Do-it-yourself TISE pile foundation. Step-by-step analysis of errors

The construction of any building begins with excavation work and foundation construction. The result of the construction of the facility and the reliability of its operation will depend on the chosen design solution, material, and method of installation of the base. At the same time, the cost of the building element and environmental safety are taken into account. Satisfying the listed requirements is possible during the construction of the TISE foundation. This type belongs to the group of pile or pile-grillage foundations.

TISE piles

The main disadvantage of the classic pile foundation is that with severe heaving, the support can simply be pushed out. But since the idea itself is very attractive - it can be built quickly with a minimum of costs - on difficult soils they began to make a base at the bottom of the pile - a rectangular reinforced plate. But with this option, the volume of land work immediately increased significantly: for each pile it is necessary to dig a pit larger than the planned base. But the building stands normally even on soils with severe frost heaving.


The pile foundation using TISE technology has a dome-shaped thickening at the base of each support

Under piles made using TISE technology create a similar thickening. But there is no need to dig pits. This extension is formed using a special knife, which is attached to a proprietary drill. This knife forms the extended dome. Further, the entire technology almost exactly repeats the process of constructing a pile or pile-grillage foundation.

Previously, expansions were also practiced, but they tried to do them using micro-explosions or by picking with a blade on a long pole. The main innovation in TISE technology is a drill with an opening adjustable blade. With its help, it is much easier to expand the sole.


How to work with a TISE drill

Advantages and disadvantages

TISE foundations are quickly gaining popularity: with minimal additional costs, a more reliable foundation is obtained. So, its advantages:

  • increased resistance to heaving forces;
  • the load from the house is transferred to a larger area, which reduces the possibility of uneven subsidence;
  • low cost with good characteristics;
  • can be designed for houses made of different materials, up to 3 floors in height;
  • small amount of land work.


    The procedure for making a TISE pile

If a pile or pile-grillage foundation is recommended for your house, it makes sense to make TISE piles. With a small increase in workload, you get a significant increase in reliability. After all, designers do not like pile foundations because it is impossible to find out what kind of soil is under each support. Therefore, it is impossible to predict how reliable and stable the foundation will be. And the TISE foundation has a wider support, which reduces risks. As before, nothing can be predicted, but a large load distribution area is always good.

However, there are also disadvantages. The main thing: the heel of a TISE pile cannot be well reinforced. You can lower the reinforcement cage to the very bottom, but expansion cannot be reinforced. Therefore, there remains the possibility that this thickening will collapse.


TISE piles are the basis of the TISE pile-grillage foundation

There is one more drawback, but this is from the practice of using a drill: it is not easy for them to work. The design itself is interesting. This is not a blade wrapped around a rod, but some kind of container with a composite bottom. Four blades set at an angle are welded on the plates that form the bottom. When you spin the drill, they loosen the soil. Since the bottom is not solid, the soil gets into the body, from where it needs to be removed.

The order of work is as follows: rotate the drill several times around its axis, take it out, and shake out the soil. They lowered it into the hole again, turned it several times, etc. The technology is not complicated, but the work is tedious. The device itself weighs 7-9 kg, plus soil. It needs to be raised and lowered frequently. Overall, it's tiring. Plus, no mechanisms are needed. The downside is that the work is not easy physically. Especially if the soil is rocky or dense clay.

Ventilation

So, “breathing” walls are built with internal cavities-wells and horizontal technological holes with a diameter of 1 cm, which were formed during stripping. It would be a sin not to take advantage of this.

The creators of the TISE technology provided a ventilation system and called it a “stone hut”. A displacement ventilation system is formed “by itself” during the construction process; you just need to provide ventilation ducts in the exterior and interior of the house. Supply ventilation is provided by a system of wells, ventilation ducts and technological openings in the external walls of the house. Exhaust ventilation is organized using traditional methods. The best option is to install exhaust ventilation windows in each room, located under the ceiling opposite the main supply ventilation flow and equipped with adjustable blinds. Now the flow of fresh air can be controlled!

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Where can I use it?

There are no restrictions on the types and materials of buildings: you can make a TISE foundation for wooden, frame, brick and block buildings. Number of storeys - up to three.

The restrictions on soils are the same as when using pile foundations: it is necessary that the piles transfer the load to the soil with normal bearing capacity. To decide whether it is possible or not to use TISE, a geological study of the site in the place where construction is planned is necessary.


What does a TISE pile consist of?

Since the base of the pile is expanded and the resistance to buoyancy forces is greater, this technology can be used on heaving soils. But at the same time you need to consider: there is no point in placing piles closer than 1.5 meters. If placed closer, one extension of the sole will overlap the other. On the other hand, you can’t make a pile larger than 30 cm in diameter either - there is no such drill. If the load-bearing area with such parameters is not enough, you need to use a different type of foundation.

Working mixture

A cement-sand mortar with a small amount of water (the so-called hard sand-cement mixture) is used as a working mixture for molding wall blocks. The mixture is prepared in portions designed to produce 10 - 12 blocks (0.8 -1 square meter of wall), by hand kneading. The properties of the rigid sand-cement mixture are strength and frost resistance, high vapor permeability. Such a wall “breathes,” which made it possible to add the letter “E” to the name of the technology - ecology.

TISE technology. The principle of using adjustable formwork

For grade 400 cement, the volume ratio of sand: cement: water is 3:1:0.5; for cement grade 500 - 4:1:0.5. Material consumption per 1 sq. meter of wall is: with a wall thickness of 25 cm - 50 kg of cement (grade 400) and 0.12 cubic meters of sand, with a wall thickness of 38 cm - 75 kg of cement and 0.18 cubic meters of sand.

Laying the mixture Consolidation of the mixture Alignment

Reviews of the branded drill

The main questions for developers are related to how realistic it is to drill wells manually using a proprietary drill. Looking at the video, it seems that this task is not easy. But here are some reviews.

The soil on my site is different: some are loam, some are dense clay, and such that you can only chop them with an axe. At first I thought about renting a motor drill, but I decided to try it straight away with a drill. And nothing, not very hard. As a result, I decided that a motor drill would not speed up the process much, so I made all 40 pieces by hand. During the day, 5-6 2-meter wells were produced. They drilled easily, but with expansion it was difficult: I already had dense soil there, and it was difficult to turn with the blade open.

Oleg, Kharkov

I modified the TISE drill I bought: I welded additional teeth, instead of a rope that opens the blade, I adapted a rod - now you can put pressure on it, and not just pull. And most importantly, I lengthened the handle so that two people could turn it. While they were drilling the extensions, they twisted it 90°, but the work became much easier. In general, I'm pleased.

Nikolay, Krasnoyarsk

Molding of wall blocks

The prepared rigid mixture is placed in a mold with inserts installed - void formers and compacted with a manual tamper. Excess mixture is removed with a scraper under the upper level of the liners. Stripping is carried out immediately after compaction. Small projections at the bottom of the mold span the bottom row of blocks, preventing movement. However, after 4-5 rows it is still better to check the vertical with a plumb line and lay down the reinforcing mesh.

Reinforcement with flexible connections with a diameter of 6 mm from basalt fibers; they are laid in each wall block when it is formed.

The complete molding cycle of one block takes 5 - 7 minutes. Thus, with one formwork, up to 80-100 blocks can be formed per day. Of course, it’s more convenient to work with two or three people: one kneads, the other brings the mixture, the third forms the blocks, and the work goes smoothly. If the wall is rubbed down at the end of the working day, it will not require plastering: you can immediately putty and paint. And this is a significant saving of labor and money.

Two walls and flexible connections form a rigid and stable structure Penoizol provides insulation like 3 meters of brickwork

Calculation of the TISE foundation

The calculation method is no different from the calculation in the general case. The load from the house is calculated and then compared with the total load-bearing capacity of the planned number and diameter of piles.

First, place the piles on the house plan. They must be in the corners and at the junctions of the walls. If the distance between the piles is more than 3 meters, intermediate ones are placed between them. So you place all the supports on the plan, adhering to the rule:

  • minimum distance - 1.5 meters;
  • maximum 3 m.

Then calculate the load from the house. To do this, you first need to calculate the weight of the house (all building materials + furniture, plumbing, heavy household appliances).


Average loads from different types of house components

Speaking on average, for buildings made of brick or shell rock, 2400 kg can be taken for each square of area, for light building blocks (foam concrete, aerated concrete, etc.) - 2000 kg, for wood and frames - 1800 kg. These average standards can be used as a preliminary guide. If you decide to take everything seriously, you will need to follow the entire methodology: counting materials of walls, ceilings, roofing, finishing, etc. Since the technologies and materials used may be different, the discrepancies can also be significant.

We multiply the resulting value by a correction factor - 1.3 or 1.4. This is a safety margin. The resulting figure is the load that will need to be transferred through the piles.

Now, using the table, you select what diameter the pile should have so that it can transfer the required weight.


Load-bearing capacity of piles of different diameters in different soils

If the planned number of columns with an expansion of the selected diameter can transfer the required load, you do not need to redo anything. If the transferred mass is too small, it is necessary to either increase the number of piles or make a “heel” of a larger diameter.

TISE foundation: work order

The TISE technique itself has some recommendations:

  1. The piles should be buried approximately 20 cm below the freezing level for the region.
  2. To reinforce the pile, four rods of ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm are used. The rods should be placed no closer than 4 cm from the edge.
  3. If the slope of the site is more than 10%, the release of the reinforcement must be connected to the grillage.
  4. Use either a high grillage - raised 150 mm above the ground, or make a pile-strip foundation with a shallowly buried strip. The second option is used for heavy buildings, the weight of which cannot be transferred through piles; then a tape is made that increases the transfer area.


    Scheme of reinforcement of a pile-grillage foundation with a reinforced concrete grillage (pile-strip)

  5. You should not make sand bedding at the bottom of the well: it will not have normal density and will not work.
  6. To ensure reliable support, use concrete vibrators. Manual vibration using a rebar is ineffective. If your farm does not have such a device, rent it while the foundation is being poured: the strength increases significantly.
  7. The formwork for the pile is made from roofing felt, roofing felt or glassine rolled into a tube. It is better that it has several layers (2-3). There is no need to fasten them with anything: they twisted them slightly smaller than the diameter and inserted them. The height of this formwork is 15 cm above the ground level, regardless of whether there is a slope on the site or not. It is advisable to sprinkle this protruding piece with sand or soil and compact it around it. This will prevent the roofing paper from falling apart when pouring concrete.

TISE foundation is a subtype of pile-grillage foundation. And the technology for its production is no different. The whole difference is in the drilling process. No others. The work procedure and technology for manufacturing a pile-rosvet foundation are described here. And in this article we’ll better give some practical advice.

Difficulties during drilling

If the soil is very loose - fine sand - the walls of the well may crumble. To prevent this from happening, add water. The sand will compact and hold its shape. Water will also help if the soil is very dry and dense. After drilling a few tens of centimeters, fill the well with water. It will soften the soil, it can be chopped with a shovel or other device, and then removed with a drill.


Drilling wells for the TISE foundation with your own hands is not easy, but it is possible even alone

Difficulties are created by the powerful roots of trees and bushes. They need to be chopped. To do this, the ax handle is welded (attached) to the handle. By sharply lowering it into the hole, the roots are crushed.

How to create an extension

After reaching the design depth of the well, a plow is attached to the drill. It can be fixed in two positions: to form a heel of 50 or 60 cm. The plow is tied to a rope.


This is a plow that forms a dome-shaped extension

You lower the drill down, the rope is taut, the plow is pressed. The rope is released, and he falls down under his own weight. You start to rotate (it’s hard - the cutting surface is large), the blade cuts the soil, forming a thickening.

You can rotate both clockwise and counterclockwise. If clockwise, then try not to press down: there is no need to go deeper. When rotating counterclockwise, only the soil is cut without deepening, but another problem arises: the soil is poured under the drill, pushing it upward.

The optimal order of work is as follows: scroll counterclockwise several times. As soon as you feel that the blade has rested against the arch, make a few turns clockwise, collecting cut soil into the drill body. Take out the drill and pour out the soil. Repeat several times until an extension is formed (the soil stops building up).

On hard soils, working with the plow open can be problematic. Then you can create the expansion in stages. First set the plow to the smallest distance, then increase it to the desired size.

Filling with concrete

If the groundwater level is low, no problems arise: fill it in and treat it with a vibrator. All.

If the groundwater level is high, the heel can be filled immediately after it has been formed. You will only need to insert the reinforcement. Then you knit it before drilling begins. Filling the main part of the well can be left “for later”.


Having placed the reinforcement and formwork, they begin to pour concrete

If there is a lot of water and it comes quickly, you will need a large bag made of thick film with a hole at the bottom. You insert it into the well and pour concrete. Because it is denser, it displaces water. Having filled the heel, pull out the bag. It will be useful for the next piles.

The video below demonstrates the technology of building a foundation with TISE piles and a high grillage.

Concrete structure care

Caring for a concrete structure is necessary to minimize plastic shrinkage of the material, provide protection against premature drying and destruction of structural bonds due to sudden changes in temperature.

To do this, create a moistened compress of sawdust on the surface of the concrete solution and cover it with a film on top . Once every three days, the protective layer is watered with water from a watering can (drip irrigation) and re-covered with polyethylene.

Winter maintenance of concrete involves forced heating using mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Sometimes, for this purpose, antifreeze modifiers are added to the solution when mixing.

After the concrete has gained the necessary strength, construction of the grillage begins using standard technology for a pile foundation with reinforced concrete strip.

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