once installed in the desired position, it is secured with a lock nut. To visually monitor the pressure during adjustment, the valve is equipped with a pressure gauge.

Check valve

Under no circumstances should hot water from the heating system enter cold water supply pipes. Firstly, it can lead to the development of bacteria in drinking water. Secondly, waste coolant can be quite harmful to humans, since corrosion products accumulate in it. Thirdly, this way we lose coolant, which again negatively affects the operation of the heating installation. Reverse movement of the coolant can occur during replenishment if the pressure in the supply line is insufficient (in the water supply it is lower than in the heating system), or during operation if the shut-off valve “does not hold.”

The check valve is always installed at the rear of the actuator and is often built into the pressure reducing valve body. Recently, the make-up unit is also equipped with a check valve at the front or a so-called “flow breaker” is used.

Pump and accumulator

The main task of the pump is to increase the pressure in the supply pipeline, for example, when the pressure in the cold water supply pipes is lower than in the heating system. Therefore, it will not be possible to add water to the heating either manually or automatically. And if the check valve is absent or malfunctioning, there will also be an additional loss of coolant.

Important! For private homes, vertical submersible heating pumps can be used, which take water from wells.

A storage tank connected to the make-up unit allows you to always have a supply of water with which you can replenish the system, regardless of the pressure level in the drinking pipeline. To manually replenish the coolant in gravity circuits, a container is used that is located above the expansion tank, that is, somewhere in the attic. Automatic recharge systems often use a hydraulic accumulator with a membrane, which is always under pressure.

Filter elements

Impurities found in water can negatively affect the operation of heating and even damage heating appliances and devices. It is best to filter and prepare water immediately at the “inlet”. For mechanical cleaning of the coolant, mesh filters are used, which are mounted upstream of the pressure reducing valve. Sometimes mud collectors are an integral part of the actuator. To soften water (mainly to combat calcium salts), filters are used that bind and precipitate “unnecessary” substances using chemical reagents.

Makeup valve manufacturers

The main manufacturers of the valves in question are Watts (Germany) and Emmeti (Italy).

Production by Watts Industries (part of the WATTS WATER TECHNOLOGIES concern) dates back to 1874. It is the largest manufacturer of engineered sanitary ware in the European Union. It produces heating, water supply and water treatment systems for residential, commercial and public buildings. The company's make-up valves have proven themselves to be high-quality, reliable, and efficient.

Watts has over 20 awards from international industry exhibitions for innovation in the heating and water supply sector.

Emmeti is a company producing components for heating systems since 1976. Its main goal is quality. Scientific developments, innovative technologies and sustainable development are key success factors. Emmeti products have quality certificates in accordance with ISO 9001 standards. EMMETI make-up valves are distinguished by high quality materials and workmanship.

make-up valve is a simple way to avoid interruptions in the operation of the heating system. There is no need to check the pressure from time to time, shut off the pump and manually replenish the amount of liquid. With a little investment and time for installation, the heating system will function without failure, and the house will always have a favorable microclimate.

About connecting the make-up

The ideal place to create a recharge unit is an area with minimal pressure, preferably at the lowest point. Make-up is done on the return line, however, so that too cold water does not enter the heat generator (this is not very good for the heat exchanger of a working boiler), the pressure reducing valve is somewhat removed from the boiler or even placed on the DHW pipe if the heating device is double-circuit. In order to be able to service/repair the automatic make-up unit and not turn off the heating during this time, it is connected using a bypass and shut-off valves.

Describe your question in as much detail as possible and our expert will answer it

The make-up tank in the photo has a ball installed at the top.... maybe there is a pipe below in the tank itself? And why such tanks, if there are balls right below.

Is it necessary to turn off the boiler when recharging a closed heating system?

Before the start of the heating season, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive maintenance of the heating circuit. Such measures include flushing the system and checking the functionality of the equipment. After this, you need to fill the closed heating system and bleed all the air. There are several ways to fill a contour. It is very important to monitor the pressure level while performing work. The optimal operating pressure values are indicated in the passport of each circuit element.

Where to install?

Craftsmen recommend installing a make-up valve for the heating system near the expansion tank. And this is logical, because the tank always works, and, naturally, immediately after the pressure drops due to the operation of the tank, it is automatically adjusted by the valve.

The pressure instability is short-lived and will not affect system performance.

You should not install the heating system auto-feed valve on the return circuit near the boiler. Otherwise, a dose of cold liquid may cause malfunctions.

There is no need to install the device on the supply circuits either. Otherwise, too hot water can damage the elements of the unit itself.

Selection of coolant

If you fill the circuit with low-quality coolant, the equipment will not last as long as it could. Therefore, before filling the heating system in a private home, you need to select a coolant suitable for your situation. There are only two options - water or non-freezing liquid. In a house where you live constantly, it is better to give preference to water, since there are fewer problems with it, especially if it is distilled. Such water contains almost no impurities of salts and metals, which negatively affect all elements of the heating circuit.

Non-freezing liquid thickens at sub-zero temperatures. It is used when the heating works from time to time. The characteristics of non-freezing liquid impose some restrictions:

high degree of fluidity - leakage may appear where water would not leak;
Do not overheat - when heated to 95 degrees, it decomposes into acid and other elements;
if the liquid has thickened, then heating should be gradual;
Anti-freeze has a resource (depending on the manufacturer, on average 2 seasons).

Polymer thermal insulation Penoplex has one of the lowest thermal conductivity coefficients.

If you insulate a timber house with Penoplex, the wood will not breathe and will rot very quickly.

Antifreeze cannot be used if you have a double-circuit boiler installed. Liquid can seep through protective gaskets, so it happens that colored water flows from a hot water tap. In any case, only non-toxic antifreeze based on propylene glycol should be poured into the system. After all, there is also antifreeze based on ethylene glycol - this is car antifreeze. Some people also pour it into the heating system, but we do not recommend doing this.

Purpose of an additional tank of a double-circuit boiler

Typically, integrated compensation tanks in gas boilers have a volume of about 6-8 liters. They are designed to compensate for expansion of 120 liters. coolant. circulating in the heating system. Under normal operating conditions, such an expansion tank is sufficient for a small apartment or house.

If the heating area is large, heated floors are installed or there are many radiators in the rooms, the volume of the standard integrated tank will not be large, because more water is consumed.

When heated, excess coolant completely fills the tank. And since there is no free space left in the tank, the water pressure increases in the heating system itself and an emergency release occurs by the safety valve. it is unlikely that boiler to switch on automatically

To avoid such negative consequences, an additional expansion tank with a membrane is installed in the heating system in a design for a double-circuit gas boiler. When the standard tank is one hundred percent full, the water goes into the reserve hydraulic tank. After cooling, the liquid returns to the radiators.

How does the boiler feed tap work?

valve for small-sized boilers is usually located at the bottom of the body, next to the cool water supply pipe. And it is a manual valve that connects this line with the heating return line.

How to fill a heating system through make-up

Filling a closed-type heating system through make-up is only possible if the circuit is connected to a water supply system. In autonomous systems, this is the best option, since it does not require the purchase of additional equipment.

It is advisable to install not a ball valve on the feed, but a valve that can be used to regulate the flow. Before filling the heating system with water, you need to empty it of old coolant. The water changes because it becomes too dirty. Then you need to open all the Mayevsky taps on the radiators and open the make-up.

As the radiators fill, liquid will begin to flow from the air vents at the ends. As soon as water appears, the tap is immediately turned off. You need to monitor the readings of the pressure gauge - a device that shows the pressure in the heating circuit.

In autonomous systems it should not be more than 2.5 atmospheres. This value is achieved when the temperature of the coolant increases, and when the water is cold, the pressure gauge should show no more than 1.5 atmospheres.

After filling the heating system with water, you need to turn on the boiler. When the coolant heats up, you need to bleed air from all batteries again. In hot water, air separation occurs more intensely than in cold water. It may be necessary to remove air pockets several times (the first 2-3 heating cycles of the coolant).

Reasons for increased pressure in case of boiler damage

It is difficult for a person who does not have experience in servicing heating systems to independently determine the true reason why the pressure in the heating boiler rises. However, to give you an idea of possible malfunctions, a list of probable causes is provided.

Increasing pressure up to 1 atm. may occur as a result of depressurization of the heat exchanger. Such consequences result from the formation of cracks in the housing during prolonged operation. The appearance of cracks may be the result of a manufacturing defect or poor strength of the material, the consequences of a water hammer or equipment wear. In this case, the coolant volume systematically begins to replenish. However, it is not possible to visually determine the location of the leak due to the instantaneous evaporation of the liquid when the burner is running. This malfunction leads to replacement of the heat exchanger.
An increase in pressure can occur when the make-up valve is open. The weak pressure inside the boiler contrasts with the increased pressure in the pipeline. This causes additional water to flow through the open valve. Thus, the water pressure will gradually increase until it is released. If the pressure in the pipeline decreases, the water supply to the boiler is shut off by the coolant, reducing the pressure in the circuit. The make-up valve must be kept closed, and if it is broken, replaced.
An increase in pressure may occur due to a malfunction of the three-way valve. Such a breakdown leads to water entering the circuit from the expansion tank. Debris periodically collects on the valve, which can cause it to break. This element must be cleaned periodically and, if faulty, replaced. To prevent contaminants from entering the water supply, you can install a simple corner filter.
If all signs indicate that the pressure in the circuit is increasing, and the pressure gauge needle does not respond, this means that it has failed. A broken device makes it impossible to control the operation of the system and needs to be replaced.

Excessive pressure in the heating circuit is determined by the readings of the pressure gauge; if the indicator exceeds the permissible level, measures must be taken immediately. In addition to the pressure gauge, an excess of the permissible norm can be indicated by a safety valve, from which water will begin to flow if the pressure has risen.

Filling closed heating with a pump

If the circuit is not connected to the water supply, the only option left to fill the heating system is a pressure test pump. This is a small rectangular metal reservoir into which liquid is collected. From the reservoir, the coolant is supplied to the pipes thanks to a pump-action hand pump on which a pressure gauge is installed.

Hand pump for pressure testing.

There is nothing complicated about how to fill a closed heating system. Work algorithm:

connect the hose from the pump to the circuit;
pour coolant into the pump reservoir;
manually pump fluid into the system.

If there is no pipe for draining water from the circuit, then you can connect the pump hose to one of the ends of the battery. To do this, you need to unscrew the plug and put the adapter in its place. Before starting work, be sure to open all air vents so that air can leave the circuit.

There is no point in gluing roll insulation under the wallpaper. A thin layer of thermal insulation will not give the desired result.

When working with thermal insulation in sheets and rolls, you need to use an insulation dowel or nail to fix the material.

Watch the pressure gauge reading carefully. Using such a pump, pressure testing of the heating system is carried out. They can pump up pressure to 10 atmospheres (if you have enough strength). When filling the system, such pressure is not necessary, otherwise the boiler will break.

Finally, about the safe addition of coolant

When filling water or partial replenishment, follow our recommendations:

Replenish the heated system slowly by opening the valve a quarter of the lever stroke. In this way, it will be possible to avoid the formation of air locks and protect the boiler heat exchanger from temperature shock.
Refill from scratch with the heat generator not working and the circulation pump turned off.
Check the pressure in the expansion tank and go through all the radiators, opening the Mayevsky valves to release air.
If your boiler is equipped with modern electronics, be sure to study the instructions regarding make-up. Often it is necessary to activate a special service mode in the unit.
Excess pressure is easily released through the nearest air vent.

The complex system make-up module can be connected to a hydraulic separator and a comb

Reference. Cast iron heat exchangers easily crack from sudden temperature changes, and steel fireboxes become covered from the inside with condensation. The latter mixes with soot and forms a dense coating.

Injecting antifreeze with a hand pump does not have any pitfalls. Pressure testing units are equipped with their own pressure gauge, which allows you to monitor the current pressure at the insertion point.

How to use a heating system with a gas boiler

To ensure high-quality operation of the heating system using a gas boiler, it is necessary to understand the principles of its operation and follow the rules for installing and operating the boiler.
The information below will help you do everything correctly, following the manufacturers' recommendations and rules for using such equipment. Starting the heating system

Installation and commissioning of the boiler must be carried out by specialists. This process consists of several stages: installation, filling the system and setting up its operation. How to fill a heating system with water:

Before you start filling, you must open the automatic pump aerator;
then the fill valve opens and remains open until the pressure gauge shows a system pressure of 1.5 bar. After this, the valve closes;
then the air vent valves on the batteries are opened to release the accumulated air. In this case, the pressure in the system drops, and the filling valve is reopened, bringing the pressure in the system to 1.5 bar;
If necessary, the operation is repeated until air in large quantities stops accumulating in the system.

You need to know that air enters the system with water in any case, this is normal. Small amounts of air are removed from the heating system using a deaerator installed on the pump. This leads to a gradual decrease in pressure. If during operation of the boiler the pressure gauge shows a pressure below 0.5 bar, you will need to add water to the system again.

How to add water to the heating system

If the water pressure has dropped to a critical level (0.5 bar or below), it must be increased by adding water. On boilers with an LCD screen, this situation can be indicated by a code that stands for “low pressure”. We carry out recharge observing the following rules:

turn off the heating boiler and de-energize it by unplugging the plug from the socket;
carefully inspect the entire heating system and the boiler itself to make sure that there are no coolant leaks (they can also cause a decrease in pressure);
using the filling tap, we bring the pressure in the system to 1.5 bar in the same way as when initially filling with water;
After closing the valve, the boiler can be turned on.

The make-up valve must be closed in any case. Otherwise, the pressure in the system may rise to critically high levels. Typically this value is 3 bars. In this case, the automation will work and excess water will be discharged using a safety valve.

How to drain water from a heating system

In some cases, for example, when leaks are detected or other situations requiring repairs, it is necessary to drain the coolant from the system. This is easy to do by following these instructions:

be sure to turn off the boiler and remove the plug from the socket;
open the valves on the radiator and boiler;
open the drain tap. It is located at the lowest point of the heating system;
drain the water until the pressure gauge reads zero.

In double-circuit boilers, it will also be necessary to drain the water from the hot water supply circuit. To do this, after the boiler is completely turned off, open the cold water supply valve and one of the hot taps to ensure complete drainage from the DHW system.

Actions in case of pressure loss

Low water pressure in a gas boiler or its drop to a minimum means that there are serious complications in the boiler and in the network. If the pressure gauge shows a reading below 1 atm, you need to add water manually. To do this, the make-up valve opens. If after this the gas boiler does not hold pressure, then you should call a specialist.

Another way to increase the water pressure in a gas boiler is to inspect all networks for water leaks. It happens that during initial startups and increased pressure, the butt sections of pipes crack. This is where leaks occur. As a result, the pressure gradually drops. Leaks must be repaired promptly.

You also need to pay attention to the expansion tank: diagnose and check it. This work is carried out by a specialist.

How to drain water from pipes for the winter

With the advent of the first cold weather, many owners of private houses and summer cottages have a need to drain water from the pipes of their plumbing and heating systems. Many people think about how to drain water from pipes with their own hands, they think that it is very difficult, and the help of specialists is needed. In fact, you can do this on your own.

Adviсe

When preparing water pipes for conservation, it is worth remembering that all work must be carried out at an outside air temperature of at least 5 ⁰C.

In order to properly drain water from water pipes, their design must include the following details:

A tee and a drain valve must be installed on the pipe valve supplying water from a well or well caisson.
Water pipes must be made of low-density polyethylene or polypropylene. This will prevent them from being damaged during emergency defrosting.
A water drain valve must be installed at the lowest point of the pipeline branch.
If drain taps are not installed, a tee must be installed. A car compressor is connected to it. It is used to blow through pipes.
If a water heater is connected, it is necessary to install a tee and a tap to drain the water. They must have a hose attachment to the check valve on the incoming water heating pipe. Also, a tee with a tap should be installed on the outlet pipe from the water heater to quickly supply air when draining the water.

Note! It is recommended to use classic ceramic faucets and taps with a rubber seal. They will not be damaged if residual water in the pipeline freezes.

Stages of draining water from a pipeline

To drain water from the heating system, you must perform the following steps:

Turning off the heating boiler or closing the distribution valve on the pipe extending from the riser.
Shutting off the valve that collects water into the heating system.
A hose must be attached to the radiator system drain valve. Here you should correctly calculate its length. It must be sufficient to drain water into the street or into a sewer well.
The drain valve on the heating radiator must be opened.
On the heating system, it is necessary to open the valves with air valves. This will ensure a faster drainage rate.
Leaks may occur during the draining procedure. To avoid unpleasant incidents, it is necessary to place a deep container in advance and place it under the junction of the tap and the drain hose.
After completing the draining procedure, you must disconnect the hose and drain the remaining water into a container.

We drain water from the central and autonomous water supply

In modern summer cottages, many people install a pipeline system. The pipeline can be connected:

to the central water supply,
to an autonomous water supply system.

Installation features

The direction of the water must coincide with the direction of the arrow on the body of the device.
The valve is placed on the pipe so that the direction of the liquid coincides with the direction of the arrow. The filter plug is directed downward, and the adjustment screw must be accessible for use. The pressure gauge dial rotates to make it easy to read the values.

The winding material is used rationally so that excess does not fall into the lumen of the gearbox. Boiler feed in the form of a valve should not depend on main loads (compression, torsion, bending, vibration). For this purpose, additional supports or compensators are installed.

The mismatch between the axes of the pipelines should not be more than 3 mm for a length of 1 m. For longer lengths, 1 mm is added for each linear meter. The make-up circuit is connected to the pipeline near the expansion tank.

How to drain water from a heating system

When is it necessary to drain water from the heating system? Most often, the need for it arises when it is necessary to clean or replace a heating radiator, for example. If we are talking about a city apartment that is connected to a central heating system, then such an operation can be carried out independently on the internal section of the network. In the event that it is necessary to drain the heating system of a private house equipped with a boiler, it will have to be temporarily emptied.

The essence of the

The first step is to shut off the branch of the heating riser that goes to the apartment. It is enough just to close the distribution valve located here. For a private house with an autonomous heating system, this process is slightly different:

firstly, you need to stop the supply of fuel or electrical energy;
secondly, you should carefully read the user instructions for this case.

Only after this can the boiler be turned off. Then you should close the valve through which water is drawn into the system.

To speed up the process a little, you will need to know those places in the system where taps with air-type valves may be located. They all need to be opened. In this case, nothing will interfere with the flow of water to the hose.

During this operation, small leaks of water from the system onto the floor are possible. Therefore, at the very beginning, it is better to place a large bowl or basin under the place where the hose is connected to the tap (drain). As all the water leaves the system, it is necessary to disconnect the hose and drain the remaining water from it into a substitute container.

Only after completing all the described procedures can you move on to the main thing - to the work for which the water was drained from the heating system of a residential apartment or private housing construction.

If the owner of an apartment or house does not quite understand how to drain the water from the heating without harmful consequences, then it is better to contact a qualified contractor. For example, to a plumber from a company that services a specific home.

Solving the main problems

Owners of heating equipment equipped with an expansion tank are often faced with the problem of pressure drop in this reservoir, which is fundamental for the smooth operation of the boiler. On various forums you can come across a huge number of questions like “What to do if the pressure in the NAVIEN boiler drops?” We will try to look at common problems using BAXI units as an example, since owners of this equipment quite often ask similar questions. With all this, the information below will definitely be useful to owners of units of other brands.

How to drain water from heating systems?

Home Article How to drain water from heating systems?

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Quite often this need arises when there is a need to clean or replace a heating radiator. For city apartments that are connected to a central heating system, this operation can be performed independently on the internal section of the heating network. If, however, there is a need to drain water from the entire system responsible for heating in houses in which a fuel boiler is installed, you will need to temporarily empty it of its contents.

Technology for draining water from the heating system

To begin with, the branches of the heating system riser going into the apartment are shut off. To do this, you just need to close the distribution valve located here. In private houses where an autonomous heating system is used, this process is slightly different. First, the supply of fuel or electricity to the heating boiler is stopped. Then you need to carefully study the user instructions, which describe this case in detail.

Only after this can the boiler be turned off. Next, the valve through which water is drawn into the system is closed.

To speed up this process, it is necessary to know those places in the heating system where the taps and air valves are installed. They all must be open so that there is no interference with the flow of water to the hose.

When carrying out this procedure, small local leaks of water onto the floor may occur in the system. That is why, before you start draining the water, you need to place a sufficiently deep container under the place where the hose and drain valve are connected. As water leaves the heating system, the hose is disconnected and the remaining water is drained from it into a previously placed container.

Only after completing all the described procedures can you begin the most important work, for which the water would be drained from the heating system of a house or apartment.

If the owner of a residential apartment or building does not quite know how to drain water from the heating system without negative consequences, then it is best to seek help from qualified performers in the form of a plumber from the company responsible for servicing a particular home.

Current advice on configuration and maintenance

Whatever power supply you choose, remember, first of all, it should be safe and easy to use, made of high-quality materials. If the heating system is small, give preference to a device with the simplest possible design. The central support with moving parts and the internal compensation piston must be made of materials with a low adhesion coefficient: the risk of lime formation in the unit must be minimized. It is no secret that they are the main reason for the poor performance of the device.

Please note whether the product has a replaceable cartridge: this will greatly facilitate and speed up the process of inspecting the unit for you.

Periodic maintenance of the make-up device will help avoid malfunctions in the entire heating system.

To clean or replace the entire cartridge, proceed as follows:

Insulate the installation.
Unscrew the control knob located at the bottom.
Unscrew the adjustment screw until it stops and remove the cover.
Remove the cartridge with pliers.
After the necessary manipulations, reassemble the device.

All that remains is to set up the equipment again and continue to enjoy the uninterrupted operation of the heating system in your home!

Filling the system from below

So, let's get back to pumping fluid into the system. We use a container of suitable volume (a 200-liter plastic barrel works well). We lower a pump into it, creating the pressure required for pumping liquid no higher than 1.5 atm (typical value in the range of 1-1.2 atm). Such pressure requires the pump to create a pressure of 15 m (for the submersible “Malysh” it reaches 40 m).

Having filled the barrel with water, we start the pump, monitoring the liquid level, which should be located above its inlet pipe to prevent “airing”. The level drops - add water. Antifreeze should be pumped from a smaller container (bucket) so as not to immerse the submersible pump housing in the liquid (and then wash it) - just immerse the inlet pipe. You will have to add antifreeze frequently, turning off the pump periodically.

Filling the system is carried out with Mayevsky taps open on installed heating radiators with substitute containers for collecting water. When liquid comes out of all air vents, close the taps and continue the injection process.

We control the pressure using a pressure gauge (a boiler gauge will do). When its value exceeds the hydrostatic pressure, equal to the pressure in the liquid column height from the bottom to the top point of the system (a height of 5 m gives a static pressure of 0.5 atm), we continue to fill the system, monitoring with a pressure gauge the moment the pressure reaches the required value.

Pumping antifreeze with the “Malysh” pump.

Having filled the system, turn off the pump, open the air valves (the pressure will inevitably drop), and then pump up the water. We repeat the process several times, displacing air bubbles.

We complete the filling by inspecting the system for leaks. After the pump is turned off, the liquid in the hose connected to the outlet pipe is under pressure. If antifreeze was pumped in, first disconnect the hose from the pump inlet pipe and drain the liquid into a container, being careful not to drench the mechanism body.

Expansion tank malfunction

Sometimes the problem of pressure drop is associated specifically with the expansion tank. It can be built into the boiler body, or it can be located outside it (then water is poured manually through the tank). If there are signs of malfunction of this element, bleeding with pressure measurements will be required.

Answers from Ariston Clas boiler repair specialists

Question: We installed a wall-mounted gas boiler Ariston clas evo 24 ff. Made a small change to the heating system. Before calling technical service for the first start, I wanted to fill the heating system with water and check it for density. but ran into a problem with filling the system with water. How to do it? Where is the fill valve located? Should the boiler be connected to the electrical network? And why do you need a make-up solenoid valve?

Answer: The solenoid valve for recharging is precisely what is needed for recharging. Only for this you need to turn on the boiler to the network, but I would not recommend doing this before the service arrives. Believe me, there are different situations during startup. And then, this valve does not power the system, but recharges it. To fill the system, they either make a connection from cold water to the return line (with a tap), which I personally do not favor, or they fill it manually through a valve.

Look at the valve from below and you will see a screw for a screwdriver. So, if you turn it (points to the letter A), then water will begin to flow into the system through the boiler (letter C - closed). A magnetic key is attached under the boiler next to the automatic make-up. You put it on the pin sticking out from under the boiler and feed it with CO.

Question: An Ariston class 24 ff gas boiler is connected, the heating season has ended, the heating has been turned off and now when the hot water is turned on, the boiler operates at the set temperature for about 10-30 seconds, after which it goes out and the message H46 appears on the screen (46 water temperature, looked H- there is a delay in turning off the pump in DHW mode, why didn’t I hear the pump working with UDC? I can hear it during heating), the water from the tap begins to get colder, then the boiler lights up and so on in a circle, it lights up, goes out, lights up.

When the boiler turns off, a gurgling sound is heard inside, as if water is boiling, periodically dripping from the chimney, apparently condensation from steam from the boiler, if at this moment you turn on the heating, the gurgling immediately stops, when operating in DHW mode, the heating pipe does not get warm when the boiler turns off, then if you turn on the heating, it shows the temperature in the heating circuit at about 80 degrees and drops quickly.

Help, otherwise I have no one else to turn to, we don’t have normal service in our city, and at home I think they’ll soon put this boiler on my head. And another question: the automatic air removal valve in the boiler near the pump must be closed after filling the heating system or it remains in the raised position, otherwise I think that steam goes into the chimney through it.

Answer: Carefully unscrew the large nut at the end of the pump and check whether the pump spins or not. Just take care of the board so as not to fill it with water. Cover with something. This valve must always be raised. I would start by cleaning the hot water flow sensor. It looks like the turbine in the DHW flow sensor is not rotating. If this does not help, then the secondary heat exchanger is clogged. If the heat exchanger is clogged, it needs to be cleaned. Remove the heat exchanger and check the condition of the CO channels. And before that, indirectly determine the operation of the boiler in DHW mode.

Open the boiler, turn it on in DHW mode and determine the flow and return temperatures of the primary heat exchanger. There is no need to dismantle the boiler. Secondary heat exchanger - installed at the bottom, stainless steel plate. Contamination may be from the primary circuit.

This happens especially often when using a boiler with a steel heating system that was not properly flushed or when using aluminum radiators. It is advisable to always use a filter on the return line of the heating system. Remove the heat exchanger and wash with appropriate products.

Question: An Ariston clas 24 cf wall-mounted boiler is installed. It worked great all winter, it’s been a week since it was turned off. Yesterday I wanted to turn it on because the weather had gotten colder, but it surprised me by giving me error 302. I press Reset and the button doesn’t respond, I press ON/OFF, I thought about turning it off and turning it on through the button and it doesn’t respond either, well, that’s the general feeling that the buttons are blocked! what to do ?

Answer: 302 is not an error, but an indication that the boiler is in parameter setting mode. I would try to check the indication board on another similar boiler. If it is working properly, you will have to reflash the control board memory.

READ Control board for vaillant gas boiler

Question: I discovered immediately when turning on the Ariston Class boiler: error 201 - Sensor on the supply to the DHW circuit (NTCs) - no contact. But there is no sensor at all; in its place is a factory plug. I discovered when I was cleaning the DHW flow meter turbine that there was no flow regulator. And everything works.

Answer: Error 201 is displayed because the board is of an old model, where there was still an NTC sensor on the hot water supply. The impeller of the flow sensor becomes clogged due to the absence of a fine filter at the water inlet (or its complete clogging).

Question: The boiler displays error 501 - No flame. I checked the boiler control board, like the relays that control the igniter are intact, the optocoupler is also intact. Perhaps someone has encountered such an error and how to fix it?

Answer: The main reasons for this error are, as a rule, potential on the gas pipe (relative to the boiler body), dirty flame control electrode, low gas pressure to the burner. You need to check this first and then delve into the electronics.

Question: I started the Ariston Class 24 wall-mounted boiler. It has been running for three weeks and everything seems to be fine, but there are a couple of points that I doubt.

When CO is cold, the pressure on the pressure gauge is 1 bar. When the boiler is turned on at maximum power and the set temperature is reached at 80 degrees, the pressure shows 2 bar. Is this normal?

When the boiler is connected to the network, Err / 201 flashes several times on the indicator. I did not find one in the description of error codes in the manual. It is clear that the error is related to the hot water supply, but maybe someone knows what exactly? And it also feels like min. When setting the DHW temperature, the water from the tap is much hotter than 36 degrees.

Answer: It is necessary to adjust the gas valve correctly - then the hot water supply will work as it should.

Question: To prevent pressure from the large taps, I additionally installed ball valves in front of the mixer - they are almost closed. I did not check the temperature with a large flow. And if new models do not have a temperature sensor, then it is not clear how the board controls the temperature in the DHW? And why then does error 201 appear when the boiler is connected to the network?

Answer: The latest versions of Ariston clas evo system 28 ff boilers really do not have DHW temperature sensors. The DHW temperature is determined by the DT supply to the CO through a temperature shift. Error 201 appears when the readings of the supply DT and return DT are equal, that is, at the moment of switching on, and disappears somewhere after 5-10 seconds. Fewer sensors mean fewer problems. (The firmware versions seem to be the same, the routing and detailing of the boards also seem to be the same or I didn’t look well.)

Question: In the summer we installed an Ariston class 24 ff boiler checked everything worked fine. I recently installed another battery / I think this is not a fundamental point. The boiler stood for some time without pressure for about a couple of months. without water. Today I wanted to check the connected battery for leaks:

filled the system with about 2 bar of water 2. pressed self-bleeding from circuit 3, the boiler switched to the desired mode, but there was no pump noise 4. the boiler left the mode and began heating the water in the circuit, the pressure began to rise, after which the lock was activated and ejected error code 104 (circulation failure). 5. after restarting the situation repeated itself. 6. got to the pump. there is a valve there (for some reason it turned out to be suspiciously hot). 7. I filled and flushed the water several times, and what looked like rust came out. the circuit is made of plastic (soldered), the radiators are steel, after washing nothing happened. the situation repeats itself 8. I stopped torturing myself and the boiler so as not to “make things weird.”

I suspect it's sticking. It feels like it's trying to start a pump. but can't pull it off.

Answer: At the end of the pump, unscrew the plug and carefully use a screwdriver to remove the stuck shaft (there is a slot at the end). We tighten the plug. Let's start the boiler.

Question: We installed an Ariston Clas 24 FF wall-mounted boiler. No one had used it before. When starting both in CO mode and in DHW mode, the burner ignites, the temperature begins to rise on the display, and then turns off (all this within a few seconds), error code 104 - insufficient circulation. There is no sticking in the pump, I turned the shaft, the flow meter rotates perfectly, there is 1.5 atm in the CO circuit.

Could there be an air lock in the CO circuit? I bleed air from the radiators, but I couldn’t figure out the air vent. The air vent, as I understand it, is opened by lifting the red cap on the pump, but there is no effect. And the automatic air removal function somehow works incomprehensibly: I hold ESC for 5 seconds, P1- appears on the display, as described in the instructions, but after that nothing happens. After a couple of minutes, the boiler goes into standby mode again. An attempt to ignite again leads to error 104. Maybe the pump does not turn on at all? How can I check this?

Answer: Unscrew the plug at the end of the pump carefully during operation, but water will ooze out and you will see whether the rotor rotates. Check the filter for CO. If everything is fine with the pump and CO, the water pressure sensor may be lying.

Before starting, you need the pressure sensor to show 1.0 - 1.15 bar.

Looking at the diagram of a heating gas boiler, it is not difficult to guess which valve is responsible for the pressure in the heating system. Of course, the fact that your pressure gauge shows 0.5 bar is a very low pressure for normal operation of the boiler. The fact that the instructions say 1.0-1.15 bar is the minimum. Considering that I seem to have the same boiler, I want to show you a close-up of the control panel, namely the pressure gauge scale.

Please note that the red stripe is right up to number 3. And don’t look at the fact that my blood pressure is low. I haven't turned on the heating yet. What I want to say. The minimum pressure should be 1.15 bar and the maximum 3.0 bar. Therefore, I am always for the golden mean. Try to keep the pressure around two. As soon as there is less than a two, open the tap number 16 in the diagram ( feed tap ). In my boiler, this tap is made of blue plastic (if you look under the boiler, you can see it). Especially for you, I put my phone “under the skirt” of the boiler and took a picture of what the feed tap looks like.

Ariston gas boilers are quite popular among consumers. They attract buyers with their famous name, stylish design, versatility and affordable price. However, breakdowns may also occur in these units. The self-diagnosis system identifies them and shows them as an error code on the display. Let's consider what malfunctions of Ariston gas boilers the system can detect.

Signs of a critical coolant shortage

Not all owners of private houses monitor the technical condition of their water heating; it works - and that’s okay. When a hidden leak occurs, the system continues to function for some time until the amount of coolant drops to a critical level. This moment is monitored by the following criteria:

In an open system, the expansion tank is first emptied, then the main riser rising from the boiler is filled with air. Result: cold batteries when the supply pipeline overheats; turning on the maximum speed of the circulation pump does not help.
The lack of water during gravity distribution manifests itself in a similar way; in addition, the gurgling of water in the riser can be heard.
On a gas heater (open circuit), frequent starts/turns of the burner are observed - clocking, the TT boiler overheats and boils.
The lack of coolant in a closed (pressure) circuit is reflected on the pressure gauge - the pressure gradually decreases. Wall-mounted models of gas boilers automatically stop when they fall below a threshold of 0.8 Bar.
Floor-standing, non-volatile units and solid fuel boilers continue to regularly heat the remaining water in a closed system until the volume vacated by the coolant is filled with air. The circulation will stop, overheating will occur, and the safety valve will operate.

Important clarification. When a TT boiler operating in an open gravity system boils, there will be no explosion, since the coolant communicates with the atmosphere. The water heated by the heater will evaporate, and then a fire will start in the boiler room. Although the described process takes a lot of time, such situations are far from uncommon.

We will not explain why the system needs to be recharged - this is an obvious measure to maintain the functionality of the heating. All that remains is to choose a method for replenishing the heating network.

What to do?

The problem can be solved by adding fluid to the system, but first the leak itself must be eliminated.

To do this, follow these tips:

Leak in the radiator section - turn off the heating, drain as much water as possible, and then disconnect the battery. Mark the location of the leak, dry it, clean it and seal it using cold welding. If the hole is too large, then you can simply remove this section by separating them from each other.
Leaking in a panel radiator - you can try to seal the leak by cold welding, but in most cases you will have to replace the panel with a new one.
Leaks at the joints - the soldered structures are cut off, and a blank suitable in size is made from a new piece of pipe. Soldering is performed using a special soldering iron.
Leaking faucets - replacing the element with a new one.

Expert opinion

Grebnev Vadim Savelievich

Heating system installer

If there is a leak in the boiler itself, where the water is heated, then you must call specialists so that they can diagnose and carry out repairs. Without skill, experience and appropriate permission, making adjustments to the operation of gas equipment is extremely dangerous.