Bee hive: photo, video, hive structure, how to make a hive with your own hands

Often, amateur beekeepers who keep 2-3 families of bees are faced with the problem of “overpopulation”. After all, bees begin to swarm, which means the question of purchasing new hives arises. But what to do in this case? Not everyone can afford to buy new ones, but used ones are also dangerous. After all, it is unknown why they are sold and what diseases can be acquired along with the “home”. That’s when the thought arises – why not do it? DIY bee hive? Today we will try to figure out how difficult it is and what is required for this. Surely this information will be useful for those who are just thinking about beekeeping.
Beekeeping for beginners: what to buy for an apiary (read more) Here it is – the birth of delicious and sweet honey.

Beekeeping for beginners: where to start for an inexperienced beekeeper

The main thing is, of course, to understand whether a person can do this difficult work. After all, not everyone can do it due to physical indicators or health conditions. The first and most important requirement is that you are not allergic to bee stings. After all, some people cannot tolerate even isolated cases. If a novice beekeeper has such a strong reaction, then the path to the apiary is forbidden to him.

On a note! You should know that bee venom, when entering the body, contributes to a sharp increase in blood pressure. That is why people with heart disease and hypertension are strictly prohibited from engaging in such activities.

Now about the physical condition. Those who plan to take up beekeeping should understand that it is hard, everyday work. You will need to move hives, work on a honey extractor and much more. And you shouldn’t think that this is a very profitable business that will start generating income from the very first season. After all, at first large costs will be required for the bees themselves, hives, and additional buildings. And if there are no honey fields nearby, it will be necessary to transport the hives from place to place, negotiating with the owners of the meadows about the housing of the apiary, resolving issues with its protection. This means that for the first 2-3 years there is nothing to even think about the slightest profit.

Sometimes hives can even be like this.

But if you have already specifically decided to tackle this difficult task, then one of the primary expenses can be minimized - building hives for bees with your own hands. True, this will require some knowledge and experience in carpentry. But with desire, attentiveness and accuracy, this task is quite doable.

Bee family: general information about bees and the composition of the bee family (read more)

Features of manufacturing hive parts

Despite the variety of designs, the main elements of hives must meet uniform requirements and ensure the fulfillment of certain tasks. Below are the features of manufacturing the main elements of bee hives:

Frame. This is the main part.
It looks like an ordinary four-walled box. As the family grows and its numbers increase, beekeepers stack the bodies one on top of the other. There are hives with 1, 2, 3 or more bodies. The optimal wall thickness for a hive is 3.5 cm. This option allows insects to safely overwinter. The body parts are fastened together with nails or PVA glue. A 1 x 4 cm slot is always made in front. There are recesses on the sides, at a distance of 7 mm from the top of the case - these will be carrying handles. Holes are drilled at the bottom of the housing with a drill to ensure the flow of fresh air. The outer part of the body is coated with a water-repellent composition and painted in a suitable color - white, yellow, blue.
Roof. It is usually made from boards 2 cm thick. The design is inlaid - in the form of a shield. For greater reliability, the roof is sheathed with metal sheets. Even tin is enough - the main thing is to protect the wood from excessive exposure to moisture and prevent rotting. Beekeepers often place mesh on the top of their hives for additional air exchange during transportation. The mesh also protects the swarm from external adverse factors.
Bottom. In regions with harsh winters, it is made from two layers of boards at once. And be sure to arrange an insulating backfill. In the south of the country, insulation is not required; the bottom is made single. It is assembled from bars in the shape of the letter “P”. Grooves are made in the side bars and parts of the structure are inserted.

Bee hives are presented in a wide design range, allowing each beekeeper to choose the best option, taking into account the tasks and scale of honey production. With the desire and certain skills, every beekeeping enthusiast can not only make hives on his own, but also modernize them at his own discretion.

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Construction of a hive for bees: general information about what types they are

To understand how a hive works, you need to study all the information about them and figure out why this or that compartment is needed. Many beekeepers, sometimes even hereditary ones, do not even know what they are called. But this does not stop them from doing what they love. However, beginners will have to figure it out. After all, to build one, you need to be able to read drawings of bee hives, and sometimes draw them yourself. Now let’s look at some of the types and try to understand which one is easier to build to begin with. Those who subsequently engage in this business on a larger scale will eventually understand all types of bee houses. For now, let's start with the most common ones.

Note! There are various drawings of beehives for bees on the Internet, so it is not difficult to find a suitable option. But it must be emphasized that professionals and experienced beekeepers and experts prefer collapsible structures. Such structures are more convenient to use.

Basic hive structure

First, let's figure out how, in general terms, any hive should be structured and what it consists of.

The design includes:

Nest building. In most designs it is located at the bottom. Inside the body, the queen bee lays eggs, and in the summer the honeycombs are filled with beebread and honey.
Magazine extension (magazine). Section located above the body. Bees bring honey into it during bribes.
Dividing grid between the body and the magazine. Prevents the queen from moving from one part of the hive to another.
Ceiling panel (underroof). Covers the magazine or nesting body from above. Serves to protect this compartment from rain and creates a closed air space above the body and magazine.
Frames for the body and magazine. Used as a basis for creating honeycombs.
Separators. Provide distance between frames.
Insert board (diaphragm). Divides the hive into 2 parts, usually if there are 2 bee families living in it.
Stretcher. “Bedding” on the bottom of the hive, installed for wintering.

Dadan-Blatt hive: its description, structure and some features of use in beekeeping

Initially, this hive bore the name of only one of its inventors - Charles Dadant. But its design, although quite successful, still required improvement. This is exactly what the Swiss beekeeper Blatt made, who added some innovations. But to this day, among beekeepers (perhaps for simplicity), the name “ Dadan hive ” is applied to this bee house.

This design is practically not used in industrial honey collection, but among amateurs it is practically the most popular. The dimensions of the Dadan hive with 12 frames, the drawing of which is shown in the image below, are 585x585x815 mm.

Note! It doesn't matter what the hive is. It is important to make as many stores as possible. After all, this is the most important thing for honey workers. But fanaticism in this matter is also useless.

In fact, such a house for bees is quite simple. In other words, building a Dadanovsky hive with your own hands, if you have the drawings before your eyes, will not pose any special problems.

What is a Langstroth-Ruth hive and how is it structured?

This design is also quite popular. And not only among amateurs, but also among industrial assemblers. It dates back to the beginning of the 19th century. At that time, beekeeper Lorenzo Langstroth invented its first version. However, it was somewhat inconvenient due to the fact that the bottom of the hive turned out to be non-removable. This made cleaning and maintenance much more difficult. However, already at the end of the same century, the industrial beekeeper Amos Root changed a little, and one might even say simplified the design. And even today, his descendants own a company for the production of various devices for apiaries, making similar hives.

The main difference between this bee house and the previous one is the absence of stores. In addition, the frames themselves are somewhat lower, although their width is completely identical. Drawings of Ruth's hive can be easily found on the Internet, therefore, there is no point in posting them all here. Of course, for the sake of a general concept, we will present some of them to the dear reader below.

The drawings of Langstroth's hives themselves differ slightly from Ruth's structure. But among beekeepers the name of this design stuck with only one surname. By analogy with Dadanovsky, they were simply called Rutovsky.

The Horned Hive of Mikhail Palivoda: the most budget option

Although many of those who have been involved in beekeeping for a long time and professionally speak about such a design with disdain, for a novice beekeeper it can truly be a godsend. In addition to the fact that it is much easier to make than the two previous options, it can also be done from almost any scrap boards.

Note! When we say “from any”, we do not mean oiled or rotten wood. A bee will not live where there is an extraneous smell, even the slightest one. It is for this reason that experienced beekeepers assemble hives using nails or screws and never use adhesives. And painting is used only on the outside of the bee house.

As for the ease of production, looking at the photos of the drawings of the horned hive we presented, even a schoolboy can probably make it with his own hands.

It is also good news that almost all breeds of bees can live in such a house. But Buckfast and Carpathian people especially like this structure. The famous Burzyan bee also feels quite good in it, but for some reason the beekeepers of Bashkiria have chosen other types of structures for themselves. Perhaps due to the fact that such hives are made quite small.

Beekeepers' tips for choosing hives

Beginners are advised to choose hives that are simple in design, lightweight and affordable. When planning to make a purchase, pay attention to the following points:

Focus on the cost of effort and time for servicing and transporting hives.
Duration of honey collection in the apiary area. If there is little honey, it does not make sense to buy multi-hull hives for stationary use. To transport hives to areas with rich honey production, lightweight multi-hull or cassette structures are needed.
Breed of bees. It is she who mainly influences the development of the bee family.

It is recommended to buy hives equipped with the same parts and components. This will reduce the cost of maintaining the apiary.

Alpine hive or design according to the Roger Delon method

This is a rather convenient design due to the fact that as the number of bees in the family increases, there is no need to build a new hive. You just need to add inserts, raising it in height.

Roger Delon is a fairly famous French scientific beekeeper who keeps apiaries in the Alps. Moreover, thanks to the design of the hives, he does not have time to collect honey in the summer, and therefore does it already in the winter.

The design of the bee house itself is radically different from all those mentioned earlier, not only in structure, but also in size. It is for this reason that maintaining such hives is not very convenient. It is quite difficult to choose a suitable honey extractor for non-standard frames. But in terms of productivity, Alpine hives are ahead of any other, even in a non-melting year.

What types of honey are there: composition and classification (read more)

Cassette hive - a bee is offered to live in such a box.

It is also difficult to switch from ordinary bee houses to alpine ones - “it’s difficult for new residents to get used to a different structure. For this reason, if a novice beekeeper, having considered all the options, decided on the Alpine one, then you should not start with something simple with the idea that over time it will be possible to change the design. In this case, it is better to immediately build a hive according to the design of Roger Delon.

How are hives constructed?

The bee hive is a unique structure. Everything in it is created for comfortable living of the swarm. Beehives are primarily made of wood. Anyone who knows how to work with a plane and a hammer is able to build them on his own. But for this you need to thoroughly understand the design of the bee house.

The first step is to find quality material. The longevity of the hives will depend on it.

In production, boards made of high-density trees (oak, birch, etc.) are not used, since the structure should not be too heavy. The hives will have to be moved around the apiary or taken to the place where honey plants bloom.

General requirements for hives:

simplicity and ease of use;
reliable protection from temperature changes, rain, and other weather factors;
good ventilation providing a favorable microclimate;
the presence of insulation (protects from heat in summer, and from cold in winter);
the possibility of increasing or decreasing the structure during operation;
hive parameters corresponding to the size of the swarm, size and number of frames;
bright, recognizable to bees, coloring of the “house”.

The basis of the hive is a body in the form of a parallelepiped. There is a nesting area inside it. The walls are single or double with insulation.

There are entrances on the front wall - through them the bees enter their home. Usually, two holes are made in the front - at the bottom (a long slit), and above it there is a round hole (it often plays the role of ventilation). The tapholes have valves.

Removable elements are attached to the main module of the hive:

Bottom. Dead bees and waste fall here. The beekeeper removes them periodically. There is a stand at the bottom. It raises the hive above the surface of the earth. Sometimes the bottom is connected to the body, but then cleaning becomes more difficult.
Framework. These are rectangular-shaped parts intended for the placement of foundations. The bases are hung in the housing so that the bees fill them with honey and beebread.
Arrival boards. They are fixed under the entrance slots.
Roof. Covers the hive from the sun and precipitation, protects from pests. Often under a waterproof roof there is an under-roof - this is a rectangular insert that improves the ventilation of the hive.
Diaphragm. This is a thin board placed inside the housing. She shares frames with brood in the hive.
Shop. Part of the body for storing commercial honey. Compared to the nest module, it has less weight, height and wall thickness. During active honey collection, several additional extensions are installed in the hive.
Dividing grid. It prevents the queen from moving to the other half of the hive.

The dimensions of the structural elements are determined by the top of the hive and the materials used. It is important that all parts are tightly connected to each other, without gaps or cracks. If any are found, they are immediately sealed to prevent the bees from hypothermia.

Man created the first hives 4,000 years ago. In Palestine they were made from unfired clay and straw, in Europe they were hollowed out of wood to make logs. Designs similar to modern ones appeared in the 19th century. The first frame hive was created in 1814 by beekeeper Pyotr Prokopovich.

Cassette hive: why many do not recommend it

Such designs appeared relatively recently, but already now they have both supporters and opponents. Moreover, the latter are many times more numerous than the former. The essence of the design is to save space by narrowing the distance between the frames. This is where the main bone of contention lies.

Experienced beekeepers claim that this will lead to the appearance of layers of propolis between the frames. As a result, they will be inoperative. At the same time, there is no reason not to trust the opinion of experts.

Essentially, a cassette hive is a large dormitory.

It is also questionable what is recommended to be made from such material as fiberboard. Honestly, anyone who understands even a little about beekeeping will say that in such houses there can be no talk of any honey. Bees simply won't live there.

In order not to be unfounded, we will give one example of a review about a similar bee house:

Рchalyar:

In the early 90s, one of my relatives decided to become a beekeeper. I don’t remember where, maybe from Moscow, they sent him a brochure with drawings, descriptions and technology for keeping bees in a hive of an original design. The honey yield in this hive was promised to be simply unprecedented. Work was in full swing. I sawed boards, from somewhere I got posters “Give me…”, “Glory…”, “Long live…” from fiberboard and built about 8 of them. I also built a pavilion, although it was stationary, not on wheels. Why am I all this? It’s just that that hive and yours are the same. The height of the frame seems to be greater, or maybe not, I don’t remember exactly. I must say that he is a smart guy, everything was done well...

We are not presenting the review in full; if you are interested, you can read it in the source. For those who have no desire to visit the sites, we can say that in this review a person writes that now no one lives in those hives except mice. Well, sometimes stray bees appear, but not the ones that give honey, but those that periodically live on balconies and garages.

Hive lounger and how it differs from other bee houses

If you ask professional beekeepers this question, you will hear completely different answers. And the point is not that some are right and others are wrong. It's just that its design may be different.

The appearance of the lounger resembles a huge chest.

Looking at this hive, you can understand that it looks the same as the others, but at the same time it seems to be lying on its side. The lid also opens upward, but it is the top wall. Outwardly, it resembles a chest. This is why he was called a sunbed. The design of such a hive can be similar to any of the above. It can be either a Rutovsky or a Dadanovsky hive.

Let's also try to turn to the reviews of professionals - what do they think about the do-it-yourself beehive?

Danicek:

I can’t answer in the affirmative, because I have no experience driving bees, for example in multihulls, and therefore I can’t compare. Although, I remember that in his lectures Kashkovsky claims that in Siberia, it was with the help of beds that beekeepers achieved record honey yields both from one hive and from the apiary as a whole. In my opinion, the bed most of all allows us to create a strong honey cake (which is what we strive for), and to disturb the bees less with inspections (each inspection, whether the beekeeper wants it or not, introduces nervousness into the family, and for a couple of days the family is knocked out of its normal rhythm life)…

Hive boa constrictor: why it is so loved by amateur beekeepers

The secret to the popularity of such hives is their compactness and ease of installation and maintenance. Outwardly, it is somewhat reminiscent of the Alpine, but much smaller in size. Although those who have been involved in beekeeping for many years say that it will be difficult for a novice beekeeper to cope with such a hive. But, as you know, everything is learned by comparison, and for those who are close to such a design, nothing prevents them from starting with just such bee houses.

Making boa constrictor hives with your own hands according to the drawings is not difficult; we will present them to the dear reader for review below. If the information provided is not enough, you can always find additional information on the Internet.

Do-it-yourself hive: step-by-step instructions with photo examples

Let's look at the example of six steps on how to make a beehive with your own hands from boards:

Photo example	Actions Performed
	First of all, we align the pre-tenoned blanks to a width of 250 mm.
	Now you need to align them along the lengths of 439 mm and 434 mm.
	We cut out the folds - top, bottom and side.
	This is what the finished parts should look like. Now all that’s left to do is put everything together.
This is roughly what the result should be.

Of course, it is impossible to show everything in the instructions, but in fact this is not necessary. After all, any beekeeper learns all his life, trying something of his own, and therefore you will never find two beekeepers who make hives in exactly the same way. And yet, we suggest watching a video on how to make a beehive with your own hands using drawings and dimensions. We think that after this there will be no questions left.

How to make a beehive with your own hands: detailed instructions from “A” to “Z”

Before you begin to implement your plans, you need to carefully study the features of beekeeping, weather and natural conditions in the region, and other important factors. You should clarify how to make a hive with your own hands from different materials. An accurate assessment of financial capabilities, carpentry and other professional skills will be useful. It would be correct to apply a comprehensive analysis taking into account real initial parameters. It is necessary to take into account not only the main, but also associated costs and operating costs.

To properly make beehives with your own hands, dimensions, drawings, videos and other information materials in the articles are supplemented with professional comments and useful recommendations. This data will help minimize errors.

Checking different options and creating optimal hive drawings with your own hands

You can make notes on the drawings that describe the features of materials, assembly, and other important nuances

If the do-it-yourself drawings of bee hives found approximately correspond to the existing requirements, you need to add your own adjustments. Careful preparation of a complete set of design documentation will be useful:

Check the dimensions of all parts.
To correctly read the drawings, views from different sides and sections of complex components will be useful.
It is necessary to write down what materials are suitable for the manufacture of individual elements, and whether there are alternative options.
You should check the technologies for creating blanks and the assembly process step by step.
Next, make a list of necessary purchases.
This list is used for preliminary price checking. If necessary, make appropriate replacements.

For your information! If necessary, new professional skills are learned in advance. It will be useful to practice on samples so as not to spoil high-quality workpieces and consumables.

Construction in stages: algorithm of actions, useful tips

This table shows the process of making beehives with your own hands. For example, a relatively simple “Lounger” design was chosen.

Photo	Basic and auxiliary operations with comments
	To reduce the cost of the project, a 25 mm thick edged board is purchased. It is cut to the required size, the burrs are removed with a plane. After grinding using sandpaper, a smooth surface without defects is obtained.
	The blanks for the side walls are connected using wood glue. The ends are lubricated with it, after which the parts are pressed on a flat surface. For fixation, a vertical rib is installed on one side of the table.
	On the other hand, the building level is fixed in the right place (with clamps).
	You can put another blank on top to provide pressure from above and eliminate unevenness.
	The end walls and bottom of the box are glued together in the same way. If irregularities are found on the large surfaces formed, they are removed using a grinding machine.
	After checking the size match and eliminating minor defects, the box is assembled. The parts are secured with glue and self-tapping screws.
	The accuracy of the angles is checked.
	Next you will need wooden planks (10 x 10 mm).
	They are used to make supports for frames. These elements are fixed using glue and nails. It should be noted that the author of the project specifically uses simple solutions. With the help of such instructions, you can quickly understand how to make a hive yourself without chamfering and other complex operations.
	The check confirms the conformity of the dimensions of the parts.
	A 40 x 20 mm strip is used to create a frame on each side of the drawer.
	The tapholes are cut out in the side wall with an electric jigsaw (two at the bottom, one in the middle). During operation, they are opened as the bee colony grows. Attach the bottom.
	The internal dimensions (76 width x 46 depth x 32 cm height) are enough to install 20 frames.
	Install polystyrene foam (sheets 20 mm thick, density 25 kg per cubic meter).
	A clapboard is mounted on top.
	The multilayer construction is lightweight and has excellent insulating properties. This is better than using solid wood.
	To make the lid, the boards are cut into 100 mm lengths. A box is made from these blanks. Install a rail at the bottom and check that the dimensions match.
Read also: Facade thermal panels for exterior decoration of a house: characteristics and installation	The roof surface is created from lining.
	Ventilation holes are cut out in the lid. Fixed with galvanized sheet metal for weather protection.
	A stacked ceiling is made from boards.
	At the final stage, the landing board is installed and the external surfaces are painted.
	A special latch ensures the lid is secured during transportation.
	A flexible band is used to secure the top in the raised position.

Video: how to make high-quality frames for hives

The design, dimensions and other parameters of these products are determined not only by the size of the free space. In some cases, a supporting frame of strings is not needed at all.

In this video, making a beehive frame with your own hands from wooden blanks is described in detail:

This material is easy to process and does not contain irritating or dangerous chemical compounds. But products made from it are damaged under the influence of temperature and humidity. They weigh a lot.

To eliminate the noted negative factors, frames made of plastic are used

Such products cannot be made at home. Therefore, when choosing this option, you will have to study the assortment of stores.

Related article:

DIY glass aquarium. The necessary information with useful practical tips about lighting, aeration, and other decorative and functional additions is collected in this article.

What you need to build a hive with your own hands according to the drawings

The main thing that is necessary for such work is to choose the material. Bees are quite finicky insects and if they don’t like the house, they can simply fly away to look for a new home.

It is also important to maintain the necessary microclimate in the house. That is why, when reading and analyzing drawings for a beehive with your own hands, think about insulation. After all, they should not be too hot or cold. It is worth paying close attention to the ventilation system. Do not forget that in different types of houses it is performed in its own way.

An interesting device - it pumps honey directly from the hive.

The building can be insulated with either regular polystyrene foam or penoplex (polyurethane foam). These materials are non-toxic and odorless.

Note! Under no circumstances should you insulate the hive from the inside. Otherwise, you will end up with a situation in which it will simply be impossible to remove the frames because of the wax.

If possible, try to avoid gluing. As a last resort, you need to choose a composition that is odorless. You can use hot melt glue - it is neutral, non-toxic and bees do not react to it.

These are very regular bees. And they make very proper honey.

The choice of wood is very important. The best option may be aspen or linden. Coniferous species are also suitable, but in this case you need to be prepared for the fact that in the first year the honey will have a slight but noticeable smell of resin.

How to build a hive with your own hands: a review of designs

There are more than a dozen types of bee houses. They differ in design and functionality. The choice of scheme determines the ease of maintenance and partly the volume of the harvest.

The main difference between the structures is whether they are collapsible or not. Non-dismountable hives are almost never used due to difficulties in care.

The most common option is a frame design with 24 frames.

Frame houses are divided according to the structure of the body:

Horizontal. Consist of 1 body, expanding to the sides. They are more convenient to care for, but larger and heavier.
Vertical. They consist of several buildings located one above the other. More compact, easy to maintain and carry.

Let's look at the features of different types of structures.

Dadan

It is not used on an industrial scale; it is common among amateur beekeepers and those who keep up to several dozen colonies. The body is collapsible, vertically elongated (takes up less space, easier to carry), consists of 1 body, honey is collected in 1 compartment. Accommodates 1 large bee family (in winter, 2 families can be combined in 1 building, separated by partitions).

This is done for 10-12 frames (more is possible). The bottom can be removable or non-removable.

Dimensions:

Nest frame: 435x300 mm.
Magazine: 435x145 mm.
Distance from the case wall to the side frame strip: 7 mm.
Underframe space: 25 mm.
Upper tap hole size: 125x10 mm.
LWH: 450x445x325 mm.

Glue and nails are used to connect the boards. The roof is made of boards 15 mm thick, covered with water-repellent material. Several holes are drilled in the roof using a 15 mm drill (for ventilation).

Varre

The case is made in the form of a box with 8 rulers (the distance between them is 12 mm). The liner is 5 mm smaller than the body; the gap is made for ease of maintenance (the beekeeper slides the liner under it).

The roof is made with ventilation (a cutout covered with mesh). In cold or rainy weather, the cutout is covered with a lid. The cover should be 2 mm larger than the body on all sides to cover the joints.

Ruta

Structurally similar to Dadan's hive. It differs in the number of cases (can be up to 6), each case has 10 frames (standard size: 435x230 mm). The housings are located vertically one above the other. The bottom is removable.

Content principle:

After the end of winter, another housing filled with frames with foundation is placed above the compartment with the bees.
The bees and the queen move from the lower compartment to the free upper one.
The beekeeper swaps the boxes, and between them puts another box with empty honeycombs.
Bees fill empty housings from top to bottom. As the next building is filled, the procedure is repeated.
When the first housing is completely filled, the bees and the queen are separated by a net. In such conditions, the bees will be focused on collecting honey, and the queen will be focused on laying offspring.

Advantages:

Possibility of height adjustment.
It is easy to pump out honey because the honeycombs are always at the top. Due to the pattern of use (frequent rearrangement of housings), it is suitable for southern regions, without severe and prolonged frosts.

Alpine

Multi-body (3 or more bodies) hive with 1 entrance, without a dividing grid and ventilation holes. At the bottom of the entrance, fresh air enters, is heated by the bees, and rises upward. It is displaced by carbon dioxide (which is released by bees), and falls down, exiting through the hole in the entrance.

A feeder is used as a ceiling. It lies on the hive constantly, serving as an air gap. The roof should have an overhang on all sides, and the rails under it should create a square side.

The stand is made from a building block. It is not part of the hive. An alpine hive should not stand on the ground.

Dimensions:

Thickness of the insulated cover, walls and bottom: 30 mm.
Slot tray height: 7 mm.
Width of slot tray: 300 mm.
Mounting angle of the landing board: 45º.
Height: up to 1.5-2 m.

Among the disadvantages of the design:

it will be inconvenient to move bees from other hives to the Alpine hive (it’s easier to populate a colony from scratch);
Not every honey extractor will be able to work with an Alpine hive.

Ukrainian lounger

Structurally, the hive resembles a chest with a removable bottom. The nests are not built up, but horizontally, on the sides. The entrance slots and holes are located along the front wall. There are folds along the top of the inner wall. Frames are attached to the upper fold, and ceiling boards are attached to the lower fold.

It is more convenient to clean nests in the spring than with a vertical arrangement. For the winter, 2 bee families can be located in the house, the rest of the time - 1.

Common characteristics:

Number of frames: 20.
Size: 300x435 mm.

The assembly looks like this step by step:

The wood chosen is: hardwood boards with a moisture content of up to 15%, but not too dry and flaking.
The frame is assembled from wide boards. Recommended width for walls: 25 mm. The length depends on the number of frames (for example: for 20 frames - 580 mm). The connection between the boards is made with nails, tongue or tongue.
A removable bottom is made that protrudes beyond the front wall.
The roof is made light (so as not to create additional load on the walls and is easy to open). You can put it on hinges.

Cassette (Pioneer)

In hives of this design, bees do not swarm, but they get sick less.

Structurally, it resembles a large chest of drawers with small drawers, each of which is a separate house, made in the form of a drawer. The general body has runners and bars mounted on the side walls. “Cassettes” run along the runners: casings. There is a gap of 10 mm between them, this is enough for the bodies to move freely without clinging to each other.

The design is more complex to manufacture, requires more material, but is convenient to transport, and allows you to keep several families in one hive. Large cassette houses can be placed on a trailer.

The common roof is made pitched, with ventilation holes. Anti-tick nets are placed on top and bottom. The walls of the main body (in which the cassettes are installed) are made 35 mm thick (or from 2 layers of moisture-resistant plywood and insulation between them).

Separate tap holes are made on each retractable body. The central holes have a diameter of 25-30 mm, the slot holes - 200x100 mm.

Difficulties that may arise when building a house for bees

The main task in such work is the exact observance of all specified dimensions. And this is not just a whim of the one who invented this or that hive. This is a necessity that has been re-tested for years. Many people think that they can design and build a house for bees themselves according to their own invented dimensions, and then receive no less honey than others. Will not work! It has already been said that if the distance between the frames is smaller, the bees will accumulate propolis between them and they will become inoperative. But what happens if you make the distance larger?

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In this case, the bee decides that it is necessary to build intermediate honeycombs and as a result, the first option is obtained - everything sticks together tightly. As for height, there are practically no restrictions here. But you should remember that you will have to move the hives, which becomes problematic if they are heavy.

Beethorn honey is the healthiest, but it is difficult to get - the wild bee is not accustomed to humans.

Migratory, alien bees also pose a rather big problem. Often, various diseases come with them, and it is with such incidents that the degeneration of the breed begins. If we again take the Burzyan bee as an example, its degeneration in Bashkortostan has already become noticeable. And the reason for this is the frequent arrival of beekeepers from neighboring regions.

And of course, don’t forget about feeding insects with sugar syrup during wintering. After all, the bulk of the honey that they prepared for the cold period is taken away from them. It’s worth learning more about all this before you make a hive yourself and place the first guests there.

If you think about it, the process of making a hive with your own hands is a complex matter, but quite interesting and exciting.

Brief overview of materials that can be used

You can make a hive from several materials:

Plywood. It is afraid of moisture, which is why it needs painting and careful care. The material itself is easy to process, durable and environmentally friendly.
Styrofoam. The most economical and easiest (to assemble) option. The finished house will be light in weight even with honey-filled frames. The main disadvantage is fragility. It also does not tolerate sunlight well, under the influence of which it can crumble. To prevent this, the outer sides are painted.
Polyurethane. Does not rot, does not decompose, does not allow moisture to pass through, and does not attract rodents.
Tree. An environmentally friendly material, which is good because the wooden house for bees is close to natural conditions. The best species: cedar, linden or aspen. The cheaper option is spruce, pine or fir.

Frames for a bee house: the nuances of their manufacture

Frames are the foundation of the hive. And a lot depends on the quality and their correct execution.

Note! Whatever material the bee house is built from, the frames should always be made of good wood - linden, aspen or apple tree. This will ensure the best taste of honey. The wire staple must be made of stainless wire if it is not made of wood.

The wood for frames must be perfect.

Everyone knows that honey is not only a sweet treat, but also an excellent medicine. And the quality of the final product depends on what the hives will be like and how they will be equipped. This means that all responsibility for this lies on the shoulders of the beekeeper. Don't forget about this. Well, what type of bee house to choose is up to you.

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If anyone has any questions, we will be happy to answer them in the discussion, and perhaps even argue. After all, as you know, truth is born in a dispute. If you find any inaccuracy in the information we have provided, we will be grateful if you point it out.

Types of hives and their classification

Hives are usually made of soft wood - spruce, willow, poplar, aspen, linden. They can be collapsible or non-dismountable - bulky and inconvenient to use. Based on their design, hives are also divided into horizontal and vertical.

Horizontal

The design allows you to place up to 14 frames in the hive. If necessary, you can install several additional modules with foundations. The modules are fenced off with bars separating the bee colonies.

Pros:

convenient to care for bees;
ease of maintenance;
no need to lift magazines for inspection.

Minuses:

very heavy weight;
difficulty of transportation;
To store spare honeycombs, you need special cabinets (this is not necessary in vertical hives, since they have a spare body).

Vertical

The design assumes the possibility of increasing the volume of the hive in the vertical plane by installing additional buildings on top of each other. A vertical hive looks like a real hollow. The bees have the impression that they are in their natural environment.

Pros:

the ability to extract honey without opening the nest;
ease of maintenance and operation;
bees tolerate wintering well;
there is no dampness;
mold and harmful bacteria do not appear;
bee colonies reproduce well - beekeepers do not have to make additional efforts;
the structure of the hive allows the beekeeper to prevent swarming;
Convenient to transport in a trailer or car body.

Minuses:

a large food supply is required;
impressive dimensions and weight - very difficult to carry;
the presence of flanges complicates maintenance and manufacturing;
It is impossible to install additional entrances - they cause drafts, as a result of which the microclimate in the hive is disturbed.

When operating vertical hives, you have to turn the bottom several times during the season to change the size of the vest. The procedure is difficult to perform without an assistant.